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Car Forum / Acura Cars / November 200487 Integra
Hi all, I own a first gen Integra that has 130k miles on it. There seem to be a problem with the fuel pump, which will take me $250 parts alone to fix. However, I'm hesistant to get it fixed due to several problems. First, the engine also needs a new water pump, as the old one is leaking quite badly. There are also fairly loud "tap-tap" noise coming from the engine head area. Furthurmore, The e-brake return spring on the rear cliapers are quite weak so the brake won't loosen up after I pull the ebrake. Otherwise the car is fairly well maintained. all oil changes are on schedule, fuel + air filter replaced on time; the rad, clutch, and drive axles are all fairly new. The engine + tranny is seldomly pushed hard. My question is, is it worth fixing up all the problem there is on such an old car? Given the car's age, problmes are going to be popping up intermittently. With the ever increasing cost going into fixing the car, I might as well buy another one. Your opinions would be appriciated. > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Your opinions would be appriciated. With a car that old it is best to get parts from a wreckers or junk yard which are often alot cheaper and sometimes give guarantees, I have the same car and I could get a fuel pump for $40 NZD thats about $30 US i think. The tapping noise from the engine will be tappets that need adjusting or possibly a broken spring? if the sound is loud then probably the latter. the tappets are supposed to be adjusted every 10,000k on these cars i believe > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Your opinions would be appriciated. My take on the matter is: if you are asking, you aren't in love with the car. I recommend trading it in on a new car. You aren't usually expected to say what problems you have with the car. Normally the dealership takes a look and decides for themselves. I think you will lose less value doing that than you would spend on repairs - it looks like you are facing more than $1000 for all the repairs. And dealerships view parts and labor at their costs, not at retail costs. Do not put off doing *something* about the water pump. It is driven by the timing belt, which not only makes it expensive to replace, it puts you at ever increasing risk of the timing belt failing. The damage from that would be heartbreaking. (I'm suspecting the timing belt is overdue for replacement anyway - it was due at 90K miles IIRC. The water pump and timing belt are normally changed at the same time because of the large amount of common labor between them.) This is a good time of year to find deals on new cars. The Christmas season lures buyers away and the salesmen still need to sell. Cut your best deal and have no regrets. Mike I do love the car. The problem is that I don't have a lot of equipment on my hand to fix the car with. For example, I'm more than willing to replace the waterpump myself, but I don't have the tool to suspend the engine. >> Hi all, >> [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > >Mike > I do love the car. The problem is that I don't have a lot of equipment > on my hand to fix the car with. For example, I'm more than willing to > replace the waterpump myself, but I don't have the tool to suspend the > engine. That "tool" is nothing more than a floor jack placed under the oil pan, with a rag to protect the oil pan's paint. When you undo the left-side engine mount, the jack supports the motor.  SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ That's it? I was always under the impression that in order to change the water pump, with the timing assembly, on needed to fully remove the engine. What you are telling me is great news. Care to explaining it a bit more in detail? On 29 Nov 2004 02:17:38 GMT, "TeGGer®" <teggeratistopdotcom@changetheobvious.invalid> wrote: >> I do love the car. The problem is that I don't have a lot of equipment >> on my hand to fix the car with. For example, I'm more than willing to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >with a rag to protect the oil pan's paint. When you undo the left-side >engine mount, the jack supports the motor. Based on a '90 Integra, you only need to remove the driver side engine mount in order to get past the housing to the timing belt/water pump area. The engine needs to be supported with the mount off, but only from below, on the oil pan, with a bottle jack or similar device; as the engine is still connected to the other mounts. After that, your next big hurdle will be getting the nut that holds the crankshaft pulley off. ~JM > That's it? I was always under the impression that in order to change > the water pump, with the timing assembly, on needed to fully remove [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >with a rag to protect the oil pan's paint. When you undo the left-side > >engine mount, the jack supports the motor. > Based on a '90 Integra, you only need to remove the driver side engine > mount in order to get past the housing to the timing belt/water pump [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > After that, your next big hurdle will be getting the nut that holds > the crankshaft pulley off. Quickest, safest, easiest thing to try first is an electric impact gun. You can use your normal sockets, and it costs approximately $10 per day from a rental place. Buzz the bolt in both directions for a while, back and forth, and it ought to eventually break free. If it doesn't, then you need this: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> Based on a '90 Integra, you only need to remove the driver side engine >> mount in order to get past the housing to the timing belt/water pump [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > can use your normal sockets, and it costs approximately $10 per day from a > rental place. **************************************************** I don't recommend regular sockets with an impact gun. I am told impact sockets (identifiable by being black and expensive!) are not as brittle. My impact gun instructions warns regular sockets can explode. If you do use a regular socket, *please* use goggles. If the socket explodes, you probably won't suffer any lasting injury IF YOUR EYES ARE PROTECTED. (Sorry for the shout, but the thought of metal shards hurtling toward naked eyes got to me.) An option is to buy a single 19mm impact socket - usually in the $5-$10 range purchased individually. Goggles are still a good idea (under $5). **************************************************** > Buzz the bolt in both directions for a while, back and forth, and it ought > to eventually break free. > > If it doesn't, then you need this: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt Thanks for the tips given for the timing belt/water pump. The second problem, concerning the car won't start when it's warm. I'm aware that during hot weather the cause could be the main relay. Although the problem matches the symptom, could the same problem happen when it's barely 35F outside? Thanks >Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > >Your opinions would be appriciated. Mo Zhang <mz62@cornell.edu> wrote in message > Thanks for the tips given for the timing belt/water pump. > > The second problem, concerning the car won't start when it's warm. I'm > aware that during hot weather the cause could be the main relay. > Although the problem matches the symptom, could the same problem > happen when it's barely 35F outside? Hi I think the main relay can have an intermittent problem regardless of weather. There are several really good posts regarding repair of that relay out there. Tegger has a really good faq you may want to check out: http://tegger.com/hondafaq/MainRelay.HTM One thing I've seen posted several times is that, when the car doesn't start, you bang on the left side panel under the dash - the contact may then actually 'make' again causing the car to start. This may help you diagnose the problem. Hope you find it soon. Remco
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