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Car Forum / BMW Cars / April 20082001 e39 530i 5-spd 91,00 miles. Starts with jumpers but stalls when jumper cables removed.
My son started it fine. Drove about 4-5 miles and the engine stalled and would not restart. He notice a pop in the radio at the time. I tested the battery at about 11.9 volts when I arrived to jump it. It started and then stalled as soon as I removed the jumper cable. I suspect the alternator brushes except, it does not seem like enough mileage for the brushes to be worn out. I would be most grateful for your thoughts. At RealOEM.com (last 7 digits of VIN are ce91161 ) I see that this car could have any one of the following alternator setups 90A Valeo 120A Bosch 120A/140A Valeo. How do I determine the alternator type? Is this info in the owner's manual?I left the manual in the car when I had it towed to the workplace. I have not research any of the codes found with my PEAKE reader All code are in Table 19 76 Throttle position sensor - thank you son. 64 Memory self test control module defective 45 Fuel Pump Relay 23 Secondary Air Pump Relay 3e Seconday Air System switching valve circuit 8c DM-TL pump control circuit 7e DM-TL switching solenoid d1 EWS Message 7c DISA control Many Thanks in advance. >My son started it fine. Drove about 4-5 miles and the engine stalled and >would not restart. Was the alternator light on at the time? Was he even watching for it? >He notice a pop in the radio at the time. I tested the battery at about >11.9 volts when I arrived to jump it. It started and then stalled as >soon as I removed the jumper cable. I suspect the alternator brushes >except, it does not seem like enough mileage for the brushes to be worn >out. I would be most grateful for your thoughts. Could be all sorts of alternator failures, and could also be the fusible links on the alternator too. Do you measure voltage at the alternator terminals? If so, the alternator is connected properly to the battery. If you disconnect the battery and stick an ammeter onto it, can you see if something is discharging the battery? One of the more popular regulator failure modes will show up with the alternator discharging the battery. If the alternator is connected to the battery but does not put out enough current to charge the battery or operate the car, it is bad. >At RealOEM.com (last 7 >digits of VIN are ce91161 ) [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >How do I determine the alternator type? Is this info in the owner's >manual?I left the manual in the car when I had it towed to the workplace. It doesn't matter. They should have basically the same configuration and the same issues. If yours turns out to be bad, take it to the dealer and get a replacement. >I have not research any of the codes found with my PEAKE reader >All code are in Table 19 >76 Throttle position sensor - thank you son. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >7c DISA control >Many Thanks in advance. If the engine control has been running without proper supply voltage, all hell will break loose and you will get a million codes registered. You can ignore all of them. They are all symptoms of the low voltage and not the cause of it. --scott  Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." >> My son started it fine. Drove about 4-5 miles and the engine stalled and >> would not restart. [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] > and not the cause of it. > --scott Many thanks. Good comments. I will try to check it all out.
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