Grumpy AuContraire <Grumpy@ExtraGrumpyville.com> wrote in news:XuWmi.172669
$Sa4.145889@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

You might say that, yes.

Too bad one of them is now random...

z <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in news:1184877067.710654.26610
@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

That's an interesting idea (I mean making the comparison, not you being
a klutz).

I had a bit of a think about it, and it really seems quite simple:
Immobilize one wrench in such a way as not to interfere with its action,
then hook another one up to it via the usual square drive.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/torque_wrench_comparing_1.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/torque_wrench_comparing_2.jpg

Each wrench has a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, then a 10mm socket, then a
section of 10mmm Allen rod connects the two.

I've barely got the click one clamped in, just tight enough to keep it
from falling through the vise. A quick measurement with a micrometer
shows no apparent distortion of the tube. Then I placed my hand on the
square drive end of the beam-type, just like you would if tightening a
bolt with extensions on the torque wrench.

Remember that the click-type's mechanism is internal to the tube. So
long as I do not interfere with the head's pivot pin or the tilt
mechanism inside, the readings should be unaffected by the vise.

I had the click-type set to only 30 ft lbs, so as to minimize any
malevolent forces should something slip.

The click-type wrench clicked as the beam type approached 30 lbs, but it
always clicked a couple of pounds short of 30 on the beam's reading.
Tolerance on the click-type is given as 4% up or down, so theoretically
a reading of 30 could actually mean anywhere between 28.8 to 31.2. And
heaven only knows what the tolerance is on my 35 year-old beam-type.

z <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in news:1184877067.710654.26610
@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

Huh. I sent a reply a couple of hours ago but it foes not seem to have
shown up anywhere. Here it is again:

That's an interesting idea (I mean making the comparison, not you being
a klutz).

I had a bit of a think about it, and it really seems quite simple:
Immobilize one wrench in such a way as not to interfere with its action,
then hook another one up to it via the usual square drive.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/torque_wrench_comparing_1.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/torque_wrench_comparing_2.jpg

Each wrench has a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, then a 10mm socket, then a
section of 10mmm Allen rod connects the two.

I've barely got the click one clamped in, just tight enough to keep it
from falling through the vise. A quick measurement with a micrometer
shows no apparent distortion of the tube. Then I placed my hand on the
square drive end of the beam-type, just like you would if tightening a
bolt with extensions on the torque wrench.

Remember that the click-type's mechanism is internal to the tube. So
long as I do not interfere with the head's pivot pin or the tilt
mechanism inside, the readings should be unaffected by the vise.

I had the click-type set to only 30 ft lbs, so as to minimize any
malevolent forces should something slip.

The click-type wrench clicked as the beam type approached 30 lbs, but it
always clicked a couple of pounds short of 30 on the beam's reading.
Tolerance on the click-type is given as 4% up or down, so theoretically
a reading of 30 could actually mean anywhere between 28.8 to 31.2. And
heaven only knows what the tolerance is on my 35 year-old beam-type.

Not *that* important, but...it depends on the application.

Most automotive fasteners of any importance have substantial built-in
safety factors. Some do not, such as cam bearing cap bolts. Those only
torque to seven foot pounds, a lot lower than many people are used to
working with. Overtorque those enough and big trouble can surface.

It is. Especially with stuff like head gaskets.

Uneven nut torque is not nearly as significant a factor for brake
vibration as some other things.

A LOT more precise. The smaller, the more fragile the threads.

I own just one Snap-On tool, a 12mm six point combo wrench. Let me tell
you, after spending $35 on it, that thing gets the goose-down treatment.

I just like doing work properly. Tighten enough bolts and you eventually
acquire a "feel" for the "right" torque. This works in most cases, and
is necessary in situations where you have no room for the bulk of a
torque wrench. For the rest, I use the torque wrench.

I have neither broken a bolt nor had one come loose on me, since about
1985.

I did overtighten the auto tranny oil pan drain bolt (a very small bolt)
on my wife's '99 Tercel two years ago. The threads on the bolt shifted,
resulting in the need to replace the bolt. Luckily, the bolt threads
were softer than the pan threads, so a new bolt was all that was
required. I have been much more careful since.