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Car Forum / Australian Car Forums / General Car Topics (Australian group) / October 2006Oil treatment and additives
An excellent article (too long to quote here) on oil treatment products and additives... http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/misc/OilTreatment.html  Signaturea9x5l >An excellent article (too long to quote here) on oil treatment products >and additives... > >http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/misc/OilTreatment.html Yep, Pity they didn't test this one http://www.lubysil.com/us/index.htm I've used it for many years in both road and race engines and been very happy with the results. No longer available in Oz so I bring a box in every few years from the US. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Yep, > Pity they didn't test this one > http://www.lubysil.com/us/index.htm Luckily for you, as it would most likely have returned the same "snake oil" result as all the rest :) > I've used it for many years in both road and race engines and been > very happy with the results. Just out of curiosity Oz, how do you know it made the slightest bit of difference? The *only* way to test the effectiveness of such products is to do comparative tests in controlled environments where the only difference is the product itself, thereby allowing the effects of the product, if any, to be detirmined. You and I don't need to go to these extremes, as many companies who are in a better position to do so have done already, and the results of such tests pretty much tell the same "they don't do sh.t" story. > No longer available in Oz so I bring a box in every few years from the > US. Ignorance is bliss Oz, which is why snake oil companies make money. -- Regards, Noddy. >The *only* way to test the effectiveness of such products is to do >comparative tests in controlled environments where the only difference is >the product itself, Yes, you are correct. >Ignorance is bliss Oz, In your case that's very apparent. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. >>An excellent article (too long to quote here) on oil treatment products >>and additives... [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. Um , check for Powerup. Its a Canadian product from memory. They don't sell it here but they do in NZ. I bring it in myself for all sorts of jobs. On the first time we used it, it actually dropped the gearbox loaded running temp by around 10 degrees (Truck gearbox not car, yet to try in the 4x4 transfer case and box). I was VERY sceptical of it at first but now we use on a wide variety of applications. The product demo is quite impressive. >>>An excellent article (too long to quote here) on oil treatment products >>>and additives... [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > >The product demo is quite impressive. Look out......Here comes Noddy with an opinion :-) Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Look out......Here comes Noddy with an opinion :-) Yeah, here it is: "It's crap". Just like every other similar type of product in the f.cking entire world is crap. Automotive "additives" are designed my marketing guru's for the sole purpose of fleecing ignorant motorists. The fact that there's never been a single one that's been proved to do anything other than boost the user's confidence is completely irrelevant :) -- Regards, Noddy. >> Look out......Here comes Noddy with an opinion :-) > >Yeah, here it is: "It's crap". Just like every other similar type of product >in the f.cking entire world is crap. Yep...maybe you should go back to the oils produced in the 30's for your Jeep. >Automotive "additives" are designed my marketing guru's for the sole purpose >of fleecing ignorant motorists. The fact that there's never been a single >one that's been proved to do anything other than boost the user's confidence >is completely irrelevant :) Yep, the oil companies put additives into oils to make them perform better......are you implying that they always give you the ultimate in oil......unlike any other company where the product is produced to a cost? Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Yep...maybe you should go back to the oils produced in the 30's for > your Jeep. Where can I get some? > Yep, the oil companies put additives into oils to make them perform > better...... Not entirely. Oil companies make "base mixes" which they then "blend" to create different types of products from the same common base. Like mixing paint if you will. > are you implying that they always give you the ultimate in > oil......unlike any other company where the product is produced to a > cost? Nope. What I'm saying is that oil additives make f.ck all difference to any engine's wear rates/performance/fuel economy or whatever *other* claim the additive manufacturers would like to make over and above the oil you're already using. None. Nada. Zip. -- Regards, Noddy. >Oil companies make "base mixes" which they then "blend" to create different >types of products from the same common base. Like mixing paint if you will. Yep, it's the tint tat makes the difference.... >> are you implying that they always give you the ultimate in >> oil......unlike any other company where the product is produced to a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >additive manufacturers would like to make over and above the oil you're >already using. Like I said, oil manufacterers have been using additives for ages. >None. Nada. Zip. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Like I said, oil manufacterers have been using additives for ages. Over base oils, sure. It's called "blending" Oz, like I mentioned. The point being that until such time as someone points me towards a reliable scientific test that shows an oil additive (or any other type for that matter) makes a poofteenth of difference over and above what regular oil (or fuel) gives you, I'll continue to believe that they're snake oil. -- Regards, Noddy. >> Like I said, oil manufacterers have been using additives for ages. > >Over base oils, sure. It's called "blending" Oz, like I mentioned. Yep, blending additives or oil with additives, just as you say. >The point being that until such time as someone points me towards a reliable >scientific test that shows an oil additive (or any other type for that >matter) makes a poofteenth of difference over and above what regular oil (or >fuel) gives you, I'll continue to believe that they're snake oil. I'm sure you will. Now for synthetic oil....are you a believer or do you like me, think that they're a waste of money and overkill for most if not all road engines. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > I'm sure you will. > Now for synthetic oil....are you a believer or do you like me, think > that they're a waste of money and overkill for most if not all road > engines. I think synthetic oils have advantages over mineral based oils in that they can provide extra protection in *very* extreme applications, but those applications would probably never be seen by 99% of all vehicles (including dedicated racing cars). In short, like oil additives, synthetic oil makes f.ck all difference. -- Regards, Noddy. >> I'm sure you will. >> Now for synthetic oil....are you a believer or do you like me, think [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >In short, like oil additives, synthetic oil makes f.ck all difference. I use synthetic in the EVO, more because of the high temps in the turbo than anything else. I have no idea what's in the transmission but I have a feeling it's all synthetic. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. >>> I'm sure you will. >>> Now for synthetic oil....are you a believer or do you like me, think [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > I use synthetic in the EVO, more because of the high temps in the > turbo than anything else. Is synthetic specified by Mitsubishi for the EVO? AFAIK its specified by Subaru for our Impreza. Daryl >Is synthetic specified by Mitsubishi for the EVO? Yep, I checked, synthetic everything.... >AFAIK its specified by Subaru for our Impreza. > >Daryl Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. >> Like I said, oil manufacterers have been using additives for ages. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Regards, > Noddy. My mechanic has always been putting additives (petrol and oil) in at service time. He's a very thorough mechanic, checking hoses, brakes, chassis bolts, belts, etc, at every service but I've become concerned about the $10+ at every service for additives, so I told him not to use them in the wife's GTI and my Megane. Previous cars have been very reliable, particularly the Astra which ran like new even after 180k kms, so if the Megane and GTI are doing as well after similar kays, I'll know that the additives were a waste of money. SignatureBen Lyric of the week: "So all you fly mothers, get on out there and dance. Dance I said!" > My mechanic has always been putting additives (petrol and oil) in at > service time. He's a very thorough mechanic, checking hoses, brakes, > chassis bolts, belts, etc, at every service but I've become concerned > about the $10+ at every service for additives, so I told him not to use > them in the wife's GTI and my Megane. Smart move its $10+ you can spend on something else. SignatureRegards Dan >My mechanic has always been putting additives (petrol and oil) in at >service time. He's a very thorough mechanic, checking hoses, brakes, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >so if the Megane and GTI are doing as well after similar kays, I'll know >that the additives were a waste of money. You will? I'd expect any modern car to run like new after a meagre 180,000k. My Triton has wel over 400,000 and still runs like new. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. >My mechanic has always been putting additives (petrol and oil) in at >service time. He's a very thorough mechanic, checking hoses, brakes, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >so if the Megane and GTI are doing as well after similar kays, I'll know >that the additives were a waste of money. You might also care to read the fine print in the manufacturer's warranty. Most can void it if oil or fuel additives have been used, and I know of at least one instance where it's happened. Doesn't seem to stop my local Holden dealer from selling Slick 50 though (which is proven snake oil). SignatureJohn H >>My mechanic has always been putting additives (petrol and oil) in at >>service time. He's a very thorough mechanic, checking hoses, brakes, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >Doesn't seem to stop my local Holden dealer from selling Slick 50 >though (which is proven snake oil). http://skepdic.com/comments/slickcom.html Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > http://skepdic.com/comments/slickcom.html sh.t, it's on the internet, so it *must* be true. If there ever come a day when *any* reputable source did a genuine arms length test of additives and found there was a benefit of any kind, then I *might* be inclined to think twice about them. Until that day, I'll use regular engine oil and not worry about anything. -- Regards, Noddy. >> http://skepdic.com/comments/slickcom.html > >sh.t, it's on the internet, so it *must* be true. Just another point of view....not mine I might add. >If there ever come a day when *any* reputable source did a genuine arms >length test of additives and found there was a benefit of any kind, then I >*might* be inclined to think twice about them. Until that day, I'll use >regular engine oil and not worry about anything. Good for you..regular engine oil with all its additives should work OK. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Good for you..regular engine oil with all its additives should work > OK. Yeah, that's right Oz. The ones that are *known* to actually do something :) -- Regards, Noddy. >> Good for you..regular engine oil with all its additives should work >> OK. > >Yeah, that's right Oz. The ones that are *known* to actually do something :) Hmmm OK, and more doesn't make it better, considering of course that oils are blended to a price... Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Hmmm OK, and more doesn't make it better, considering of course that > oils are blended to a price... Feel free to post the indisputable documented evidence Oz :) -- Regards, Noddy. >> Hmmm OK, and more doesn't make it better, considering of course that >> oils are blended to a price... > >Feel free to post the indisputable documented evidence Oz :) Indisputable evidence of what? You mean that say the addition of friction modifiers by oil companies then addition of extra by the consumer will make no difference? Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Indisputable evidence of what? You know exactly what, which is precisely why you avoided it :) > You mean that say the addition of friction modifiers by oil companies > then addition of extra by the consumer will make no difference? I mean using any third party oil additive with engine oil will make any difference compared to just the oil on it's own. -- Regards, Noddy. >> Indisputable evidence of what? > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >I mean using any third party oil additive with engine oil will make any >difference compared to just the oil on it's own. Who knows. My Lubysil worked both on the dyno and probably saved at least one engine on the track.... Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Who knows. > My Lubysil worked both on the dyno and probably saved at least one > engine on the track.... How much difference did it make on the dyno, and how many runs did you do? -- Regards, Noddy. >> Who knows. >> My Lubysil worked both on the dyno and probably saved at least one >> engine on the track.... > >How much difference did it make on the dyno, and how many runs did you do? We run up engines ith a nice safe tune till we saw temps stabilise, drain, refil and change plugs. Run up again any number of times until we were confident that tune was right then add the Lubysil. We always got increases in power output of about 5-6%. Yes, I know it sounds like a lot but the results were consistent. Chassis dynos showed slightly better results when Lubysil was added to transmissions as well. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > We always got increases in power output of about 5-6%. Yes, I know it > sounds like a lot but the results were consistent. Same plugs? What was the error margin of the dyno? :) -- Regards, Noddy. >> We always got increases in power output of about 5-6%. Yes, I know it >> sounds like a lot but the results were consistent. > >Same plugs? Yep, after initial runups. >What was the error margin of the dyno? :) Engine dyno....accurate. Thing is Nod it wasn't just one engine, there were quite a few and every time the Lubysil was put into a new engine it recorde a HP improvement....except for one which tore the collets out of a valve at around 9000rpm.... Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. On Wed, 04 Oct 2006 08:31:49 +1000, wrote: >>> We always got increases in power output of about 5-6%. Yes, I know it >>> sounds like a lot but the results were consistent. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > improvement....except for one which tore the collets out of a valve at > around 9000rpm.... You see.. if the money was spent on decent collets instead of snake oil, that would never have happened ;-) Signaturea9x5l > You see.. if the money was spent on decent collets instead of snake oil, > that would never have happened ;-) Lol :) -- Regards, Noddy. > Engine dyno....accurate. They all have error margins Oz, and I've never seen one that doesn't. > Thing is Nod it wasn't just one engine, there were quite a few and > every time the Lubysil was put into a new engine it recorde a HP > improvement....except for one which tore the collets out of a valve at > around 9000rpm.... Nice. No offence Oz, but I'll stick with my beliefs. Perhaps if you tried the same thing with a number of different oils (without the additive) you'd have got the same result. I've seen that before a few times. -- Regards, Noddy. >> Engine dyno....accurate. > >They all have error margins Oz, and I've never seen one that doesn't. Of course....but you'd think that now and then we'd get a power drop with the Lubysil or at least no change if error were to blame. >> Thing is Nod it wasn't just one engine, there were quite a few and >> every time the Lubysil was put into a new engine it recorde a HP >> improvement....except for one which tore the collets out of a valve at >> around 9000rpm.... > >Nice. No, not nice...a 970 Cooper S mill putting out 113BHP IIRC, quite a step up from its std 76. >No offence Oz, but I'll stick with my beliefs. Perhaps if you tried the same >thing with a number of different oils (without the additive) you'd have got >the same result. Maybe, never tried it with synthetics, just mineral, and vege oils....interestngly we found diesel oils performed better >I've seen that before a few times. Yep, quite common to try different oils. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. >http://skepdic.com/comments/slickcom.html Try.... http://search.ftc.gov/query.html?qt=slick+50&submit=GO SignatureJohn H >>http://skepdic.com/comments/slickcom.html > >Try.... >http://search.ftc.gov/query.html?qt=slick+50&submit=GO Are they all the ones about deceptive advertising? Where Slick 50/ quaker State made ridiculous claims about reducing engine wear by 50% etc etc. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. >>Try.... >>http://search.ftc.gov/query.html?qt=slick+50&submit=GO > >Are they all the ones about deceptive advertising? Unsubstantiated claims actually... the usual definition of snake oil. >Where Slick 50/ quaker State made ridiculous claims about reducing >engine wear by 50% etc etc. They even managed to upset the US Fair Trade Commission, who seem to have had an ongoing problem with Slick 50 dating back a decade or so. On the legal side of things the FTC were well and truly ahead last time I checked. Furthermore they (Slick 50), along with numerous other snake oilers, are still making the very same claims here that got them into trouble in the US. There's also the other matter of Slick 50's problems with DuPont, who manufacture the vital ingredient. No doubt a quick googling would uncover those details as well. SignatureJohn H >>>Try.... >>>http://search.ftc.gov/query.html?qt=slick+50&submit=GO [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >other snake oilers, are still making the very same claims here that >got them into trouble in the US. Yep, if they dropped the crazy claims. then ther is enough evidence to support a "may" claim at least. >There's also the other matter of Slick 50's problems with DuPont, who >manufacture the vital ingredient. No doubt a quick googling would >uncover those details as well. Ah yeah...that was yonks ago if it's the one I recall. Something about Dupont refusing to supply and Quaker winning a case re restrictive trading or some such. Correct me if I'm wrong.. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Yep, if they dropped the crazy claims. then ther is enough evidence to > support a "may" claim at least. Which is a bit like saying that if you jump off a tall building whilst flapping your arms like crazy, you *may* just generate enough lift to avoid killing yourself. -- Regards, Noddy. >> Yep, if they dropped the crazy claims. then ther is enough evidence to >> support a "may" claim at least. > >Which is a bit like saying that if you jump off a tall building whilst >flapping your arms like crazy, you *may* just generate enough lift to avoid >killing yourself. Maybe. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > My mechanic has always been putting additives (petrol and oil) in at > service time. He's a very thorough mechanic, checking hoses, brakes, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > so if the Megane and GTI are doing as well after similar kays, I'll know > that the additives were a waste of money. I know that already :) "Additives" of any variety are a huge money spinner for service agents, be they dealer or private. They generally buy them in bulk at a discount rate, and off load them to the customer at a sometimes 500% mark-up. They know they won't do any damage (or any good), other than make the customer feel like they're getting that extra little bit of insurance, while giving them a handy little "tip" with every service. -- Regards, Noddy. > The point being that until such time as someone points me towards a > reliable scientific test that shows an oil additive (or any other type for > that matter) makes a poofteenth of difference over and above what regular > oil (or fuel) gives you, I'll continue to believe that they're snake oil. Whats your thought on Castrol Magnatec I personally refuse to use it at all. I rather use a good quality mineral or synthetic oil in my cars. -- Regards Dan >> The point being that until such time as someone points me towards a >> reliable scientific test that shows an oil additive (or any other type for [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Whats your thought on Castrol Magnatec I personally refuse to use it at all. >I rather use a good quality mineral or synthetic oil in my cars. I had a 'feel' of some the other day....gluey to touch, I'd be reluctant to use it in my cars. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Whats your thought on Castrol Magnatec I personally refuse to use it at > all. I rather use a good quality mineral or synthetic oil in my cars. I've never used it, or even bothered to look closely at it, so I can't tell you much about it in particular. However, what I *can* tell you is that the best thing you can do to any engine is give it clean oil, clean fuel and clean water on a regular basis, and if you do that it will last a very long time. I personally don't use any kind of synthetic or additives, and have never seen any evidence where a good old mineral oil has been lacking if it was changed at regular intervals. Oh, wait, I tell a lie. I used a semi-synthetic for a while, being Penrite HPR-15, but only because I couldn't easily get that viscosity in a mineral. -- Regards, Noddy. > However, what I *can* tell you is that the best thing you can do to any > engine is give it clean oil, clean fuel and clean water on a regular > basis, and if you do that it will last a very long time. I personally > don't use any kind of synthetic or additives, and have never seen any > evidence where a good old mineral oil has been lacking if it was changed > at regular intervals. Yeah unfortuantly there is so many types of oil out there it aint funny. > Oh, wait, I tell a lie. > > I used a semi-synthetic for a while, being Penrite HPR-15, but only > because I couldn't easily get that viscosity in a mineral. Fair enough. :-) SignatureRegards Dan > Whats your thought on Castrol Magnatec I personally refuse to > use it at all. I rather use a good quality mineral or > synthetic oil in my cars. The "clingy" part is an ester. These are polar molecules. One end has a slight positive charge, and the other is negative. Esters do cling to metals, reducing potential wear from dry starts after an engine has been standing. They're also the only lubricants good enough for jet engines. Overkill for cars, I know. There's debate about whether there's enough ester in Magnatec to be useful. For one thing, esters are expensive and Magnatec isn't. I personally use Motul 8100 E-tech 0W40 fully synthetic ester-based oil, and I pay $85 or more for 5 litres. Mobil-1 0W40 (not 5W50) once contained esters when it was promoted as a tri-synthetic. The talk now is that the ester has gone from it for cost reasons. John Dan wrote: >> The point being that until such time as someone points me towards a >> reliable scientific test that shows an oil additive (or any other type for >> that matter) makes a poofteenth of difference over and above what regular >> oil (or fuel) gives you, I'll continue to believe that they're snake oil. >Whats your thought on Castrol Magnatec I personally refuse to use it at all. >I rather use a good quality mineral or synthetic oil in my cars. >-- >Regards >Dan Been using Magnatec in Subarus since about when it was released. Seemed to help with cold running in Orange winters and no complaints otherwise in about 250,000km over two cars. 2 of the three Sube dealers I've been to use it as the specified oil & the other one did until the chain they're part of changed brands a couple of years ago. Cheers > > Yep...maybe you should go back to the oils produced in the 30's for > > your Jeep. > > Where can I get some? Penrite still do single grade (eg: SAE30, SAE50 etc.) oils for classics and vintage cars. For a 1930's vehicle, probably one of their "Shelsley" range would be ideal. Available at any Autobarn - most won't stock it, of course, but they can order it in. Or visit me at the Frankston store. :) Cheers, Steve A few years back I bought a Susuki Sierra with about 160,000k on it. When I bought it, it used just under a half a litre of oil in 10,000K. Not enough to warrant a top-up between changes. A retired mechanic mate told me about this stuff he was using, and offered me a bottle. I did not really expect it to make a damn bit of difference to anything, as over the years I had tried a few and read about a few, nothing worked for me. I didn't notice anything at the next oil change, but at the second one I noticed that the oil level had not dropped. It never ever lost oil between changes again. I sold it at 270,000k. My next vehicle was an old ex mining company Hilux 2.8 Diesel 4X4. It had 245,000K on it and did the same thing...lost about a litre between changes.(5,000K) It did need a top-up in between changes. I kept records of fuel usage and I was getting 8.8 to 9.2 k's per litre. Not un-reasonable for an old 2.8D At 260,000k I started to use this stuff in the motor, gearbox, transfer case and rear diff. As before there was little or no difference in the oil usage and fuel consumption. At the halfway point between the 265 and 270,000k change I went to top up and bugger me, it had not dropped. I had also noticed a reduction in exhaust smoke under acceleration, and I was getting 9.8 to 10.3 K's per litre. It has over 360,000k on it now and it still does just over 10K's per litre and never requires a top-up between changes. I use it in everything now. The wifes Camry, the Kubota tractor motor and hydrastatic trans. The Kubota trans was quite noisy until the stuff had been in for about 30 hours. Its not bad now, not perfect but not bad. The wifes Camry had a noisey power steering pump a year or so ago, so I chucked some in and eventually it went quite again. Took about 3 months. Was it the stuff or something else? Who knows. I am not going to draw any conclusions or say much about it other than the above, and that the fuel saving alone is more than the cost of the product. Phill. >>>An excellent article (too long to quote here) on oil treatment products >>>and additives... [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > >The product demo is quite impressive. >A few years back I bought a Susuki Sierra with about 160,000k on it. > When I bought it, it used just under a half a litre of oil in > 10,000K. > Not enough to warrant a top-up between changes. (large snip) What was the product? It is Metal Based Lubricant (MBL) distributed by Promar. They make other additives for fuel etc. of which I have no experience. >>A few years back I bought a Susuki Sierra with about 160,000k on it. >> When I bought it, it used just under a half a litre of oil in [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >What was the product? >Um , check for Powerup. Its a Canadian product from memory. They don't sell >it here but they do in NZ. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >The product demo is quite impressive. Thanks Scotty. Might be easier to get from NZ than the US. Never seen a demo, but results on an engine dyno a number of times were sufficient for me to see genuine benefit in HP numbers and being able to complete a race at Oran Park and still hold 2nd place with a broken oil pump drive backed that up. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Thanks Scotty. > Might be easier to get from NZ than the US. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. And for what application? Gearbox/engine/transfer/Grease? The grease is great stuff, fricken expensive, around $30 for a tube but its in all my drive shafts and Unis in the 4x4. No problems yet. >> Thanks Scotty. >> Might be easier to get from NZ than the US. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >The grease is great stuff, fricken expensive, around $30 for a tube but its >in all my drive shafts and Unis in the 4x4. No problems yet. Never used the greases...maybe worth a look. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. > Um , check for Powerup. Its a Canadian product from memory. They don't > sell it here but they do in NZ. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > transfer case and box). I was VERY sceptical of it at first but now we > use on a wide variety of applications. Powerup was marketed here a few years ago on infomercials. I believe that it contained chlorine. If it is true that it contained chlorine (which is slippery and corrosive) then you would probably get the same 'benefit' a lot cheaper by adding few mls of bleach to your engine oil. :) > Powerup was marketed here a few years ago on infomercials. I > believe that it contained chlorine. If it is true that it > contained chlorine (which is slippery and corrosive) then you > would probably get the same 'benefit' a lot cheaper by adding > few mls of bleach to your engine oil. :) The "lead scavengers" required in leaded petrol were at least as aggressive, and some depended on being converted into hydrochloric acid during combustion IIRC. John >Powerup was marketed here a few years ago on infomercials. I believe that >it contained chlorine. If it is true that it contained chlorine (which is >slippery and corrosive) then you would probably get the same 'benefit' a >lot cheaper by adding few mls of bleach to your engine oil. :) "believe, if,probably" You make a very persuasive argument...... Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. mf1@project1221.com中华人民共和国<המוסד למודיעין ולתפקידים מיוחדיםPT-141& P2 Member - 03 Oct 2006 00:57 GMT > An excellent article (too long to quote here) on oil treatment products > and additives... > > http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/misc/OilTreatment.html Not a big fan of additives, but i must say that my Falcon [like Elvis, leaves the building tommorow...sorrow] started to blow blue smoke sometimes on take off.Not when engine started though, just on take-off from lights and stop signs when , which was embaressment for me. Anyway the main reason for this was i was running a 5w-30 oil to get maximum fuel economy but the EPA would have had me so i had to change that. Went to a 25w-60 5L with 2 bottles [600ml] from kmart of "stop-smoke" and yeah it fixed the problem dead. On cold mornings she use to knock and carry on for about 10s till it started to pump around and lube but other than that yeah, cured the problem Alas, no longer my problem ;-) OUT! > An excellent article (too long to quote here) on oil treatment products > and additives... I simply use an above spec dino oil for me engine and have for a very long time now (don't even think the original CD spec is still available now) - it still works like new after 16 years. Oil treatment products are not required, or is the person trying to bodge up something that is broken? I fairly expect the folk who produce engine oil do it very specifically, and if your engine does not work with the correct choice, it is prolly broken and needs looked at. |
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