Most mechanics would peen down the raised bolt holes on the flange where they
have been tightened and caused high spots.

When a new gasket is fitted and the bolts torqued (if they were) then the high
spots would meet the block first leaving the bits in between loose so oil can
seep out.

Good shop - bad mechanic it seems.

The ONLY way to get a sump pan to sit on the block is if the mating surfaces are
reasonably FLAT.  Also a good coating of HYLOMAR jointing compound helps - use a
silicon sealer if you wish - reduce any surface anomalies that can cause a leak.

Also make sure it isn't coming from the front or rear bearing /crankshaft nose
oil seal.  If the crankcase breathers become blocked or there is excessive
crankcase pressure the neoprene seals will allow oil to seep past and drip or
run along the sump pan and drip on the floor.

125K isn't a high mileage.

In relation to the "better gasket"  it's a "BETTER MECHANIC" you need.