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Car Forum / Acura Cars / March 2007

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'91 Integra smells rich

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Art M - 24 Feb 2007 03:40 GMT
Smells like it's running rich, that is. 187,000 miles, Integra LS. Only code
I get occasionally is for the EGR valve (it's not getting vacuum).

4000 miles ago I changed the head gasket, valve seals, pcv valve. It runs
great. It's an automatic yet it squeals the tires a bit if I floor it.

What should I check?

Thanks.

--Art
Tegger - 24 Feb 2007 03:58 GMT
> Smells like it's running rich, that is. 187,000 miles, Integra LS.
> Only code I get occasionally is for the EGR valve (it's not getting
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> What should I check?

Your description is hopelessly vague.

What was the exact numeric EGR code? Do you clear the code then it comes
back?

Does your nose double as an emissions sensor? How do you know whether
you're "running rich" or whether you've got raw gas dumping out the
tailpipe?

Further questions: Age of ignition components? Gereral condition of engine?
Compression? Gas mileage?

Questions, questions...

Signature

Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

rastapasta - 24 Feb 2007 05:18 GMT
>> Smells like it's running rich, that is. 187,000 miles, Integra LS.
>> Only code I get occasionally is for the EGR valve (it's not getting
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Questions, questions...

I smell a ton more gas in my garage after I boosted the Teg
Art M - 04 Mar 2007 20:09 GMT
>> Smells like it's running rich, that is. 187,000 miles, Integra LS.
>> Only code I get occasionally is for the EGR valve (it's not getting
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Questions, questions...

---------------------------------------------

(Haven't been able to do email for a while...)

It's code 12 for the EGR. (I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the line to the EGR
and it doesn't show vacuum even when the car is warmed up and throttle is
applied, following the Mitty pump's instructions. I see now in the Haynes
manual that it says to jumper the solenoid for the test. Haven't tried that.
Applying vacuum to the valve will stall the engine) I haven't gotten around
to fixing it. I have reset and it has shown up again. Occasionally the
engine light comes on (but hasn't in a while) and the only code is 12.

I never claimed my nose was an emissions sensor, but it's all I have to go
on. I also NEVER claimed that it was running rich, just that it smelled LIKE
it was running rich. Emissions testing is not required here to pass
inspection.

I gave the biggies as to the engine condition as far as the new head gasket.
Also new plugs, rotor button and cap, battery, pcv valve, cleaned the
breather
box, cleaned the valves and seats of carbon as well as the piston heads and
chamber. Can't remember when I changed the plug wires, but I don't think
they're that old. Haven't checked compression since doing the head gasket
(my brother is going to bring the tester soon), but based on the engine's
performance I don't think there is a problem with that.

I wasn't looking for a diagnosis based on my brief account. Just wanted to
know what to start checking.

--Art

also--I've only filled this car up a few times in the last year so I can't
really say much about gas mileage. Fuel filter is only 5000 miles old. Also
adjusted the valves. Only one (exhaust) valve was way off and tapping.
Sounds good now.
Tegger - 04 Mar 2007 22:48 GMT
> It's code 12 for the EGR. (I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the line to
> the EGR and it doesn't show vacuum even when the car is warmed up and
> throttle is applied, following the Mitty pump's instructions.

Wrong instructions. Engine should be at idle for the test. You should
NOT see vacuum from the control solenoid at idle.

If there is NO vacuum at idle, you then apply vacuum directly to the EGR
valve, applying 8" of vacuum. Valve should hold the vacuum and the idle
should drop and become rough, or even stall.

> I see
> now in the Haynes manual that it says to jumper the solenoid for the
> test. Haven't tried that. Applying vacuum to the valve will stall the
> engine) I haven't gotten around to fixing it.

Good! That's what you want!

> I have reset and it has
> shown up again. Occasionally the engine light comes on (but hasn't in
> a while) and the only code is 12.

If you have no symptoms other than the code 12, the problem is probably
that the EGR valve is carboned up and is not opening properly so as to
satisfy the ECU. If it were sticking open, you'd have driveability
problems.

> I never claimed my nose was an emissions sensor, but it's all I have
> to go on. I also NEVER claimed that it was running rich, just that it
> smelled LIKE it was running rich. Emissions testing is not required
> here to pass inspection.

I'm assuming that "smells rich" means you can smell raw gas out the
tailpipe.

> I gave the biggies as to the engine condition as far as the new head
> gasket. Also new plugs, rotor button and cap, battery, pcv valve,
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> based on the engine's performance I don't think there is a problem
> with that.

If you have raw gas out the tailpipe, this indicates a simple problem
with poor combustion. The usual cause of poor combustion is poor spark.
The usual cause of poor spark is secondary ignition components that are
worn or leaking current, the coil usually being the main culprit.

It sounds like your plug wires are either very old or aftermarket, both
very bad things. I base this on the fact that you do not know how old
they are. OEM wires have the year of manufacture printed on them. They
should be replaced every five years. The plugs should be replaced every
two, maximum.

Ignition system neglect will cause eventual weakness in the coil,
leading to a weak spark even after replacement of other components. In
this case the coil must be replaced. There is a good chance your coil
has become weak.

I think your problem is nothing more than general neglect and the use of
aftermarket ignition parts.

Signature

Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 
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