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Car Forum / Acura Cars / February 2008Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Integra, now a few more questions.
On the left half shaft, between the inner boot and the transaxle, there is a cast iron support bracket with three bolts attached to the body frame. How do you slide the shaft out from this support? I ended up removing the support and shaft as one unit. There is a solid rubber doughnut thingy on the shaft between the inner and outer CV boots. It is on both right and left sides of the half shafts. What is this for? Dampening vibrations? I broke my cheap 1/2" torque wrench jumping on that hub nut. So who makes a reliable and accurate 1/2" torque wrench that goes beyond 200 ft.-lbs. I have the click type, but would a dial or digital type be more convenient and accurate? > On the left half shaft, between the inner boot and the transaxle, > there is a cast iron support bracket with three bolts attached to the > body frame. How do you slide the shaft out from this support? I ended > up removing the support and shaft as one unit. That's the center bearing. You just use a pry bar to carefully pop the inner CV joint out from the center bearing. <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/alt_replacement/7-inner-cv-joint-loose.jpg> > There is a solid rubber doughnut thingy on the shaft between the inner > and outer CV boots. It is on both right and left sides of the half > shafts. What is this for? Dampening vibrations? Supposedly, yes. > I broke my cheap 1/2" torque wrench jumping on that hub nut. To tighten it or get it loose? Either way you did a dumb thing. A torque wrench is a precision instrument, not a diving board. > So who > makes a reliable and accurate 1/2" torque wrench that goes beyond 200 > ft.-lbs. I have the click type, but would a dial or digital type be > more convenient and accurate? WHY are you tightening it to 200 ft lbs? Are you reading one of those stupid Haynes or Chiltons that tell you to tighten the nut to 200 ft lbs? Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200.  SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> On the left half shaft, between the inner boot and the transaxle, >> there is a cast iron support bracket with three bolts attached to the [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200. my Haynes manual says 134 ft-lbs. SignatureJim Yanik jyanik at kua.net >> Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200. > > my Haynes manual says 134 ft-lbs. My Chilton says 134 ft-lbs for the Integra but its so confusing as it also cover other non Integra and had the torque specification over 200 ft-lbs but it didn't state for which model on the exploded diagram I was looking at. My fault for not reading every line and every page. Had another manual, forgot if its Haynes or Chilton, for the Volvo. It covers various years and for this year you go to that page and for that year you go to another page except for another year that only chapters so and so applies -- so confusing. >>> Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200. >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > that year you go to another page except for another year that only > chapters so and so applies -- so confusing. Buy a true Helms manual. Expensive but worth every penny. Explains all this in copious detail, also including tool modification tips and some explanations of technique. eBay or www.helminc.com SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> On the left half shaft, between the inner boot and the transaxle, >> there is a cast iron support bracket with three bolts attached to the [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > To tighten it or get it loose? Either way you did a dumb thing. > A torque wrench is a precision instrument, not a diving board. Set for 134 ft lb, but it didn't click like usual so I put a little more weight on it and the spring shot out at the end of the wrench. Anyway its over 30 years old, time for a better one. >> So who >> makes a reliable and accurate 1/2" torque wrench that goes beyond 200 [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200. Yes, I have other cars and some torque specifications are over 230 lbs. > That's the center bearing. You just use a pry bar to > carefully pop the inner CV joint out from the center bearing. > <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/alt_replacement/7-inner-cv-joint-loose.jpg> Ok, thanks. No retaining clips to remove first? >> That's the center bearing. You just use a pry bar to >> carefully pop the inner CV joint out from the center bearing. >> <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/alt_replacement/7-inner-cv-joint- >> loose.jpg> > > Ok, thanks. No retaining clips to remove first? No. You drive the outer joint nose out of the hub, then pop the inner out of the center bearing with the pry bar. Take care so as not to damage the rubber sealing lip and surface, so watch how far the pry bar is inserted into the gap. The Honda manual actually gives diagrams for modifying a flat-blade scredriver to make a tool that won't damage the inner joint as you pop it loose. There is a clip on the splines of the inner shaft. It can help on re-installation to smear a touch of CV joint grease on the clip to hold it centered as you push the splines together again. If the clip drops down (off-center), the joint splines may not go together as the clip hangs up on the center bearing splines. Slide the inner joint spline back into the center bearing slowly and carefully, making sure you don't fold the rubber sealing lip over. A bit of grease on that will help too. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
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