Disc brake pads are easy to replace,any mechanic should be able to do it.If
your rotors are too deeply grooved,you may need to replace the rotors,too.
Rotors 'can' be lathe-turned to smooth them,BUT only once,then the rotor is
too thin to be legally turned again,and some on this NG would rather just
replace the rotors.
The Haynes or other service manual will have the procedure for changing
brake pads.

You didn't mention how long you've had the car or the maintenance that
has been done on it thus far, but if you have noticed a decrease in
gas mileage while other factors remained the same (i.e. same driving
style, same season (temperature), same gas type/brand, etc...) then it
may be in need of some basic maintenance.

First and foremote, make sure your tires are properly inflated - ideal
pressures are listed on driver door jamb.  After that, do the other
low-cost maintenance stuff including inspection/replacement of air
filter, spark plugs and wires (if needed).  Another piece to check is
the PCV valve, the small plug on the valve cover.  Pull it out and
give it a shake - if you don't hear a free rattle then it's due to be
replaced (also a cheap part).  You may want to try a bottle of that
fuel injector cleaner stuff in a tank of gas; it's debatable how much
(if any) these products actually help, but they can't hurt and they're
also cheap ($2?).

Each of these factors may cause a small impact on fuel efficiency,
which may add up over time if neglected.  See your owner's manual for
recommended intervals.  I'm neurotic about doing all the basic
maintenance on my 96 Integra LS with 140K miles; I still get the rated
MPG.

Once all this easy stuff is done, then you may want to look into more
in-depth (i.e. expensive) work like valve adjustments.

And BTW - as everyone else pointed out, that 'whirring sound'
definitely seems like it's the ABS pump.  I hear the same thing on my
96 Integra every time I start it up (or activate the ABS), which
actually brings me to another suggestion - if you want to know for
sure if it's the ABS, find a parking lot with a nice sandy patch and
lock up the brakes to engage the ABS and then listen.... is that the
same sound you heard?  If so, then you've confirmed what it is...  ;-)

Good luck!

Kevin Sargent
96 Integra LS

==============

The manual tells you how often to change the brake fluid. It absorbs
water over time, and water will rust the inside of the lines, calipers,
and the rust can eat out your sealing surfaces of the pistons. Water
can't take presurization the way brake fluid can, and can apparently
boil at an innapropriate time. Air is also in there, and it will all be
purged with a flush-n-fill of the brakes.

If your Integra had a standard transmission, I'd have reminded you to
have the clutch hydraulics drained too.

Regarding bad fuel mileage... Your PCV valve probably hasn't been
changed since you've had it. See the owner's manual for the interval. If
you're taking the car in anyhow, just get it done (or do it yourself). :-)

'Curly'

I said Brembo OE rotors, which I know about.  I used Acura/Honda pads with
the new rotors so can't comment on the Brembo pads.  Take a look here
http://www.importrp.com/ for good prices on rotors and figure which pads
you might want, if not Acura/Honda.  I'd figure a good mechanic, working
carefully and doing the job carefully - lots of clean-up - should take
about an hour per wheel for rotors and pads change.  If your front rotors
look OK, I wouldn't change them.

IMO there was something about the rear rotors fitted to my '99 which
indicated inferior metal alloy - they corroded at an alarming rate... which
is why I decided I wouldn't risk the same again with the Acura/Honda parts.
The hub plates on my car also had rust deposit build-up, around the two
holes in them, from the corroding rotors which was, I believe, the cause of
the warped rotor syndrome.  Those rotors were real crap material.

Are the valves noisy when the engine is warmed up?  A good check for
whether valve adjustment is needed: in a low gear, say 2nd, let the car
coast on just slight deceleration; now gently take up the drive to just
gentle acceleration.  If you get any sign of chugging, instead of a smooth
transition, it's a good chance you have some valves which are out of
adjustment.  I'd also check the ignition timing as a possible cause of
performance/fuel consumption problems.  Also, are you sure your engine is
getting up to full operating temp?

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

==================

I suggested he should read the fine manual, and that he should test the
dash lamps to make sure they are indicating correctly.

'Curly'

==================

For what?  The brief burp at 6kph is normal.  If it runs too long, it has
to run for something like 20secs before the idiot light comes on and shuts
the system off.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??