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Car Forum / BMW Cars / December 2008E46 Questions
I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and I've been experiencing the following problems: Steering wheel wobbles when braking, usually when slowing down from high speeds. Random air blasts thru the vents. Air strength indicator light stays at the same level, but it will inexplicably burst out air at what feels like the highest level, then go back down again. Gas gauge no longer accurate. I ran out of gas when the indicator showed 1/8 tank full (light was on). Now I have to get gas at the 1/4 level mark just to be safe. Any input on what might be going on with any of these problems is greatly appreciated. Thanks! > I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and I've > been experiencing the following problems: You are correct - your '01 is an E46 > Steering wheel wobbles when braking, usually when slowing down from high > speeds. Front brake rotors are probably warped. > Random air blasts thru the vents. Air strength indicator light stays at > the same level, but it will inexplicably burst out air at what feels like > the highest level, then go back down again. There is a resistor which causes these symptoms when it fails. Tom K. >I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and I've >been experiencing the following problems: > >Steering wheel wobbles when braking, usually when slowing down from high >speeds. Warped front rotors. Time for a brake jub. >Random air blasts thru the vents. Air strength indicator light stays at the >same level, but it will inexplicably burst out air at what feels like the >highest level, then go back down again. Does this happen with the fan turned off completely? If so, it is the resistor pack for the motor (which is actually more than a resistor pack). >Gas gauge no longer accurate. I ran out of gas when the indicator showed >1/8 tank full (light was on). Now I have to get gas at the 1/4 level mark >just to be safe. Could be all kinds of things, but a flaky sending unit is high on the list. --scott  Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." Thanks for the replies. Checking my records, I had both front brake pads and rotors replaced by the BMW service dept in April 2007 (82,000 miles). Is it conceivable I need this kind of work done again 20 months and only 18,000 miles later? > Thanks for the replies. > > Checking my records, I had both front brake pads and rotors replaced by the > BMW service dept in April 2007 (82,000 miles). Is it conceivable I need > this kind of work done again 20 months and only 18,000 miles later? dunno bout the work .. but someone has to take a peek in there. >Thanks for the replies. > >Checking my records, I had both front brake pads and rotors replaced by the >BMW service dept in April 2007 (82,000 miles). Is it conceivable I need >this kind of work done again 20 months and only 18,000 miles later? Yes, if they did a sloppy job or if the kids at the tire store overtightened your lug nuts and wrecked the rotors. Or if you have a problem somewhere else that is causing the rotors to be damaged. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." > Yes, if they did a sloppy job or if the kids at the tire store > overtightened your lug nuts and wrecked the rotors. I've often heard this explanation but it doesn't make sense to me - you're clamping a very thick lump of iron in the form of the disc to another - the hub. Since those are both flat surfaces how can increasing the clamping effort (within reason) cause one to distort - but not the other? Signature*When did my wild oats turn to prunes and all bran? Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > Since those are both flat surfaces how can increasing the > clamping effort (within reason) cause one to distort - but not the > other? they try to machine these things rather sharply and with little variance as you are noting ... however these 10,000 piece clockworks ... are made by humans who are failable, and that quirk goes in to the metal. Every once in a while (I think they got it down at the 2% mark now) ... a so called lemmon is produced. These so called lemmon cars are then used with test dummies ... to prove things out in the real world .. and make a better car, airplane, motorcycle, etc. Fault analysis. These lemmons, are just clockworks of 10,000 parts in a confluence of events, that WILL NOT FIT, never will fit, and don't matter what you try it is not going to work. A confluence of events coming to a peak or 'sh.t happens' .. it is the human hand at work ... variation in the species if you want to get Darwin about it. So what ever we create .. it is thus so. Sooooooooooo .... when these 'flat parts' are put together and you torque the crap outta them, that 2% fault pattern ... appears. It is why they crash em up ... or take a small part of it ... and tear away and see a small crash up. Have to fix. An OIL LEAK .. on the side of the engine ... will make a COOL SPOT on the block, the pistons and such will 'wear' away in a warp running engine .. and over time it is trash. When a deep maintence issue comes up eventually, and sooner with a warped engine ... you crack the case ... you toss it away .. it is warped. And worn away in the warp ... it is toast. So oil leaks are sometimes very important to fix ... other leaks are not a problem at all .. and happen a little. Your BMW certified mechanic will sort that out for you ... they write you have a rip in your rubber boot ... ask then when it is a good time to sort that out down the road. You see written there is an oil leak from last time there was a repair there or not .. .it just deteroiated over time and heat ... rag wipe to see how it works for the next road trip ... bring it back ... keep them in the know that this stuff is on the back burner cooking. It is a penny wise / pound foolish connundrem your mechanic and you are working out .. your mechanic ... he or she ... only wants to replace what is broken and fails testing. Otherwise keep it running .. it is good. sumbuddie hopes that helps :) >> Since those are both flat surfaces how can increasing the >> clamping effort (within reason) cause one to distort - but not the [quoted text clipped - 48 lines] > >:) See the spelling needs attention too! > See the spelling needs attention too! only for the thick of mind ... those with more heuristic knowledge at their disposal ... get the tripple entendres from time to time. oh ha ha sort of thing. sumbuddie wear blind sea gold on the streets > in article 500ae57f5fdave@davenoise.co.uk, Dave Plowman (News) > at [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > are made by > humans who are failable, and that quirk goes in to the metal. Nonsense. Production hubs, brake discs, or rotors if you prefer, are made by automatic programmed machines. Once set up, the machine controls what is actually produced, and the chance of it machining a disc or hub with a varying thicknesses of the mounting faces, is remote indeed. And the idea that overtightening a 'lug nut' can cause a noticeable runout of a disc doesn't stand up to scrutiny. It's more likely to damage a wheel rather than have any effect on the braking. Mike.UK > And the idea that overtightening a 'lug nut' can cause a > noticeable runout of a disc doesn't stand up to scrutiny. It's > more likely to damage a wheel rather than have any effect on the > braking. My thoughts too - although it's likely to strip the thread long before that. Signature*Virtual reality is its own reward * Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >> And the idea that overtightening a 'lug nut' can cause a >> noticeable runout of a disc doesn't stand up to scrutiny. It's [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >My thoughts too - although it's likely to strip the thread long before >that. The issue seems to be a matter of one side being too tight and the other side being too loose. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." > >> And the idea that overtightening a 'lug nut' can cause a > >> noticeable runout of a disc doesn't stand up to scrutiny. It's [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >My thoughts too - although it's likely to strip the thread long before > >that. > The issue seems to be a matter of one side being too tight and the other > side being too loose. I'm still to be convinced this would cause them to warp. By nature wheel fixings have a vast tolerance. Signature*Sorry, I don't date outside my species. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >> And the idea that overtightening a 'lug nut' can cause a >> noticeable runout of a disc doesn't stand up to scrutiny. It's [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > before > that. Maybe with wheels that use flat seated wheel bolts or nuts, but I don't think it's very likely for those that have taper seats, like most BMW wheels. IMO it's more likely for the taper seat to crack before any threads are stripped. Mike. > Nonsense. > Production hubs, brake discs, or rotors if you prefer, are made > by automatic programmed machines. > Once set up, the machine controls what is actually produced, and > the chance of it machining a disc or hub with a varying > thicknesses of the mounting faces, is remote indeed. humans made the machines ... that make the hubs ... and humans run the machines so the variance still appears and these 10,000 piece clockwork mechanical wonders will not work ... period. since you got the nonsense going on ... then you answer where 'lemmons' come from since you so smart !!! >then you answer where 'lemmons' come from since you so smart !!! I think they got their big break on the Lawrence Welk show. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." >>then you answer where 'lemmons' come from since you so smart !!! > >I think they got their big break on the Lawrence Welk show. I'm pretty sure he's referring to Vladimir and his son John. ::jed '04 M3 >>>then you answer where 'lemmons' come from since you so smart !!! >> >>I think they got their big break on the Lawrence Welk show. > > I'm pretty sure he's referring to Vladimir and his son John. Aren't those the furry little critters who always follow their leader, no matter what? Tom > in article 6q7pjbFbc1ffU1@mid.individual.net, Mike G at > metier@largefoot.com [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > run the > machines Humans don't run automatic machines. Humans only set them up. Once programmed, they work without human interference. They may be loaded manually, but the actuall machining is done by the machine. Not manually by an operator. That's why they're called automatic. so the variance still appears and these 10,000 piece clockwork > mechanical wonders will not work ... period. You obviously know little about automated production, or automatic machines, otherwise you wouldn't be arguing in such simplistic terms. > since you got the nonsense going on ... > > then you answer where 'lemmons' come from since you so smart > !!! I'm not particularly smart. You could have found out for yourself with a quick google. Apparently most come from bad design or manufacture, as certain makes and/or models seem to be much more prone to problems than others. IMO bad design is the primary reason for lemons, (not lemmons BTW) I don't know of any cars that are called lemons due to innacurate machining of components. Maybe you can enlighten me? Mike. >Thanks for the replies. > >Checking my records, I had both front brake pads and rotors replaced by the >BMW service dept in April 2007 (82,000 miles). Is it conceivable I need >this kind of work done again 20 months and only 18,000 miles later? Like Dave said, probably the front bushings need replacing. I had steering wheel vibration on my 2000 328i. Turned out the front wheels were out of balance. Have you hit a curb or thrown a weight? Just a thought Jeff > Thanks for the replies. > > Checking my records, I had both front brake pads and rotors replaced by > the BMW service dept in April 2007 (82,000 miles). Is it conceivable I > need this kind of work done again 20 months and only 18,000 miles later? > Steering wheel wobbles when braking, usually when slowing down from high > speeds. maybe a wheel nut needs tightening (doubt it since these are torqued on each time by the good BMW certified mechanic) ... but maybe you tossed a wheel weight. Wobbles on turns as well ... then caster/camber is out for some reason ... maybe losing a ball joint in the steering suspension. >> Steering wheel wobbles when braking, usually when slowing down from high >> speeds. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Wobbles on turns as well ... then caster/camber is out for some reason ... >maybe losing a ball joint in the steering suspension. I would have a knowledgeable mechanic check the reaction bushings that connect the lower control arm to the frame. Once they start to crack you can get the symptoms you described. RJD >> Wobbles on turns as well ... then caster/camber is out for some reason ... >> maybe losing a ball joint in the steering suspension. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > RJD there you go ... ditto what he said. > I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and > I've been experiencing the following problems: > Steering wheel wobbles when braking, usually when slowing down from high > speeds. Often a symptom of worn thrust arm bushes. > Random air blasts thru the vents. Air strength indicator light stays at > the same level, but it will inexplicably burst out air at what feels > like the highest level, then go back down again. What's known as the final stage resistor - which controls the fan speed. > Gas gauge no longer accurate. I ran out of gas when the indicator > showed 1/8 tank full (light was on). Now I have to get gas at the 1/4 > level mark just to be safe. I *think* they use two level sensors to compensate for an incline or other fuel movement in the tank. Could be one has failed. > Any input on what might be going on with any of these problems is > greatly appreciated. Thanks! Signature*Why do we say something is out of whack? What is a whack? Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. Thanks again for all replies. Very much appreciated. >> I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and >> I've been experiencing the following problems: [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >> Any input on what might be going on with any of these problems is >> greatly appreciated. Thanks! >> I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and >> I've been experiencing the following problems: [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Often a symptom of worn thrust arm bushes. Good call, Dave. I called brake rotors, but this one is good too. >> Random air blasts thru the vents. Air strength indicator light stays at >> the same level, but it will inexplicably burst out air at what feels [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > I *think* they use two level sensors to compensate for an incline or other > fuel movement in the tank. Could be one has failed. The reason they use two is that there are two fuel cells separated by the drive shaft. The level of fuel is balanced by an internal pump, but the level in the two cells can be different. Took it to the tire place, they rebalanced the front wheels, and it now runs fine. Thanks again for the replies! > I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and I've > been experiencing the following problems: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Any input on what might be going on with any of these problems is greatly > appreciated. Thanks! > I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and I've > been experiencing the following problems: > > Steering wheel wobbles when braking, usually when slowing down from high > speeds. Warped rotors. > Random air blasts thru the vents. Air strength indicator light stays at > the same level, but it will inexplicably burst out air at what feels like > the highest level, then go back down again. > Gas gauge no longer accurate. I ran out of gas when the indicator showed > 1/8 tank full (light was on). Now I have to get gas at the 1/4 level mark > just to be safe. Fuel level sending unit. There is an exposed (on my car) rheostat that gets dirty from the crap in the gas. You can clean the rheostat when the sending unit is removed from the gas tank. The official fix for this is to replace the sending unit. >> I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and >> I've been experiencing the following problems: [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Warped rotors. You're a day late & a dollar short, Jeff. He already posted that wheel balancing fixed the problem. Tom >>> I'm not used to the "E" number vernacular but I have a 2001 330i, and >>> I've been experiencing the following problems: [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > balancing fixed the problem. > Tom Yeah, I saw that after I replied. While balancing might have fixed the trouble for now, wheel balance issues normally manifest themselves as a vibration at a certain speed, that goes away at speeds above or below the problem speed. This is a function of harmonics, the rotation of the out-of-balance weight can be felt at one speed, but not at another. Vibrations that come from pressing the brake pedal are normally caused by warped rotors or worn suspension bushings, or a combination of both. I could be wrong. All I'm saying is that the repair action does not fit the symptom. The symptom could be different than described, or the repair is masking symptom until it progresses. > While balancing might have fixed the trouble for now, wheel balance issues > normally manifest themselves as a vibration at a certain speed, that goes [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > the symptom. The symptom could be different than described, or the repair > is masking symptom until it progresses. Agreed - I mentioned possible warped rotors in my original reply. But maybe there's a placebo effect from balancing... Tom |
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