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Car Forum / BMW Cars / March 2004

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Spark problems Help 87 325is

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BK - 27 Feb 2004 21:25 GMT
Here is what we have done to try and fix.

Coil
Crank Sensor
New plug wire
cap and rotor

There seems to be spark going to the rotor but not to the plugs. Can anyone
suggest a fix for this?
this is a 1987 325is.

thanks

BmwM1
please answer to my email. I will check on here too.
Steve Burley - 28 Feb 2004 04:34 GMT
I had the same problem and checked and replaced the same items you have.
Turned out it was the plug leads.  When I was testing them off the car with
the ohm-meter they were fine but when installed they were bent in such a way
that spark wasn't getting through on two leads - enough to enusre the car
didn't fire at all.

Steve

> Here is what we have done to try and fix.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> BmwM1
> please answer to my email. I will check on here too.
Fred W. - 29 Feb 2004 18:19 GMT
> Here is what we have done to try and fix.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> BmwM1
> please answer to my email. I will check on here too.

Also, make sure the engine is properly grounded.  That spark has to have
someplace to go...

-Fred W
Fitzy - 29 Feb 2004 20:17 GMT
> > Here is what we have done to try and fix.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> -Fred W

Also check the rotor is actually spinning when cranking the engine, !!
could be the timing belt has stripped a few teeth,
( assuming this is the M20 engine)
I hope I am wrong ,

Peter
Fred W. - 01 Mar 2004 16:12 GMT
> Also check the rotor is actually spinning when cranking the engine, !!
> could be the timing belt has stripped a few teeth,
> ( assuming this is the M20 engine)
> I hope I am wrong ,

If that had happened he would have lost compression in at least a couple of
cylinders which would be noticeable when cranking.
Fitzy - 02 Mar 2004 20:19 GMT
> > Also check the rotor is actually spinning when cranking the engine, !!
> > could be the timing belt has stripped a few teeth,
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> If that had happened he would have lost compression in at least a couple of
> cylinders which would be noticeable when cranking.

Quite true Fred,,,,

But I have known people to run the battery flat trying to start a dead
engine due to cam belt failure,
They just continued cranking the engine until the pistons bend the valves ,
a comp test sounds like a good idea though,,,
Peter
BK - 02 Mar 2004 22:24 GMT
Checked it all out and everything is fine. There is also injector pulse.
just no spark getting to the new plug wires.

> > > Also check the rotor is actually spinning when cranking the engine, !!
> > > could be the timing belt has stripped a few teeth,
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> a comp test sounds like a good idea though,,,
> Peter
Steve Burley - 03 Mar 2004 04:49 GMT
Check the crackshaft position sensor, which sits in front of the cam-belt
cover.  It should have about a 2mm gap between itself and the bottom pulley.
If it's failed or the gap is too big the car won't run.  It's very easy for
it to get knocked out of place if you're messing around with leads etc.
Check wiring to the sensor too.

Steve

> Checked it all out and everything is fine. There is also injector pulse.
> just no spark getting to the new plug wires.
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> > a comp test sounds like a good idea though,,,
> > Peter
Fred W. - 03 Mar 2004 12:36 GMT
> Check the crackshaft position sensor, which sits in front of the cam-belt
> cover.  It should have about a 2mm gap between itself and the bottom pulley.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Steve

Can't be that because he said he is getting a good spark from the coil.

You seem to have it narrowed down to just a few possibilities:

Coil wire to distributor. (or did you use this to verify spark from the
coil?)
Rotor
Cap
Plug wires
Plugs

I know you said that you replaced some of these parts, which makes them even
more suspect, being an unknown quantity.  In the electronics service
industry, we always first suspect the MRFWU...  Most Recently <ahem> Fiddled
With Unit...

-Fred W
Fitzy - 03 Mar 2004 18:51 GMT
> > Check the crackshaft position sensor, which sits in front of the cam-belt
> > cover.  It should have about a 2mm gap between itself and the bottom
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> -Fred W

Sorry folks
Did we establish what engine code it is,  ??
Peter
Fitzy - 03 Mar 2004 18:54 GMT
> Checked it all out and everything is fine. There is also injector pulse.
> just no spark getting to the new plug wires.

So the rotor is spinning when cranking,
and your compressions are OK
Peter

>>>snip>>>
adder - 04 Mar 2004 14:43 GMT
"Fitzy" <peterfitzpatrick@btopenworld.com> wrote in message news:<c1thd6>
> Also check the rotor is actually spinning when cranking the engine, !!
> could be the timing belt has stripped a few teeth,
> ( assuming this is the M20 engine)
> I hope I am wrong ,
>
> Peter

I had this once, althogh not on a BMW - the drive from the camshaft to
the dizzy broke so the rotor wasn't spinning.
Rod Gray - 04 Mar 2004 01:56 GMT
Use a spark tester from the coil to the distributor. If you have spark
there, put it between the distributor and the number 1 plug wire. If you
have spark there, it is a fuel problem.

> Here is what we have done to try and fix.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> BmwM1
> please answer to my email. I will check on here too.
Fitzy - 05 Mar 2004 21:09 GMT
"Fuel" ?
I see where your going Rod , but "BK" has already said there is no spark at
the plugs , but there is a spark at the rotor,
What about a quick elimination test,
remove all spark plugs, squirt 10cc of fuel in to each cylinder, replace the
spark plugs and give it a whirl,
if it is fuel, then the engine will fire up, but will only run for a second
or two

Fitzy

> Use a spark tester from the coil to the distributor. If you have spark
> there, put it between the distributor and the number 1 plug wire. If you
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> > BmwM1
> > please answer to my email. I will check on here too.
Rod Gray - 06 Mar 2004 01:20 GMT
I don't know how you are testing for spark Pull a plug wire, put a new plug
into it. and hold it against the engine while cranking it over.Do the same
for the coil wire. If the plug will fire from the coil but not from the
distributor, you are getting all the signals to and from the ECM. In that
case the distributor is not turning. Remove the cap and watch while you
crank it. Either the distributor drive lugs are broken or the timing belt is
stripped or broken.If it is the belt, you have a lot of bent valves.
Thanks FITZY I had to go back and read BK's original message. It's hell
getting old. The eyes go first, thats why they look better at 10:00 instead
of 12:00. Grins.

> Here is what we have done to try and fix.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> BmwM1
> please answer to my email. I will check on here too.
Steve Burley - 06 Mar 2004 03:07 GMT
If the car is a manual you can stick it in gear and pull it forward while
watching the rotor.  If it turns, the cambelt is probably ok.

Steve

> I don't know how you are testing for spark Pull a plug wire, put a new plug
> into it. and hold it against the engine while cranking it over.Do the same
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> > BmwM1
> > please answer to my email. I will check on here too.
Fitzy - 09 Mar 2004 01:10 GMT
> I don't know how you are testing for spark Pull a plug wire, put a new plug
> into it. and hold it against the engine while cranking it over.Do the same
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> getting old. The eyes go first, thats why they look better at 10:00 instead
> of 12:00. Grins.

Hi Rod,
When we where young,, we looked good and did everything quick,
now we're that bit older, we do everything slower, AND WE STILL LOOK GOOD,
;-)

Fitzy

> > Here is what we have done to try and fix.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> > BmwM1
> > please answer to my email. I will check on here too.
 
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