Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Antique Cars / May 2004
bumper rechrome get-ready steps - DIY preparation & dent filling...
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bill yohler - 12 Mar 2004 03:56 GMT read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper parts....what about brass, as in 'brazed in' filled and filed flat small dings? would that work? (I got plenty of brazing rods, but very little silver solder ;-)
ps - there's very =very= little info online re 'how to prepare your stuff for your visit to the chrome shop', like, zero, far as I can determine...
also, when they chrome, there's NO reason they can't leave the inside 'bare' is there? I'd prefer anti-rust primers and/or epoxy primers in there, over that 'rust-real-quick' brand silver stuff they usually use...
thanks for the education :-)
"Mr Chrome Novice"
Refinish King - 12 Mar 2004 11:04 GMT They plate the inside with plain old nickle:
You can use brazing rod, you can use silver solder, you can use lead. But, why don't you knock out the dent, then grind it smooth with successively finer grit gringing disks?
Like the bumper straighteners/chromers do and like I do. I once filled a rust hole by migging it shut. Mig, then grind, mig, then grind. Till it was filled.
Then off to the chromers.
Refinish King
> read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for > small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > "Mr Chrome Novice" bill yohler - 12 Mar 2004 18:53 GMT > They plate the inside with plain old nickle. oh, ok, thanks ;-/
> You can use brazing rod, you can use silver solder, you can use lead.
> But, > why don't you knock out the dent, then grind it smooth with successively > finer grit grinding disks? it's in the middle of a closed round steel tube bumper 'overrider' bar, is why....
> Like the bumper straighteners/chromers do and like I do. I once filled a > rust hole by migging it shut. Mig, then grind, mig, then grind. Till it was > filled. thanks king -much- for the tips. by the way, is there a reason you prefer steel ("migged in") filler? does it 'take' the chrome better than, say, brazed in brass? I realize it's stronger...
"mr chrome novice"
Refinish King - 28 Mar 2004 03:03 GMT Migging becomes one piece with the parent metal.
Refinish King
> > They plate the inside with plain old nickle. > oh, ok, thanks ;-/ [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > "mr chrome novice" Steve - 12 Mar 2004 12:18 GMT Brass must be OK, I've had brass sheet chrome plated.
I think some materials are copper plated before chroming too.
Steve
> read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for > small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > "Mr Chrome Novice" Tim Wescott - 12 Mar 2004 18:51 GMT Quality chrome-plating jobs are "triple plated", with copper first (because it sticks to everything -- it's like a primer for painting), then nickle as a buffer between the copper and chrome, then chrome. Some cheap places will just do nickle and then chrome, and it'll peel before too long.
I found this page on the web that explains the process -- http://www.wayhome.com/astrochrome/plating.html.
> Brass must be OK, I've had brass sheet chrome plated. > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > > > "Mr Chrome Novice" Steven E. Eyrse - 05 May 2004 23:47 GMT >Quality chrome-plating jobs are "triple plated", with copper first (because >it sticks to everything -- it's like a primer for painting), then nickle as I have used these guys and their good and the price is fair. Their not real fast and have quite a backlog of work most of the time. Steve E.
>a buffer between the copper and chrome, then chrome. Some cheap places will >just do nickle and then chrome, and it'll peel before too long. > >I found this page on the web that explains the process -- >http://www.wayhome.com/astrochrome/plating.html. Henry Votel - 12 Mar 2004 12:51 GMT You are right about finding little on-line about prepping or straightening bumpers DIY for chrome prep or paint. I've got painted bumpers on my Studebaker trucks that I just want to straighten and weld in holes and I'm unable to find any tips or techniques on-line about what tools to use so if there is anyone out there that has some knowledge and tips I would also appreciate hearing from you. Thanks!
Henry Votel Forest Lake, MN
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JR - 12 Mar 2004 13:33 GMT Why bother, most platers do all that as prep work. I've used Tri City Planting in Tenn, good prices ,good work, and they TRIPLE plate I sent rear bumper from my '68 F100, mailed it to them via USPS for 12 bucks! It needed slight straightening , did a great job! After getting it back, I taped off the outside chrome and put several good coats off silver paint on the inside, still looks good today, and I drive it to work EVERY day. That was 5-6 years ago. I was told that the inside IS plated with chrome, they just don't polish it out.Think about it, the whole thing goes into the tank for each plating step. Check out their web site at http://www.tricityplating.com/ I have no interest in this company other than being a happy customer! John R. in NC
> You are right about finding little on-line about prepping or > straightening bumpers DIY for chrome prep or paint. I've got painted [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > --------- Ed Angell - 12 Mar 2004 17:23 GMT > read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for > small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > "Mr Chrome Novice"
>>>> Bill, if the bumper has to be stripped of the old finish, The solutions used for stripping the nickel will dissolve most non ferrous fillers. Mig and grind back if you feel you need to fill the dings, don't braze or silver solder.
Ed Angell
bill yohler - 16 Mar 2004 16:56 GMT "Ed Angell" <edangell@comcast.net> wrote in message:
> if the bumper has to be stripped of the old finish, The solutions used for > stripping the nickel will dissolve most non ferrous fillers. Mig and grind > back if you feel you need to fill the dings, don't braze or silver solder. uh-oh! I _knew_ there'd be a rub....thanks ed :-/
a big <reluctant> "ok/understood" to the above, but one last question:
can I safely assume that IF the existing chrome on my bumper part is (over 90 percent of its surface area, anyway) in '_very_ near perfect' to 'appears brand new chrome' type condition, I can safely assume those 'superb' areas -prior- to rechroming will need 'minimal to no prep work' by the chromers, then, correct?
thanks again :-)
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