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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / 4x4 Cars / April 2005

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Diesel fuel shut off valve

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HotRod - 18 Apr 2005 20:32 GMT
Can anyone tell me where to find a "Canadian" location to pickup a solenoid
shutoff valve for a diesel truck?
Peter D. Hipson - 18 Apr 2005 23:22 GMT
>Can anyone tell me where to find a "Canadian" location to pickup a solenoid
>shutoff valve for a diesel truck?

Sure: a chevy dealer, a GMC dealer, a Ford dealer, a Chrysler dealer,
an IH dealer, a Mack dealer, a White dealer, an Isuzu dealer, any good
parts store...

Do you think these things are totally generic? What is it for?
HotRod - 19 Apr 2005 14:14 GMT
It's for a Ford E350, I want to add another tank and want to be able to
switch between the two.
Peter D. Hipson - 19 Apr 2005 18:15 GMT
You need a tank transfer valve, not a shutoff valve. Ford makes one
that is good, or try an autoparts store. Find out how they work before
trying to hook it up (IOW, don't guess at the wiring...)

>It's for a Ford E350, I want to add another tank and want to be able to
>switch between the two.
HotRod - 19 Apr 2005 18:37 GMT
Can anyone in this newsgroup explain how to switch between two tanks? and
what I'll need? AND YES I want to do this myself just for "sh!t$ and
giggles"
Peter D. Hipson - 19 Apr 2005 22:19 GMT
>Can anyone in this newsgroup explain how to switch between two tanks? and
>what I'll need? AND YES I want to do this myself just for "sh!t$ and
>giggles"

OK, from the factory. I'll use Ford as an example.

There are two tanks. Each has a fuel sender, and  a pickup. Each tank
may also have a pump (especially if gas).

Both tanks go to a transfer valve assembly (mounted on frame rail
usually). This valve switches between the two tanks. Some valves are
reverse polarity switching (Fords IIRC), others have seperate circuits
for each tank.

The dash switch switches the tank transfer valve, and the fuel sender
to the gauge.

I suspect on the newest vehicles the TCM/ECM also gets involved.

Were I doing this, I'd see if I could find a *clean* (not rusted to
hell and back) doaner vehicle (similar model to what I had) with dual
tank setup. I'd then grab the plumbing (valve) and as much of the
electtrical as I could.

New from a dealer these valves usually cost about $120 (US $) or so.

You *could* do it totally by yourself, with a pair of 12V solenoid
valves, one for each tank. Energize the valve for the tank you want to
use. Down side, is that you have to use quality parts so they hold up.
You must also take into consideration that most engines circulate fuel
back to the tank and that fuel must go to the tank it came from!
That's another set of valves.

If this doesn't give yuo enough information, I'd suggest going to a
good library and seeing if they have any auto-repair manuals. Look up
a dual tank setup and that should give you both the electrical side,
and the plumbing side.

If you are totally nuts (and don't ask me to ride in your truck!) you
could do it with two manual valves mounted outside the trans tunnel
with the handles sticking up into the interior. Don't put the valves
or fuel lines into the cab! This would be the cheapest way, but would
require you do the management of tanks yourself.
web1000@shaw.ca - 19 Apr 2005 22:49 GMT
Do you have a source for 12V solenoids? I need them for air ..
different application but cant find anything except the 24V PLC stuff

Matt
Peter D. Hipson - 20 Apr 2005 02:17 GMT
Any place that sells 24V should have 12 as well. Try Granger.

>Do you have a source for 12V solenoids? I need them for air ..
>different application but cant find anything except the 24V PLC stuff
>
>Matt
web1000@shaw.ca - 20 Apr 2005 04:55 GMT
cool, thanks :)
HotRod - 20 Apr 2005 16:47 GMT
After doing some research it looks like I can use a six way solenoid valve
to transfer the fuel tank and return line all at once. Now I just need to
figure out a nice way to kill the power to one fuel pump and start the other
one.
Peter D. Hipson - 21 Apr 2005 00:25 GMT
I still recommend using factory type parts if you can. The factory
valve includes contacts to do the fuel gauge switch. The switch to the
factory valve handles the management of the two fuel pumps. If you use
a six way solenoid valve make sure it is continous duty, and rated to
handle fuel (most are, but check).

>After doing some research it looks like I can use a six way solenoid valve
>to transfer the fuel tank and return line all at once. Now I just need to
>figure out a nice way to kill the power to one fuel pump and start the other
>one.
 
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