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Car Forum / Australian Car Forums / General Car Topics (Australian group) / April 200795 Navara DX V6
Hey can anyone tell me what engine is in this vehicle it is a 95 DX single cab ute with SOHC V6 efi,engine model number? Am sure it is a 3.0 or 3.5l no less. I just pulled one down it is built tuff,I recon these engines could really go,all be it I am not the first to possibly consider this,It looks like a tiger hiding under a sheep skin For those in the know,what sort of remap can be done on this engine if any? >Hey can anyone tell me what engine is in this vehicle it is a 95 DX >single cab ute with SOHC V6 efi,engine model number? VG30E (3 litre).  SignatureJohn H > >Hey can anyone tell me what engine is in this vehicle it is a 95 DX > >single cab ute with SOHC V6 efi,engine model number? > > VG30E (3 litre). The VG-series also appeared in the 300ZX, didn't it? VG30DE and VG30DETT if I'm not wrong. Marco >>> Hey can anyone tell me what engine is in this vehicle it is a 95 DX >>> single cab ute with SOHC V6 efi,engine model number? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Marco 1st generation 300zx (1984-89) had the VG30E and the VG30ET (turbo) 2nd Generation 300z (1989-199?) had the VG30DE (dohc, 24 valve)and VG30DETT (with twin turbos) The VG30E.. I've never heard of anyone doing much with this engine, it is very similar to the VL Commodore RB30E in terms of power & torque. Likewise the VG30ET is very similar to the RB30ET. (Probably why Nissan went broke, they were building two entirely different ranges of six cylinder engines, one V6 and one L6, that were functionally identical.) Like the turbo commode RB30ET, the VG30ET is dead easy to get 200 kW out of, and reasonably easy to get 300kW out of if you start upgrading turbos and adding aftercoolers etc. Also, like the RB30ET, now that the twin cam, twin turbo motors are available, why would you bother? (Though the VG30DETT engine has a rep for poor reliability compared to the RB25 and RB26. Part of the problem may well be the attrocious airflow in the 300zx, and in the Navara you may do better.) > Likewise the VG30ET is very similar to the RB30ET. (Probably why Nissan > went broke, they were building two entirely different ranges of six > cylinder engines, one V6 and one L6, that were functionally identical.) Nissan in particular was good at this sort of thing - witness also the way that until very recently, they built both the Sunny and the Pulsar in the small car market, and the Bluebird and Primera in the medium segment. Having seen them side by side in NZ recently, while they look a bit different, they are very similar cars to each other and it's not at all clear why they needed two totally different products in the same segments. For that matter, why build both the Maxima and the Skyline? Mazda was another company with this sort of muddled approach, with its 1.8 and 2.0 litre V6 engines being sold alongside 1.8 and 2.0 litre fours. IMHO, as I've said here before, Nissan peaked in the early 1990s with the cars that came out of Project 901 like the Z32 300ZX, R32 Skyline and N14 Pulsar. The rot set in in the mid-90s when the money started running out, and the only decent product they build today IMHO is the 350Z. Marco >> Likewise the VG30ET is very similar to the RB30ET. (Probably why Nissan >> went broke, they were building two entirely different ranges of six [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Marco A friend of mine got a new R35 Skyline and claims it's very good. Better than his old R33 model, and just as fast even though the old one was running 200 kW at the wheels. Of course the Skyline shares a lot of 350Z mechanicals. (And naturally is not for sale new out in the colonies, the damn convicts will take a FWD maxima and be grateful!) >>> Likewise the VG30ET is very similar to the RB30ET. (Probably why Nissan >>> went broke, they were building two entirely different ranges of six [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > is not for sale new out in the colonies, the damn convicts will take a > FWD maxima and be grateful!) Arhh yeah thanks found out this morning it was a VG30E and directly related to 300zx and fairlady,did not laugh as these are known to hold more than 1000hp on the block. Thought I was looking at a slightly detuned race car engine,not an old crappy ute. > Thought I was looking at a slightly detuned race car engine,not an > old crappy ute. I'm currently driving a D21 dual cab auto with a VG30 - let me tell you it climbs hills very nicely, which just happens to be why i bought it as I drive the Maleny <> Landsborough road twice a day, and after driving a Liberty for 2 months i was not looking forward to punting something gutless up that hill. Now. All I need is for someone to tell me if there are any hidden "tricks" in doing the timing belt - quoted $156 for the belt kit, which I think is a bit high and $500 for the whole job. Unless there is some hidden trick that only mechanics that work on them know I cannot fathom why the quote should be so high. There is more than enough room to get to the front of the engine without pulling the radiator, things like the alternator and P/S pump belts look straight forward and after they have gone it looks like a clear shot at the covers over the timing belt... I may have missed something - I'll know for sure when the Factory CDs arrive, but $500 to do the belts on it looks a bit rich to me. As it would represent almost what I paid for the thing, I may well just take my chances on it and not bother, if it goes bang - too bad.... -- > Now. All I need is for someone to tell me if there are any hidden > "tricks" in doing the timing belt - quoted $156 for the belt kit, which > I think is a bit high and $500 for the whole job. Unless there is some > hidden trick that only mechanics that work on them know I cannot fathom > why the quote should be so high. Because it's a rort :) Timing belts are rapidly becoming one of those necessary fixes that everyone thinks are complicated, and the prices are reflecting accordingly. IN your case, it's relatively simple compared to the same engine in a Maxima for example, which is east-west mounted, and a lot more difficult to access. > I may have missed something - I'll know for sure when the Factory CDs > arrive, but $500 to do the belts on it looks a bit rich to me. What, you don't think 250 bucks an hour is fairly good money for mechancial services? :) -- Regards, Noddy. > Because it's a rort :) > > Timing belts are rapidly becoming one of those necessary fixes that everyone > thinks are complicated, and the prices are reflecting accordingly. IN your > case, it's relatively simple compared to the same engine in a Maxima for > example, which is east-west mounted, and a lot more difficult to access. I am glad that I like to stick to chain driven camshafts. :-) Replace them once in a blue moon. SignatureRegards Dan > > Because it's a rort :) > > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I am glad that I like to stick to chain driven camshafts. :-) > Replace them once in a blue moon. Yeah, and you can get special rego for such "veteran" vehicles too... -- > Yeah, and you can get special rego for such "veteran" vehicles too... So my Calais and Rodeo have chain driven cams makes them old? Would suit my HX Coupe more like it. SignatureRegards Dan >> Because it's a rort :) >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I am glad that I like to stick to chain driven camshafts. :-) > Replace them once in a blue moon. Unless it's an Astron powered Magna... >> I am glad that I like to stick to chain driven camshafts. :-) >> Replace them once in a blue moon. > > Unless it's an Astron powered Magna... It would be a freezing day in hell I would ever have to bother with one. :-) SignatureRegards Dan > What, you don't think 250 bucks an hour is fairly good money for > mechancial services? :) It is in fact what I charge for what I do. Now whilst I have nothing against hard working mechanics, they do not have anything like the overheads I do, nor frankly does their job expose them to the same degree of financial risk as mine. And I hasten to say that I don't for one moment think that a mechanic doesn't have overheads to meet, nor am I suggesting that they are not at some degree of risk in terms of liability for what they do. BUT. Find me a mechanic who has to pay $15k for neg insurance (and that without a claim), and still has to pay fidelity guarantee, malpractice insurance and run an entirely seperate accounting system to deal with money paid to him "on account" and then factor in the need to meet the wages of support staff directly from my own earnings and yes, i do think it a bit rich for a mechanic to be charging anything like $250ph. I probably will do the belt myself, simply because I can, and a few hours getting grease under the fingernails is good therapy (and a bit more personally rewarding than some of the crap I've been doing lately). -- > > Now. All I need is for someone to tell me if there are any hidden > > "tricks" in doing the timing belt - quoted $156 for the belt kit, which [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > What, you don't think 250 bucks an hour is fairly good money for mechancial > services? :) I was at the local cash convertors, selling my neighbours lawn mower for money for smack, when one of the guys that works there was talking to me. A repairman just returned a vacuum cleaner they had gotten fixed. the bill, for replacement of the on/off switch. $200. No kidding. they were f.cking pissed off, considering they probably pay $5 for the c.nts of things, but they actually used that one in the store.... I couldn't believe it, and after a brief discussion, I might be doing repairs for them in the future, if the need arises. $200 dollars. f.cking hell, did the vac cleaner have a female realdoll's head attachment or something? SignatureJohn McKenzie tosspam@aol.com abuse@yahoo.com abuse@hotmail.com abuse@earthlink.com abuse@aol.com vice.president@whitehouse.gov president@whitehouse.gov sweep.day@accc.gov.au uce@ftc.gov admin@loopback abuse@iprimus.com.au If you didn't know it was wrong,why did you cover it up? abuse@msn.com $USER@$HOST $LOGNAME@localhost -h1024@localhost root@mailloop.com abuse@federalpolice.gov.au fraudinfo@psinet.com abuse@cia.gov $USER@localhost abuse@sprint.com abuse@fbi.gov abuse@asio.gov.au $LOGIN@localhost > I was at the local cash convertors, selling my neighbours lawn mower for > money for smack, when one of the guys that works there was talking to [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > them in the future, if the need arises. $200 dollars. f.cking hell, did > the vac cleaner have a female realdoll's head attachment or something? The vacuum cleaner repairer is a crook, I used to fix my own companies vacuum cleaners but IMO its not worth the effort because repairs are generally cheap and guaranteed. I recently got a new motor fitted to a back pack plus the motor mounting was broken, total bill was $150.00, paying $200.00 to replace a simple switch is insane. Daryl > I was at the local cash convertors, selling my neighbours lawn mower for > money for smack, when one of the guys that works there was talking to [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > them in the future, if the need arises. $200 dollars. f.cking hell, did > the vac cleaner have a female realdoll's head attachment or something? When you look at what appliance repairmen charge, it makes you wonder why anyone would ever f.ck with cars for a living. -- Regards, Noddy. >> I was at the local cash convertors, selling my neighbours lawn mower for >> money for smack, when one of the guys that works there was talking to [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > When you look at what appliance repairmen charge, it makes you wonder why > anyone would ever f.ck with cars for a living. Interesting thought, since I'm well overqualified to do appliance repairs... I wonder though how they can justify sometimes charging as much if not more to repair an appliance then it's selling price new. >> > Now. All I need is for someone to tell me if there are any hidden >> > "tricks" in doing the timing belt - quoted $156 for the belt kit, which [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > them in the future, if the need arises. $200 dollars. f.cking hell, did > the vac cleaner have a female realdoll's head attachment or something? Heh, the part was probably $150 for the genuine item, and the repairer wasn't inventive enough to go down to Dick Smith to buy a switch that will do the job for $6. That is the trouble with the types of mechanics our current apprentice training scheme and society in general breeds too. They are simply parts changers that can't fix a damn thing by being a little inventive and creative. Nice little sideline for me though, repairing instrument clusters and switch assemblies etc for the used car department :-) > Heh, the part was probably $150 for the genuine item, and the repairer > wasn't inventive enough to go down to Dick Smith to buy a switch that will [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Nice little sideline for me though, repairing instrument clusters and switch > assemblies etc for the used car department :-) Had to have the indicator/Hazard unit replace in a Mack Quantum once typically they don't use the ols and trusted capacitor type unit, this thing was a solid state PCB mounted item, over $500 from Mack/Renault(if they even had one in Australia) the Auto lecky we used pulled it out and ordered the new one meanwhile he thought he's have a look see at this one as he'd never seen one before, couldn't see any burnt components so just for fun grabbed his soldering iron and tipped all the solder joints on the PRB then for a laugh plugged it back into it's mount in the truck Cost of repair $100 One way to spot someone like this is their repair shops the huge flash joint with 50 cars being repaired a day is not gonna be one of them Kev >> Heh, the part was probably $150 for the genuine item, and the repairer >> wasn't inventive enough to go down to Dick Smith to buy a switch that [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > the huge flash joint with 50 cars being repaired a day is not gonna be one > of them True, though we do that many ;-) This repair reminds me of the three Honda's I've had to resolder the dry-jointed relays on in order to keep them running. Saved each kid a good wad of money and kept me in bourbons for a bit. >>Now. All I need is for someone to tell me if there are any hidden >>"tricks" in doing the timing belt - quoted $156 for the belt kit, which [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > What, you don't think 250 bucks an hour is fairly good money for mechancial > services? :) Typical Nissan Toyota 1Hz takes less than an hour to change and you don't need to buy a geniwhine belt get a generic brand from Bursons etc and the idler bearings from your local friendly bearing outlet Kev > Typical Nissan > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > get a generic brand from Bursons etc and the idler bearings from your > local friendly bearing outlet I have searched the net (which is always fun because one may accidently discover porn) over the past few days and I have found the following:- A set of Cds containing images of the factory workshop manual - $12.00 all in and now winging their way from merry England. A brand new "Ro-drive" belt for the thing - a brand I've never heard of before, but which the internet assures me is a well known and respected brand in Europe - purchased on eBay from Sydney for $9 plus 7.90 postage. A very nice description, and some photos, of the job being done in a D21 "hardbody" (what they apparently call my dunger in the land of the not very free and the home of the not particularly brave). Apparently with a whole lot of things that I don't intend doing, like changing seals, fitting a new water pump and a new thermostat - the job should take about 2 hours. Again courtesy of eBay, a white and a yellow mitsubishi paint pen (not strictly necessary, but a paint pen does apparently make the job easier and besides I've always wanted one (or two)) - $10 all in. Having mentioned the name of the beast I feel compelled to point out that in the world of pen manufacture Mitsubishi enjoy both a reputation and dominance that their Australian car manufacturing sideline could only dream of. So, for an investment of around an hour of my time and $40 I have a set of instructions, a belt and (just in case) a factory manual, and some neato paint pens. Now all I need is some sucker to pay ME $500 to fit the bloody thing (or its cousins) on a regular basis and I'll take up spanner twirling as an occupation. -- >>> Now. All I need is for someone to tell me if there are any hidden >>> "tricks" in doing the timing belt - quoted $156 for the belt kit, which [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Kev I remember the 1st day I drove to high skool , had a nearly and backed off for the rest of the term , some don't make it that far . (15 years 3 days at the time) |
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