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Car Forum / BMW Cars / October 2005caliper bolts
Hi All, I have a '96 328i. Can anyone tell me what size hex wrench is needed to remove the front brake caliper guide bolts? Also, is it the same size wrench for the rear caliper? TIA to all! J > I have a '96 328i. Can anyone tell me what size hex wrench is needed to > remove the front brake caliper guide bolts? Also, is it the same size > wrench for the rear caliper? They're all the same. IIRC, it's 17mm (although I could be wrong and it's 14mm or so...) Floyd > They're all the same. IIRC, it's 17mm (although I could be wrong and > it's 14mm or so...) Someone not used to the metric system. ;-) 17mm is *almost* 3/4" (0.67") That would be a *vast* allen head bolt.  Signature*No radio - Already stolen. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >> They're all the same. IIRC, it's 17mm (although I could be wrong and >> it's 14mm or so...) > >Someone not used to the metric system. ;-) > >17mm is *almost* 3/4" (0.67") That would be a *vast* allen head bolt. I've got a 46mm 3/4" drive socket somewhere... Maybe he'd like that. Can't remember what I bought it for, must have been a crank pulley or drive shaft nut on something. Dodgy. SignatureMUSHROOMS ARE THE OPIATE OF THE MOOSES If you don't have a 17mm Allen key, use a normal bolt with a 17mm head and lock two 17mm nuts on the other end. I used this to open the oil filler plug on our beetle's gearbox once. MW >> They're all the same. IIRC, it's 17mm (although I could be wrong and >> it's 14mm or so...) > > Someone not used to the metric system. ;-) > > 17mm is *almost* 3/4" (0.67") That would be a *vast* allen head bolt. > Floyd Rogers <fbloogyuds@hotmail.com> wrote: >> They're all the same. IIRC, it's 17mm (although I could be wrong and [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > 17mm is *almost* 3/4" (0.67") That would be a *vast* allen head bolt. Thought he was asking about the bolt holding the calipers onto the wheel assembly... Biggest socket I have is 36mm for the oil filter cap... Floyd > >> They're all the same. IIRC, it's 17mm (although I could be wrong and > >> it's 14mm or so...) > > > > Someone not used to the metric system. ;-) > > > > 17mm is *almost* 3/4" (0.67") That would be a *vast* allen head bolt. > Thought he was asking about the bolt holding the calipers onto > the wheel assembly... Ah - I assumed by the 'hex wrench' he meant an allen key - not a spanner. And you need an allen key for the slides on BMW brakes. > Biggest socket I have is 36mm for the oil filter cap... I've got larger than that. ;-) Signature*Wrinkled was not one of the things I wanted to be when I grew up Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > I have a '96 328i. Can anyone tell me what size hex wrench is needed to > remove the front brake caliper guide bolts? 7mm. Best to get one to fit a 3/8" socket set. But when the discs need replacing you'll need an 8mm (IIRC) for that so get a set. > Also, is it the same size wrench for the rear caliper? Yup. Don't forget to buy a pad wear sensor at the same time as the pads. Signature*I pretend to work. - they pretend to pay me. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > Hi All, > I have a '96 328i. Can anyone tell me what size hex wrench is needed to > remove the front brake caliper guide bolts? Also, is it the same size > wrench for the rear caliper? 7mm Mike. Thanks to all who posted. Just to clear up the bolt sizes for anyone new to the thread: road wheel= 17mm; rotor to hub=6mm hex; caliper guide bolts=7mm. I removed the caliper and the bolt holding the rotor to the hub but the rotor is stuck fast to the hub. The last brake job was done by the dealer and they have usually done good work for me, so I assume it was installed correctly. I tried to loosen it with a rubber mallet to no avail. I'm hoping to tap into the collective wisdom of the group, once again, for advice! Thanks again to all! > Hi All, > I have a '96 328i. Can anyone tell me what size hex wrench is needed to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > J > I removed the caliper and the bolt holding the rotor to the hub but the > rotor is stuck fast to the hub. That's most unusual on a BMW. > The last brake job was done by the dealer > and they have usually done good work for me, so I assume it was installed > correctly. > I tried to loosen it with a rubber mallet to no avail. Since the only reason to remove the disc is if it needs replacing, hit it with large hammer. ;-) Make sure the mating faces of hub and new disc are spotless, and use a little copper grease to stop it seizing again. > I'm hoping to tap > into the collective wisdom of the group, once again, for advice! Signature*Xerox and Wurlitzer will merge to market reproductive organs. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > Thanks to all who posted. Just to clear up the bolt sizes for anyone new to > the thread: road wheel= 17mm; rotor to hub=6mm hex; caliper guide bolts=7mm. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I tried to loosen it with a rubber mallet to no avail. I'm hoping to tap > into the collective wisdom of the group, once again, for advice! The disk is trapped on the hub by rust. Try to clean up as much rust along the center hub as you can with a wire brush. You can try using something like PB Blaster on the junction between the rotors and hubs and let that soak in a bit. Assuming that you are removing the rotors to replace them, hit them harder with a bigger hammer. Signature-Fred W Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> > > I tried to loosen it with a rubber mallet to no avail. I'm hoping to tap > > into the collective wisdom of the group, once again, for advice! > > The disk is trapped on the hub by rust. Try to clean up as much rust > along the center hub as you can with a wire brush. This part is almost pointless except in terms of clearing a path for the penetrant. > You can try using > something like PB Blaster on the junction between the rotors and hubs > and let that soak in a bit. > > Assuming that you are removing the rotors to replace them, hit them > harder with a bigger hammer. Fred is right. You're being much too gentle. You can shoot some penetrating oil of your choice (I tend to use WD-40 or Kroil.) into the bolt holes, too. That distributes it better in there. If you're in the mood and you have a propane torch handy, heat it up a little, but try to stay away from the hub. Heat only the disk hat. I find a sharp oblique blow from a hammer on the hat portion is often enough to break it loose. Remember: you're going to throw this part away, so any damage you do to it is OK. -- C.R. Krieger (BT, DT) Thanks guys. And I always thought "Use a bigger hammer" was just a joke! I'll try it tomorrow AM and report back. If it wasn't for frozen hubs this would be the easiest brake job I've ever seen. A well designed set-up I think. It's hard to understand why the dealers get $450+ for the job. Jim > Thanks to all who posted. Just to clear up the bolt sizes for anyone new to > the thread: road wheel= 17mm; rotor to hub=6mm hex; caliper guide bolts=7mm. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > > > J Best way to mark the ball bearings ! Not a cheap part and not easy to replace ;-(( I never ever use a hammer on mechanics except for body work and for very special cases. If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. > Thanks guys. And I always thought "Use a bigger hammer" was just a joke! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > I'll try it tomorrow AM and report back. If it wasn't for frozen hubs this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > Best way to mark the ball bearings ! Don't be silly. > Not a cheap part and not easy to replace ;-(( > I never ever use a hammer on mechanics except for body work and for very > special cases. Good for you. But how else are you going to remove a stuck disc? And it won't be stuck like some that may need an angle grinder to remove them. > If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. Which seals? Signature*Honk if you love peace and quiet. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > > Best way to mark the ball bearings ! > > Don't be silly. Not my problem if you ignore the basic rules ! However I wouldn't bring my car for a fix into your garage ! > > Not a cheap part and not easy to replace ;-(( > > > I never ever use a hammer on mechanics except for body work and for very > > special cases. > > Good for you. But how else are you going to remove a stuck disc? And it Have a look o this link http://www.sam-outillage.com/fichemere.asp?index=4&page=1&idf=16&recherche=m ulticriteres&sf147=on&sf146=on&sf150=on&sf149=on&sf148=on > > If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. > > Which seals? Callipers, and every seal around, depends on the model and front/rear. Could be between the universal joint to the arm. > > > Best way to mark the ball bearings ! > > > > Don't be silly. > Not my problem if you ignore the basic rules ! > However I wouldn't bring my car for a fix into your garage ! Since I don't fix cars for a living, you're not likely to. But then I'd guess you don't fix them yourself anyway. ;-) > > > Not a cheap part and not easy to replace ;-(( > > > > > I never ever use a hammer on mechanics except for body work and for > > > very special cases. > > > > Good for you. But how else are you going to remove a stuck disc? And it > Have a look o this link > http://www.sam-outillage.com/fichemere.asp?index=4&page=1&idf=16&recherche=m > ulticriteres&sf147=on&sf146=on&sf150=on&sf149=on&sf148=on Can't be bothered. > > > If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. > > > > Which seals? > Callipers, and every seal around, depends on the model and front/rear. > Could be between the universal joint to the arm. I don't use WD40 for anything. It's just a heavily marketed 'fix all' product which does nothing as well as the correct product for the job. Signature*That's it! I‘m calling grandma! Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >I don't use WD40 for anything. It's just a heavily marketed 'fix all' >product which does nothing as well as the correct product for the job. Oh, c'mon. Penetrating oil has its place in any toolkit. Just like an adjustable spanner does... SignatureDan. > >I don't use WD40 for anything. It's just a heavily marketed 'fix all' > >product which does nothing as well as the correct product for the job. > > Oh, c'mon. Penetrating oil has its place in any toolkit. Just like > an adjustable spanner does... The problem with any penetrating oils, WD40, PlusGas etc, is that they are innefective at freeing badly corroded fasteners. It just doesn't penetrate to where it's needed. The Consumer Association, 'Which' carried out some tests some years ago and came to the same conclusion. I've carried out some tests myself once. I found some heavily rusted bolts with nuts screwed on in a shed at work. I left them to soak overnight in PlusGas. Next day I tried to free the nuts. One or two I did manage to free, but noticed the threads in the nuts appeared to be dry, so I washed and dried another couple, and cut the nuts off. The threads were completely dry. Evidence that the PlusGas hadn't penetrated the rusted thread in the nut at all. It may be of some benefit if a fastener has some slight movement, as it's likely that it will then be able to get to where it can provide a little lubricant, but as far as doing what they claim it does, forget it. In a few cases it might help, so maybe because of that it's worth a try, but IMO you'd do just as well with parrafin, (kerosene) or an oil thinned out with petrol. Mike. >>I don't use WD40 for anything. It's just a heavily marketed 'fix all' >>product which does nothing as well as the correct product for the job. > > Oh, c'mon. Penetrating oil has its place in any toolkit. Just like > an adjustable spanner does... Yeahbut, WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil. Read the can, man... Signature-Fred W Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> > >>I don't use WD40 for anything. It's just a heavily marketed 'fix all' > >>product which does nothing as well as the correct product for the job. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Yeahbut, WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil. Read the can, man... From the WD40 website. CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, marks and grease making it easy to wipe away. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, and stickers PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits. Turn the power off before you spray Mike. > >I don't use WD40 for anything. It's just a heavily marketed 'fix all' > >product which does nothing as well as the correct product for the job. > Oh, c'mon. Penetrating oil has its place in any toolkit. Just like > an adjustable spanner does.. But I do keep penetrating oil in my 'toolbox' Signature*I'm already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. > >I don't use WD40 for anything. It's just a heavily marketed 'fix all' > >product which does nothing as well as the correct product for the job. > > Oh, c'mon. Penetrating oil has its place in any toolkit. Just like > an adjustable spanner does... and a hammer _big_ ??? ;-))) > -- > Dan. > Best way to mark the ball bearings ! > Not a cheap part and not easy to replace ;-(( > > I never ever use a hammer on mechanics except for body work and for very > special cases. > If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. I'd be surprised if they let you get near enough. Mike. >> Best way to mark the ball bearings ! >> Not a cheap part and not easy to replace ;-(( [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >I'd be surprised if they let you get near enough. They will, if they think you're going to blow them. SignatureDan. > Best way to mark the ball bearings ! > Not a cheap part and not easy to replace ;-(( You are right. Those ball bearings are very expensive because they are so rare. In fact, no (modern) BMW that I am aware of has ball bearings for the wheel hub. They all have tapered roller bearings as 99.9% of all cars do. > I never ever use a hammer on mechanics except for body work and for very > special cases. Good for you... So how do you suppose that the brake rotor is meant to be removed from the hub? Talk to it nicely? Promise it dinner and a movie? > If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. You are just full of all kinds of great wisdom and advice... WD40 will not damage seals or rubber. It is just a light oil for use in displacing water (actually not even a penetrating oil) and in preventing rust. Signature-Fred W Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> [...] > Good for you... So how do you suppose that the brake rotor is meant to > be removed from the hub? Talk to it nicely? Promise it dinner and a movie? Could be but an extractor is far more efficient ! http://www.sam-outillage.com/fichemere.asp?index=4&page=1&idf=16&recherche=m ulticriteres&sf147=on&sf146=on&sf150=on&sf149=on&sf148=on (join the lines) Wait a minute, I'm coming for dinner ! > > If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. > You are just full of all kinds of great wisdom and advice... WD40 will > not damage seals or rubber. I agree It is just a light oil for use in > displacing water (actually not even a penetrating oil) and in preventing > rust. Since its very thin it may penetrate under the seals and locally dissolve the grease. Even a visual inspection can't reveal it without dismounting. Seal lips may run dry. Wd40 prevents rust as long as there is a film of wd40 in contact with the metal (metal parts inside a bag for example). Spray it on a bare metal surface and let it evaporate. It will dissolve the residual greases and leave the cleaned metal exposed to the air. I made the experience. Pistons don't like it at all. A bimmer is far too delicate not to be pampered isn't it ? > -- > -Fred W > Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: > <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> > "Malt_Hound" <""Malt_Hound\"@*spam-me not*yahoo.com"> a écrit dans > > > If you use WD40 or similar, make sure you don't spray on the seals. > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > the grease. Even a visual inspection can't reveal it without dismounting. > Seal lips may run dry. Nonsense. If it got under the seals, the seals would be knackered anyway. In any case, the seals that matter are protected by boots. > Wd40 prevents rust as long as there is a film of wd40 in contact with the > metal (metal parts inside a bag for example). Spray it on a bare metal > surface and let it evaporate. It will dissolve the residual greases and > leave the cleaned metal exposed to the air. Rubbish. I agree that as a rust protective it's pretty poor if exposed to the weather, but it doesn't disappear that quickly. Try painting a surface after it 'evaporates' You'll soon find out it's still there. I made the experience. Pistons > don't like it at all. Eh.Now you're fishing for reasons. What pistons? Ally engine ones, or the chromed ones in calipers? > A bimmer is far too delicate not to be pampered isn't it ? It's not delicate in that sense at all. Suspension, and braking systems, inc calipers are designed to work in the harsh environment of being sprayed with water and road dirt etc. To suggest that a little WD-40 is going to cause problems is just not true, unless it's sprayed in quantity all over the pads and discs, and no one is suggesting that. Mike. To those of you who think it won't hurt rubber, try spraying it on a blown up balloon and see what happens................ >> "Malt_Hound" <""Malt_Hound\"@*spam-me not*yahoo.com"> a écrit dans > [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > and discs, and no one is suggesting that. > Mike. > To those of you who think it won't hurt rubber, try spraying it on a blown > up balloon and see what happens................ Is anyone saying that? I thaught we were talking about caliper seals, which are not made of rubber. Oil, including WD-40 will attack and soften rubber, but seals and boots on the calipers, and steering rack etc, and seals in the engine, are made of a neoprene which is impervious to oil. Mike. Many thanks to all who posted. I finally got everything installed this morning, pads, rotors, wear sensor, new rotor to hub bolts. The rotors came off much more easily after cooling completely overnight. A little penetrating oil and a few sharp raps with a rubber mallet did it. I guess I just didn't wait long enough after driving home from work for the rotors to be cool enough to release easily. Just one addendum to the bolt sizes: the pad carrier bolts are 16mm. I saved more than half the cost of what the dealer charged to do the same job last time. Regards, Jim > Thanks guys. And I always thought "Use a bigger hammer" was just a joke! > I'll try it tomorrow AM and report back. If it wasn't for frozen hubs this [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > > > > > J |
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