Bleeding Clutch Master Cyl

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frozenbob - 15 Mar 2005 21:27 GMT

New to the group and fairly new to Fieros. Have an 86 2m4 and replaced
timing gears and cam and put in performance clutch while the engine was
out. Now I'm having a tough time bleeding all the air out of the clutch
master. I removed the slave and inspected the seals, fully primed and
bled the slave on the bench and it seems to be fine. I can't get enough
travel out of the slave to properly disengage the clutch and the master
does not feel like it does anything until the pedal gets about half way
down. I feel that the slave is fully bled but it feels like I can't get
all the air out of the master. I have bled about a litre of fluid out
through the system at the slave and it still acts the same. Any
suggestions??
frozenbob

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David S. - 16 Mar 2005 05:59 GMT

I haven't done a clutch, but the bleed screw on a brake caliper let air bleed back around it. I got
almost a quart of brake fluid through the brake master cylinder before I got the screw entirely
sealed - kept adding grease around the threads until it stopped leaking air.

Maybe applicable, maybe not. Best of luck.

Dave S.

> New to the group and fairly new to Fieros. Have an 86 2m4 and replaced
> timing gears and cam and put in performance clutch while the engine was
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> suggestions??
> frozenbob

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ThaDriver - 16 Mar 2005 09:36 GMT

You can get pressure bleed kits & that's a good way to remove the air. Also
a vacumn pump usually works well. It's not easy to get all the air out but
if you keep bleeding it you'll get it sooner or later. Just make sure
you're not getting air back in before you tighten the bleeder.~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

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John - 16 Mar 2005 16:18 GMT

Hey all....
As a veteran of the "Clutch Wars" (I had a 3.4L dropped in and Clutch
and Trans)
The clutch bleeding will keep you awake at nights....
I HIGHLY reccommend you go to V-8 Archie site at v8archie.com
Then go to "Archims" and click on Clutch Bleeding.
This is the holy grail of clutch bleeding....
Good luck.. and remember the clutch is supposed to bleed.. not the owner!!
John

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Todd Zuercher - 17 Mar 2005 02:49 GMT

If your car dosn't have the cast iron lever for the throw out fork
upgrade then the performance clutch will be to stiff for the steel peice
of crap a lot of the 4cylender clutches had. Also check for bent
aluminum clutch peadle. If all these are fine you can try pushing the
slave cyl piston in while bleeding to get any air trapped in the slave
out. Besides these sugestions I don't know?

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frozenbob - 18 Mar 2005 03:01 GMT

I got mad and pulled the engine last night and found that the fork,
where it goes throught the bell housing, was almost seized. Warmed it
with the torch and it loosened right up and then I slid it out and up
and wire brushed the bad spot in the fork shaft then coated it with
anti seize. It's so loose now that I wonder how I could get the clutch
to disengage at all before. Dropped the engine back in and will finish
connecting all the wires and coolant hoses tomorrow after work and let
you know how it turns out. I called the guy at Fierostore.com where I
got the clutch and he said for the performance clutch they use the same
pressure plate so it shouldn't need the cast lever unless it is cracked
or damaged.
Frozen Bob

> > New to the group and fairly new to Fieros. Have an 86 2m4 and replaced
> > timing gears and cam and put in performance clutch while the engine was
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> slave cyl piston in while bleeding to get any air trapped in the slave
> out. Besides these sugestions I don't know?

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