 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / BMW Cars / April 20041998 528i, Considering purchase
I have just looked at a 1998 528i, automatic, 130000km. Is there anything I should be wary of? Thanks in advance. kr >I have just looked at a 1998 528i, automatic, 130000km. >Is there anything I should be wary of? > >Thanks in advance. >kr cooling system in whole, power steering hoses.. > >I have just looked at a 1998 528i, automatic, 130000km. > >Is there anything I should be wary of? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > cooling system in whole, power steering hoses.. I have a 97 528i auto - go for it Parev, you'll like it. My only comments would be that same as buying any car - go for a low-miler with service history. I've heard the cooling system thing mentioned before, and it worries my somewhat, having had a few cars overheat and bend cylinder heads etc. Anyone got any suggestions on how to 'keep an eye' on my cooling system - hopefully to spot any potential problems before they occur? Stew > I've heard the cooling system thing mentioned before, and it worries > my somewhat, having had a few cars overheat and bend cylinder heads > etc. > Anyone got any suggestions on how to 'keep an eye' on my cooling > system - hopefully to spot any potential problems before they occur? I recently purchased a 97 528i with all the bells and whistles, including electronic privacy screens for the rear windows. It has 119K on the odometer and I knew the previous owner who had the car serviced religiously. What I find is that the "toys" break down and are expensive to replace. For instance, the power seat button on the driver's side broke and in order to pass State inspection it cost over $300 US to fix. The independent temperature control sticks and goes to 90 degrees or 60 degrees without being able to stop it. Estimated at $500 US for a new heating control unit. Can't wait until the cooling system problem surfaces..... David H. > What I find is that the "toys" break down and are expensive to > replace. > > For instance, the power seat button on the driver's side broke and in > order to pass State inspection it cost over $300 US to fix. What state requires working power seats for a safety inspection? Let me guess... CA? -Fred W >> What I find is that the "toys" break down and are expensive to >> replace. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > What state requires working power seats for a safety inspection? Let me > guess... CA? It wouldn't be CA as we don't have safety inspections, only emissions. Probably some state in the East Coast.  SignatureIgnasi. '90 325is (using SPAM trap e-mail address) > > What I find is that the "toys" break down and are expensive to > > replace. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > What state requires working power seats for a safety inspection? Let me > guess... CA? The Peoples' Socialist Republic of Maryland, that's who. David H. > > What state requires working power seats for a safety inspection? Let > > me guess... CA? > The Peoples' Socialist Republic of Maryland, that's who. I'd say having a seat where the adjustment works is quite a sensible arrangement, given that those who specify electric adjustment - if it's an option - might well have more than one driver per car. Signature*A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking * Dave Plowman dave.sound@argonet.co.uk London SW 12 RIP Acorn >> > What state requires working power seats for a safety inspection? Let >> > me guess... CA? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > arrangement, given that those who specify electric adjustment - if it's an > option - might well have more than one driver per car. Obviously one would prefer working adjustment to *no* adjustment... however if a single-driver car just happens to have its seat "die" while properly set, that does not seem like valid grounds for failing an inspection. Next thing you know, the socialists will be requiring that the A/C pass a minimum "cool-down" test in the event a cooling- disadvantaged individual happens to carjack it. > Obviously one would prefer working adjustment to *no* adjustment... > however if a single-driver car just happens to have its seat "die" > while properly set, that does not seem like valid grounds for failing > an inspection. Next thing you know, the socialists will be requiring > that the A/C pass a minimum "cool-down" test in the event a cooling- > disadvantaged individual happens to carjack it. If a short person gets in the car, it becomes a safety issue because they can't properly reach the controls. If a tall person gets in the car it becomes a safety issue because they may not be able to operate the controls. You know, luxury controls like the brake. This includes mechanics, valets, children, significant others, friends. I think working seat adjustments are not too much to ask for a safetied car. You can buy a car without A/C, you can't buy one that doesn't have seat adjustments. That would be about like bolting your seatbelt to the frame after cutting it to the right length. I mean who needs that pesky retractor anyway, it's a single driver car right? But I guess if you can prove that you have no friends, children, dates or a spouse, that you never use valets, you do all your own servicing, and you will never sell the car, it should be ok. -Russ. > > > What I find is that the "toys" break down and are expensive to > > > replace. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > The Peoples' Socialist Republic of Maryland, that's who. The same guys who won't let you have a piddly little rust hole in your fender any larger than a quarter? Of course, I guess that would drive a lot of domestic pickups out of state into PA, wouldn't it? ;^) -- C.R. Krieger (More rust than that) > cooling system in whole, power steering hoses.. The rad itself tends to be more of a problem on the 8 cylinder cars. The thermostat housing is plastic and may give trouble - especially if not torqued correctly, or replacement hoses over tightened. The waterpump seems to be ok - or at least average. Power steering hoses in and out of the reservoir sometimes leak at the crimped connections, and these crimps can be carefully removed and replaced with worm drive clips. Signature*For every action, there is an equal and opposite criticism * Dave Plowman dave.sound@argonet.co.uk London SW 12 RIP Acorn i have a 98 528i its a beaut! blast to drive! But the cooling situation is driving me nuts had no problems until 100k miles now every other week it overheats ... i have had the radiator, hoses, clamps, water pump replaced and now a cylinder head replaced i cant get it working long enough to sell > i have a 98 528i its a beaut! > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > i cant get it working long enough to sell Sounds unpleasant. Been there, done that (although with something cheaper to work on than a BM). Be sure to post when you finally find the solution. > > i have a 98 528i its a beaut! > > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Be sure to post when you finally find the solution. WHy isn't there a recall if this is such a widespread problem? For as many 528's on the road, you'd think the solution to the problem would be common knowledge. David H. > > > i have a 98 528i its a beaut! > > > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > WHy isn't there a recall if this is such a widespread problem? Because it's not that widespread. Yes, the plastic stuff fails after many thousands of miles. So what? Replace it and move on. Plus, Bill Williams didn't mention that he had changed the thermostat. I assume that was the first item replaced? Cooling systems aren't rocket science. A decent mechanic would have it sorted out in no time. -Fred W >> stewartmclean@supanet.com (stew_mclean) wrote in message >news:<2c5510e9.0404062356.72ba8756@posting.google.com>... [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > >-Fred W yes i replaced the thermostat (twice) i have been to a dealer and my local german mechanic w/o success. i have used my local guy for years 535 and 500sl. he says he has given up and the dealer (vista) says he has "never" seen this. Yet a fellow 528i owner waiting at the service area told me this is his third time here with the same problem. > yes i replaced the thermostat (twice) i have been to a dealer and my > local german mechanic w/o success. i have used my local guy for years > 535 and 500sl. he says he has given up and the dealer (vista) says he > has "never" seen this. Yet a fellow 528i owner waiting at the service > area told me this is his third time here with the same problem. What are the circumstances when the car overheats? Standing in traffic or moving along down the road? Does the car "boil over" before the temp gauge reaches red? How quickly does it go from OK to Too Hot? Does it ever seem to "regulate" the temperature properly? There has to be a reason for every problem. It's just a matter of finding yours... -Fred W >> yes i replaced the thermostat (twice) i have been to a dealer and my >> local german mechanic w/o success. i have used my local guy for years [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >-Fred W here's the scenario first 4 days after leaving shop - no problem second 4 days - temp gauge rises near red at stop lights after highway third 4 days - temp gauge get to red earlier and earlier (1 mile) then - overheats almost immediately if i add coolant sometimes the time can be extended but the same situation occurs. if you can help great. the car has been in the shop all week, and my mechanic wants to drive it for three days before his returns the car. (the cylinder is not covered under warranty if over heats) > here's the scenario first 4 days after leaving shop - no problem second > 4 days - temp gauge rises near red at stop lights after highway third 4 > days - temp gauge get to red earlier and earlier (1 mile) then - > overheats almost immediately > if i add coolant sometimes the time can be extended but the same > situation occurs. If adding coolant helps, then it's losing it somewhere. Either by boiling - unlikely, you'd see the steam - leaking from a hose etc, or via a failed cylinder head gasket or cracked head. > if you can help great. the car has been in the shop all week, and my > mechanic wants to drive it for three days before his returns the car. > (the cylinder is not covered under warranty if over heats) Most will survive a loss of coolant and subsequent overheating provided you stop immediately the warning light comes on and let it cool down before adding coolant. Driving it for any distance with the red light on can cause expensive damage. Signature*Why are a wise man and a wise guy opposites? Dave Plowman dave.sound@argonet.co.uk London SW 12 RIP Acorn >> here's the scenario first 4 days after leaving shop - no problem second >> 4 days - temp gauge rises near red at stop lights after highway third 4 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >- unlikely, you'd see the steam - leaking from a hose etc, or via a failed >cylinder head gasket or cracked head. agreed.... but we cant find the source and everything has been replaced, the water pump went bad twice,,, most of the leakage comes when the car overheats (around the radiator cap) it really doesn't leak until it overheats. >> if you can help great. the car has been in the shop all week, and my >> mechanic wants to drive it for three days before his returns the car. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >before adding coolant. Driving it for any distance with the red light on >can cause expensive damage. > agreed.... but we cant find the source and everything has been > replaced, the water pump went bad twice,,, most of the leakage comes > when the car overheats (around the radiator cap) it really doesn't > leak until it overheats. The fact that the symptom begins with overheating only at stoplights, but not when motoring along indicates the problem is likely to be a problem with the fan moving sufficient air thru the radiator. When moving along the air will be forced thru the radiator, fan or not. Once you overheat it you probably have air trapped in the system which is exacerbating the problem. The fan has a viscous clutch that is supposed to "lock-up" at high engine temperatures, it may be shot. -Fred W >> agreed.... but we cant find the source and everything has been >> replaced, the water pump went bad twice,,, most of the leakage comes [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >-Fred W thanks Fred I will have my guy look at it.. >>> agreed.... but we cant find the source and everything has been >>> replaced, the water pump went bad twice,,, most of the leakage comes [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> >thanks Fred I will have my guy look at it.. I spoke to my mechanic, that was replaced two months earlier the car is supposed to be ready today... the told me find a hairline crack that has been wielded... > the car is supposed to be ready today... the told me find a hairline > crack that has been wielded... Good luck with the weld. IMHO, it's not worth doing (properly) on a mass produced item that can easily be replaced. Signature*When the going gets tough, the tough take a coffee break * Dave Plowman dave.sound@argonet.co.uk London SW 12 RIP Acorn >> the car is supposed to be ready today... the told me find a hairline >> crack that has been wielded... > >Good luck with the weld. IMHO, it's not worth doing (properly) on a mass >produced item that can easily be replaced. just got it back spent 2100.00.... still doesn't sound right... i might never be able to sell this car...... sigh. > >> the car is supposed to be ready today... the told me find a hairline > >> crack that has been wielded... [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > just got it back spent 2100.00.... still doesn't sound right... i > might never be able to sell this car...... sigh. You can hear the crack? -Fred W > if i add coolant sometimes the time can be extended but the same > situation occurs. Sounds like my old SAAB Turbo. A hairline crack in the head would consume coolant and form an airpocket up in the head. It would then overheat and the temp gauge would skyrocket. Cooling down and bleeding the system "fixed" it for awhile. The crack was small and the car needed to heat up awhile before it would act up. And driving with a light foot would produce more manifold vacuum and make matters worse. The only recourse was to drive like hell when the temp gauge started to rise. Matthew 2000 528i >i have a 98 528i its a beaut! > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >now every other week it overheats ... i have had the radiator, hoses, >clamps, water pump replaced and now a cylinder head replaced Unless you forgot to mention, you forgot to replace the thermostat. -- marcio at compudimensions.com > now every other week it overheats ... i have had the radiator, hoses, > clamps, water pump replaced and now a cylinder head replaced Sounds like you need to replace your mechanic who is playing guessing games with your money... Signature*Virtual reality is its own reward* Dave Plowman dave.sound@argonet.co.uk London SW 12 RIP Acorn >> now every other week it overheats ... i have had the radiator, hoses, >> clamps, water pump replaced and now a cylinder head replaced > >Sounds like you need to replace your mechanic who is playing guessing >games with your money... my local mechanic says he wont charge me until its fixed. the dealer charged me an arm and a leg (of course) |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.