Cracked Oil Pan on e30

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grammar1 - 13 Sep 2006 16:50 GMT

Hi, I just recently cracked the oil pan on my e30 325i and replacement
seems pretty straight forward but on the back of the pan there are 2
bolts that I cannot access due to a cover. Im thinking its a clutch
cover or something. Anyways, I took all of the bolts that I could see
on the cover off, including some torx head ones which required the
purchase of some new sockets, and the thing still wont come off. I just
need to get at the two back bolts. Can anyone give me some insight on
this?

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Dean Dark - 13 Sep 2006 17:18 GMT

>Hi, I just recently cracked the oil pan on my e30 325i and replacement
>seems pretty straight forward but on the back of the pan there are 2
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>need to get at the two back bolts. Can anyone give me some insight on
>this?

At risk of copyright infringement, Bentley says:

1. Drain the oil (haha!).

2. Disconnect the oil level sensor harness connector, located at the
base of the alternator.

3. Remove the two bolts that secure the steering rack to the
subframe.

4. Remove the four hex head bolts and four torx head bolts that
secure the bellhousing reinforcement plate. Remove the plate.

5. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts and lower the oil pan. Remove
the three oil pump mounting bolts and lower the oil pump into the pan.
Withdraw the oil pan with the oil pump.

I believe you have missed out step # 4. Many engines require that the
engine backplate, or a part of it, be removed in order to reveal the
rearmost oil pan bolts.

HTH.

Signature

Dan.

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grammar1 - 13 Sep 2006 17:32 GMT

Thanks, I removed the 4 torx bolts but I think after reading what you
wrote that I may have missed a couple of hex bolts somewhere. Im
surprised bentley doesnt mention that to get that cover off, it
requires removing the stablilizer arm lol. Ill get under there a little
later and see if I can figure it out, maybe its just being stubborn and
I need to crank on it a little.

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Dean Dark - 13 Sep 2006 17:38 GMT

>Thanks, I removed the 4 torx bolts but I think after reading what you
>wrote that I may have missed a couple of hex bolts somewhere. Im
>surprised bentley doesnt mention that to get that cover off,

It *does* tell you, that's what step 4 is. You have to physically
remove the "bellhousing reinforcement plate."

Signature

Dan.

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MZ - 14 Sep 2006 01:29 GMT

You are aware also of the torque specs on the replacement pan so the (new)
gasket remains intact?
MZ

> Hi, I just recently cracked the oil pan on my e30 325i and replacement
> seems pretty straight forward but on the back of the pan there are 2
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> need to get at the two back bolts. Can anyone give me some insight on
> this?

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grammar1 - 14 Sep 2006 16:21 GMT

No, im not sure on those specs. Ive always, as a general rule with
gaskets just tighten using proper opposing boltup technique until the
gasket just starts to stick out a little. This job has proven to be
more of a pain in the a.s than i originally anticipated. I now realize
that i am going to have to jack up the motor and disconnect the motor
mounts then secure the motor on blocks in order for the pan to clear on
removal.

If you have those specs though, that would be awesome, always better to
do it properly

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Dean Dark - 14 Sep 2006 17:12 GMT

>No, im not sure on those specs. Ive always, as a general rule with
>gaskets just tighten using proper opposing boltup technique until the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>If you have those specs though, that would be awesome, always better to
>do it properly

Bentley says:

Oil pan bolts: 7 to 8 ft/lb.
Steering rack bolts: 31 ft/lb.
Oil pump mounting bolts: 16 ft/lb.

Signature

Dan.

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grammar1 - 18 Sep 2006 03:28 GMT

I just wanted to thank you guys for all your help, I successfully
finished the oil pan job this weekend. Alot of work, but I learned alot
as well. Found a few other problems while I was down there though lol.
Simple fixes, its all good.

Thanks

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