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Car Forum / Audi Cars / May 2009

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Another stuck window on Audi A6

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nowhere@home.com - 25 Nov 2003 08:50 GMT
Hi,

A few weeks ago my RHS front window would open but would get stuck
about a third of the way back and then it would reopen fully.  I had
to push the window closed manually.  I took it to my local Audi dealer
and they said it was the seals and regulator and charged me £250!

Now (only a few weeks later) the LHS front window exhibits the same
fault!  I can't afford another £250 - can anyone tell me how to do
this job? (There's no Haines manual yet for the recent A6 AFAIK).

TIA, Mark
Tim Puffett - 25 Nov 2003 11:23 GMT
>Hi,
>
>A few weeks ago my RHS front window would open but would get stuck
>about a third of the way back and then it would reopen fully.  I had
>to push the window closed manually.  I took it to my local Audi dealer
>and they said it was the seals and regulator and charged me £250!

Oddly enough this is a known 'problem' on the TTs windows.  It's
supposed to have been fixed with a new motor containing updated
software.

Dunno if it's the same on the A6, how old is the car?

Signature

Tim Puffett

Wolfgang Pawlinetz - 25 Nov 2003 11:54 GMT
>Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>fault!  I can't afford another £250 - can anyone tell me how to do
>this job? (There's no Haines manual yet for the recent A6 AFAIK).

Argghl..

On my A6 it was just the plastic sliders on the rails which broke. A
few Euro in parts cost and 20 minutes labor from my Audi dealer. No
big deal. In your case I would really remove the trim of the door and
check if the plastic sliders grabbing the window and the rail are
broken. If they are broken, they just jam and don't allow the window
to fully close. The friction gets to high and the safety systems says
"Something is blocking the window - reopen".

A manual closure is usually possible (by pulling the window up by
hand) because you offload the jammed sliders, reducing the friction.

And one other thing: If those sliders are broken I would go back to
the dealer asking them to explain why they charged you that amount of
mones for such a little thing.

>TIA, Mark

Regards

Wolfgang
Signature

*                Audi A6 Avant TDI                 *
* reply to wolfgang dot pawlinetz at chello dot at *

nowhere@home.com - 25 Nov 2003 17:03 GMT
>On my A6 it was just the plastic sliders on the rails which broke. A
>few Euro in parts cost and 20 minutes labor from my Audi dealer. No
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>the dealer asking them to explain why they charged you that amount of
>mones for such a little thing.

Thanks for the reply.  Is there any trick to removing the trim?

Mark
Stu Hedith - 25 Nov 2003 19:45 GMT
>>On my A6 it was just the plastic sliders on the rails which broke. A
>>few Euro in parts cost and 20 minutes labor from my Audi dealer. No
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Mark

I believe there is a procedure for taking off the door panel on
audiworld.com, but if i recall, there is a small screw on either side of
the panel at the top.  I don't recall any other screws, but i would
check.  Once the screws are removed the panel lifts straight up off of
clips that secure it.  There will be electrical connectors and the door
handle mechinism preventing you from moving it very much.  If your
problem is the same as mine, you don't even need to pull the panel.
Look at the back edge, inside where the glass slides (you may need a
flashlight).  Look for a worn groove.  This was my problem.  The groove
allowed the glass to rotate toward the rear and act as a locking cam.
The motor would think something was caught and stop trying.  The window
would go up if i were pulling at the top of it toward the inside of the
car (or pushing from the outside).  This kept the glass out of the
groove that had worn.  An obvious problem for my fingers at the top.  I
used an excess length of 1-inch diameter "poly-pipe" used for lawn
irrigation systems and cut a ~3mm width (with a dremel rotary tool) long
enough to run a little bit more than the length of glass.  I set it into
the groove and it has stayed there about 6 months now by friction alone
and the window works fine.  The pipe i used was black and set deep
enough that it isn't even visible unless the window is down and you go
looking deep into the groove.  I hope this is your problem because the
fix is easy and more importantly CHEAP.

Stu
Wolfgang Pawlinetz - 25 Nov 2003 21:30 GMT
>Thanks for the reply.  Is there any trick to removing the trim?

OK, that could be a bit lengthy. I'll try. There is a manual from H.R.
Etzold in german "So wird's gemacht" for the A6 which describes it.

Step one might not really be neccessary. In my book it just comes
before step 2, but if I look at the drawings, the trim really might
come off without step 1 as well. Possibly you can not place it aside
then as the switch assy will be connected to the door, but for a first
look this could be ok.

1.) Remove the electric window switches:

there is a small hole on the internal door handle on the lower front
end of the handle under the electric switch assy. You have to insert a
flathead screwdriver into that hole until you feel resistance. The
screwdriver now is sitting against a plastic nose which snapped the
complete switch assy into place.

You have to pry the tip of the screwdriver towards the back of the car
now. This will press the plastic nose backwards and at the same time
you need to press the screwdriver carefully upwards. This pushes the
complete assy upwards and out.

      |
      |door handle
     _|_
    |  / nose      
    |I
     I
     I-- screwdriver

      |
      |door handle
   ___|
  |  / nose      
  |I
   I
   I-- screwdriver

Disconnect the assembly from the harness, but be careful about the
locking mechanisms of the connector.

2.)  Remove the trim

High up on the door trim, facing to the front and the back of the car
there are two screws. One facing each direction. Unscrew them. Lift
the trim some 20 cm up unhooking it at the top. There are several
plastic supports at the lower side of the door holding the door in
place at that edge. I guess one has to be careful not to break them.

---

Please note, that I never did that myself but quote from a DIY style
book. It does not look that difficult, I just dont have first hand
experience with it.

>Mark

Regards

Wolfgang
nowhere@home.com - 26 Nov 2003 16:09 GMT
Hi,

Thanks to all for the help - I think I'll have a go at it myself.

Cheers,
Mark
Stuart - 26 Nov 2003 21:38 GMT
I had this same problem.
Garage replaced the motor.
They recommended I change the regulator as well as they said it was worn and
may cause a problem in the future.
Total bill was over three hundred pounds. nearer 400 actually.
I am now concerned that according to this thread the motor may have had
nothing to do with the problem!
Car has only done 30K miles, 5 yrs old though.

Anyway now if the other side goes I will no what to do.

Cheers
Stuart

> Hi,
>
> Thanks to all for the help - I think I'll have a go at it myself.
>
> Cheers,
> Mark
daytripper - 26 Nov 2003 22:26 GMT
>I had this same problem.
>Garage replaced the motor.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
>Anyway now if the other side goes I will no what to do.

The "regulator" *is* the "motor".
John - 27 Nov 2003 03:49 GMT
On my car (96 A4Q), the regulator is the cable/pully/lever contraption that guides
the window up or down - separate from the window motor that drives it. They can be
replaced independently. I've had both front regulators replaced (at different
times), both due to a broken plastic bracket piece that held the window to the
regulator. I think it was about $350 USD each time.

> >I had this same problem.
> >Garage replaced the motor.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> The "regulator" *is* the "motor".
nowhere@home.com - 09 Dec 2003 09:38 GMT
Hi,

>OK, that could be a bit lengthy. I'll try. There is a manual from H.R.
>Etzold in german "So wird's gemacht" for the A6 which describes it.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>plastic supports at the lower side of the door holding the door in
>place at that edge. I guess one has to be careful not to break them.

I have now had a chance to try this but I can't get the trim off.  I
located and removed the two screws.  However the trim does not
move even when I apply some force to it.  Any more force and something
will break, I believe.

Does anyone have any practical experience they would be willing to
share?

BTW: It's a Audi A6 Avant '99 SE

TIA, Mark
jbhaass - 31 May 2009 00:00 GMT
I just fixed my two front windows - this is most likely your problem
The window operates with a cable system that locks into plastic slider
if one of the sliders breaks it causes the window to wedge and ge
stuck. I ordered the sliders from Jeff at vividracing.com par
4B0-837-463-B - buy two even though only one is probably broken.

Roll window all the way down if possible,

Remove the panel - one screw to remove on each side of panel - smal
phillips. Lift panel gently. pay attention to all the wires - mark the
then disconnect all wires and door latch. Remove swicth by insertin
small phillips into hole under handle and press tab to release.
Remove inside door frame by removing four star bolts. Also gently pr
off the rubber dams on the top side ofconnecting the door and inne
frame. Remove tiny phillips screw on dam near hinge side.

Remove the inner frame - lay it on a blanket - replace broken slide
and reverse the process. I also cleaned lubed all the cables while I wa
at it.

Reverse the process - remember to reconnect the latch befor you clos
the door!! Cost $30

--
jbhaas
 
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