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Car Forum / Australian Car Forums / General Car Topics (Australian group) / June 2007Jackaroo Clutch of Mystery
Today is the first time I drove it after my trailer-towing drag race adventures, so maybe I've hurt it. Not that I was giving it hell or anything, I was doing normal changes and just flooring it once everything was hooked up. Driving to Bathurst today, the friction point of the clutch got closer and closer to the floor as I was going up through the gears, and by the time I was in 5th the friction point was right off the floor. I checked the fluid level and it seemed fine (hydraulic clutch). The friction point stayed there for a good while, and as I was nearing Bathurst it went back to normal very quickly. But about halfway home it happened again and the friction point was right at the floor once more. Just then (about 4 hours after the drive) I had to cart some stuff around, and it's back to normal again. Next time it's getting driven will be to a mechanic who can get it up on a hoist and have a good look at things. Any ideas what this could be? >Driving to Bathurst today, the friction point of the clutch got closer >and closer to the floor as I was going up through the gears, and by >the time I was in 5th the friction point was right off the floor. Time to rebuild (or replace) the master cylinder... might as well do the slave while you're at it. Check with Repco or similar for the best/cheapest options as you can often buy buy new aftermarket cylinders for less than the cost of a repair kit.  SignatureJohn H Yep; you could rebuild yours for $30 or get a replacement for $100 or pay your mechanic $500+. SignatureKnob (Or you could just replace the two cups for about $2 ea!) >>Driving to Bathurst today, the friction point of the clutch got closer >>and closer to the floor as I was going up through the gears, and by [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > best/cheapest options as you can often buy buy new aftermarket > cylinders for less than the cost of a repair kit. > Time to rebuild (or replace) the master cylinder... might as well do > the slave while you're at it. Check with Repco or similar for the > best/cheapest options as you can often buy buy new aftermarket > cylinders for less than the cost of a repair kit. Was just about to post exactly that. Possibly air in the line but unlikey as its such a short run and woudlnt really come back like that. Are you loosing fluid? >> Time to rebuild (or replace) the master cylinder... might as well do >> the slave while you're at it. Check with Repco or similar for the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >Possibly air in the line but unlikey as its such a short run and woudlnt >really come back like that. Are you loosing fluid? Damo's seeing the classic symptoms of a failing primary seal in the master cylinder. Might be the cup, might be a pitted bore, or a combination of both. It won't lose fluid unless the secondary cup fails (or the slave cylinder). I'm not familiar with his model, but the cheapest option nowadays is often to replace the complete master cylinder with an aftermarket unit, particularly if the bore is pitted. Changover units are also an option on some models -- the advantage of these is that they will have been resleeved with stainless steel. SignatureJohn H > Damo's seeing the classic symptoms of a failing primary seal in the > master cylinder. Might be the cup, might be a pitted bore, or a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > option on some models -- the advantage of these is that they will have > been resleeved with stainless steel. Sounds like it's something I better get onto ASAP too. I'd rather just replace the whole thing in one hit as that's something I can do myself, rather than playing around rebuilding things, so yeah I think I'll go the aftermarket master cylinder route. Thanks for that :-) > Today is the first time I drove it after my trailer-towing drag race > adventures, so maybe I've hurt it. Not that I was giving it hell or [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Any ideas what this could be? FFS fix the 'lux :-) > FFS fix the 'lux :-) Unfortunately that project has been officially classified as "hobby". I now have two vehicles that can tow 2T up most hills at 90km/h or better and the Hilux still works as the go-anywhere farm tractor. "Diesel Damo" <Diesel_4WD@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message > Any ideas what this could be? Clutch hydraulics. Master cylinder in particular, but I'd do both the master & slave at the same time if it were my car. -- Regards, Noddy. > "Diesel Damo" <Diesel_4WD@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Regards, > Noddy. my BIL repaired the clutch and brakes on an old Ford Courier by putting stainless insert into all the cyls(drilled them out to so the bore size was the same) and using stainless pistons made them himself and didn't think they'd need replacing for a looong time Kev >> "Diesel Damo" <Diesel_4WD@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Kev I meant to ask how did the sale of the old chev go ? a suitable amount ? >>> "Diesel Damo" <Diesel_4WD@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message >>> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > I meant to ask how did the sale of the old chev go ? > a suitable amount ? this will take time lots of legal issues to sort out as would be expected when one dies and doesn't leave a Will Ex + kids and family etc. Kev > this will take time > lots of legal issues to sort out > as would be expected when one dies and doesn't leave a Will > Ex + kids and family etc. Probate. Now, there's a useful function that serves to make no one but lawyers well off. -- Regards, Noddy. >>>> "Diesel Damo" <Diesel_4WD@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message >>>> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Kev Damn shame , hopefully it will all out well . > my BIL repaired the clutch and brakes on an old Ford Courier by putting > stainless insert into all the cyls(drilled them out to so the bore size > was the same) and using stainless pistons > made them himself and didn't think they'd need replacing for a looong time Inserting slave & wheel cylinders has been going on for years and it works just fine if done properly, and that generally means the insert needs to be one piece. Some might think "why would you do it any other way", but some actually do. One of the problems of fitting a sleeve into a wheel cylinder is that the bleeder hole is sometimes in a difficult position to drill effectively (or hard to drill in the case of stainless sleeves with small drills), so people cheat and fit "split sleeves" leaving the original bleed hole uncovered. The sleeves are pushed in from each end leaving a gap in the middle that the piston doesn't run in, as opposed to a full length one piece sleeve that needs to be drilled for fluid holes. The problems associated with that are that the fluid pressure works against the back of the sleeve step, and can easily push one end or both of the split sleeves straight out of it's bore under a reasonable amount of pedal pressure resulting in no brakes in a real big hurry. -- Regards, Noddy. Noddy (nospam) blathered on in: >> my BIL repaired the clutch and brakes on an old Ford Courier by putting >> stainless insert into all the cyls(drilled them out to so the bore size [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > split sleeves straight out of it's bore under a reasonable amount of pedal > pressure resulting in no brakes in a real big hurry. Perhaps that's why many 'resleevers' do you the favour of assembling the cylinders;-) Been wondering about that for years. SignatureThink of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that - George Carlin. >>my BIL repaired the clutch and brakes on an old Ford Courier by putting >>stainless insert into all the cyls(drilled them out to so the bore size [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > split sleeves straight out of it's bore under a reasonable amount of pedal > pressure resulting in no brakes in a real big hurry. all one piece sleeves he had a lot of time in his hands and couldn't walk at the time Kev > "Diesel Damo" <Diesel_...@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message > > Any ideas what this could be? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Master cylinder in particular, but I'd do both the master & slave at the > same time if it were my car. Sounds like a good idea. I prefer preventative maintenance to breaking down 50km from anywhere with no phone service. >Sounds like a good idea. I prefer preventative maintenance to breaking >down 50km from anywhere with no phone service. 1) Turn off ignition. 2) Select 1st gear. 3) Start engine. 4) Drive 50k to the nearest telephone while practicing clutchless gearchanges. :)) SignatureJohn H >>Sounds like a good idea. I prefer preventative maintenance to breaking >>down 50km from anywhere with no phone service. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > 4) Drive 50k to the nearest telephone while practicing clutchless > gearchanges. :)) I remember having to do that (well about 30 kms anyway) in an old Comma Van. Fricken thing was bad enough doing changes WITH a working clutch. Going through town was a bastard and the starter motor clapped out 2kms from the office. Poor ole thing was red hot and had burnt out the windings. May not have been soooo bad if there wasnt four blokes and all our tools in it at the time. > >Sounds like a good idea. I prefer preventative maintenance to breaking > >down 50km from anywhere with no phone service. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > 4) Drive 50k to the nearest telephone while practicing clutchless > gearchanges. :)) LOL, well yes there is that. I've done it before in the Hilux, so I suppose there's no excuse for whimping out from doing it in the Jackaroo :-) >>> Sounds like a good idea. I prefer preventative maintenance to breaking >>> down 50km from anywhere with no phone service. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > suppose there's no excuse for whimping out from doing it in the > Jackaroo :-) Clurches are for stopping and starting , the rest of the time it's firmly planted on the rest . > Any ideas what this could be? Yeh , You should have bought a nissan patrol 4.2 turbo :) Boc > > Any ideas what this could be? > > Yeh , You should have bought a nissan patrol 4.2 turbo :) Show me one for 5 grand and I'll take it :-) |
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