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Car Forum / Acura Cars / December 200495 Integra ABS light comes on
Ive got a 95 integra and my ABS light comes on when I restart the car after it has been running and will stay on. My ABS does not seem to be working at all. But on a cold start, everything is fine, the ABS light is off and the ABS work great. Any idea what may be the problem or things I can try to fix this ? I already added some brake fluid, but that doesn't seem to work. > Ive got a 95 integra and my ABS light comes on when I restart the car > after [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > I already added some brake fluid, but that doesn't seem to work. This is prolly one of the only things I dislike about my '92 Integra. It's ~ $1k (USD), just for the parts, to replace the ABS system. I ordered a used one from HAP Recyclers (Honda/Acura Recyclers), out of Cali., for ~ $150. I think the URL is: http://www.haprecyc.com/ , but not for sure. It's been ok so far, since I replaced it ~ 2 years ago. It could also be something more simple, because there's 3 parts to it (IIRC). Had to search long & hard for a garage to work on it, cuz no one wants to f' with ABS systems with the exception of the dealership (or 'stealership', as I've heard). Good luck to ya! On 12/3/04 4:45 PM, in article caf2a434.0412031445.2fcce019@posting.google.com, "Phil" <yawl@hotmail.com> wrote: > Ive got a 95 integra and my ABS light comes on when I restart the car > after [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > I already added some brake fluid, but that doesn't seem to work. Some disjointed comments: - When the ABS light is on, it means the ABS has shut down. Main brakes are unaffected and behave as if the car never had ABS. - It will blink out a trouble code if you short the SCS connector when the ABS light has been on. Possible causes include: unable to maintain pressure, low fluid (in the ABS reservoir), bad wheel sensor, etc. Get the code so you know what you are actually dealing with. - Do you hear it buzz for a few seconds every minute or so after you first start the car until the light comes on? It will try to pressurize several times and then give up and turn on the light if the unit is unable to maintain pressure. If it is doing this, its toast. - You are aware that this ABS system has its own separate fluid reservoir? Adding fluid to the main brake reservoir will not help. - this model ABS is very sensitive to old brake fluid. IF you have not been religiously changing both the main brake fluid and the ABS fluid every 30,000 miles or so, it is probably leaking around the seals and the unit is toast. - At this point in the life of the car, unless the problem is something simple like a dislodged wheel sensor, fixing the ABS will probably cost a significant percentage of the car's total worth. The main brakes are not affected by the ABS quitting. Most people just kiss it off and drive the car as if it didn't have the ABS option. > Some disjointed comments: > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > pressure, low fluid (in the ABS reservoir), bad wheel sensor, etc. Get the > code so you know what you are actually dealing with. The code I get is 1-8. > - Do you hear it buzz for a few seconds every minute or so after you first > start the car until the light comes on? It will try to pressurize several > times and then give up and turn on the light if the unit is unable to > maintain pressure. If it is doing this, its toast. Yes I hear the pump sometimes when I drive, but very rarely. It takes about 2 sec until it shutdown and the ABS will stay off. It never came ON while I was driving. > - You are aware that this ABS system has its own separate fluid reservoir? > Adding fluid to the main brake reservoir will not help. Yes, I added fluid in the ABS reservoir. > - this model ABS is very sensitive to old brake fluid. IF you have not been > religiously changing both the main brake fluid and the ABS fluid every > 30,000 miles or so, it is probably leaking around the seals and the unit is > toast. I don't think that the ABS fluid has been ever change. > - At this point in the life of the car, unless the problem is something > simple like a dislodged wheel sensor, fixing the ABS will probably cost a > significant percentage of the car's total worth. The main brakes are not > affected by the ABS quitting. Most people just kiss it off and drive the > car as if it didn't have the ABS option. What pisses me off is that ABS always work on cold start. But if I restart my car after few minutes, the ABS light stays on after the I hear the pump for 2 sec. If I let the engine cool down for an hour, the ABS will be ok after that. On 12/4/04 3:14 PM, in article caf2a434.0412041314.3e5dd3f0@posting.google.com, "Phil" <yawl@hotmail.com> wrote: >> Some disjointed comments: >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > The code I get is 1-8. 1-8 means "high pressure system". Probable causes are: Accumulator leaking gas; Changed relief valve set pressure; Rear outlet valve late to close; or Changed pressure switch set pressure. Sometimes this can be caused by debris preventing a good seal at one of the valves. Find a slippery road (gravel works) and engage the ABS a few times (when the light is off). Opening and closing the valves by engaging the ABS might clear the blockage. Otherwise, as you can see below, you are in for some expensive parts. Troubleshooting procedure (from the FSM): (with engine running, ABS light ON, and SCS connector shorted) - check the accumulator relief plug (bolt on top of cylindrical can). If plug is OK continue troubleshooting, if not good, replace the accumulator. - verify the problem: Start the engine and allow it to run until the ABS light goes off, then stop the engine. Repeat this procedure 10 times. If there is a problem, the ABS pump should operate the second or third time you start the engine. The ABS motor operates for a short time. - Does the ABS light go off each time the engine is started? If yes, the failure is intermittent and the system is OK right now. If no, continue. - confirm the trouble code. If it is not still 1-8, troubleshoot the new code. - code still 1-8: - replace the accumulator (about $250) - If the symptom appears again, replace the modulator unit (about $800). - Relief valve set pressure is out of spec. - rear solenoid valve is late to close. - pressure set pressure is out of spec. > Find a slippery road (gravel works) and engage the ABS > a few times (when the light is off). Opening and closing the valves > by engaging the ABS might clear the blockage. Otherwise, as you can > see below, you are in for some expensive parts. A quick way of exercising the ABS is to find a paved road with a gravel shoulder. Run two wheels onto the shoulder and brake moderately hard. This will force an instant difference in rotation and engage the ABS with the car moving fairly slowly (even well below the posted speed limit) so as to reduce the fear factor. Move to the other shoulder (with nobody coming the other way!) to exercise the other two wheels. Some older Honda ALB systems can be exercised simply by depressing a plunger with a screwdriver. Maybe this one is the same? Also I'd like to include your troubleshooting rundown in the next FAQ update. OK with you?  SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> Find a slippery road (gravel works) and engage the ABS >> a few times (when the light is off). Opening and closing the valves [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Also I'd like to include your troubleshooting rundown in the next FAQ > update. OK with you? What's ALB? Thanx in advance. > What's ALB? Thanx in advance. It's Honda's private name for ABS. It means "Anti-Lock Braking". I remember reading once that ABS (Anti-Blockier-System) was a trademark of Continental Teves (Alfred Teves GmbH being the inventor), but I can find no supporting evidence for that, so ALB appears to be just a Honda quirk. SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> What's ALB? Thanx in advance. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > no > supporting evidence for that, so ALB appears to be just a Honda quirk. Interesting. Thank you. |
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