i'll just put the conclusion first for those who don't want to read
about a bunch of fixes that didn't fix anything.
for the sake of completing my tale, i just checked all the other
injectors. resistance across each injector is fine (2.6 - 2.8 ohms).
i have continuity from main relay 87 to each injector (on both
terminals?). continuity from motronic 14 to injector group 1 is fine
(on both terminals?). continuity from motronic 15 to injector group 2
is fine (on both terminals?). for that matter, motronic 14 and 15
have continuity to both terminals on every injector, whether the
injector is part of that pin's group or not. they also have
continuity to main relay 87 and the chassis. they even have
continuity to each other. that's just wrong, isn't it? i've said the
problem is definitely so-and-so enough times in the last month that i
should know better by now, but the harness is definitely screwed up
somewhere, right?
and now, the long version:
while driving to petco one evening, the car died w/ no warning,
whatsoever. it had been running perfectly for over a month, no loss
of power, nothing to indicate something was clogged / dirty /
whathaveyou. the engine will turn over all day long (or until the
battery runs down), but will not ignite. here's what i've done...
the original ignition coil tested outside of specs (according to
haynes - bentley supports this) and as it was too small for the frame,
i suspect it wasn't even the right part (thanks previous owner, who
also installs fuel filters backwards). i ordered a new one, plopped
it down in there, and nothing ($60 - flush). at this point, i found
that (w/ the ignition on) between coil 15 and chassis, i have +12V,
but between coil 15 and coil 1, i'm only getting +1.2mV. coil 1 has
continuity through to motronic 1, so at least the wire's not broken.
i don't know what this means.
moving on, next stop, distributor cap and rotor. my original rotor
was melted, and the original cap had enough carbon goo built up inside
that it wouldn't hurt to replace both. as before, this fixed nothing
($85 - flush).
at this point, i figured the DME (027) was bad (mainly because of the
voltage to coil issue, but there was a previous episode w/ an ebay DME
upgrade - replacing it w/ the original chip fixed that), found one on
ebay, and ordered it. while i waited for it to arrive, i also ordered
the bentley book. book arrived, i ran through all the DME checks, and
except for the fuel injectors (i was more concerned w/ the electricity
arcing around my delicate fingerbones), air flow sensor, and oxygen
sensors (it started raining), everything passed.
a few days later, the new DME arrived. i plugged it in, turned the
key, and same old crap ($50 - flush). later that evening, i figured i
should redo the motronic checks, including the ones i skipped, and i
even found a way to check the fuel injectors that didn't involve
burning off my fingers. the fuel injectors are NOT firing.
everything else passed, so now i'm on to the main relay.
i couldn't find the exact bosch part locally, so i picked up a generic
5-prong relay (same diagram, same voltage, same amperage). i took it
home, stuck it in there, and (wait for it...) nothing! thank god it
was only 4 bucks (flush). voltage to the relay panel is fine. i
replaced the original part, disconnected the lead to one of the
injectors, and w/ the ignition on, i'm getting +12V on both terminals
(i don't know if this is right or not - one leads to main relay 87,
the other leads to motronic 14 or 15).
so now what? this is just the latest episode. all told, i've
probably spent about four times what this car is worth (fair
condition) on acquisition and fixing it up (about half mechanical /
electrical, half aesthetic). according to random posts spotted on the
interweb, a new wiring harness will cost $300 or $500, plus three
hours of labor (i'm not doing that myself). should i continue
delaying the inevitable or just go buy a kia (up to $4000 minimum
trade-in, plus $1000 to $2500 cash back on the models i like)? i
prefer not having a car payment, but this has been going on for over 4
weeks now, and the owner of my borrowmobile (a '97 lumina - bleh) is
starting to get antsy.
thank you very much for your time and assistance.
Ben Moss - 05 Jul 2004 21:17 GMT
Do you have spark? (From your message, it is unclear whether or not
you tested for it). Unplug one of the spark plug wires and plug it
into a spare spark plug. Ground the case of the spark plug against
the block. Do you see spark? You probably won't.
It sounds like you have narrowed down most of the possibilities. I
have an '89 325is, which is a slightly different beast, but for it to
run it needs the idle control valve and the engine reference sensors.
On the 'i' engines, the reference sensor is at the front of the engine
on the harmonic balancer, but unfortunately on the 'e' engines it is
inside the transmission bellhousing. From what I understand there is
a needle or something on the flywheel that tells the sensor where the
engine's position is. You might try to test this sensor somehow; I
have heard of the needle breaking off. There is another reference
sensor on one of the spark plug wires (on the 'i' engines at least)
but I don't think it is as critical.
Does the idle control valve make a buzzing sound? On my car it does
when it is operating normally. The ECU also makes a buzzing sound
when it is on, so that might be another thing to test (without
spending more money).
I would put money down ($.25) that it is a broken reference sensor.
-Ben
david townsend - 06 Jul 2004 04:14 GMT
i have no spark. i ran out to recheck the sensor so i could reply w/
an exact result, and neither (engine speed nor reference) passed.
apparently, me no do simple math good in my head. they aren't too far
outside of tolerance (reference is 1069 ohms, engine speed is 1058
ohms; both should be 960 ± 96), but they are outside. so yes, you're
probably right.
i can't get the parts locally, and i can't muster the strength needed
to get the old ones off of the car, so i give up. i just don't really
have the patience for a fixer-upper any more. thanks for your help.
Ben Moss - 06 Jul 2004 16:07 GMT
> they aren't too far
> outside of tolerance (reference is 1069 ohms, engine speed is 1058
> ohms; both should be 960 ± 96), but they are outside. so yes, you're
> probably right.
That doesn't sound too bad... it's just barely outside of tolerance.
I would expect it to work; it's a Hall effect sensor, so if the sensor
is bad, it would show as an open circuit or a short. Of course, the
needle could still have fallen off; I don't know a way to test for
that (aside from taking the transmission off, or connecting an
oscilloscope to the sensor's wires).
Isn't there some way to get error codes from the DME? Something about
pressing the gas pedal five times or something like that. I can't
seem to find it now, but it might be useful searching for.
Good luck,
-Ben
david townsend - 11 Jul 2004 20:08 GMT
> Isn't there some way to get error codes from the DME? Something about
> pressing the gas pedal five times or something like that. I can't
> seem to find it now, but it might be useful searching for.
my understanding is that feature was introduced w/ motronic 1.1
(around '88?). despite that, it was one of the first things i tried,
and i definitely don't have that feature.