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Car Forum / Pontiac / Pontiac Fiero / August 2005

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Camshaft chain tensioner

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Ron - 21 Aug 2005 19:20 GMT
Hi,

I own a 1987 2.8 V6 Fiero.
Since a couple of days ago I can't start the car anymore.
Startengine runs well en after a couple of thies I can smell wasted fuel.
The last time I started the car before this problem occured, I heard a
terrible mechanical sound from the from the engine room, so I swithed off
the enigine immediatly.

After being towed to my garage they told me what was happened;
The tensioner of the camshaftchain collapsed (the sound I already mentioned)
Result the camshaft chain has jumped over the camshaftwheel, timing of the
valves and ignition has changed.
The ingnitiontiming is not important at the moment.
The changed timing of the valves might have damaged the pistons?
The wheel mounted is on the cranckshaft seems to be a kind of nylon wheel.
This was a dammage what occurd moe than once.

My questions are;
Has anyone any idee why did Pontiac fit a kind of nylon wheel there below.
Is there anybody who has in past faced the same damage.
JazzMan - 21 Aug 2005 22:31 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Has anyone any idee why did Pontiac fit a kind of nylon wheel there below.
> Is there anybody who has in past faced the same damage.

Ok, your mechanics are telling you many things that are
not true. First, the Fiero 2.8 does not have a camshaft
chain tensioner. What it does have is a dampener that the
chain can rub against to prevent standing waves from
occurring in the chain as it goes around the sprockets.

Here is a picture:
http://web2.airmail.net/jsavage1/formula/timingchain.jpg
The dampener is the piece between the sprockets, it is made of
sheet metal with rubber coatings on each side where the chain rubs. The
chain does not have enough slack in it to allow it to jump teeth unless
the chain and sprockets are both extremely worn out, this only happens
on
engines with very high mileage or that have not had their oil changed
regularly. It is routine for pieces of the dampener rubber to wear away
and break off, no harm occurs because of this.

Now, as to the valves hitting the pistons, as far as I can tell the 2.8
engine design does not open the valves to interfere with the pistons, so
it is extremely unlikely that this happened in your case. Installing a
new
timing chain and gear set (they only come in sets) and replacing the
dampener
should fully restore your engine. Setting the cam and ignition timing is
very,
very easy in the 2.8. Since you have to remove the water pump to get to
the
timing gears I would consider replacing that as a preventative measure,
it is
very easy to clean the water pump mounting surface out of the car, which
it
has to be since it is part of the timing cover that has to be removed to
change
the timing chain set.

JazzMan
Signature

**********************************************************
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
**********************************************************
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
**********************************************************

Ron - 23 Aug 2005 09:51 GMT
Hi Jazzman

thanks for the respons.
Have an other question, is it true almost half of the engine has to be taken
from the car to replace that chain?

> > Hi,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 63 lines]
> live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
> **********************************************************
JazzMan - 24 Aug 2005 02:15 GMT
Half the engine!?!?!?!?

Whoever told you that is on crack.

You can change the timing chain and gear set in the
car, will take you about a day if you've not done it
before. You'll need a puller to get the old gear off
the crank and a harmonic dampener puller, both can be
rented from most local auto parts store really cheaply,
or you can buy a puller set from Harbor Freight Tools:

This pulls the harmonic dampener:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37824

This pulls the gear off the crank:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32184

The rest is done with a generic metric tool set. You'll need a good
service manual, or barring that, the Haynes service manual.

Basically, you drain the coolant from the engine, then remove the
water pump, the harmonic dampener, the timing cover, and there
you are. Now, it's a bit more involved than that, there's a few
small brackets and such you have to remove also, and cleaning all
the gasket surfaces takes time and is tedious, and occasionally
you'll run into a stuck bolt that'll eat up time, but it's most
definitely something you don't have to disassemble half the motor
to do.

JazzMan

> Hi Jazzman
>
[quoted text clipped - 64 lines]
> > change
> > the timing chain set.

Signature

**********************************************************
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
**********************************************************
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
**********************************************************

R W Hughes - 24 Aug 2005 06:20 GMT
> Basically, you drain the coolant from the engine, then remove the
> water pump, the harmonic dampener, the timing cover, and there
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> definitely something you don't have to disassemble half the motor
> to do.

not to mention the fact that most of the timing cover/water pump bolts
are invention of the devil Torx and will strip out when you try to
remove them.
Signature

Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W or perhaps 30:55.265N, 95:20.590W
Houston, Texas "The city with too much Oxygen"
rwhughe@oplink.net

John Craker - 24 Aug 2005 06:32 GMT
IF it's a late 87 or 88 that is...

Otherwise...  10, 13, 15mm bolts.

> not to mention the fact that most of the timing cover/water pump bolts are
> invention of the devil Torx and will strip out when you try to remove
> them.
R W Hughes - 24 Aug 2005 17:15 GMT
> IF it's a late 87 or 88 that is...
>
> Otherwise...  10, 13, 15mm bolts.

Mine is a very early (VIN =1662) 87 and I ran into this when replacing
the water pump, had to cut the heads off of four bolts. Replaced them
with standard metric bolts which was also a pain, since none of the
neighborhood hardware places stock bolts long enough.

Signature

Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W or perhaps 30:55.265N, 95:20.590W
Houston, Texas "The city with too much Oxygen"
rwhughe@oplink.net

don_knutts@yahoo.com - 25 Aug 2005 23:41 GMT
I'm fortunate to have a hardware store in the area with a 'bolt room'.
I used stainless for all the water pump bolts.
 
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