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Car Forum / Acura Cars / October 2004NSX Clutch
I think my 1997 NSX may need a new clutch soon. It has 31,000 miles. Any one out there have advice? I found prices on the Internet that are discounted about 25% from a Florida Acura dealer. What have others paid for a clutch replacement? I heard that NSX flywheels cannot be resurfaced; they must be replaced. Here's the prices I found: Part Number Image Description Year Model List Price Our Price Click to Buy 21000-PR8-020 CASE, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 1090.00 872.00 21350-PR7-010 COVER, CLUTCH CASE 1997 NSX 66.40 53.12 22500-PR9-010 CLUTCH ASSY., LOW 1997 NSX 570.72 456.58 22511-PR9-013 GUIDE, LOW CLUTCH 1997 NSX 201.03 160.82 22520-PR9-000 PISTON, LOW CLUTCH 1997 NSX 96.18 76.94 22537-PR9-003 SPRING, CLUTCH DISK 1997 NSX 16.57 13.26 22537-PX4-003 SPRING, CLUTCH DISK 1997 NSX 13.15 10.52 22540-PR9-000 PISTON, THIRD CLUTCH 1997 NSX 110.02 88.02 22543-PX4-003 PLATE, LOW CLUTCH 1997 NSX 14.95 11.96 22544-PR9-013 DISK, SECOND CLUTCH 1997 NSX 26.33 21.06 22545-PX4-003 DISK, SECOND CLUTCH 1997 NSX 24.88 19.90 22545-PX4-A01 DISK, SECOND CLUTCH 1997 NSX 18.37 14.70 22545-PX4-A03 DISK, SECOND CLUTCH 1997 NSX 18.37 14.70 22570-PR9-000 PISTON, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 96.18 76.94 Qty: 22600-PR9-000 CLUTCH ASSY., SECOND 1997 NSX 570.72 456.58 22611-PR9-003 GUIDE, SECOND CLUTCH 1997 NSX 201.03 160.82 22650-PR9-010 CLUTCH ASSY., THIRD 1997 NSX 570.72 456.58 22651-PR9-013 GUIDE, THIRD CLUTCH 1997 NSX 201.03 160.82 22655-PR9-003 GUIDE, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 260.83 208.66 Qty: 22660-PR9-000 CLUTCH ASSY. 1997 NSX 570.72 456.58 Qty: 22670-PR9-010 CLUTCH ASSY. 1997 NSX 570.72 456.58 Qty: 22671-PR9-013 GUIDE, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 260.83 208.66 Qty: 22674-PR9-003 DISK, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 23.80 19.04 Qty: 22743-PG4-000 PIPE, THIRD CLUTCH 1997 NSX 12.05 9.64 22743-PR9-000 PIPE, THIRD CLUTCH 1997 NSX 9.17 7.34 Qty: 22744-PG4-000 PIPE, TOP CLUTCH 1997 NSX 10.52 8.42 Qty: 22745-PR9-000 PIPE, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 10.62 8.50 Qty: 22820-PR8-000 FORK, CLUTCH RELEASE 1997 NSX 121.10 96.88 23423-PR9-003 CLUTCH, ONE-WAY 1997 NSX 124.47 99.58 23426-PR9-000 HUB, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 123.75 99.00 Qty: 31204-PR7-J01 CLUTCH, OVERRUNNING 1997 NSX 357.02 285.62 Qty: 36760-SM4-003 SWITCH ASSY., CLUTCH 1997 NSX 24.02 19.22 38900-PR7-A03 CLUTCH SET 1997 NSX 247.53 198.02 Qty: 38900-PR7-A04 CLUTCH SET 1997 NSX 247.53 198.02 Qty: 41250-PR8-305 CLUTCH SET, LSD 1997 NSX 1594.10 1275.28 41251-PR8-000 PLATE, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 13.12 10.50 Qty: 41252-PR8-000 DISK, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 23.27 18.62 Qty: 46907-SL0-A00 SPRING, CLUTCH PEDAL 1997 NSX 7.67 6.14 46907-SL0-A01 SPRING, CLUTCH PEDAL 1997 NSX 7.67 6.14 46908-SL0-000 GROMMET, CLUTCH PIPE 1997 NSX 6.80 5.44 46910-SL0-A00 PEDAL, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 91.23 72.98 Qty: 46910-SL0-A01 PEDAL, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 91.48 73.18 Qty: 46912-S84-A00 PIN, CLUTCH PEDAL 1997 NSX 2.45 1.96 Qty: 46912-SD4-000 PIN, CLUTCH PEDAL 1997 NSX 4.07 3.26 Qty: 46920-SL0-A01 M/CYL ASSY., CLUTCH 1997 NSX 132.33 105.86 46936-SL0-A00 COLLAR, CLUTCH PEDAL 1997 NSX 5.08 4.06 46939-SL0-003 JOINT, CLUTCH PIPE 1997 NSX 26.43 21.14 46960-SL0-A03 PIPE A, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 9.00 7.20 Qty: 46961-SL0-A01 PIPE B, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 50.52 40.42 Qty: 46962-SL0-030 PIPE C, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 30.22 24.18 Qty: 46964-SL0-000 PIPE D, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 12.65 10.12 Qty: 46968-SL0-000 BRACKET, CLUTCH HOSE 1997 NSX 12.90 10.32 46970-SL0-A02 HOSE, CLUTCH 1997 NSX 64.05 51.24 Qty: 46971-SL0-A01 TUBE, CLUTCH FLUID 1997 NSX 8.15 6.52 Qty: 46972-SD4-003 TANK, CLUTCH FLUID 1997 NSX 10.12 8.10 46977-SL0-J01 CLIP, CLUTCH & BRAKE 1997 NSX 7.12 5.70 46990-SL0-A00 BRKT, CLUTCH PEDAL 1997 NSX 69.97 55.98 46993-SL0-003 DAMPER ASSY., CLUTCH 1997 NSX 101.17 80.94 22100-PR7-006 FLYWHEEL 1997 NSX 1999.97 1599.98 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, - Russ in SB > I think my 1997 NSX may need a new clutch soon. It has 31,000 miles. > Any one out there have advice? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I heard that NSX flywheels cannot be resurfaced; they must be > replaced. Does the flywheel NEED to be resurfaced?  SignatureJim Yanik jyanik-at-kua.net I am not even sure the clutch needs replacing, so I don't know about the flywheel. It's a $1700 item, so I hope it doesn't. I talked with the local Acura dealer nearest Santa Barbara and they reduced the parts cost by 15%, so the total cost with a flywheel replacement is about $3200 and only a mere $1400 or so for the clutch replacement only. It almost seems cheap. I tried another couple of tests to assess the clutch and I couldn't get it to slip at all. One was to put the emergency brake on and with the transmission in first or second, let the clutch out. The clutch didn't seem to slip at all, but the car started to move, so it overpowered the emergency brake in both gears. I take that as a good sign. Another test suggested was to depress the clutch while in motion and then re-engage the clutch while revving the engine. Again no sign of slippage at all. I also let the rpm go to idle and then quickly released the clutch and again no slipping noted. I am not sure what other tests there are, but would be interested in other possible tests. Russ in SB > > I think my 1997 NSX may need a new clutch soon. It has 31,000 miles. > > Any one out there have advice? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Does the flywheel NEED to be resurfaced? >I talked with the local Acura dealer nearest Santa Barbara and they reduced >the parts cost by 15%, so the total cost with a flywheel replacement is >about $3200 and only a mere $1400 or so for the clutch replacement only. It >almost seems cheap. That's about right for a stock clutch replacement. Or, for about $2,000 plus ~$800 labor, you can put in a Comptech PowerGrip clutch package, that includes flywheel & bolts, cover, plate and release bearing. It's a worthwhile upgrade. SignatureDan Drake But who do you truest to do it? At least the Acura dealer has one trained technician with specific knowledge of NSXs. I would be reluctant to trust my car to a regular garage. - Russ >>I talked with the local Acura dealer nearest Santa Barbara and they >>reduced [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > PowerGrip clutch package, that includes flywheel & bolts, cover, plate > and release bearing. It's a worthwhile upgrade. >But who do you truest to do it? At least the Acura dealer has one trained >technician with specific knowledge of NSXs. I would be reluctant to trust >my car to a regular garage. An Acura dealer did mine. That was their price. And in spite of what they tell you, don't assume that every Acura dealer actually has at least one competent trained NSX specialist. Each dealer may make that claim, but my experience leads me to question their definition of the phrase 'trained technician.' I have no problem letting a regular garage, that I know and trust, do this kind of work. SignatureDan Drake I've never seen an NSX flywheel.... but if the problem is the typical honda stepped flywheel... then it CAN be resurfaced... you just have to take it to someone who has the right tools. Unfortunately, in 1997 Acura changed from a single flywheel to a dual mass flywheel. It is actually two flywheels in one which raises the inertial mass on both the engine and transmission. The inner and outer flywheels are connected by torsion springs. It dampens changes in the engine speed before they are transmitted to the transmission. Because there are torsion springs between the flywheels, none are used in the clutch disc which lessens the inertia mass on the mainshaft. This reduction of the rotating reduces the load on the synchro rings. allowing the transmission to shift smoother. That was from the 1997 NSX service manual. That's why it can't be resurfaced. With respect to the NSX service technician at Gold Coast Acura, his name is Norman and has worked on my NSX previously. I talked with him and he is knowledgeable on NSXs. He changed another NSX clutch just recently. - Russ in SB > I've never seen an NSX flywheel.... but if the problem is the typical > honda stepped flywheel... then it CAN be resurfaced... you just have to > take it to someone who has the right tools. I'll buy that. Sounds like a pretty neat setup. So it is only the Six Speed cars that have this? > Unfortunately, in 1997 Acura changed from a single flywheel to a dual mass > flywheel. It is actually two flywheels in one which raises the inertial > mass on both the engine and transmission. The inner and outer flywheels > are connected by torsion springs. It dampens changes in the engine speed > before they are transmitted to the transmission. I only have the service manual for my '97, so I don't know whether newer NSXs have the same setup. - Russ > I'll buy that. Sounds like a pretty neat setup. So it is only the Six > Speed cars that have this? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> flywheels are connected by torsion springs. It dampens changes in the >> engine speed before they are transmitted to the transmission. That is very strange...I always had the understanding it was the other way around...that they switched _back_ to a single flywheel in the '97 because the double setup just didn't handle the transfer well (i.e. the "shudder" that happens on some of the older NSX clutches). I have a 95 and I have been debating replacing the clutch for a while now (car only has 38K miles). In fact, I was looking at the Comptech clutch (which is a single flywheel) because it is supposed to be much stronger... I'll have to go back and get out my manual and double check I guess. BTW, Dan, do you have the Comptech on your car? What has your experience with it been? Any insights are greatly appreciated. _Matthew > I only have the service manual for my '97, so I don't know whether newer > NSXs have the same setup. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >> flywheels are connected by torsion springs. It dampens changes in the > >> engine speed before they are transmitted to the transmission. >That is very strange...I always had the understanding it was the other way >around...that they switched _back_ to a single flywheel in the '97 because [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >BTW, Dan, do you have the Comptech on your car? What has your experience >with it been? Any insights are greatly appreciated. You're right, the pre-97 cars had the twin plate clutch, '97 and on have a conventional single plate. '97 was also the first year for the improved engine and six-speed gearbox. The Comptech Powergrip clutch combo is definitely worthwhile. Don't skimp on the new flywheel bolts! Its bite is firmer and more progressive than stock and I could never overpower it, like I could the stock item - though to be fair, the original appeared to have been abused. The clutch pedal is heavier than stock and would be a pain if you have a wispy little girlfriend who likes to drive your car. Honda clutches always seem to be lighter than other cars so it's noticeable. No worse than any other 'competition' clutch though. SignatureDan Drake Hey Dan, Thanks for the info (and for verifying my sanity). :) You mentioned getting new flywheel bolts...is that not included in the Comptech package? Are there any other items I should replace if I move to the Comptech clutch? (I will probably do my throwout bearing at the same time...at times, when releasing the clutch quickly in 1st, I hear something akin to a belt squeal that the dealer has said may be the throwout bearing) As for the heavy feel, that is fine with me (girlfriend hasn't driven it yet :))...would you say it is bad enough to not make it usable as a daily driver (not that mine is quite that...I drive it about 20% of the time though and sometimes in oh-so-fun DC traffic). Oh, and how long have you had yours in? Thanks again for the info! _Matthew > >That is very strange...I always had the understanding it was the other way > >around...that they switched _back_ to a single flywheel in the '97 because [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > clutches always seem to be lighter than other cars so it's noticeable. > No worse than any other 'competition' clutch though. >Hey Dan, >Thanks for the info (and for verifying my sanity). :) You mentioned getting >new flywheel bolts...is that not included in the Comptech package? I'm not sure if they're included now or not, I'm sure you can find out easily. They're not inexpensive, but you really should use new ones. >Are >there any other items I should replace if I move to the Comptech clutch? (I >will probably do my throwout bearing at the same time...at times, when >releasing the clutch quickly in 1st, I hear something akin to a belt squeal >that the dealer has said may be the throwout bearing) Comptech's own throwout bearing is included. I don't think the stock one would work. >As for the heavy >feel, that is fine with me (girlfriend hasn't driven it yet :))...would you >say it is bad enough to not make it usable as a daily driver (not that mine >is quite that...I drive it about 20% of the time though and sometimes in >oh-so-fun DC traffic). I'd say it's OK as a daily driver. It would only be a problem for someone really small and weak. >Oh, and how long have you had yours in? I had it in for about a year before I totaled the car. Its replacement still has the stock clutch that works fine, which is what kind of confirmed in my mind that the first car's original clutch was knackered. SignatureDan Drake Thanks Dan...I appreciate all of your responses. (Sorry to hear about the car though!) Now I just need to find $2K+ laying around... :) _Matthew > >Hey Dan, > >Thanks for the info (and for verifying my sanity). :) You mentioned getting [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > kind of confirmed in my mind that the first car's original clutch was > knackered. >Thanks Dan...I appreciate all of your responses. (Sorry to hear about the >car though!) <http://www.nsxprime.com/Gallery/crashburn/crashburn.htm#JH4NA2166VT000168> It's the black '97 at the top of the page. The wreck was sold on to be rebuilt as a racer somewhere in the midwest. SignatureDan Drake SORRY! Wow, that is a scary page to look at. What do you have now? Mine is a 95 T, Brooklands(sp?) Green....other than the clutch (and the fact that my new Yoka's pull a little to the right), I love it. _Matthew > >Thanks Dan...I appreciate all of your responses. (Sorry to hear about the > >car though!) <http://www.nsxprime.com/Gallery/crashburn/crashburn.htm#JH4NA2166VT000168> > It's the black '97 at the top of the page. The wreck was sold on to > be rebuilt as a racer somewhere in the midwest. >SORRY! Wow, that is a scary page to look at. What do you have now? Mine >is a 95 T, Brooklands(sp?) Green....other than the clutch (and the fact >that my new Yoka's pull a little to the right), I love it. The parent web site, www.nsxprime.com, is probably your best web information resource for pretty much all things NSX. Now, I have a '98 black/tan that's completely stock. If your car's pulling to one side, then something is out of adjustment. I wouldn't think it's the tires themselves. It might be worth getting an alignment check. SignatureDan Drake Thanks...I have seen that site before. Great reference. As for the alignment...I've had them look at it and it has been adjusted three times now! Still pulls a bit right but all of the numbers are within spec. One thing to note is that I had a tire blow (almost new, _rear_ left side) and this _seems_ to have started after I replaced that. The other thing that is annoying is that they can't seem to get my steering wheel to point "straight"...in other words, when I hold it so the "Acura" text is level, the car goes left (used to be right before the last adjustment...which I mentioned to them). Such a pain...I'm still trying to get in touch with the manager to take him out in the car to show him (he keeps saying his guys say it is "Dead on" center). I realize it is within the specs for alignment, but I think the wheel should "point" correctly! Thanks again! _Matthew > >SORRY! Wow, that is a scary page to look at. What do you have now? Mine > >is a 95 T, Brooklands(sp?) Green....other than the clutch (and the fact [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > adjustment. I wouldn't think it's the tires themselves. It might be > worth getting an alignment check. >Thanks... <alignment problems> I'm surprised that the dealer cannot resolve this. I'd be concerned at this point that there might be something in the car's history that's impinging on the current difficulty, if you get my drift. What do you know of the car's history? SignatureDan Drake Hey Dan, Well, it had 2 owners before me. A Dr. in DC and then an engineer who lived in PA. It went though a dealer full inspection before I purchased it and I have had it now for 3 years. I finally put all new rubber on it (I don't drive it anywhere near enough) about 6 months ago. Then, about 2 months ago I got a flat (bolt in the left rear). Bummer. :( Put it on the spare and left it in the garage. Brought the rim to the dealer and had them mount a new tire. Then, about a week later brought it in for an alignment and told them the steering wheel was a little off center (if I held it straight the car when right) and that it pulled right. So, they did the alignment. Car still both drifted right and when the steering wheel was straight, turned right (off center). Brought it back. Same thing. Drift was better but wheel off center. One last time, brought it back in. Started to drive it home...the drift is almost gone (good enough at this point) but now when the wheel is straight, it turns LEFT! So they obviously can adjust it but they seem unable to determine how to hold the wheel straight! ("Dead on" is what my guy keeps saying. It is "dead on" center). You can tell from driving it 5 min it is not. I don't get it. I have second and third guessed myself and tried the car on a number of different roads but it now definitely "points" left. It isn't a lot mind you, but it ticks me off given how clear I thought I was and the fact that I haven't had issues with it before. Maybe I need to take it to someone else. There is another dealer in the area (Radley). Maybe when I get my oil changed I'll ask them to look at it. I still want to go back and go for a ride with the manager and just see what he says. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks! _Matthew > >Thanks... > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > that's impinging on the current difficulty, if you get my drift. What > do you know of the car's history? >Maybe I need to take it to someone else. There is another dealer in the >area (Radley). Maybe when I get my oil changed I'll ask them to look at it. >I still want to go back and go for a ride with the manager and just see what >he says. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Without a shadow of a doubt, the most NSX-competent dealer on the east coast is Davis Acura, in Langhorne, PA. Dave Davis, the owner, is a also hardcore NSX enthusiast. People truck 'problem' NSXs to him from as far away as Florida and the mid-west. If you're using a dealer in Radley PA, then you're less than an hour away from him, you lucky beggar. http://www.davisacura.com SignatureDan Drake Oops...when I said Radley, I meant Radley Acura in northern VA. Bummer! Thanks for the info though. If you have any thoughts/ideas about the steering "offset", I would still love to hear them. Thanks (as always!) _Matthew > >Maybe I need to take it to someone else. There is another dealer in the > >area (Radley). Maybe when I get my oil changed I'll ask them to look at it. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > http://www.davisacura.com >Oops...when I said Radley, I meant Radley Acura in northern VA. Bummer! >Thanks for the info though. If you have any thoughts/ideas about the >steering "offset", I would still love to hear them. >Thanks (as always!) All I can offer you is the thought that a knowledgeable NSX dealer should either be able to fix this problem, or at least tell you exactly what the problem is. You don't seem to be asking for anything unreasonable and so I'd suggest you move on to another dealer if you current on can't solve it. Maybe search nsxprime.com for local dealer recommendations? If all else fails, take a day's vacation and drive up to Davis Acura in Langhorne, PA... SignatureDan Drake Cool. You are probably right. Well, if I get an answer to this, I'll post back. Thanks again for all the help. If you are ever down in the DC area, let me know and we'll take the cars out to the Blue Ridge for some nice curves... Thanks! _Matthew > >Oops...when I said Radley, I meant Radley Acura in northern VA. Bummer! > >Thanks for the info though. If you have any thoughts/ideas about the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > If all else fails, take a day's vacation and drive up to Davis Acura > in Langhorne, PA... Hey guys, Caught your conversation about alignment and the car pulling to one side. I had experienced the same on my '91 NSX after I got new OEM Yokos and an alignment. My car pulled to the right. The dealer with an NSX mechanic I've known for nearly 10 years said it was dead on. He even checked with Honda directly. Said my car should track straight. Since I had bought new rears and my fronts were half gone, he suggested that the newly corrected alignment may not go well with the current front tires. I thought it may be best to get new fronts too. Ordered new fronts and after installing them, still pulled to the right. Took it back to the dealer for a final precise alignment. Still didn't help. Then we swapped the front tires side to side as a test. The car still pulled. Put them back in the right corners of the car. Then we swapped the rears side to side and the pull was gone! Tracked straight as an arrow. I couldn't leave the tires on this way since they were spinning backwards and not on the right corners as Yokohma specifies. I returned the tires where I bought them and got replacements. The car now tracks straight as an arrow. Goes to show you that it can be the tires, even if they're brand new. Paul 91 Silver/Black Monterey, CA >Hey guys, > >Caught your conversation about alignment and the car pulling to one >side. I had experienced the same on my '91 NSX after I got new OEM >Yokos and an alignment. >Goes to show you that it can be the >tires, even if they're brand new. An interesting story. I guess if there's *definitely* nothing else wrong, then it *has* to be the tires. SignatureDan Drake >>Hey guys, >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > An interesting story. I guess if there's *definitely* nothing else > wrong, then it *has* to be the tires. Assuming there is nothing to stop you from doing it, you can do a trial swap of wheels left to right. If the pull switches sides, there you have it. It is worth noting front ends are never actually aligned "exactly in the center" - they are compensated for the crown of the road, so in the USA the car will drift left on a flat, level surface. In the UK, they will drift right. For many modern cars with struts in front, the camber and caster (which control the centering forces) are not adjustable. I don't know about the NSX. In those cases, pulling that isn't from the tires or brakes means something is worn out or bent. Mike
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