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Car Forum / BMW Cars / May 2007M30 air intake manifold
I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a leak in the air intake manifold as well as an engine oil leak. Price 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing the intake manifold and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with the air intake manifold? How do I replace it and what does it cost? Thanks, Noobiedoobie > I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a > leak in the air intake manifold as well as an engine oil leak. Price [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks, > Noobiedoobie Sounds like the rubber boot connecting the airbox to the air flow meter, shaped like an "L". It runs about $28. There's another straight rubber boot between the air flow meter and the throttle body, about $25. Don't forget the myriad rubber hoses that are cracking. Easy and cheap, but time-consuming to replace. Check this site: www.realoem.com Bill in Omaha '86 535i > <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing the intake manifold > > and sealing the engine oil leak. I'll second the suggestion that the big rubber intake boot is cracked and likely has a vacuum leak on the bottom. You can check for it by squeezing the thing with the engine idling. If the idle changes (either up or down) as you do so, that's the problem. It's a half- hour job for a fumblethumbs like me. There is also a very common and very cheap and easy-to-fix oil leak on the M30. Check the oil pressure switch at the back of the head. Costs about $8 (even AutoZone stocks 'em) and 5 minutes to replace. Next most likely (and next cheapest/easiest) is a leaky valve cover gasket. > > Can anyone assist me with the air intake manifold? > > How do I replace it and what does it cost? I have *never* seen a reason to replace one, so there ought to be about a bazillion of 'em around, used, very cheap. But I'll bet you the rent that's not the problem. -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; done that) > > <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > C.R. Krieger > (Been there; done that) Thanks Krieger. I sincerely appreciate the insight. Thanks to you, I can get this fixed more quickly and cheaply. I may not even need my brother-in-law mechanic to look at it. What does the oil-pressure switch look like? > <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Bill in Omaha > '86 535i Yes! Thank you Bill in Omaha. With your help, I think I am going to just about steal this thing off of the seller's hands tonight for only 300 Canadian. I will try these simple fixes first. I hope these work and I don't have to get at the head gasket. Is it common for head gaskets to blow on these cars, I mean, the car is 345000 kilometres and 16 years old. > > <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > and 16 years old. > ----- M30 head gaskets are pretty tough and most would say the M30 is bullet-proof... if the basic maintenance has been done. I like mine for the timing chain and seemingly over-engineered design. No belt to break, just change the oil regularly, air and oil filters, plugs every other year, and valve clearances every other year or so. Do a compression check on the engine and that will tell a lot. Cylinders should be within 5% (?) of each other. Mine are and it has 173,000 miles. Air leaks are the main thing, but the M30B35 has a newer ECU and should be a little more tolerant than my M30B34. Don't look at the miles, look at the condition of the engine/body. Cheers! Bill in Omaha '86 535i > <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Hi Bill, I did it! I bought the BMW for 300 bucks Canadian. What a steal! I drove it home about 20 miles and it now sits in my garage awaiting my tools. The engine sounds really rough and it obviously wouldn't start in the winter, but only when idling. As soon as you drive away, it is almost as smooth as my brand new Odyssey or Altima. I figure the problem is with the air intake. On idling, it also misfires occasionally, so I think the compression of the cylinders is not in sync. I bought the BMW for 300 bucks Canadian. What a steal! I > drove it home about 20 miles and it now sits in my garage awaiting my > tools. The engine sounds really rough and it obviously wouldn't start [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > occasionally, so I think the compression of the cylinders is not in > sync.- Vacuum problems or air leaks usually present themselves as stalling or constant poor running at closed throttle with fine running at open throttle. Occasional misfiring at idle is more likely spark plugs and things like that in my experience. $300 might be a steal but I figure you're either going to learn a lot about this car or end up spending a lot of money. Usually if there's one thing the owner doesn't want to fix then there's half a dozen more they haven't told you about. > I bought the BMW for 300 bucks Canadian. What a steal! I > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > one thing the owner doesn't want to fix then there's half a dozen more > they haven't told you about. Ahhh...a pessimist. You gotta take a gamble sometimes. Thanks for the insight on the air leaks and misfiring. I am surely going to learn a heck of a lot about this car...I hope the oil leak isn't too much of a problem... >I hope the oil leak isn't too > much of a problem... Can you determine where the leak is originating from? MAybe spray some engine cleaner, soak about 30 minutes, pressure wash off. Run engine to operating temp to dry off. I used a car wash for $2 and did mine before finding the front crank seal was leaking. Quick and easy. I know of several locations and possible quick fixes. Please let us know where it is. Bill in Omaha '86 535i > >I hope the oil leak isn't too > > much of a problem... [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Bill in Omaha > '86 535i Thanks, Bill. I will do exactly this. I'll keep you posted. Here is a photo of the car. http://www.livedeal.ca/ShowItemDetail?id=768083 > > >I hope the oil leak isn't too > > > much of a problem... [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > a photo of the car. > http://www.livedeal.ca/ShowItemDetail?id=768083 Looks ok. You might consider a transmission fluid and filter change, too. You'll only be able to change half of the fluid due to half being in the torque converter, but it will make a difference. Considering the price of a new trans plus labor, you decide. I did my '98 528i in about an hour. You're lucky in that you have a fluid dip stick, the 528i did not. It shouldn't need special fluid either. Bill in Omaha '86 535i > <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I noticed that there is a timing belt missing. It connects from the main rotating mass which houses all of the belts to the rotating mass at the bottom right front of the engine. I am guessing that this runs the a/c unit because there are hoses with deteriorated foam casings on this side of the engine, and the a/c controls inside the cockpit are not functional. If I simply put this belt on and let 'er rip, what would happen? > > > > >I hope the oil leak isn't too > > > > > much of a problem... [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > > > finding the front crank seal was leaking. Quick and easy. I know of > > several locations and possible quick fixes. Please let us know where it is. > > > > Bill in Omaha > > > > '86535i [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > not functional. If I simply put this belt on and let 'er rip, what > would happen? The A/C belt (to the compressor). It may have been removed to prevent parasitic drag from a component that a) isn't needed at the time or locale, b) needs recharging to be useful and owner couldn't afford it, or c) belt just came off (unlikely). At best the A/C will work, at worst it will not. Maybe the charge leaked out due to cold or bad seal. Judging from the snow in the pic, you don't need the A/C anyway. I've had my A/C belt off since last August in Omaha. Bill in Omaha '86 535i >> > > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" <wecho...@yahoo.com> wrote: >> I noticed that there is a timing belt missing. It connects from the >> main rotating mass which houses all of the belts to the rotating mass [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > in the pic, you don't need the A/C anyway. I've had my A/C belt off since > last August in Omaha. Actually, the *WORST* that could happen is that the compressor is frozen and will cause the belt to break, possibly stall the engine, or the friction might cause a fire and destroy the car. FloydR > >> > > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" <wecho...@yahoo.com> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > FloydR --- Gee, FloydR! I was excepting the "Bimmer on Fire" scenario. Did you by any chance look at the pic from the place he bought it? There was a few feet of snow on the ground. I'm guessing he was a gangsta, too, as he had a set of dubs to go with it. LOL. I was thinking about the A/C belt because I have mine off now. I was working on it a few months back and when I removed a bit of attachments/mount brackets for cleaning, I replaced the belts (3 of them) and the A/C belt goes on last on mine. I used that belt for the P/S due to a mount a distance change when everything went back together - correctly. I just never got another belt. I will keep an eye on the "fire-breathing A/C compressor" when I get another belt! LOL Bill in Omaha > "Floyd Rogers" <fbloogyuds@hotmail.com> wrote >> >> > > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" <wecho...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I will keep an eye on the "fire-breathing A/C > compressor" when I get another belt! LOL There have been cases (mostly in the SW) where the compressor froze and the belt broke, which caused the engine to overheat, because the brilliant designers of US-made autos only use one belt for everything - a/c and water pump. Thank heavens for German engineers. FloydR > <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6 connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have stripped away. Looks and feels like cardboard now, but I'm sure they were originally a yellow coloured rubber of some sort. I haven't done any work on the car yet except unplugged the ICV while the engine was running to determine if the ICV was contributing to the rough idle (I mean the car is shaking, man), but this had no effect, so I will have to replace all of the hoses and the spark plugs, but first I will reseal the air intake manifold. Any idea on how to change the spark plugs without taking apart the engine? > I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6 > connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > reseal the air intake manifold. Any idea on how to change the spark > plugs without taking apart the engine? The spark plugs are on the passenger side of the engine. You are looking at the injectors. You'll need to remove the intake manifold to replace the gasket. I believe there is a support bracket and 12 nuts. While you're at it, get the injectors cleaned. They'll be easier to remove when the intake is off the engine. The six spark plugs take about 30 minutes to change. Check here: www.realoem.com It gives a full part breakout of each section of the car with part numbers. Bill in Omaha '86 535i > > I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6 > > connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Bill in Omaha > '86 535i Hi Bill. Believe me, I have memorized the diagrams on that site. Thank you. Do I just pull the suppressors off the plugs and then unscrew the plugs out? Lucky for me the ignition wiring is all brand new! Thats a couple hundred bucks right there, and if the rotor is also new, then damn doobie scoobie, I paid only 300 which is less than the cost of just these components alone! With regards to the injectors, do they just screw out as well? I plan on using Simple Green for cleaning everything in the engine. Stuff is awesome, I used to use it to clean injection molds back in the day. Advantage: You can drink the stuff if you were thirsty and it would supply vitamins to your body, and yet it would clean the bejesus out of anything (except glass, but they have one variety of Simple Green for glass now) > > > I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6 > > > connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > to your body, and yet it would clean the bejesus out of anything > (except glass, but they have one variety of Simple Green for glass now) Yeah, the plug boots just pull straight off. Just don't overtighten the new plugs. The injectors are best removed with the intake off the engine, just in case a pintle cap pops off an injector (it would fall onto the valve below and become an expedition to get it out!). Just a safe bet. The injectors just push into the intake and are held in by a rubber o-ring. The fuel rail runs across the top of the injectors and is held to them by an o-ring and a U-clip. I use a small screwdriver or long-nose pliers to get these off. Sometimes you can just use fingers if they're long enough. The fuel rail is bolted to the intake by 2 10mm bolts (on mine). Don't forget these or the rail will not move up enough to get the injectors out. The space is very tight under there, so be careful of dropping a clip. I have a full spare set from the junkyard, just in case. This all can be done without removing the intake, BUT... the whole job is easier if the intake is off the car. You will have to disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel rail (spillage) and the harness from the injectors (mark the injector number first!). I believe the harness will disconnect below the manifold and the injector harness will come out attached to the injectors. Be carful to label the other harness connectors on top when you disconnect them from sensors and senders. Otherwise, you'll get funny readings on the cluster when it all goes back together. This can be time consuming, but saves a lot of anguish. Plus you'll get the added benefit of making sure the thing is sealed right the first time. I'd replace all the intake-to-head gaskets (6 of them). If one is gone, good bet others are going. I did all this on an m20 325is. WHAT A BITCH doing it on the car! I replaced all 6 injectors on my '86 535i, intake on the car, in less than 45 minutes. Your big issue is the #6 intake gasket replacement. Bill in Omaha '86 535i > > > > I can see where theintakemanifoldis leaking. Right at the 6 > > > > connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have [quoted text clipped - 63 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Hey Bill! This is exactly the question I had for ya today. I was up until midnight trying to figure out how to get to the intake manifold because there is a wiring harness and a fuel rail blocking the intake hex bolts. You're right, there is hardly any room to maneouvre in there. I couldn't locate the two 10 mm bolts - are these the ones closest to windshield? I separated the cylindrical object at the end of the fuel rail thinking it was the gas vapour ventilation return because it had a vacuum hose attached, but found out after slight fuel spillage that fuel was going through this! This can't be the fuel filter, can it? Anyway, I gave up because my baby was crying upstairs (room on top of the garage where I was working), rubbed on some Simple Green and off to bed. But I couldn't sleep and returned quietly to the car at 4 AM and spent two hours trying to find some type of connection that I could undo to remove the obstructions to the intake gaskets. So, from what I can gather I need to disconnect the fuel rail from the injectors first via the U-clip? And then how does the wiring harness go away? This is really the biggest obstacle...if I could get that damn harness off, I would be able to at least see all of the gaskets. Yes, you're right, #6 is completely hidden by the wiring inlet from the windshield side. > I separated the cylindrical object at the end > of the fuel rail thinking it was the gas vapour ventilation return > because it had a vacuum hose attached, but found out after slight fuel > spillage that fuel was going through this! This can't be the fuel > filter, can it? No. It is the fuel pressure regulator. Get a Bentley manual so you know what the hell you're doing in there. It may cost you $50, but it will save you that much in aggravation and time, if not money paid to *redo the job properly*, the first time you use it. -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; done that) > > I separated the cylindrical object at the end > > of the fuel rail thinking it was the gas vapour ventilation return [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > C.R. Krieger > (Been there; done that) I've agree with Krieger here. It's much safer to get the Bentley manual. My years of experience still call for the Bentley lookups from time to time. Besides, it gives pictures and drawings. The day I bought my 3er and my 5er, I ordered or went to the bookstore and got a Bentley manual. That's like purchase #2 after the car. It will take the same amount of time to get the manual as it will to order the parts you'll need. They'll arrive close to the same time and you'll appreciate it. Leave the fuel rail on the manifold. Remove the manifold first. The harness disconnect is round (barrel-type) and below the manifold on the drivers side. Check this out for some quick pics: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-1984-BMW-733i-M30-Intake-manifold_W0QQit emZ170105106472QQihZ007QQcategoryZ36474QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem It's similar enough to get the idea. The injectors are removed, but you can see the holes. Send me an e-mail and can send a few better pics to you directly. wechorba@yahoo.com Bill in Omaha '86 535i > > > I separated the cylindrical object at the end > > > of the fuel rail thinking it was the gas vapour ventilation return [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I got the wiring harness off, but there were several connections under the intake manifold, one of which was the round barrel type electrical connection you mentioned. Can I now just disconnect the manifold and replace the gaskets with the fuel rail right on there? I hope so (the less dismantled the better, although I would like to fix the oil leak now that I have the engine compartment laid out.) And do you recommend I clean out the air flow meter and the throttle (there is a bit of brown scum) by spraying some degreaser or will this damage anything on the insides? I got the wiring harness off, but there were several connections under the intake manifold, one of which was the round barrel type electrical connection you mentioned. Can I now just disconnect the manifold and replace the gaskets with the fuel rail right on there? I hope so (the less dismantled the better, although I would like to fix the oil leak now that I have the engine compartment laid out.) And do you recommend I clean out the air flow meter and the throttle (there is a bit of brown scum) by spraying some degreaser or will this damage anything on the insides? ----- 12x 13mm nuts on manifold, 1x nut on the maniflold support and it should lift out. Use caution and watch for parts that may drop into the head as the intake side will be exposed. Also the 6 intake gaskets will be visible and may be stuck to the manifold or the head. Of course #6 (closest to the firewall) will be destroyed already. I recommend keeping one good one for a tracing pattern just in case (I do!). There will be some air hoses threaded in there. It's safe to clean the air flow meter (AFM), but DO NOT SPRAY THE TEMP SENSOR in there (it's a nub in the flow path. I just sprayed a little and wiped it out until it was clean and the door swung smoothly. Free motion is essential, NO BINDING. Flex all the connecting rubber to check for cracks. In a pinch, I wrapped black plastic electrical tape around them until I got another piece. It will seal, but only as a temp fix. The goal here is NO AIR LEAKS. Replace all those DAMNED crimp clamps with screw clamps... you'll appreciate it later when they get loose. Zip ties work in a pinch. Notice I have a lot of pinch fixes? LOL! So do these other guys. Also, a temp gasket can be made from the cardboard backing from a note pad. It's not too thick and is compressed like the gasket we should use. I once used one during a highway trip of 1000 miles and it was still good 3 years later when I sold the car. Bill in Omaha '86 535i > I got the wiring harness off, but there were several connections under > theintakemanifold, one of which was the round barrel type electrical [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > Bill in Omaha > '86 535i Bill, I know of a person who has a M50 engine in a 1994 525is. It has been sitting in his garage for a year because the engine will overheat if he turns it on. He took it to a dealer before he placed it in his garage and here is the report from the dealer: 'Started vehicle cold. Found running rough for first few minutes beforte warming up. Perfromed short test, No faults found in DME. Removed DME to check for corrosion or moisture . ok. Check ignition coils for cracks or defects. ok. Reoved spark plugs. Performed compression test. Compression test failed #6 cyl first time but passed second time. During compression test, noticed oil spraying out of cyl #3. Looked inside and noticed top of piston head covered in oil. Performed leakdown test ..results: 1=10 2=12 3=35 4=17 5=12 6=17 cyl #3 leakdown not acceptable. Heard air coming out of dipstick tube during #3 leakdown test. Vehile requires engine rebuild or replacement." Now, I am very skeptical about the conclusion that the engine needs replacement. My question is: would a gasket change take care of the oil leak problem here in cylinder 3? >> I got the wiring harness off, but there were several connections under >> theintakemanifold, one of which was the round barrel type electrical [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] >replacement. My question is: would a gasket change take care of the >oil leak problem here in cylinder 3? Doubt it. Air coming from dipstick tube more than often means piston blow-by or a bore/piston/ring problem. I would go for a strip down and a physical look at the bore (could be cracked or scored) Piston (cracked, holes, partial seize?) rings (broken, scuffed, seized and damaged. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ seems the price unless you do it yourself. I don't think you can drop the sump on that model???? > > >Now, I am very skeptical about the conclusion that the engine needs > >replacement. My question is: would a gasket change take care of the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ seems the price unless you do it yourself. I don't think > you can drop the sump on that model???? ----- Why won't the sump come out? You may have to lift the engine a few inches first. After parts replacement cost, DIY labor is just time. This would be best on a lift, but off the ground about 2 feet might do it. Bill in Omaha '86 535i >> > >Now, I am very skeptical about the conclusion that the engine needs >> >replacement. My question is: would a gasket change take care of the [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >Bill in Omaha >'86 535i Just a thought Bill - as you say off the mounts and off the floor maybe with a bit of fiddling and twisting it probably will come off. > Bill, I know of a person who has a M50 engine in a 1994 525is. It has > been sitting in his garage for a year because the engine will overheat [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > replacement. My question is: would a gasket change take care of the > oil leak problem here in cylinder 3? ----- First guess is the rings on #3 have failed, thus the oil. You didn't mention smoke from the exhaust or anything about coolant, so I can't be more specific. Either way, I'd remove the head. If the rings need replacing, it can be done on #3 without removing more than the head and oil pan (I've done it), i.e. the engine can stay in the car. This will allow for direct inspection of all the cylinders, walls, and the bottom of the head and valves. You'll be able to replace nearly anything you need to at this point. New: head gasket, head bolts, rings #3 (they come as a complete set and I might just do them all to be safe since it's open), valve cover gasket. Check the timing chain guides or belt and tensioner, intake-to-head gaskets if removed. Maybe do the water pump and gasket. No need to replace the engine. They are built pretty well and this should be rebuildable easily. You will see the cause of the problem when the head comes off. Unless the rings gouged the cylinder wall or ruined the piston top (doubtful), this should be basic R and R. You may need the cam holding tool for the head removal. Time consuming but not hard, and uses basic tools. Get access to a Bentley manual first. Oh yeah, what about coolant system? Bill in Omaha '86 535i > > > I separated the cylindrical object at the end > > > of the fuel rail thinking it was the gas vapour ventilation return [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > - Show quoted text - SUCCESS !!! I am happy to report that I have this puppy purring like a tamed tiger. My intake manifold refurbishing seemed to do the trick. Note: I didn't use any RTV sealant on gaskets because I suspect (I could be wrong) that it degrades the gasket material. I also cleaned out the spark plugs, ICV and air meter and throttle, and replaced the PCV hose. Total cost about 40 bucks Canadian, and about 8 hours of labour. I did change the oil and filter and used some fuel injector cleaner in the gasoline tank. I guess the next steps will be to change the oil pressure switch and ATF. A very big thanks to all of you who helped me out with info. Now, how do I change out the oil pressure switch at the back of the head? > SUCCESS !!! I am happy to report that I have this puppy purring like > a tamed tiger. My intake manifold refurbishing seemed to do the > trick. Congrats. > Note: I didn't use any RTV sealant on gaskets because I > suspect (I could be wrong) that it degrades the gasket material. Well, it (RTV, aka silicone sealant) makes great gaskets. But you do run the risk of fouling your O2 sensor(s), so best not to use it much.  Signature-Fred W "noobiedoobie" <robinLdillon@gmail.com> wrote in message SUCCESS !!! I am happy to report that I have this puppy purring like a tamed tiger. My intake manifold refurbishing seemed to do the trick. Note: I didn't use any RTV sealant on gaskets because I suspect (I could be wrong) that it degrades the gasket material. I also cleaned out the spark plugs, ICV and air meter and throttle, and replaced the PCV hose. Total cost about 40 bucks Canadian, and about 8 hours of labour. I did change the oil and filter and used some fuel injector cleaner in the gasoline tank. I guess the next steps will be to change the oil pressure switch and ATF. A very big thanks to all of you who helped me out with info. Now, how do I change out the oil pressure switch at the back of the head? ----- It's located on the driver's side at the firewall end of the head.It just screws into the head. I think it's a 19mm or 21mm wrench. You just need enough grab to break it loose, then it will finger turn out. 5 minute job and about $12. Hopefully you can reach it with all the stuff back on! Congrats on the better running. Bill in Omaha '86 535i > It's located on the driver's side at the firewall end of the head.It just > screws into the head. I think it's a 19mm or 21mm wrench. You just need > enough grab to break it loose, then it will finger turn out. 5 minute job > and about $12. ... and I think that includes buying the wrench. It's at least a 21; maybe a 22 mm. I've never paid more than $8 for the sender. -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; done that) > > It's located on the driver's side at the firewall end of the head.It just > > screws into the head. I think it's a 19mm or 21mm wrench. You just need [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > C.R. Krieger > (Been there; done that) I may have to buy another one. The one I bought from the dealer today I clutzed down onto the transmission housing. Where could I find the cheapest one? And that hex nut was a big one. I didn't have the correct socket so I had to MacGyver it with an adjustable wrench. Ebay? > "noobiedoobie" <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Bill in Omaha > '86 535i Got a problem...I accidentally dropped the new oil pressure switch onto the transmission housing. I heard it roll all the way to the back somewhere towards the rear of the vehicle. There's 20 bucks down the drain, unless you can help me find a way to get it out. Can I access the top of the transmission from the interior of the vehicle perhaps through the dashboard somehow? I really don't want to take apart the intake manifold again...what a hassle. Help me...save 20 bucks...please... > > "noobiedoobie" <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > apart the intake manifold again...what a hassle. Help me...save 20 > bucks...please... It's on top of the heat shield, between the underbody and the driveline. Jack up one side of the car and undo the screws along one side of the heat shield. Stick your hand in there to get the switch. I'd tap the heat shield to determine where the switch rolled to (kinda like finding a stud inside a wall). Bill in Omaha '86 535i > > > "noobiedoobie" <robinLdil...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Now that the oil switch has been replaced, I have no more oil leaking and the car doesn't smell of oil after I have been driving it. The leaky oil switch is placed right over the #6 air intake vent, such that when it was leaking it spilled oil right onto the gasket and eventually over time, the oil got into the air intake and minute amounts of burnt oil made their way out of the exhaust resulting in the foul odour. Now it is completely gone! What a great remedy. Unbelievable. Just an FYI, I am just about ready to strap on the hydroxy generator. What is the official mileage claim for a 91 535i? >I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a >leak in the air intake manifold as well as an engine oil leak. Price [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >Thanks, >Noobiedoobie Why don't you go for the whole enchilada? Strap a titan missile to the trunk! On Apr 18, 1:00 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: > >I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a > >leak in theairintakemanifoldas well as an engine oil leak. Price [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Why don't you go for the whole enchilada? Strap a titan missile to the trunk! That's down the line, my friend, down the line and far in the north of the country sometime after my hydrogen booster has cleaned out this old engine. I think you misunderstood what I meant by the hydrogen booster. It's a simple electrolysis unit that you can make at home for under 40 or so bucks that splits regular tap water into HHO gas and this is sucked up into the air intake such that the gasoline gets a complete burn because hydrogen burns cleaner than anything else in the universe and doesn't even require oxygen to do so. This will clear out all of the gunk and deposits in the cylinders very quickly, and I hope increase mileage by at least 25%. If you want I'll keep you posted on my progress. I envision everybody going out and scoring a great deal on an old beat up car and strapping on hydrogen boosters! Since this is a BMW, it will be all the more sweeter. >On Apr 18, 1:00 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >a great deal on an old beat up car and strapping on hydrogen >boosters! Since this is a BMW, it will be all the more sweeter. Lets have the schematics and plans - I'd be very interested as the gas over here is like gold dust.......................! email to hsg@h-gee.co.uk <snip> > It's a simple electrolysis unit that you can make at home > for under 40 or so bucks that splits regular tap water into HHO gas > and this is sucked up into the air intake such that the gasoline gets > a complete burn because hydrogen burns cleaner than anything else in > the universe and doesn't even require oxygen to do so. <snip> Sorry, but I'm afraid that hydrogen _does_ require oxygen to burn, though the engine will adjust the fuel mix based on the hydrogen intake as long as the adjustment falls within the maps in the ECU (else it will try as hard as it can and then light the MIL, aka check engine light). So it might or might not be necessary to add O2 to the mix to get the thing to run right if all you do is keep the H from the electrolysis. Further, you'll have a _very_ explosive mix sitting around if you trap both the H and the O2 from electrolysis and store them together...and in perfect proportion. This is the basis of FAEs (fuel-air explosives) but using pure H and O2 goes one better since atmospheric air is only 21% or so O2. There's no way you can collect enough of this combination of gases top be useful without compressing it, and compressing both together will be very hazardous. Not to mention having it in the car in case of an accident (assuming you even succeed in compressing it without it going bang!). I hope this isn't what you're planning. If it is, I hope I'm not near where you live or plan to operate this vehicle and that innocent people are not injured. Moreover, the energy spent splitting water into hydrogen and O2 will not be regained in internal combustion no matter how you handle it. Unless electricity is *dirt* cheap where you live, or you're using a renewable primary energy source to generate it, you'll lose money on the deal. JRE > robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > JRE You are old school, my friend. Obviously, the energy put into splitting is greater or equal to than the energy gained, and the power of hydrogen and oxygen combined is what NASA uses, but that is not how this works. There is NO onboard storage of explosive gases. It is produced as needed. The HHO or Brown's gas (there are debates as to what is being produced exactly) helps the octane to completely burn, whereas in a normal situation the octane is still burning as it leaves the exhaust and relies on the catalytic converter to finish the job. The minute amount of hydrogen is sort of like a catalyst that reduces the time it takes for the octane to ignite so it burns faster during the combustion cycle and therefore more completely resulting in more power and increased mileage. There are many companies, led by the Canadian ones who are already marketing these electrolysis units and many truckers already have been using them for over a decade. On Apr 19, 3:13 pm, robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: > > robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 48 lines] > Canadian ones who are already marketing these electrolysis units and > many truckers already have been using them for over a decade.- Mythbusters did something liek this where they produced hydrogen and allowed it to be sucked into the intake along with air, instead of using gas(oline). It ran fine for a short while then the hydrogen ran out. > On Apr 19, 3:13 pm, robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 57 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Yes! It is absolutely possible and feasible to run an ICE on Hydrogen. But I won't be using hydrogen alone. I will simply be helping the octane to burn better in the engine by adding a little tiny stream of Hydrogen. Much safer. >> On Apr 19, 3:13 pm, robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] >helping the octane to burn better in the engine by adding a little >tiny stream of Hydrogen. Much safer. What exactly is OCTANE? Octane is an Alkaline with the chemical formula CH3(CH2)6CH3. It has 18 isomers. One of the isomers, 2,2,4-trimethylpentane or isooctane, is of major importance, as it has been selected as the 100 point on the octane rating scale, with n-heptane as the zero point. Octane ratings are ratings used to represent the anti-knock performance of petroleum-based fuels (octane is less likely to prematurely combust under pressure than heptane), given as the percentage of 2,2,4-trimethylpentane in an 2,2,4-trimethylpentane / n-heptane mixture that would have the same performance. It is an important constituent of gasoline. Octane has 18 isomers : Octane (n-octane) 2-Methylheptane 3-Methylheptane 4-Methylheptane 3-Ethylhexane 2,2-Dimethylhexane 2,3-Dimethylhexane 2,4-Dimethylhexane 2,5-Dimethylhexane 3,3-Dimethylhexane 3,4-Dimethylhexane 2-Methyl-3-ethylpentane 3-Methyl-3-ethylpentane 2,2,3-Trimethylpentane 2,2,4-Trimethylpentane (isooctane) 2,3,3-Trimethylpentane 2,3,4-Trimethylpentane 2,2,3,3-Tetramethylbutane And you CAN actually distinguish the combustion of OCTANE in gasoline/petrol. Do leave off! On Apr 19, 1:09 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: > >> On Apr 19, 3:13 pm, robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 101 lines] > > - Show quoted text - You're an Einstein with a bit of a Ham-ish glitter thrown in. Wow, incredible breakdown of the constituents of gasoline, buddy. I am impressed and informed. But did I say I could distinguish? It matters not. Hydrogen helps in the combustion of all of these organic (hydrocarbon) molecules. You could even add up to 15% ethanol (or ethane if you had it on hand, but unlikely since its a gas) which contains two carbon atoms per molecule and the pistons would still love it. On Apr 19, 12:09 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: > Octane is an Alkaline with the chemical formula CH3(CH2)6CH3. Octane is an ALKANE, not an ALKALINE. Damn faux chemists ... -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; done that - as a chemist) >On Apr 19, 12:09 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Damn faux chemists ... I claim the effing spelchecker - ALKANE is not in general usage in everyday language---------------- Oops >> robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] >splitting is greater or equal to than the energy gained, and the power >of hydrogen and oxygen combined is what NASA uses You mean the Space Shuttle runs on WATER? By god man that's astounding! > but that is not how >this works. There is NO onboard storage of explosive gases. It is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >Canadian ones who are already marketing these electrolysis units and >many truckers already have been using them for over a decade. On Apr 19, 12:54 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: > >> robinLdil...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] > > - Show quoted text - You're a real Einstein, aren't ya? Of course the space shuttle doesn't run off of water, the booster rockets do. More specifically, the recombination of hydrogen and oxygen into water which releases more energy per unit of reactant than any other combination. That's why NASA uses it, among other reasons like...pollution. This has zero emissions. >On Apr 19, 12:54 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 61 lines] >You're a real Einstein, aren't ya? Of course the space shuttle >doesn't run off of water, the booster rockets do. I don't think so - they actually run on solid paraffin (kerosene) strangely enough that's why they are called "solid booster rockets" > More specifically, >the recombination of hydrogen and oxygen into water which releases >more energy per unit of reactant than any other combination. That's >why NASA uses it, among other reasons like...pollution. This has zero >emissions. > >On Apr 19, 12:54 pm, O...@nowhere.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 74 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Yes, actually you are correct. I should check on my facts a little better. NASA did early experiments with liquid fuel and considered using liquid fuel to replace the more dangerous solid rocket fuel after the Challenger disaster. NASA has worked with other space programs in developing the liquid fuel, though such as Russia and with Japan and their rocket technology. Considering the dangerous nature of solid rocket fuel with the equivalent power of liquid fuel, I think the liquid fuel is a more robust choice, and NASA should switch back ASAP. > On 20 Apr 2007 06:13:25 -0700, robinLdillon@gmail.com wrote: >>You're a real Einstein, aren't ya? Of course the space shuttle >>doesn't run off of water, the booster rockets do. > > I don't think so - they actually run on solid paraffin (kerosene) > strangely > enough that's why they are called "solid booster rockets" You guys are hilarious. The boosters use a mixture of potasium permanganate and aluminum, embedded in a special type of rubber. All you have to do is read the Wikipedia entry on SRB. FloydR >> On 20 Apr 2007 06:13:25 -0700, robinLdillon@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >FloydR I wondered what they did with old tyres (tires) > <Oscar@nowhere.com> wrote > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > All you have to do is read the Wikipedia entry on SRB. Why I wrote "potasium permangate" when I meant "ammonium perchlorate" is beyond me. FloydR >> <Oscar@nowhere.com> wrote >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > >FloydR Well Floyd - have a cup of coffee on me! |
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