> I'm sure the dealer would first try to polish out the scratch by
> 'sanding' down the paint, which I'd rather NOT do unless absolutely
> necessary.
Some folks recommend the fingernail test. If the scratch is deep enough to
catch a fingernail lightly dragged across at right angles, it's too deep to
polish out. If the damage doesn't extend into the color coat, you may get
"like new" results with light sanding and a couple coats of clear.
> I could use some advice on what to do about this: this morning, a large
> piece of what I think was rubber was kicked up by the car in front and
> bounced off the hood of my E46 (colour titan silver).
> I haven't had a chance to examine it in detail, but it looks like this
> left two 20 mm-long (1/2 inch) and 1 mm-wide gashes in the clear coat.
> (AT least I hope that's ALL there is.)
> Being on the driver's side the marks are going to be quite visible
> while driving in direct sunlight as two white gouges.
> I could use some advice on how to proceed with this, as I don't know if
> there are any easy fixes for this. Being two fairly wide shallow
> scratches is it necessary to have the area professionally repaired by
> the dealer?
You can first try polishing it out, using a cutting compound Like Farecla.
Provided the clear coat hasn't been penetrated this will work well. Do a
bit at a time and then polish with a clean cloth. It should be obvious if
it's going to work.
> I'm sure the dealer would first try to polish out the scratch by
> 'sanding' down the paint, which I'd rather NOT do unless absolutely
> necessary.
> OR is it possible to use some other clear-coat-polish-type substance
> (one that'll actually last)?
Not without removing the scratch first, IMHO.

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Class 1 - 25 Apr 2005 08:29 GMT
Thanks for the replies. I've now had a better chance to examine the
damage.
There are three scratches - they are very shallow (~1/2mm) but quite
wide (~1mm). The clear coat is roughed by by the scraping action, so
they shine a bright white. I don't think just polishing will hide them
completely.
Sad, as the paint is in otherwise immaculate condition. = (
To completely & permanently fix this, I expect they would need to be
're-filled' with clear-coat. I really do not know what this would
involve...?
At a minimum, I suppose this would involve completely sanding down the
area + re-applying the clear coat (i.e. a bigger and expensive job).
I'm still not sure what to do about this. One of you must surely have
had similar damage repaired at one time or another - what would you
recommend?
Richard Sperry - 25 Apr 2005 14:40 GMT
You would be amazed at what a good detailer can do with a buffer. Clear coat
is generally 3 to 6 mil's (thousandths of an inch) thick. If the scratch
isn't into the color, a good detailer can remove it. The operative word is
"good" There is a fine line between using a buffer to heat up and move the
clear and burning it.
Where are you located?
> Thanks for the replies. I've now had a better chance to examine the
> damage.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> had similar damage repaired at one time or another - what would you
> recommend?
Class 1 - 25 Apr 2005 15:31 GMT
I'm currently located in Europe.
I have an excellent dealership here, so I'd probably let them handle it
(perhaps they use an external body shop). I don't think I'd entrust it
to just any old body shop over here.
Having said that, the scratches are about 1/2 to 1mm deep (0.5
millimeter = 0.0196850394 inches according to Google). Hard to tell
exactly - like I said, they're shallow but quite broad. For that reason
I'd be worried about them having to take some pretty extreme (and
expensive) measures, potentially making the situation worse (read: even
more noticeable).
Dave Plowman (News) - 25 Apr 2005 19:59 GMT
> You would be amazed at what a good detailer can do with a buffer. Clear
> coat is generally 3 to 6 mil's (thousandths of an inch) thick. If the
> scratch isn't into the color, a good detailer can remove it. The
> operative word is "good" There is a fine line between using a buffer to
> heat up and move the clear and burning it.
There's no need to use a buffer - in any case a decent one is extremely
expensive. Elbow grease and a decent cutting compound will do *exactly*
the same thing. Without the risk of heat damage.
Get some Farecla G3 and a roll of stockingett - cotton polishing cloth.
Make sure the area is perfectly clean.
Damp the cloth and polish with a circular motion. Use a clean cloth to
buff up often to check progress. If you actually go through the topcoat
before removing the scratch - seen by the colour appearing on the cloth -
nothing is lost as the repair shop would have to do exactly the same. All
you'd have lost is the small cost of the materials and your labour.

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Class 1 - 26 Apr 2005 07:46 GMT
Again, thanks for the advice, I've taken it all on board.
I can see your point about trying to polish it out using a cutting
compound - that should give good results. Though, not having worked on
such things before, I'd be worried about actually doing more damage
than good.
Using something that actually sands down the paint is probably best
left to someone with experience (i.e. not me). (Though if the car were
older, I'd likely give it a shot.)
The next time I'm at the dealership, I'll ask them what/who they'd
recommend. Until then, I'll just have to live with it.
Bound to happen again - what with the amount of debris flying around
the roads. =(
Dave Plowman (News) - 26 Apr 2005 19:00 GMT
> I can see your point about trying to polish it out using a cutting
> compound - that should give good results. Though, not having worked on
> such things before, I'd be worried about actually doing more damage
> than good.
You can't by hand. Provided you clean the surface first and only use clean
cloth. It's a pretty slow process.
> Using something that actually sands down the paint is probably best
> left to someone with experience (i.e. not me). (Though if the car were
> older, I'd likely give it a shot.)
Sanding down is simply a faster way of removing the paint. To remove a
scratch you have to level *down* the surrounding paint. And only obviously
works if it's thick enough.
I'd personally use 1200 grit wet or dry used wet to sand the area smooth
then cutting compound to restore the shine, but for a novice it's safer
just to use the cutting compound. It will take longer and is more work,
but the chances of doing more damage than already exists small.

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Malt_Hound - 25 Apr 2005 15:43 GMT
> Thanks for the replies. I've now had a better chance to examine the
> damage.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> had similar damage repaired at one time or another - what would you
> recommend?
I have an idea... bring it to a few body shops and ask for an estimate
of repair. They are generally free and you are under no obligation.
Asking for their expert advice would seem the best course of action.
-Fred W
CFL - 25 Apr 2005 15:56 GMT
>> Thanks for the replies. I've now had a better chance to examine the
>> damage.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> -Fred W
Check this site for ideas:
http://www.homeofsbc.com/Scratches/scratches.html
tech27 - 25 Apr 2005 21:26 GMT
Ask a local BMW dealer who they use for minor body repair. The pre-owned
guys will know. I've seen them working at my dealer (it's a mobile thing),
and I was VERY impressed with the quality of the work. They are specialists
in exactly what you need - professionally fixing a little blemish on an
otherwise perfect finish.
> Thanks for the replies. I've now had a better chance to examine the
> damage.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> had similar damage repaired at one time or another - what would you
> recommend?
clifffreeling@yahoo.com - 26 Apr 2005 14:30 GMT
> Thanks for the replies. I've now had a better chance to examine the
> damage.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> had similar damage repaired at one time or another - what would you
> recommend?
Don't ya hate it when this happens? I was driving down the freeway
about 18 months ago when a car threw up some debris off the road and
it smashed and skipped across my hood. Some of it also bounced off
my windshield, and how it didn't break or crack, I'll never know,
considering how fragile my windshield apparently is. In my case,
the crap off the road actually did some real damage (but small area)
to the front right side of my hood, then left small, short, but deep
gouges farther back, just in front of where my wife was sitting.
I'm just thankful it didn't come in the car and whack her in the face.
Anyway, I had to have my entire hood refinished professionally.
This cost me I think about $750, I don't remember exactly.
But if *I* were you, I'd go to a good, professional shop for this.
It couldn't be *that* expensive to fix.
--
Cliff