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Car Forum / Acura Cars / September 2006

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TL Brake Job

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Knot@Work - 21 Sep 2006 01:31 GMT
Hi

I bought new rotors and pads last week, I have been reading about removing
the screws on the rotors.  It sounds as though this could be a tough job,
does anyone have any tips on this.  I have a 2003 Acura TL.

RWC
TeGGeR® - 21 Sep 2006 02:13 GMT
> Hi
>
> I bought new rotors and pads last week, I have been reading about
> removing the screws on the rotors.  It sounds as though this could be
> a tough job, does anyone have any tips on this.  I have a 2003 Acura
> TL.

Those little screws respond best to an "impact driver". These are $20 or
so at all auto parts outlets.

It's like a really fat screwdriver. You put the correct bit into it,
give it a slight twist in the direction you want the screw to go, then
whack with a hammer until the screw comes loose. Do NOT use a bit one
size too small!

A warning here: You may have difficulty getting the rotors off the hubs
due to rust. You can use the screw holes in the face of the rotor, but
this method may not be sufficient. There is another, much more effective
route that involves a half-pound ball-peen hammer.

Also, once you have the rotor off, you MUST sand the hub flange down to
bare, shiny metal. It, and the mating face on the rotor, MUST be
PERFECTLY clean and flat, otherwise you risk vibration.

Signature

TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Knot@Work - 21 Sep 2006 02:48 GMT
>> Hi
>>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> bare, shiny metal. It, and the mating face on the rotor, MUST be
> PERFECTLY clean and flat, otherwise you risk vibration.

Thanks for the info and for the useful faq link.

RWC
Michael Pardee - 21 Sep 2006 04:00 GMT
>> Hi
>>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> bare, shiny metal. It, and the mating face on the rotor, MUST be
> PERFECTLY clean and flat, otherwise you risk vibration.

Is my memory right, that those are #3 Phillips instead of #2?

Mike
TeGGeR® - 21 Sep 2006 12:20 GMT
>> It's like a really fat screwdriver. You put the correct bit into it,
>> give it a slight twist in the direction you want the screw to go,
>> then whack with a hammer until the screw comes loose. Do NOT use a
>> bit one size too small!
>
> Is my memory right, that those are #3 Phillips instead of #2?

I can never remember the number. It's the biggest one that comes with the
kit, anyway.

Signature

TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Michael Pardee - 22 Sep 2006 02:56 GMT
>>> It's like a really fat screwdriver. You put the correct bit into it,
>>> give it a slight twist in the direction you want the screw to go,
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I can never remember the number. It's the biggest one that comes with the
> kit, anyway.

That's where I went wrong a while back. I assumed it was a #2 and stripped
the heads before I took a closer look. D'oh!

Mike
John Horner - 24 Sep 2006 01:10 GMT
All good points TeGGeR.   The next time I replace my rotors I plan to
get proper size allen head screws from the local industrial fasteners
store to replace those horrible phillips ones Honda uses.  A phillips
bit is a terrible engineering choice for that application.

John
Michael Pardee - 24 Sep 2006 02:00 GMT
> All good points TeGGeR.   The next time I replace my rotors I plan to get
> proper size allen head screws from the local industrial fasteners store to
> replace those horrible phillips ones Honda uses.  A phillips bit is a
> terrible engineering choice for that application.
>
> John

Nonsense - they went in on the assembly line just fine <8^P

Mike
SilverStude - 21 Sep 2006 13:18 GMT
> Hi
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> RWC

  Don't forget, a small shot of something like PB Blaster, Kroil or
Seafoam, an hour or so before you try to remove it, will make a big
difference....
 
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