Car Forum / Australian Car Forums / General Car Topics (Australian group) / March 2006
VS Water Pump
|
|
Thread rating:  |
Shepo - 20 Feb 2006 04:28 GMT The bearing in my vs water pump is cactus and I don't want to fork out 230 to 250 for someone else to do it. Firstly is it a hard job and will it take an amateur hours and does anyone know someone who can supply and fit cheaper in W.A south of river.
Shepo - 20 Feb 2006 13:55 GMT Can anyone help me on this one? I know it has no controversy involved but hey!!!
Noddy - 20 Feb 2006 22:14 GMT > Can anyone help me on this one? I know it has no controversy involved > but hey!!! Changing water pump bearings is not a difficult task, but you need the right equipment to do it properly or you'll make a pig's breakfast of it. If you don't have a press and the appropriate mandrels (or access to them), then you're not going to be able to do it.
If you're capable of removing and refitting the pump from the engine, then a replacement pump from Repco or Bursons will be significantly cheaper than having it done by a mechanic. Failing that, you can remove your old pump and find a radiator repairer that handles pump reconditioning who will repair your old one.
-- Regards, Noddy.
John_H - 20 Feb 2006 23:04 GMT >Changing water pump bearings is not a difficult task, but you need the right >equipment to do it properly or you'll make a pig's breakfast of it. If you >don't have a press and the appropriate mandrels (or access to them), then >you're not going to be able to do it. You've been spoilt! :)
There's not many that can't be rebuilt in twenty minutes or so using a decent sized vise and a few bits of scrap steel but ,as you say, there's plenty of scope for disaster.
Finding parts is getting to be the hard bit. Water pump kits are fast becoming extinct and a lot of manufacturers no longer supply individual parts either. Bearings are usually available from bearing suppliers but seals often aren't. How this might apply to the Dunny I have no idea.
Aftermarket replacement pumps for most makes are relatively cheap, typically well under $100, but there's some awfully shitty brands about the place. I've recently had a couple fail in under six months -- at least the supplier (Repco) credited them back.
 Signature John H
Shepo - 21 Feb 2006 01:01 GMT The average price for a new pump is only $65 so I will be replacing the pump and it doesn't look like it's gonna be a hard job so I'm worried that there is something hidden because of the price I was given by the mechanic to supply and fit after having priced the pump at 3 different auto parts at retail.
Noddy - 21 Feb 2006 01:51 GMT > The average price for a new pump is only $65 so I will be replacing the > pump and it doesn't look like it's gonna be a hard job so I'm worried > that there is something hidden because of the price I was given by the > mechanic to supply and fit after having priced the pump at 3 different > auto parts at retail. No, it's a pretty straight forward job on the V6 Commy.
-- Regards, Noddy.
Shepo - 21 Feb 2006 03:13 GMT Thanks and how do I loosen the belt to get it off
Noddy - 21 Feb 2006 03:58 GMT > Thanks and how do I loosen the belt to get it off Trot along to your local library and borrow a workshop manual. It's likely to save you a lot of headaches.
-- Regards, Noddy.
Ron - 21 Feb 2006 05:07 GMT >> Thanks and how do I loosen the belt to get it off > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Regards, > Noddy. How come you are being so nice? Totally out of character :-)
Ron
Noddy - 21 Feb 2006 09:11 GMT > How come you are being so nice? > Totally out of character :-) I had my monthly lay the other night, and am still feeling the afterglow.
Gimmie a few days :)
-- Regards, Noddy.
Noddy - 21 Feb 2006 01:51 GMT > You've been spoilt! :) Lol :)
> There's not many that can't be rebuilt in twenty minutes or so using a > decent sized vise and a few bits of scrap steel but ,as you say, > there's plenty of scope for disaster. There is.
I was just assuming that the guy had limited experience with such things, and without the *proper* tooling it might be a daunting task. Then again if he was able to do the job without a press he wouldn't be asking in here :)
> Finding parts is getting to be the hard bit. Water pump kits are fast > becoming extinct and a lot of manufacturers no longer supply > individual parts either. Bearings are usually available from bearing > suppliers but seals often aren't. How this might apply to the Dunny I > have no idea. Me either.
> Aftermarket replacement pumps for most makes are relatively cheap, > typically well under $100, but there's some awfully shitty brands > about the place. I've recently had a couple fail in under six months > -- at least the supplier (Repco) credited them back. Agreed.
Put one on the Jeep when I first got it as it had a slight weep, and it was rattling it's head off inside of 12 months.
-- Regards, Noddy.
Andy - 21 Feb 2006 08:21 GMT <snip>
> Aftermarket replacement pumps for most makes are relatively cheap, > typically well under $100, but there's some awfully shitty brands > about the place. I've recently had a couple fail in under six months > -- at least the supplier (Repco) credited them back. Which brand out of interest?
Andy.
John_H - 21 Feb 2006 08:34 GMT >Which brand out of interest? Silverline. GMB is probably a better option. Repco sell both.
 Signature John H
DalienX - 20 Feb 2006 15:45 GMT > The bearing in my vs water pump is cactus and I don't want to fork out > 230 to 250 for someone else to do it. Firstly is it a hard job and > will it take an amateur hours and does anyone know someone who can > supply and fit cheaper in W.A south of river. IT all depends how mechanicly minded you are, im no expert but i can say for certain that the big windy belt thing will have to come off and that alone can take a while to get back on.
Clockmeister - 21 Feb 2006 15:00 GMT >> The bearing in my vs water pump is cactus and I don't want to fork out >> 230 to 250 for someone else to do it. Firstly is it a hard job and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > say for certain that the big windy belt thing will have to come off and > that alone can take a while to get back on. Yeah, that 30 seconds is an eternity...
DalienX - 21 Feb 2006 15:40 GMT > Yeah, that 30 seconds is an eternity... sure it might be 30 seconds for you but for someone who is not 100% sure which way the belt even goes on....
Clockmeister - 22 Feb 2006 15:27 GMT >> Yeah, that 30 seconds is an eternity... > > sure it might be 30 seconds for you but for someone who is not 100% > sure which way the belt even goes on.... That is why you draw a diagram before you remove the old one.
Arnie - 23 Feb 2006 06:12 GMT > >> Yeah, that 30 seconds is an eternity... > > > > sure it might be 30 seconds for you but for someone who is not 100% > > sure which way the belt even goes on.... > > That is why you draw a diagram before you remove the old one. If you just match the grooved pulleys with the grooved side of the belt and the flat pulleys with the flat side of the belt, it's actually pretty hard to run the belt any other way!
Clockmeister - 23 Feb 2006 09:58 GMT >> >> Yeah, that 30 seconds is an eternity... >> > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the flat pulleys with the flat side of the belt, it's actually pretty hard > to run the belt any other way! Yeah, in theory.
John McKenzie - 22 Feb 2006 00:22 GMT > Yeah, that 30 seconds is an eternity... it is if your scrotum is stuck in a toaster, at least based on empirical evidence.
 Signature John McKenzie
tosspam@aol.com abuse@aol.com abuse@yahoo.com abuse@hotmail.com abuse@msn.com abuse@sprint.com abuse@earthlink.com fraudinfo@psinet.com sweep.day@accc.gov.au uce@ftc.gov I am the angel of jute, vengeance will be twine admin@loopback $LOGIN@localhost $LOGNAME@localhost $USER@localhost $USER@$HOST -h1024@localhost root@mailloop.com president@whitehouse.gov vice.president@whitehouse.gov abuse@iprimus.com.au abuse@cia.gov abuse@fbi.gov abuse@asio.gov.au abuse@federalpolice.gov.au
Clockmeister - 22 Feb 2006 15:25 GMT >> Yeah, that 30 seconds is an eternity... > > it is if your scrotum is stuck in a toaster, at least based on empirical > evidence. lol
diesel_fuel - 21 Feb 2006 04:41 GMT When refilling with coolant there is a bleeder valve on the thermostat housing http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?threadid=12746
> The bearing in my vs water pump is cactus and I don't want to fork out > 230 to 250 for someone else to do it. Firstly is it a hard job and will > it take an amateur hours and does anyone know someone who can supply > and fit cheaper in W.A south of river. Clockmeister - 21 Feb 2006 15:24 GMT > The bearing in my vs water pump is cactus and I don't want to fork out > 230 to 250 for someone else to do it. Firstly is it a hard job and will > it take an amateur hours and does anyone know someone who can supply > and fit cheaper in W.A south of river. You can do it yourself if you have a toolkit that consists of better sockets that don't have "made in Taiwan" written on them.
I can do them in 30 minutes, the average Joe who possesses some mechanical aptitude should be able to do them in a couple of hours taking it easy.
1. Remove the fan assembly. Typically four 10mm bolts and an electrical connector. This bit is optional, but a good idea for a noob since access is much easier. 2. Crack the four 3/8 or 10mm bolts on the waterpump pulley. Use single hex sockets to avoid stripping the heads. 3. Remove the belt. Removing the belt is easy, just use socket and knucklebar or ring spanner to force the belt tensioner against the spring tension and remove the belt. Draw a diagram of how the belt before you pull it off to help you when it's time to put it back on. 4. Remove the waterpump pulley. Easy now that you have already cracked the four bolts in step 2 ;-) 5. Remove the waterpump bolts. You will lose coolant so catch it in something and dispose of it thoughtfully. You can pull the bottom hose off and drain the coolant first if you want to, but I normally don't bother. 6. Clean the old gasket off with a scraper and a bit of emery if required. 7. Clean the bolt threads. Don't skip this bit. 8. Apply sealant to the mating surfaces, I use aviation goo but anything that will tolerate coolant should do. Don't use too much, a thin smear on both sides of the gasket will be enough. 9. Bolt the waterpump up and torque the bolts to firm, but don't overtighten in particular the smaller bolts as they snap pretty easily. 10. Refit the pulley. Nip up the bolts. 11. Refit the belt, reverse to removal. 12. Tighten the pulley bolts. 14. Refit the fan assembly if you removed them in step 1. Don't forget the fan connector! 15. Open the bleeder screw under the engine cover (if applicable, depends on model). Using an old hose or similar shoved into the radiator filler to raise the height above the bleeder screw, top up the coolant. When coolant flows out of the bleeder and doesn't show any bubbles close the bleeder and bung the radiator cap back on. 16. Start the car, warm it up with the heater on (to bleed any air out) until the top radiator hose is hot to touch. Check for leaks. 17. When it has cooled down again recheck the coolant level in the radiator. Don't attempt this with the engine hot unless you're extremely careful, at normal operating temperature the coolant in the V6 is 104 degrees C!
That's pretty much it I think.
Arnie - 23 Feb 2006 06:08 GMT > > The bearing in my vs water pump is cactus and I don't want to fork out > > 230 to 250 for someone else to do it. Firstly is it a hard job and will > > it take an amateur hours and does anyone know someone who can supply > > and fit cheaper in W.A south of river. I have changed dozens of commo V6 water pumps and I can say that's very good instructions there by clocky. Important points to note there: loosen pulley bolts before removing belt otherwise its very hard without a rattle gun as the pulley will rotate as you try to undo the bolts. careful not to overtighten the smaller bolts on the water pump, they can snap easily, I know coz I've done that more than once :( The slowest bit is cleaning off the old gasket bits, if it wasn't for that, you could change it in less than 10mins. On my own cars, I don't bother with the paper gasket, I just apply gasket goo.
Shepo - 08 Mar 2006 06:59 GMT Thanks very much clocky. I have replaced water pumps on older cars but never on the v6 one belt jobbies. It seems pretty straight forward.
Shepo - 09 Mar 2006 03:57 GMT The pump cost $140 from Repco GMB Brand so it was more expensive than others that I priced. Job done in 2 hours 10 minutes woe to go and that included about half an hour looking for tools. Thanks very much for your help.
atec77 - 09 Mar 2006 05:34 GMT > The pump cost $140 from Repco GMB Brand so it was more expensive than > others that I priced. Job done in 2 hours 10 minutes woe to go and that > included about half an hour looking for tools. Thanks very much for > your help. Thats actually what the group is for , although it usually doesn't look that way , a couple of others continue to be arseholes :)
Noddy - 09 Mar 2006 11:14 GMT > Thats actually what the group is for , although it usually doesn't look > that way , a couple of others continue to be arseholes :) So, that'd be you and who else? :)
-- Regards, Noddy.
Aussie - 24 Feb 2006 11:55 GMT > The bearing in my vs water pump is cactus and I don't want to fork out > 230 to 250 for someone else to do it. Firstly is it a hard job and will > it take an amateur hours and does anyone know someone who can supply > and fit cheaper in W.A south of river. Go to supercheap/repco/autobarn......anywhere shouldnt pay more than $70-80 for it,then pop the bonnet up do it your self...Be usefull for a change..Takes no more then 1/2 hour.
|
|
|