I have a '92 E36 320i in which the heater is fine. My brother has a '95 318i
in which it isn't! His ventilator fan is fine, the distribution control
(screen/face/feet) is working ok and the air conditioning is fine, but with
all temperature controls set to maximum, there's no heat, and despite high
summer temperatures,Cape Town winter nights can be pretty chilly. I have a
Haynes manual but there is no info on exactly how the heater controls
function. There are no blown fuses associated with the heater control. Can
anyone throw any light on this problem?
Thanks.
George Troupe
Cape Town.
psycho@here.there - 06 Jul 2004 02:08 GMT
Either plugged heater core or bad heater valve is likely the
culprit. Just resolved this issue on my e30 and can't advise locations
for the e36.
>I have a '92 E36 320i in which the heater is fine. My brother has a '95 318i
>in which it isn't! His ventilator fan is fine, the distribution control
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>George Troupe
>Cape Town.
Jim Levie - 06 Jul 2004 04:57 GMT
> I have a '92 E36 320i in which the heater is fine. My brother has a '95 318i
> in which it isn't! His ventilator fan is fine, the distribution control
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> function. There are no blown fuses associated with the heater control. Can
> anyone throw any light on this problem?
I don't know if the heater valve on this car operates the same as my E32
or not. On the E32 the valve is closed by application of power from the
ECU. So the first step in diagnosing a heater problem is to pull the
connector and check for voltage on the connector pins. That'll tell you if
it's the ECU or the valve/hoses/heater core.

Signature
The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.
George Troupe - 06 Jul 2004 23:40 GMT
> I don't know if the heater valve on this car operates the same as my E32
> or not. On the E32 the valve is closed by application of power from the
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> --
> The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.
Thanks Jim. There may be a coincidence or some relationship here in that he
has also lost the display on the temperature readout! I must ask him if it
happened at the same time as the loss of heating.
Regards,
George Troupe
Cape Town.
Randolph - 07 Jul 2004 07:43 GMT
> Thanks Jim. There may be a coincidence or some relationship here in that he
> has also lost the display on the temperature readout! I must ask him if it
> happened at the same time as the loss of heating.
If the display has gone blank and you have problems getting the correct
temperature, it may well be the dreaded E36 electronic climate control
problem. See http://www.macadamizer.com/bmwfix.html. There was a thread
on this here about a month ago. Check http://tinyurl.com/2xcc5
The author of http://www.macadamizer.com/bmwfix.html writes about 0.47uF
and 47uF capacitors, and gives no definitive answer on which it should
be. I did this repair on a friend's '96 318. The value of the cap that
was in the unit was 0.47uF and the replacement I put in was also 0.47uF.
This solved the problem. Furthermore, the author mentions the use of
tantalum caps. These are polarized and must be installed the correct
way. The best is to get a non-polarized cap, like a ceramic/monolithic
(use only X7R types, Z5U and Y5V have horrible temperature
characteristics).
himes - 07 Jul 2004 13:21 GMT
My Auto Climate Control went blank a few weeks ago. I followed the
instructions at the Macadamizer web page, replacing the 0.47 ufd cap
and the problem went away immediately. Though I don't know whether
the cap fixed the problem or merely the act of the resoldering those
solder joints. I had also read that re-flowing the solder joints on
the main connector fixes it too. I did both and am skilled at such
tasks. If you haven't soldered before, practice on something else
first or get someone who knows how to solder.
1998 323is, 74k miles, auto, stock, mint.
George Troupe - 07 Jul 2004 22:20 GMT
> My Auto Climate Control went blank a few weeks ago. I followed the
> instructions at the Macadamizer web page, replacing the 0.47 ufd cap
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> 1998 323is, 74k miles, auto, stock, mint.
Thanks again guys. I'm an electronics engineer by trade so soldering is no
problem. I'll also follow up the links given by Randolph.
Much appreciated.
George Troupe
Cape Town.
Jeff Strickland - 06 Jul 2004 20:45 GMT
The heater works by routing hot coolant from the engine through an exchanger
(heater core) in the passenger compartment. The heater core warms the air
that passes through it, where that warmed air is delivered to the
passengers.
If there is no heat, then the places to begin looking are with the hoses and
the heater core. Sometimes you can disconnect the heater hoses from the
connection points on the engine and blow water through them to clear the
gunk and crud out of the heater core, other times this is a complete waste
of time. If you can not clear the gunk and crud out to the point that the
heater begins to work, then you need to replace the heater core.
The water pump also plays a role in efficient heater operatioin. But, if the
water pump was part of this problem, there would be heating problems with
the engine as well as the poor heater performance that you describe.
> I have a '92 E36 320i in which the heater is fine. My brother has a '95 318i
> in which it isn't! His ventilator fan is fine, the distribution control
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> George Troupe
> Cape Town.
George Troupe - 06 Jul 2004 23:35 GMT
>> If there is no heat, then the places to begin looking are with the hoses
and
> the heater core. Sometimes you can disconnect the heater hoses from the
> connection points on the engine and blow water through them to clear the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> water pump was part of this problem, there would be heating problems with
> the engine as well as the poor heater performance that you describe.
Thanks guys. Actually Jeff I had thought of the above as I do it annually
with my Ford and its amazing what flushes out. Makes a huge difference to
the efficiency of the heater!
Much appreciated once again.
George Troupe
Cape Town.
John L Rice - 24 Jul 2004 04:08 GMT
Hi George,
A couple years ago this happened to my '97 318Ti. I searched the web and
found the following and it may apply to your car too :
*********************************
. . . . the 318ti has a
manufacturing defect that causes the cable that chooses between hot and cold
to come loose.
There is a service bulletin on the fix, check with your local dealer. Or,
remove your glove box and the air duct behind it. On the right side of the
heater box (LHD car) you can see a black cable with a yellow end. The
yellow end of the cable housing comes loose from it's mounting point on the
side of the heater box. A short self drilling screw usually fixes it fine.
Basically, even though you have the dial turned to full heat, the mechanism
behind the dash is only selecting half heat.
*********************************
Indeed, this was exactly what my problem was and drilling a tinny hole and
putting a screw just above the yellow piece so it wouldn't slip out worked
fine and it's worked well since. The only down side is that I had to remove
an air duct ( besides the glove box assembly ) to get in there and work on
it and getting it all back together required much more swearing and cursing
than normal! ;-)
Best of luck!
John L Rice
Drummer@ImJohn.com
> I have a '92 E36 320i in which the heater is fine. My brother has a '95 318i
> in which it isn't! His ventilator fan is fine, the distribution control
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> George Troupe
> Cape Town.