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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Antique Cars / March 2005Painting question
Greetings, I am working on the brake system to a 1954 Ford F-100 and am sandblasting the last 50 years of rust and gunk away. I have the whole brake plate and assembly off the suspension and laying on my work bench. Anyway, the question is, once cleaned, is there a good all-purpose, one coat paint I can use? Or, do I need to prime it and then paint? > Greetings, > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > question is, once cleaned, is there a good all-purpose, one coat paint I can > use? Or, do I need to prime it and then paint? Always prime first. I'm going through the same thing with my '55 Stude coupe project, although instead of sandblasting, I'm electrolytically derusting everything. (fortunately, there isn't much rust.) I've been using Plasti-Kote semi-gloss black "wheel paint" in a rattle can because a) it's supposed to be resistant to brake dust b) it's the correct gloss, or close enough to it that nobody will say anything and c) it's 99 cents a can at my local Ollie's :) Time will tell if it works any better than Krylon. If you're doing a high buck resto you may want to have the backing plates powder coated or painted with something like Imron. nate  Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > Greetings, > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > question is, once cleaned, is there a good all-purpose, one coat paint I can > use? Or, do I need to prime it and then paint? Always prime. I use Rustoleum for areas under the car. George Patterson I prefer Heaven for climate but Hell for company. Thanks for the info. I ended up going with POR 15 from the paint jobber shop. You're Plasti-Kote doesn't sound too bad for 99 cents. POR 15 is expensive - a pint cost me $23 with tax. No restoration for me, just rebuilding. I want something I can drive afterwards without being super-paranoid because of value. > Thanks for the info. I ended up going with POR 15 from the paint jobber > shop. You're Plasti-Kote doesn't sound too bad for 99 cents. POR 15 is > expensive - a pint cost me $23 with tax. > > No restoration for me, just rebuilding. I want something I can drive > afterwards without being super-paranoid because of value. I like POR-15 too, but it doesn't work very well on metal without any "tooth." Since you've sandblasted your parts instead of electrolyically derusting them you should be OK though (but it wouldn't work for my application.) nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel remember POR will fade from UV exposure. The stuff will turn gray. POR recommends coating it with a UV resistant paint they sell. > Thanks for the info. I ended up going with POR 15 from the paint jobber > shop. You're Plasti-Kote doesn't sound too bad for 99 cents. POR 15 is > expensive - a pint cost me $23 with tax. > > No restoration for me, just rebuilding. I want something I can drive > afterwards without being super-paranoid because of value. |
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