 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / BMW Cars / October 2006Clutch Shuddering... getting worst more hints
So I posted before saying that my clutch was sort of shuddering when I was engagaing the clutch. I really only noticed this when I was down shifting butit seems to be doing this when Im shifting up as well. Its only when I am engaging the clutch. I dont know too much about cars but I'd like to think its when the 2 plates begin touching all the way until they are fully engaged. Also it seems like if I give it more gas then I regularily would it doesnt do it. So could something be loose? I have no idea what it owuld be but thats what it sort of feels like. I am certain though that Im giving it enough gas so its not like Im stalling the motor and the car is shaking. It totally feels like something is loose. Any ideas? Id sor to flike a general idea before I take it in. Maybe how much it might cost to fix it as well. Should I take to a BMW dealer or just a normal garage? I dont want to pay alot just to have it looked at. Thanks again The most common reason for a clutch to start shuddering or 'juddering' as some people say is because the clutch surface is being contaminated with oil. The oil gets fried by the heat generated by the friction of normal use and turns into a sticky mess that is not conducive to smooth operation of the clutch. This oil can come from either the rear main seal of the engine or, more likely, from the front seal on the transmission. I had this happen on my e30 '84 318i several years ago and the shaking became quite violent before I was sure enough of the source of the problem to tear it apart. Early in the development of the problem I could prevent it from happening by increasing the revs and nursing the clutch out very slowly but eventually this technique no longer worked and if it shuddered at high revs it shook so badly I thought the wheels were hopping off the ground. My 318i had 256k miles on it at the time this happened so it seems to me that your car doesn't really have enough miles on it for this to be happening but it is fairly easy to damage this oil seal during installation as it must be slipped on over the splined input shaft of the transmission. It only takes a little burr on the spline to score the lip of the seal and you're in for trouble. It's a pretty major operation to replace the seal as you have to remove the transmission to get at it so I wouldn't be in any great hurry to do it. Eventually it will ruin the damping springs on the clutch disk but that would have to be replaced anyway. If you wait a little longer and it keeps getting worse I would be fairly certain that this is your problem. I would guess that it would probably cost over $1000 to have this fixed at the dealer. You can call and they will give you their flat rate for replacing a clutch. I had my flywheel reground as well because I couldn't seem to get the surface discoloration off with solvents and scotchbrite so that might add another hundred bucks it they decide you need that too. > So I posted before saying that my clutch was sort of shuddering when I > was engagaing the clutch. I really only noticed this when I was down [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Thanks again > So I posted before saying that my clutch was sort of shuddering when I > was engagaing the clutch. I really only noticed this when I was down > shifting butit seems to be doing this when Im shifting up as well. Its > only when I am engaging the clutch. I dont know too much about cars but > I'd like to think its when the 2 plates begin touching all the way > until they are fully engaged. [snip] Shuddering can have a number of causes. Poor fitting of the clutch unit resulting in deformation - although this would probably show from new. Worn or broken parts of the clutch. More likely oil on the linings from either the gearbox or engine - the engine being the most likely. Possibly even broken engine/gearbox mountings or torque reaction ties where fitted. Unfortunately, most of these require access to the clutch to rectify, which means removing the gearbox or engine.  Signature*I'm planning to be spontaneous tomorrow * Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > Shuddering can have a number of causes. Poor fitting of the clutch unit > resulting in deformation - although this would probably show from new. > Worn or broken parts of the clutch. More likely oil on the linings from > either the gearbox or engine - the engine being the most likely. Possibly > even broken engine/gearbox mountings or torque reaction ties where fitted. I agree. Gearbox and engine mountings usually only show symptoms when pulling away. Contamination can sometimes be helped by slipping the clutch like trying to pull away in top etc to burn off any oil but it's usually only temporary. Early E36s had a problem with the the clutch when it got hot and you have to live with it or fit a new clutch. Sometimes the dual-mass flywheel springs get old and worn and can cause some shuddering. Is there anyway to determine if my engine mounts are bad? For some reason I want to lean toward that because I notice sometimes with the clutch fully engaged and under heavy acceleration in fourth it almost seems a little shaky. Would that be the engine mounts? Thanks - jon > Is there anyway to determine if my engine mounts are bad? For some > reason I want to lean toward that because I notice sometimes with the > clutch fully engaged and under heavy acceleration in fourth it almost > seems a little shaky. Would that be the engine mounts? > > Thanks - jon Could be your propshaft bearing - that might give you the shakes on changes too. Engine/gearbox mounts are usually noticed on sudden changes so sudden acceleration or lifting off. Or in some cases shifting into third when you wanted 5th :-) > > Is there anyway to determine if my engine mounts are bad? For some > > reason I want to lean toward that because I notice sometimes with the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > changes so sudden acceleration or lifting off. Or in some cases > shifting into third when you wanted 5th :-) yeah .. one way to tell if it is your mount though is buy getting a pry bar and reafing (gentaly) on some sturdy parts neer the mounts and seeing if they disloge .if you notice it only when you are accelerating and not in normal driving then it is most likely mounts . if it is in all gears and all the time then id have to agree on the axl berring as well . however if it only does it in some gears or more than others then it could even be your gearbox My '95 318ti has 90k on it. The clutch works like a dream unless the car has been run for a while. Then shudder will be present but only when starting out from first gear (especially when on a hill). I increase the revs a little and that seems to help. The shuddering problem has been present since day one. I will be needing a new clutch at some point soon and hopefully the problem will be resolved. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.