Car Forum / BMW Cars / February 2006
Coolant temp never gets above blue zone
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Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 19:00 GMT Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily 15 mile motorway run its barely above it - a mm or so at best and never anywhere near straight up vertical...
Is this normal or indicative of a problem?
Many thanks
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Shevek
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Josh Assing - 20 Feb 2006 19:12 GMT sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat.
>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >Many thanks --- AntiSpam/harvest --- Remove X's to send email to me.
Tom K. - 20 Feb 2006 19:25 GMT >>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> >>Many thanks
> sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat. FWIW, there was a recall back in 2001 for the thermostat on my '99 328i.
Tom K.
Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 19:27 GMT >>>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >>>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >FWIW, there was a recall back in 2001 for the thermostat on my '99 328i. hmm, it has a full BMW service history so am I correct in thinking that if there was a recall this would have been sorted?
sorry if I sound like a noob, its because I am! 5 months into my first!
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Tom K. - 20 Feb 2006 19:38 GMT >>>>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >>>>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > hmm, it has a full BMW service history so am I correct in thinking > that if there was a recall this would have been sorted? One would think so, but I would have it checked out as the needle should be straight up after 3-4 miles or so. Of course, its easily possible that the thermostat was replaced and the new one is now stuck open after 5 years.
> sorry if I sound like a noob, its because I am! 5 months into my > first! No problem. Hope you are enjoying your E39.
Tom K.
frischmoutt - 20 Feb 2006 20:07 GMT In the early nineties, on my E30, I got the thermostat stuck open causing rough revving on cold weather on the highway and bad ideling one or two minutes just after. When stopped for 5 minuyes or more, the temperature was almost correct. The dealer changed the four injectors and lotta more under warranty although I was claiming to look at the thermostat since, while driving fast, the needle was pointing towards 1/3 of the scale.
Exhausted of this waste of time and money, I decided to buy a thermostat and to change it. That ended all my problems until theu re-appeared last year after 180 000 km. I changed it again. BTW, if you replace it, make sure you mount it in the correct direction.
Teh dealer
> sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > --- AntiSpam/harvest --- > Remove X's to send email to me. Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 20:39 GMT >In the early nineties, on my E30, I got the thermostat stuck open causing >rough revving on cold weather on the highway and bad ideling one or two [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >km. I changed it again. >BTW, if you replace it, make sure you mount it in the correct direction. I've got a Haynes manual, I'll take a look and see if its something I can handle!
>Teh dealer >> sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> --- AntiSpam/harvest --- >> Remove X's to send email to me.  Signature
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Dave Plowman (News) - 20 Feb 2006 19:23 GMT > Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant > temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily > 15 mile motorway run its barely above it - a mm or so at best and > never anywhere near straight up vertical... Not normal. Mine gets up to temperature as fast as any car I've owned. Does the heater work well?
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Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 20:37 GMT >> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Not normal. Mine gets up to temperature as fast as any car I've owned. >Does the heater work well? yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?)
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Dave Plowman (News) - 20 Feb 2006 23:41 GMT > >> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant > >> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Not normal. Mine gets up to temperature as fast as any car I've owned. > >Does the heater work well?
> yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees > (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?) Dunno. 32°F? ;-)
If the heater works normally then the gauge must be reading incorrectly. So the engine temperature sensor would be my best bet.
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Jeff Strickland - 21 Feb 2006 00:05 GMT >>> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >>> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees > (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?) ALT+0176
( 32° )
Jeff Strickland - 21 Feb 2006 00:06 GMT >>> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >>> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees > (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?) That's ALT+0176 on the Numeric Keypad, NOT the number keys on the top row of your keyboard ...
E Brown - 21 Feb 2006 09:55 GMT >That's ALT+0176 on the Numeric Keypad, NOT the number keys on the top row of >your keyboard ... A-HA! I've always wondered why this never worked for me (though I'm usually attempting the symbol for the British pound). I've only got laptops, so no dedicated keypads on any of my computers. Thanks for solving that little mystery. epbrown -- 2003 BMW 325i Black/Black 2003 BMW Z4 Black/Black
Jeff Strickland - 22 Feb 2006 01:19 GMT >>That's ALT+0176 on the Numeric Keypad, NOT the number keys on the top row >>of [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > solving that little mystery. > epbrown I haven't got a laptop that I can test the theory on, but laptops have a function key that when held (or pushed, or whatever it takes) will give you a numeric key pad. I would assume you would press the function key, then press and hold the ALT key and then press the keys on the numeric key pad that you get by pressing the function key first.
There is a Character Map (Start>Programs>Accessories>System Tools>Character Map) that will give you thousands of key strokes using the ALT Key + the numeric keys. Of course, you can copy and paste characters from the Character Map ...
Dave Plowman (News) - 22 Feb 2006 09:43 GMT > Of course, you can copy and paste characters from the > Character Map ... That's what I do as I'd find it impossible to remember little used codes.
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Jeff Strickland - 26 Feb 2006 01:29 GMT >> Of course, you can copy and paste characters from the >> Character Map ... > > That's what I do as I'd find it impossible to remember little used codes. I like to use 241 ( ± ) (this is different than 0241, which gives ñ) and 0176, which gives the degree symbol. The rest I have to use the Character Map because I don't remember them either ...
Jeff Strickland - 20 Feb 2006 20:42 GMT This is what a stuck open thermostat might look like in cold weather.
> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant > temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Many thanks RT - 21 Feb 2006 02:22 GMT >Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant >temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >Many thanks like others said; thermostat stuck open OR the sending unit bad. since you said the heater works well it is likely the sending unit is bad indicating the wrong temperature while it is fine. however, if it is the thermostat you are getting more wear on your engine than you want. It stays cold way too long. Thermostats are cheap, replace it I say. then if it's still not working, replace the sending unit.
Shevek - 21 Feb 2006 19:15 GMT Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work:
To Work:
first ~8 miles town and country consistent 20-40mph top of blue area ~1/6 of dial
next ~10 miles motorway consistent 70mph middle of blue area ~1/12 of dial
next ~3 miles town stop/start traffic around first white line ~1/3 of dial
From Work:
first ~3 miles town consistent 20-30mph top of blue are ~1/6 of dial
next ~10 miles motorway consistent 70mph middle of blue area ~1/12 of dial
next ~3 miles town consistent 20-30mph top of blue are ~1/6 of dial
And the heater is NOT working, kept it on 32°C and fan on full blast on dash vents - at ~1/12 there was very little heat, at ~1/6 it was warmer and at ~1/3 it was warm but no where near as hot as I think it should be.
So I guess it must be a dodgy thermostat!
So next question is:
What do I need to buy? I've checked a few websites and phoned a few local parts places and there basically seem to be two options, some places only offer the first and other offer both:
1) Thermostat "Kit" consisting of thermostat, housing & gasket ~£40
2) Thermostat inner ~£15 Thermostat gasket ~£1.50 Thermostat housing ~£10
Now obviously buying separately is cheaper but do I actually need the housing? Most of places which drilled down to my specific model only feature the kit whereas some model specific sites list all 4.
My car is an E39 2000 V plate 528i - do I need the housing or just the thermostat & gasket?
Sorry for such a long post and thanks for all you help!
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Dave Plowman (News) - 21 Feb 2006 19:43 GMT > So I guess it must be a dodgy thermostat!
> So next question is:
> What do I need to buy? I've checked a few websites and phoned a few > local parts places and there basically seem to be two options, some > places only offer the first and other offer both:
> 1) Thermostat "Kit" consisting of thermostat, housing & gasket ~£40
> 2) Thermostat inner ~£15 > Thermostat gasket ~£1.50 > Thermostat housing ~£10 Generally just the thermostat and gasket. The housing (on mine) is plastic, but was ok when I changed my thermostat.
You'll also need the correct coolant to top up after changing it. A litre plus water should be fine. You'll also need to bleed the system properly - a google should easily find out details.
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frischmoutt - 21 Feb 2006 20:54 GMT If the housing is made of aluminium, normammy, you shouldn't need to replace it. I'd rather buy a separate thermostat and the gaskets. Second, you'll probably need to dismount the fan. Usually a 32 mm nut reverse screwed. Just put a spanner on the nut, protect around (obviously) with al old piece of carpet and hit the spanner with a maller, the inertia will help you and the nut would easily release . But, check accurately the spanner dimension on your 528. You will need also to replace a large amount of cooling fluid.
> Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work: > [quoted text clipped - 57 lines] > Get Firefox! > http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1 RT - 23 Feb 2006 06:01 GMT >Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work: > [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > >Sorry for such a long post and thanks for all you help! whatever you do, I would not drive it anymore until this is fixed. This is wearing on your engine. Also might want to consider changing the oil after it is fixed. (smell the dipstick, see if it smells like gas)
frischmoutt - 23 Feb 2006 21:08 GMT [...]
> whatever you do, I would not drive it anymore until this is fixed. > This is wearing on your engine. Also might want to consider changing > the oil after it is fixed. (smell the dipstick, see if it smells like > gas) RT,
What the hell is the reason you would replace the oil? Condensation?
Bye
RT - 24 Feb 2006 00:17 GMT >[...] >> whatever you do, I would not drive it anymore until this is fixed. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >What the hell is the reason you would replace the oil? >Condensation? that's one of them. the engine probably never reaches operating temps including the oil. And not to mention any fuel blowby that collects in the oil.
Flabay - 24 Feb 2006 13:29 GMT Had the same problem. Make sure you replace the Thermostat, Thermostat 0-ring, Thermostat housing gasket. Also since you opened your cooling system, make sure you work to get the air out. How do I know this..... Just went through it yesterday! I had to take it a step further, and replace my radiator since, I had a blow out.
Cheers, David 1995 525i
>> Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work: >> [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] >> >> Sorry for such a long post and thanks for all you help! Shevek - 22 Feb 2006 18:28 GMT Took it to my local garage today... The fixing inside the housing which holds the thermostat had broken.
I now have a toasty warm car with a vertical needle!
I didn't realise just how cold it had been in there....
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions...
Now, onto my next 2 projects - parking sensors and angel eye headlights!
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Dave Plowman (News) - 22 Feb 2006 18:53 GMT > Took it to my local garage today... The fixing inside the housing > which holds the thermostat had broken. The thermostat is clamped in place by the face of the housing.
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frischmoutt - 22 Feb 2006 20:40 GMT Agree but, a thermostat is made of five major parts: - a big washer, - a wax/copper cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end, - a bracket which maintain the cartridge centered onto the big washer - a second bracket on the opposite side maintaining : - a spring depressing the valve in closed position against the big washer. I assume that one of the bracket, where it's crimped inside the big washer was damaged or broken, letting either the valve opened or the cartridge askew and the valve partially opened.
He was lucky that no part went into the radiator !
> > Took it to my local garage today... The fixing inside the housing > > which holds the thermostat had broken. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW > To e-mail, change noise into sound. Dave Plowman (News) - 23 Feb 2006 01:16 GMT > a thermostat is made of five major parts: - a big washer, - a wax/copper > cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end, - a bracket which [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > letting either the valve opened or the cartridge askew and the valve > partially opened. In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a thermostat which was mechanically broken as you suggest.
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Shevek - 23 Feb 2006 19:50 GMT >> a thermostat is made of five major parts: - a big washer, - a wax/copper >> cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end, - a bracket which [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a thermostat >which was mechanically broken as you suggest. I'll post a link to a pic soon (once I've taken it!) so you can see exactly what was broken...
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frischmoutt - 23 Feb 2006 21:16 GMT > I'll post a link to a pic soon (once I've taken it!) so you can see > exactly what was broken... > -- > > Shevek That's called feedback! And still appreciated. Thanks
Dave Plowman (News) - 23 Feb 2006 22:28 GMT > >In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a > >thermostat which was mechanically broken as you suggest.
> I'll post a link to a pic soon (once I've taken it!) so you can see > exactly what was broken... Well yes. But 'damaging' a stuck thermostat on removal is common enough. Not quite the same thing, though.
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frischmoutt - 23 Feb 2006 21:15 GMT > > a thermostat is made of five major parts: - a big washer, - a wax/copper > > cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end, - a bracket which [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW > To e-mail, change noise into sound. Dave, I didn't see any as well. I had one a little bit twisted on my Spitfire (second hand) but possibly be due to a bad mounting. I just pointed out the areas of potential fragility and the possible ways it failed. Should the cartridge be leaky, it would have been closed forever. Of course I may be wrong. Bye
Dave Plowman (News) - 23 Feb 2006 22:35 GMT > > In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a > > thermostat which was mechanically broken as you suggest.
> I didn't see any as well. I had one a little bit twisted on my Spitfire > (second hand) but possibly be due to a bad mounting. I just pointed out > the areas of potential fragility and the possible ways it failed. Should > the cartridge be leaky, it would have been closed forever. Of course I > may be wrong. Most modern stats fail 'safe' ie open. Very much older bellows types didn't. Of course I've seem thermostats which have been damaged on removed and replaced badly - even the wrong way round.
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