Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Audi Cars / May 2009

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Do New Brake Pads Require a New Rotor

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
eBob.com - 06 May 2009 15:22 GMT
I new new pads for a front brake.  Is it necessary, or at least a real good
idea, to replace the rotor too?  The car has 80K miles on it.  I'd like to
save some $$s but having a safe car is a higher priority.

Thanks,  Bob
Steve Daniels - 06 May 2009 16:52 GMT
>     I new new pads for a front brake.  Is it necessary, or at least a real good
>     idea, to replace the rotor too?  The car has 80K miles on it.  I'd like to
>     save some $$s but having a safe car is a higher priority.

You should have them evaluated for thickness and runout.  If they
are within spec, or can be turned true, then go ahead and use
them.  If not, they need to be replaced.

Signature

Real men don't text.

Tom E - 06 May 2009 20:23 GMT
>I new new pads for a front brake.  Is it necessary, or at least a real good
>idea, to replace the rotor too?  The car has 80K miles on it.  I'd like to
>save some $$s but having a safe car is a higher priority.
>
> Thanks,  Bob

rotors are normally replaced when they reach a minimum thickness as
specified by the manufacturer. If they are worn with uneven surfaces, they
can be skimmed flat and parallel again but the costs to do this sometimes
outways replacing them with new ones. My A4 has covered 95k miles and its
still on the originals.
iws - 07 May 2009 04:00 GMT
|I new new pads for a front brake.  Is it necessary, or at least a real good
| idea, to replace the rotor too?  The car has 80K miles on it.  I'd like to
| save some $$s but having a safe car is a higher priority.
|
| Thanks,  Bob

My experience with Audis has been that there is rarely enough meat on the
rotor to machine it when the pads are worn out. You use the singular "brake"
but you should definitely replace both sides not just one. Front brakes
including rotors are a fairly easy DIY project. (Rears require a special
tool to get the pistons pushed back into the cylinders - some places like
Autozone will lend the tool for free.)

Front pads and rotors are available at a reasonable price online at places
like http://www.autohausaz.com/. If it's not DIY, an independent Audi
mechanic will charge about $500 for front pads and rotors - at least that's
what I was quoted. I did it myself in about 90 minutes including freeing a
stuck-on rotor. Rotors and Mintex pads cost about $160 total.
eBob.com - 07 May 2009 15:56 GMT
Thanks iws, and to the several other guys who have responded.

Why do you say that I "should definitely replace both sides".  It is a
safety issue?  Or just that the other side will probably have to be done
soon?  Or something else?

Thanks,  Bob

> |I new new pads for a front brake.  Is it necessary, or at least a real
> good
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> what I was quoted. I did it myself in about 90 minutes including freeing a
> stuck-on rotor. Rotors and Mintex pads cost about $160 total.
iws - 07 May 2009 16:43 GMT
| Thanks iws, and to the several other guys who have responded.
|
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
|
| Thanks,  Bob

Both. A new set of brand X pads on one side coupled with a used set of Brand
Y pads on the other is almost certainly going to yield uneven - and unsafe -
braking. Plus, almost certainly the other side will have to be done soon
too. If there was a significant difference in wear between both sides, you
probably would have noticed a "pulling" to one side or another - a condition
that would have to be investigated and fixed.  Also, in my experience, brake
pads always come as a complete set for right and left.

Front vs rear is a different story - fronts do more of the braking typically
and are sized and designed differently. So it's unlikely that you'd need to
do both front and rear brakes at the same time.
Ronny - 07 May 2009 22:36 GMT
> Thanks iws, and to the several other guys who have responded.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Thanks,  Bob

It takes a few hours to change the brakes max and that's working slowly,
just do it yourself.

The tool for the rear cost me about £12 the only problem you might have is
undoing the bolts that hold the disc in place, well it doesn't hold the disc
but holds the caliper but needs to be removed to get the disc out.

Set yourself a nice afternoon off :)

Make sure you do all 4 it's worth it in the long run.
Cannot believe people are still mentioning turning down discs, it costs
approx £120-£140 for 4 x discs and 4 x pads.

Servicing is the same, costs about £60 inc pollen filter and spark plugs.
Tom E - 08 May 2009 06:16 GMT
>> Thanks iws, and to the several other guys who have responded.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Servicing is the same, costs about £60 inc pollen filter and spark plugs.

its probably only tried by those with access to machines (me at one time).
An engineer will always try to use the tools if he has them. Anyway I can
confirm its a pain in the rump. Cast iron discs that have seen many years of
use, surface harden so you have to get under that skin, maybe 2mm or 3mm
before you can get a good cut going. This has to be done both sides so then
you are most probably going under the min thickness for the disc. Or if you
have the machine/adaptor, grinding is another option and only removes a
small amount of material.
k1e1v1i1n - 08 May 2009 17:27 GMT
new pads dont always need new rotors . u need to look at them or have
tech look at them and see how bad they are worn

--
k1e1v1i1
johngdole@hotmail.com - 11 May 2009 05:51 GMT
I recall reading something about the rotors have to last a certain
percentage longer than the pads in TUV (?) tests. Something like 25%.
Couldn't find it at the moment.

If that's the case it's best to check the amount of rotor wear during
this set of pads. And you need to make sure that within the next set
of pads the rotors will remain above the minimum allowed thickness.

But friends tend to be able to change rotors every other set of pads.

Does anyone know if these are ATE or Brembo setup?

> I new new pads for a front brake.  Is it necessary, or at least a real good
> idea, to replace the rotor too?  The car has 80K miles on it.  I'd like to
> save some $$s but having a safe car is a higher priority.
>
> Thanks,  Bob
Stokeng - 19 May 2009 06:08 GMT
> I new new pads for a front brake.  Is it necessary, or at least a real good
> idea, to replace the rotor too?  The car has 80K miles on it.  I'd like to
> save some $$s but having a safe car is a higher priority.
>
> Thanks,  Bob

i dont think you need a new rotor

____________________
http://www.stokeng.com
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.