 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / BMW Cars / September 2006E36 needs new brake pads . . .
thinking of doing it myself. I have access to a cheap repair shop to take off tires and use a lift. how hard of a job is it ? thanks The job is as easy as taking of each wheel, taking off each caliper, pushing the pads back in the caliper to push the pistons back, then putting new pads in. The car can be lifted with the jack in the boot/trunk and the wheel can be put under the wishbone in case the car falls of the jack. If I remember rightly, calipers are held on with 9mm allen screws. If you do the job properly, you will replace the discs too, these will require an impact driver/wrench with a 5 or 6mm allen screw socket and an 18mm socket to remove the caliper frame. If you do the rears, bear in mind that you can only remove the disc with the handbrake off as there are brake shoes internal to the disc and if you renew the disc (the rears last forever) you should renew the shoes too. Put a rag around the master cylinder reservoir to catch any fluid pumped back when you push back the pads. I would say to do all 5 is about 1.5 hours work max. The Haynes manual describes it in better detail than my text. Good luck > thinking of doing it myself. > I have access to a cheap repair shop to take off tires > and use a lift. > how hard of a job is it ? > thanks "Pashlipops" <nickpashley@hotmail.com> wrote in message <1156750705.124758.47260@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>: >If you do the job properly, you will replace the discs too, these will >require an impact driver/wrench with a 5 or 6mm allen screw socket and >an 18mm socket to remove the caliper frame. Are you suggesting disks should always be replaced at the same time as pads? > Are you suggesting disks should always be replaced at the same time as > pads? It's something to be prepared for if it's the first time you've done this job. The discs only last for approx two sets of pads. FWIW, I've just bought all the discs pads and sensors for an E39 from Eurocarparts. 230 gbp for OEM quality.  Signature*Age is a very high price to pay for maturity. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > "Pashlipops" <nickpashley@hotmail.com> wrote in message ><1156750705.124758.47260@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>: [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Are you suggesting disks should always be replaced at the same time as >pads? Mostly. If you measure the rotors and they're still within spec, pass a visual inspection (not scored, spalted or generally ickky) and you're happy with the way they feel (no wobbles or pulsing when braking) then you can probably re-use them. But you get the caliper off and notice the rotor is bad you'll have to do this job again. Do it right once, have the rotors in stock and if you don't need to replace them this time good for you. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net When I changed the discs and pads on my E36 a few years ago, I bought ATE branded discs from ECP (OE quality - ATE actually make the discs for BMW for my E46) they lasted 6000 miles before becoming warped, they were exchanged and the next set lasted a similar number of miles. I had them exchanged again, but sold the car within a few thousand miles. The original discs had lasted about 80000 miles (I did not look what brand they were). When I changed the discs on my E46, I went for genuine BMW items, they cost a little more, but I had the confidence that they were going to last longer. PP > When I changed the discs and pads on my E36 a few years ago, I bought > ATE branded discs from ECP (OE quality - ATE actually make the discs > for BMW for my E46) they lasted 6000 miles before becoming warped, they > were exchanged and the next set lasted a similar number of miles. I > had them exchanged again, but sold the car within a few thousand miles. > The original discs had lasted about 80000 miles (I did not look what > brand they were). > When I changed the discs on my E46, I went for genuine BMW items, they > cost a little more, but I had the confidence that they were going to > last longer. I and my brother have been using aftermarket ATE parts for years on our BMWs without problems. It's not clear if you fitted them yourself which may be the difference? It's also possible I suppose ATE use different factories for different parts of the world as you're not the first to say this. Also my local BMW specialist uses ATE, and if problems were common that would make no sense, as they also supply genuine parts as needed. Signature*Why is it that doctors call what they do "practice"? Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >> When I changed the discs and pads on my E36 a few years ago, I bought >> ATE branded discs from ECP (OE quality - ATE actually make the discs [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >this. Also my local BMW specialist uses ATE, and if problems were common >that would make no sense, as they also supply genuine parts as needed. 6000 miles on rotors before they warp indicates a problem: http://articles.mbz.org/brake/warped/ SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net > >I and my brother have been using aftermarket ATE parts for years on our > >BMWs without problems. It's not clear if you fitted them yourself which [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >common that would make no sense, as they also supply genuine parts as > >needed. > 6000 miles on rotors before they warp indicates a problem: Could be a problem in the fitting or manufacture. But if you want to pay BMW prices, go ahead. ;-) Signature*The most wasted day of all is one in which we have not laughed.* Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. I found that the brakes on my E36 are the easiest brakes for me to service myself of any of the many cars that I own, or have owned. > thinking of doing it myself. > I have access to a cheap repair shop to take off tires > and use a lift. > how hard of a job is it ? > thanks >I found that the brakes on my E36 are the easiest brakes for me to service >myself of any of the many cars that I own, or have owned. I did mine a few weeks ago, no problem at all once I found the right size allen key to remove the calipers. A long persuading device is recommended to use as a lever to get the pads and pistons back. The worst ones I have ever done were the rears on Various Lancia's, the handbrake mechanism operates through the back of the piston, so uses the same pads as the normal rear breaks, but because of this it also means the rear pistons are on a tread and you have to wind the damn things back in, and it feels like you're turning them for hours and hours and hours. I loose count how much skin I lost of my knuckles doing those! Dodgy. SignatureMUSHROOMS ARE THE OPIATE OF THE MOOSES > The worst ones I have ever done were the rears on Various Lancia's, > the handbrake mechanism operates through the back of the piston, so > uses the same pads as the normal rear breaks, but because of this it > also means the rear pistons are on a tread and you have to wind the > damn things back in, and it feels like you're turning them for hours > and hours and hours. That sounds very much like the Girling type I had on a '70s P6 Rover. If so, there's a special tool for winding them back - although it *is* a bit long winded. > I loose count how much skin I lost of my knuckles doing those! But at least you should have had the satisfaction of a decent handbrake, unlike the BMW drum type. ;-) Signature*Be more or less specific * Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. . . . >> The worst ones I have ever done were the rears on Various Lancia's, . . . >That sounds very much like the Girling type I had on a '70s P6 Rover. If You are the bravest bunch of poeple I've ever met. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net > >That sounds very much like the Girling type I had on a '70s P6 Rover. > You are the bravest bunch of poeple I've ever met. I changed the P6 for an SD1 Rover which I've still got. ;-) It makes an interesting contrast to the E39... Signature*No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >*No word in the English language rhymes orange Doorhinge. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net >> The worst ones I have ever done were the rears on Various Lancia's, >> the handbrake mechanism operates through the back of the piston, so [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >so, there's a special tool for winding them back - although it *is* a bit >long winded. I didn't discover a tool that had the right end adapter for many years. I used to do it half a turn at a time with a flat 2 foot steel bar. >> I loose count how much skin I lost of my knuckles doing those! > >But at least you should have had the satisfaction of a decent handbrake, >unlike the BMW drum type. ;-) You're having a laugh aren't you? Cable operated lever that pushes onto the back of the piston (That's when it didn't seize up)? I could drive off down the road with it on full! I remember it seized up (in the off position), I didn't notice, and the MOT guy failed the car on it. I pointed out that I would never trust the hand brake even when it did work, and always parked in gear, and he confessed to having owned one himself and never got the handbrake working to his satisfaction. Still failed me though... Grrrr! Dodgy. SignatureMUSHROOMS ARE THE OPIATE OF THE MOOSES > >That sounds very much like the Girling type I had on a '70s P6 Rover. > >If so, there's a special tool for winding them back - although it *is* > >a bit long winded. > I didn't discover a tool that had the right end adapter for many > years. I used to do it half a turn at a time with a flat 2 foot steel > bar. > >> I loose count how much skin I lost of my knuckles doing those! > > > >But at least you should have had the satisfaction of a decent handbrake, > >unlike the BMW drum type. ;-) > You're having a laugh aren't you? Cable operated lever that pushes > onto the back of the piston (That's when it didn't seize up)? I could > drive off down the road with it on full! Ah - that's not the same as the Girling. It had a mechanical self adjusting system for the rear pads which was operated by both the handbrake and hydraulic piston. The handbrake would easily lock the rear wheels at 20 mph. Used to impress the MOT guys. ;-) > I remember it seized up (in the off position), I didn't notice, and > the MOT guy failed the car on it. I pointed out that I would never > trust the hand brake even when it did work, and always parked in gear, > and he confessed to having owned one himself and never got the > handbrake working to his satisfaction. > Still failed me though... Grrrr! My E39 has technically failed twice but been let through on an advisory. But it's an auto, and the interlocks mean you tend to leave it in park. Signature*Lottery: A tax on people who are bad at math. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >> >That sounds very much like the Girling type I had on a '70s P6 Rover. >> >If so, there's a special tool for winding them back - although it *is* [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >My E39 has technically failed twice but been let through on an advisory. >But it's an auto, and the interlocks mean you tend to leave it in park. I've got an MOT test on my E36 at the weekend, mine's an auto too, and I've been doing my best to remember to apply the handbrake for the last few weeks and going round the block with it one click on just to clean the shoes up, I never use it, I just push the shifter into park. Seems silly that they could technically fail the car on a handbrake that is actually less of a mechanical lock that the gearbox park. Dodgy. SignatureMUSHROOMS ARE THE OPIATE OF THE MOOSES >> I found that the brakes on my E36 are the easiest brakes for me to service >> myself of any of the many cars that I own, or have owned. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > I loose count how much skin I lost of my knuckles doing those! Almost all rear calipers are a variation on that. Worst I've encountered was a 2000 Beetle Turbo. I had a Scorpion for years, autocrossed it lots. >>> I found that the brakes on my E36 are the easiest brakes for me to service >>> myself of any of the many cars that I own, or have owned. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > >I had a Scorpion for years, autocrossed it lots. Ah, except the Italians perfected the art of making the seize solid! Scorpion? Ah hang on, that's the Beta Monte Carlo over here... So you'll know all about the fun :-D Dodgy. SignatureMUSHROOMS ARE THE OPIATE OF THE MOOSES > A long persuading device is recommended to use as a lever to get the > pads and pistons back. The calipers should go back on easily if you push the pistons all the way back in, even with nice, thick new pads. And the pistons should go in easily if you loosen the bleeder valve for the fluid to come out of it while pushing the piston. Back in the old days in years past with other cars, I would push the pistons back in without loosening the bleeder--more brawn than brains I'd say, but it just never occurred to me to let some fluid bleed out...duhhhh. ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff >> A long persuading device is recommended to use as a lever to get the >> pads and pistons back. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >loosening the bleeder--more brawn than brains I'd say, but it just >never occurred to me to let some fluid bleed out...duhhhh. It goes back up the pipe to the reservoir anyway... Just take a bit more push... I prefer to keep it safe that way and not risk letting air in through the bleed nipple. I hate bleeding brakes! Dodgy. SignatureMUSHROOMS ARE THE OPIATE OF THE MOOSES >>> A long persuading device is recommended to use as a lever to get the >>> pads and pistons back. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > >I hate bleeding brakes! So do I. Especially when I could have avoided it. Take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, and monitor the fluid level after you have pushed each piston back in. Be ready to use a big-bore drinking straw with your finger over the end like a pipette to remove brake fluid from the reservoir before it overflows... SignatureDan. > >>> A long persuading device is recommended to use as a lever to get the > >>> pads and pistons back. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > So do I. Especially when I could have avoided it. But this is no big deal. You just loosen the nozzle and let a little fluid come out while you push the piston...makes the effort a good deal easier. Then just tighten the nozzle and that's it. You don't have overflow at the reservoir either. Don't worry about air getting into the lines. But the reason I started loosening the nozzle with this car is that the talk was that not doing so while pushing in the piston could damage the system. How much truth there is here I don't know, but I always loosen now to be safe, and like I said it makes the job easier. ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff >> >I hate bleeding brakes! >> >> So do I. Especially when I could have avoided it. > >Don't >worry about air getting into the lines. But I *do* worry about it, one little slip and it's in there. >But the reason I started loosening the nozzle with this car is that >the talk was that not doing so while pushing in the piston could >damage the system. How much truth there is here I don't know, >but I always loosen now to be safe, and like I said it makes the >job easier. Whatever works for you is fine. Quite how pushing brake fluid back up to the master cylinder can damage the system escapes me - perhaps someone can explain? Last weekend, I replaced *well* worn pads on a friend's '85 Alfa Spider without cracking any bleed nipples. It only took two hours and the brake pedal is rock solid. SignatureDan. > >Don't > >worry about air getting into the lines. > > But I *do* worry about it, one little slip and it's in there. One little slip and it's in there? How? Loosen nozzle, push piston, fluid is displaced out of the valve, tighten nozzle...how can air get in? But what if it did somehow anyway? It'd be easy to get back out, no big problem. Not trying to start a petty argument understand, I just don't follow... ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff >One little slip and it's in there? How? Loosen nozzle, push >piston, fluid is displaced out of the valve, tighten nozzle...how can >air get in? >But what if it did somehow anyway? It'd be easy to get back out, no >big problem. Not trying to start a petty argument understand, I >just don't follow... Of the two ways to do it, one of them has some possibility of letting an air bubble into the cylinder. The other one doesn't. It's really not worth debating if you're happy with cracking the bleed valves for this purpose. SignatureDan. > Whatever works for you is fine. Quite how pushing brake fluid back up > to the master cylinder can damage the system escapes me - perhaps > someone can explain? FWIW, I went to the trouble to pull out my Bentley Manual. >From BMW 3 Series Service Manual, copyright 1999, page 340-5 (Brakes): 9. Slowly press piston back into caliper. Use care not to damage piston dust seal. See Fig. 6. NOTE---- Open caliper bleeder screw when pressing piston back into caliper. Catch expelled fluid in appropriate container. This procedure is highly recommended in the case of cars with ABS. Open the bleeder screw only when applying force to the piston. Do not allow air to be drawn in through the bleeder screw. . . . ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff >> From BMW 3 Series Service Manual, copyright 1999, > page 340-5 (Brakes): Would that be the same manual as http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=b398 and if so, does it actually cover the 320i Coupe (E36/M50) - contrary to what the web page says? If they can't get it right on their own web site, I'd rather ask someone who actually has the manual before mail-ordering it. Andrew > >> From BMW 3 Series Service Manual, copyright 1999, > > page 340-5 (Brakes): > > Would that be the same manual as > http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=b398 Yep, that's it. > and if so, does it actually cover the 320i Coupe (E36/M50) Well, no. But it doesn't state on the cover (or anywhere else, that I'm aware of) that it does. > - contrary to what the web page says? I didn't catch that. ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff >>>> From BMW 3 Series Service Manual, copyright 1999, >>> page 340-5 (Brakes): [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > I didn't catch that. I thought maybe the manual did cover it but got missed off the web page. Oh well, looks like Mr. Haynes gets a sale instead. <hopeful>Unless the 320i is so similar to the 325i that the Bentley manual will do?</hopeful> Cheers, Andrew >>Whatever works for you is fine. Quite how pushing brake fluid back up >>to the master cylinder can damage the system escapes me - perhaps [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Open the bleeder screw only when applying force to the piston. > Do not allow air to be drawn in through the bleeder screw. I know the BMW TIS is not as authoritative as a Bentley manual, but it specifically say to push the caliper pistons back using special BMW tool 34 1 050 and to pay attention to the rising fluid level in the expansion tank. Signature-Fred W >> FWIW, I went to the trouble to pull out my Bentley Manual. >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > >I know the BMW TIS is not as authoritative as ^^^ Well, what do *they* know? SignatureDan. > I know the BMW TIS is not as authoritative as a Bentley manual, but it > specifically say to push the caliper pistons back using special BMW tool > 34 1 050 and to pay attention to the rising fluid level in the > expansion tank. Uh-oh, special tooooollllllssss. When I first bought my beamer, I called a local dealership with a specific question about oil changing, and the dip on the phone was sure to tell me that I would need a, uh, a special tool...... I'm still not sure what he meant, unless it was the big socket for getting the top off the filter housing with. I just went to NAPA and bought one, nothing special about it; would make a good headknocker though. BTW, does your BMW TIS tell you about "lifetime" fluids? A lot of the crap from BMW ain't worth the paper it's written on. ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff > BTW, does your BMW TIS tell you about "lifetime" fluids? A lot > of the crap from BMW ain't worth the paper it's written on. Trouble with these gut feelings about 'extended' lubricant life is that they are just that - gut feelings. I doubt any individual has done the same research as the maker. And before you mention 'free' servicing on a new car as the reason, not every country gets this. Signature*If a thing is worth doing, wouldn't it have been done already? Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >>BTW, does your BMW TIS tell you about "lifetime" fluids? A lot >>of the crap from BMW ain't worth the paper it's written on. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > same research as the maker. And before you mention 'free' servicing on a > new car as the reason, not every country gets this. That's actually a good point, Dave. Not to infer you've never made one before... ;-) I don't think I've ever seen *credible* evidence that shows the purported "lifetime fluid" was the actual cause of a failed transmission. Lots of anecdotal blabbering, but in all of those cases who's to say that the failure in question would not have happened if the fluid was changed every day? Signature-Fred W >>I know the BMW TIS is not as authoritative as a Bentley manual, but it >>specifically say to push the caliper pistons back using special BMW tool >> 34 1 050 and to pay attention to the rising fluid level in the >>expansion tank. > > Uh-oh, special tooooollllllssss. Yeah, because this procedure is intended for use by BMW factory trained mechanics that will have such tools laying about the shop tool crib. But I prefer to use a "special tool" that I call a C-clamp. Works quite nicely, thanks, and doubles as a... well, a C-clamp. The main point in my post (since you seem to have missed or ignored it) is that the manufacturer says you *don't* open the bleed screw when depressing the caliper pistons. This on the exact car in question, which by the way does have the dreaded ABS brakes. > BTW, does your BMW TIS tell you about "lifetime" fluids? A lot > of the crap from BMW ain't worth the paper it's written on. Ah yes. That discredits them completely then, doesn't it. What do they know about the cars they make. I mean compared to you, that is... Signature-Fred W > >>I know the BMW TIS is not as authoritative as a Bentley manual, but it > >>specifically say to push the caliper pistons back using special BMW tool [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Yeah, because this procedure is intended for use by BMW factory trained > mechanics that will have such tools laying about the shop tool crib. But you, nor most of the readers of BMW TIS, are BMW factory trained techs with such tools laying about the shop tool crib. Point? > But I prefer to use a "special tool" that I call a C-clamp. Works quite > nicely, thanks, and doubles as a... well, a C-clamp. So, IOW, with your second and third sentence, you threw water all over the bullshit it the first, written above. You're trolling and don't even know it. BTW, I've always used the wooden handle end of a rubber hammer I have, and it also works quite nicely. I just put the wooden end flat up against the surface of the piston and, in effect, push with the rubber end. > The main point in my post (since you seem to have missed or ignored it) > is that the manufacturer says you *don't* open the bleed screw when > depressing the caliper pistons. Do they specifically say "don't" open the bleed screws when pushing the pistons back in? I frankly doubt it makes much difference to the brakes either way. It's just easier and less hassle to do it with the bleeder bleeding fluid. > This on the exact car in question, > which by the way does have the dreaded ABS brakes. The manufacturer says a lot of things, and leaves a lot out too. If you swallow all the hype, baloney and outright lies that comes from BMW, then I've got a bridge...... But you have Cliff's permission continue to not open the bleed screws. ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff >>>>I know the BMW TIS is not as authoritative as a Bentley manual, but it >>>>specifically say to push the caliper pistons back using special BMW tool [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > But you, nor most of the readers of BMW TIS, are BMW factory trained > techs with such tools laying about the shop tool crib. Point? Just explaining the special tools thing. >>But I prefer to use a "special tool" that I call a C-clamp. Works quite >>nicely, thanks, and doubles as a... well, a C-clamp. > > So, IOW, with your second and third sentence, you threw water > all over the bullshit it the first, written above. You're trolling > and don't even know it. Not trolling. My C-clamp is my "special tool". It performs the exact equivelent function as the BMW one. > BTW, I've always used the wooden handle > end of a rubber hammer I have, and it also works quite nicely. > I just put the wooden end flat up against the surface of the piston > and, in effect, push with the rubber end. That's OK. The only problem is if when pressing you don't exert force evenly and end up cocking the piston, it is possible to score the bore of the caliper. The BMW tool, as well as my C-clamp, exert force evenly across the face of the piston (I use one of the old pads with the C-clamp, and so eliminate that possibility. That said, I think the likelyhood of buggering the caliper is pretty low. >>The main point in my post (since you seem to have missed or ignored it) >>is that the manufacturer says you *don't* open the bleed screw when >>depressing the caliper pistons. > > Do they specifically say "don't" open the bleed screws when pushing > the pistons back in? The specifically say to watch out for the rising level in the reservoir, which sort of infers you aren't opening the bleed screw, doesn't it? > I frankly doubt it makes much difference to > the brakes either way. I agree. >It's just easier and less hassle to do it > with the bleeder bleeding fluid. And I would counter that it's much easier to not open the bleeder. No muss, no fuss. Not even a remote chance of admitting some air in the brake line. The main argument usually made for your method is some sort of old wive's tale about damaging the ABS pump by pushing the old fluid back up the lines. Apparently this is not a concern for BMWs. >>This on the exact car in question, >>which by the way does have the dreaded ABS brakes. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > But you have Cliff's permission continue to not open the bleed screws. Gee thanks. And you have my permission to continue to open them. I'd bet that if people were presented the two options the vast majority would find my method preferable. Signature-Fred W > > Uh-oh, special tooooollllllssss. > > Yeah, because this procedure is intended for use by BMW factory trained > mechanics that will have such tools laying about the shop tool crib. > But I prefer to use a "special tool" that I call a C-clamp. Works quite > nicely, thanks, and doubles as a... well, a C-clamp. I just use my hands. Never had the need for a special or non-special tool. > > > Uh-oh, special tooooollllllssss. > > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I just use my hands. Never had the need for a special or non-special > tool. Just your hands!? Damn, yer more man than I am. ----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1. --------- http://www.lrb.co.uk/v28/n06/print/mear01_.html ---------- "Don't worry about American pressure on Israel. We, the Jewish people, control America, and the Americans know it." ---Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, 2001 SignatureCliff >>>Uh-oh, special tooooollllllssss. >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I just use my hands. Never had the need for a special or non-special > tool. Top be honest, I have done it manually too, pushing the caliper against the disk (rotor) after removing the guide pins, but only when in a pinch. I had a brake pad fail on my tow vehicle (Ford Exploder) this past summer up while up in Northern Maine and had to change them in the gravel driveway of the camp we were staying at. The broken pad friction material was dragging on the rotors and causing them to heat up. I had a few tools in the truck but hadn't taken my big C-clamp since... well, it is big, and heavy. But when doing the job in my garage at home I find that a c-clamp ensures the piston get pressed back evenly and in a controlled fashion. Signature-Fred W >>I hate bleeding brakes! > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > big-bore drinking straw with your finger over the end like a pipette > to remove brake fluid from the reservoir before it overflows... Nah, go abscond the turkey baster from SWMBO. Tell he you have no idea what happened to it but she is free to go out and buy a new one. Signature-Fred W >> Take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, and monitor the fluid >> level after you have pushed each piston back in. Be ready to use a [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Nah, go abscond the turkey baster from SWMBO. Tell he you have no idea >what happened to it but she is free to go out and buy a new one. You can only do that once, and I already did. I hid it somewhere but I never could find the damned thing again. SignatureDan. > >Nah, go abscond the turkey baster from SWMBO. Tell he you have no idea > >what happened to it but she is free to go out and buy a new one. > You can only do that once, and I already did. I hid it somewhere but > I never could find the damned thing again. Other thing is one of those pump spray kitchen cleaners, etc. Rinse well before use. Just put the intake pipe in the reservoir and pump into a container. Signature*If you ate pasta and anti-pasta, would you still be hungry? Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. I personally had never thought about openning the bleed nipple, and on the face of it, it seems a good idea, however, personally, I would still push the fluid back to the reservoir, but I would do it one caliper at a time, and then pump the brake up. Whilst doing it, I would also open the reservoir and put an absorbant rag over the top. You could also take some fluid out with a medical syringe, which are quite cheap on EBay, then put it back in afterwards (but again, I would be interfering with the equilibrium of the system, the yin and yang - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yin_and_yang)! The reasons I would still push the fluid back are: 1. I dont believe I could damage the system 2. I do not want to open a closed system and lose fluid which I will probably want to replace 3. I probably wont have topped the fluid up throughout the duration of the pads life, the reservoir quantity is such that it can accommodate both new and old pads 4. I like to avoid fluid mess Saying this, both methods work, and the bottom line is whatever makes you feel most comfortable. > > >Nah, go abscond the turkey baster from SWMBO. Tell he you have no idea > > >what happened to it but she is free to go out and buy a new one. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > before use. Just put the intake pipe in the reservoir and pump into a > container. Or just use any old piece of pipe - dip it in, thumb over the end withdraw the pipe to an alternative container take thumb off and repeat. >>>Nah, go abscond the turkey baster from SWMBO. Tell he you have no idea >>>what happened to it but she is free to go out and buy a new one. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > before use. Just put the intake pipe in the reservoir and pump into a > container. I actually have an old 50cc syringe (minus the hypodermic needle) that I keep in the garage for sucking out the old brake fluid. Works a charm... Signature-Fred W |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.