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Car Forum / BMW Cars / August 2008

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re: engine check light and brake fluid indicators in dash

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gshanemiller@verizon.net - 02 Aug 2008 01:55 GMT
I have a 1997 BMW 740il with ~ 132K miles. I need assistance with two
items:

- the engine check indicator (yellow, far left in dash display)
- brake fluid warning (both the red indicator far right in dash
display + centered via orange LED display)

remain on. One mechanic told me the brake fluid indicators are a false
negative. The pads, rotors have been replace recently and the fluid is
not low. I've had the check engine light checked several times.
Apparently one mechanic told me he fixed it --- found a broken wire or
missing ground -- but a second mechanic found the wire glued i.e. he
implied the first mechanic never fixed the problem and did a cheat/
work-a-around to shut it off.

Bottom line: my wife won't drive it an I'll always wonder if I am
ignoring a real problem.

Is some off the shelf H/W I can run to read the codes form the BMW
computer and/or reset them? Is there anything I can do besides throw
money at a reputable BMW mechanic (I don't trust dealers too much).

Shane
gshanemiller@verizon.net - 02 Aug 2008 02:09 GMT
On Aug 1, 8:55 pm, gshanemil...@verizon.net wrote:
> I have a 1997 BMW 740il with ~ 132K miles. I need assistance with two
> items:
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> Shane

Subsequently determined can purchase a tool to list and reset engine
codes via product here:

www.bavauto.com
gshanemiller@verizon.net - 02 Aug 2008 02:23 GMT
On Aug 1, 9:09 pm, gshanemil...@verizon.net wrote:
> On Aug 1, 8:55 pm, gshanemil...@verizon.net wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> www.bavauto.com

One final thought: the brake fluid indicator came on just after the
last mechanic changed the pads and rotors. Now that probably mean the
hoses with brake fluid were opened. Possibly something was not put
back right - or there's a blockage or air in the system.
Jeff Strickland - 02 Aug 2008 02:29 GMT
> On Aug 1, 9:09 pm, gshanemil...@verizon.net wrote:
>> On Aug 1, 8:55 pm, gshanemil...@verizon.net wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>>
>> www.bavauto.com

You can drive down the corner parts store and buy any of several different
brands and models of scan tools. Expect a good balance of features and price
to come in at about $100-ish.

> One final thought: the brake fluid indicator came on just after the
> last mechanic changed the pads and rotors. Now that probably mean the
> hoses with brake fluid were opened. Possibly something was not put
> back right - or there's a blockage or air in the system.

There is no need to open a brake line to replace pads and rotors.
R. Mark Clayton - 02 Aug 2008 14:29 GMT
The engine check light comes on steady yellow because it thinks your
emissions are high.  Mine does this after a lot of short runs because it
wants a new 'lambda' sensor, but in reality the emissions are rock bottom.
If the light is red or flashing and / or the display says "check engine",
transmission etc. then either you have a failing battery or a big problem.

The brake warning is almost certainly because either your mechanic did not
refit the pad wear sensors, or if they were activated (worn through), did
not replace them (they cost a few dollars).  Failure or poor connection to
an ABS sensor can also bring the brake warning light on (yellow IIRC),  but
also brings on ABS, and DSC lights and confuses the satnav.

Sounds to me like your mechanic is either not very good and / or economical
with the truth.

> On Aug 1, 9:09 pm, gshanemil...@verizon.net wrote:
>> On Aug 1, 8:55 pm, gshanemil...@verizon.net wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> hoses with brake fluid were opened. Possibly something was not put
> back right - or there's a blockage or air in the system.
gshanemiller@verizon.net - 02 Aug 2008 14:42 GMT
On Aug 2, 9:29 am, "R. Mark Clayton" <nospamclay...@btinternet.com>
wrote:
> The engine check light comes on steady yellow because it thinks your
> emissions are high.  Mine does this after a lot of short runs because it
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
> > hoses with brake fluid were opened. Possibly something was not put
> > back right - or there's a blockage or air in the system.

I've ordered a code reader - reads both industry std. and BMW codes.
Thank you other posters for tips. Nothing was done with the pad wear
sensors - although as I novice I don't see why that would enable the
fluid sensor.
Jeff Strickland - 02 Aug 2008 17:16 GMT
I've ordered a code reader - reads both industry std. and BMW codes.
Thank you other posters for tips. Nothing was done with the pad wear
sensors - although as I novice I don't see why that would enable the
fluid sensor.

<JS>

Your instinct is correct, the wear sensor should turn on a different warning
light than the Low Fluid sensor.

Taking a giant leap of faith here, my '94 325i Owner's Manual clearly
indicates the fluid and wear warning lights as being different. The fluid
light says BRAKE FLUID, and the wear warning is a circle with dotted lines
around it at the 9:00 and 3:00 sides.

Your '97 7 Series could be different, but as an engineer I would expect the
difference to be very minor if there is one.

</JS
Scott Dorsey - 02 Aug 2008 02:26 GMT
In article <dd3c57bb-8192-4677-9d24-3107b408076b@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com>,
>I have a 1997 BMW 740il with ~ 132K miles. I need assistance with two
>items:
>
>- the engine check indicator (yellow, far left in dash display)

This means the computer has logged an error.  You need to find out what
the error is, so you have some idea what the problem is.

>- brake fluid warning (both the red indicator far right in dash
>display + centered via orange LED display)
>
>remain on. One mechanic told me the brake fluid indicators are a false
>negative. The pads, rotors have been replace recently and the fluid is
>not low. I've had the check engine light checked several times.

So, fix it.  There are several brake pressure switches that need to be
open for the light to go out.   Check them all with a meter until you
find the one giving the spurious warning.

>Apparently one mechanic told me he fixed it --- found a broken wire or
>missing ground -- but a second mechanic found the wire glued i.e. he
>implied the first mechanic never fixed the problem and did a cheat/
>work-a-around to shut it off.

Do you know which wire it was, where?  

>Bottom line: my wife won't drive it an I'll always wonder if I am
>ignoring a real problem.

It sounds like you need a competent mechanic before anything else.

>Is some off the shelf H/W I can run to read the codes form the BMW
>computer and/or reset them? Is there anything I can do besides throw
>money at a reputable BMW mechanic (I don't trust dealers too much).

Autozone will read the codes for you for free, although their reader
won't do some of the BMW-specific codes.  Once you have the codes, you
at least have some notion of where to start looking for the problem.

The brake issue is a big one, though.  Get the wiring diagram for
your car (the .pdf is probably on the web somewhere) and start tracing
with a meter.
--scott
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