Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / BMW Cars / February 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Coolant temp never gets above blue zone

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 19:00 GMT
Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
15 mile motorway run its barely above it - a mm or so at best and
never anywhere near straight up vertical...

Is this normal or indicative of a problem?

Many thanks
Signature


Shevek

Get DigiGuide - a downloadable desktop PC TV and Radio Guide
http://getdigiguide.com/?p=1&r=31493

Get Firefox!
http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1

Josh Assing - 20 Feb 2006 19:12 GMT
sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat.

>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>Many thanks

--- AntiSpam/harvest ---
Remove X's to send email to me.
Tom K. - 20 Feb 2006 19:25 GMT
>>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>
>>Many thanks

> sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat.

FWIW, there was a recall back in 2001 for the thermostat on my '99 328i.

Tom K.
Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 19:27 GMT
>>>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>>>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>FWIW, there was a recall back in 2001 for the thermostat on my '99 328i.

hmm, it has a full BMW service history so am I correct in thinking
that if there was a recall this would have been sorted?

sorry if I sound like a noob, its because I am! 5 months into my
first!
Signature


Shevek

Get DigiGuide - a downloadable desktop PC TV and Radio Guide
http://getdigiguide.com/?p=1&r=31493

Get Firefox!
http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1

Tom K. - 20 Feb 2006 19:38 GMT
>>>>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>>>>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> hmm, it has a full BMW service history so am I correct in thinking
> that if there was a recall this would have been sorted?

One would think so, but I would have it checked out as the needle should be
straight up after 3-4 miles or so.  Of course, its easily possible that the
thermostat was replaced and the new one is now stuck open after 5 years.

> sorry if I sound like a noob, its because I am! 5 months into my
> first!

No problem.  Hope you are enjoying your E39.

Tom K.
frischmoutt - 20 Feb 2006 20:07 GMT
In the early nineties, on my E30, I got the thermostat stuck open causing
rough revving on cold weather on the highway and bad ideling one or two
minutes just after.
When stopped for 5 minuyes or more, the temperature was almost correct.
The dealer changed the four injectors and lotta more under warranty although
I was claiming to look at the thermostat since, while driving fast, the
needle was pointing towards 1/3 of the scale.

Exhausted of this waste of time and money, I decided to buy a thermostat and
to change it.
That ended all my problems until theu re-appeared last year after 180 000
km. I changed it again.
BTW, if you replace it, make sure you mount it in the correct direction.

Teh dealer
> sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat.
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> --- AntiSpam/harvest ---
> Remove X's to send email to me.
Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 20:39 GMT
>In the early nineties, on my E30, I got the thermostat stuck open causing
>rough revving on cold weather on the highway and bad ideling one or two
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>km. I changed it again.
>BTW, if you replace it, make sure you mount it in the correct direction.

I've got a Haynes manual, I'll take a look and see if its something I
can handle!

>Teh dealer
>> sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>> --- AntiSpam/harvest ---
>> Remove X's to send email to me.
Signature


Shevek

Get DigiGuide - a downloadable desktop PC TV and Radio Guide
http://getdigiguide.com/?p=1&r=31493

Get Firefox!
http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1

Dave Plowman (News) - 20 Feb 2006 19:23 GMT
> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
> 15 mile motorway run its barely above it - a mm or so at best and
> never anywhere near straight up vertical...

Not normal. Mine gets up to temperature as fast as any car I've owned.
Does the heater work well?

Signature

*OK, who stopped payment on my reality check?

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Shevek - 20 Feb 2006 20:37 GMT
>> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>Not normal. Mine gets up to temperature as fast as any car I've owned.
>Does the heater work well?

yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees
(how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?)
Signature


Shevek

Get DigiGuide - a downloadable desktop PC TV and Radio Guide
http://getdigiguide.com/?p=1&r=31493

Get Firefox!
http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1

Dave Plowman (News) - 20 Feb 2006 23:41 GMT
> >> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
> >> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> >Not normal. Mine gets up to temperature as fast as any car I've owned.
> >Does the heater work well?

> yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees
> (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?)

Dunno. 32°F? ;-)

If the heater works normally then the gauge must be reading incorrectly.
So the engine temperature sensor would be my best bet.

Signature

*Never miss a good chance to shut up.*

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Jeff Strickland - 21 Feb 2006 00:05 GMT
>>> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>>> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees
> (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?)

ALT+0176

( 32° )
Jeff Strickland - 21 Feb 2006 00:06 GMT
>>> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>>> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees
> (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?)

That's ALT+0176 on the Numeric Keypad, NOT the number keys on the top row of
your keyboard ...
E Brown - 21 Feb 2006 09:55 GMT
>That's ALT+0176 on the Numeric Keypad, NOT the number keys on the top row of
>your keyboard ...

    A-HA! I've always wondered why this never worked for me (though I'm
usually attempting the symbol for the British pound). I've only got
laptops, so no dedicated keypads on any of my computers. Thanks for
solving that little mystery.
    epbrown
--
2003 BMW 325i Black/Black
2003 BMW Z4 Black/Black
Jeff Strickland - 22 Feb 2006 01:19 GMT
>>That's ALT+0176 on the Numeric Keypad, NOT the number keys on the top row
>>of
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> solving that little mystery.
> epbrown

I haven't got a laptop that I can test the theory on, but laptops have a
function key that when held (or pushed, or whatever it takes) will give you
a numeric key pad. I would assume you would press the function key, then
press and hold the ALT key and then press the keys on the numeric key pad
that you get by pressing the function key first.

There is a Character Map (Start>Programs>Accessories>System Tools>Character
Map) that will give you thousands of key strokes using the ALT Key + the
numeric keys. Of course, you can copy and paste characters from the
Character Map ...
Dave Plowman (News) - 22 Feb 2006 09:43 GMT
> Of course, you can copy and paste characters from the
> Character Map ...

That's what I do as I'd find it impossible to remember little used codes.

Signature

*Keep honking...I'm reloading.

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Jeff Strickland - 26 Feb 2006 01:29 GMT
>> Of course, you can copy and paste characters from the
>> Character Map ...
>
> That's what I do as I'd find it impossible to remember little used codes.

I like to use 241 ( ± ) (this is different than 0241, which gives ñ) and
0176, which gives the degree symbol. The rest I have to use the Character
Map because I don't remember them either ...
Jeff Strickland - 20 Feb 2006 20:42 GMT
This is what a stuck open thermostat might look like in cold weather.

> Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
> temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Many thanks
RT - 21 Feb 2006 02:22 GMT
>Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant
>temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>Many thanks

like others said; thermostat stuck open OR the sending unit bad.
since you said the heater works well it is likely the sending unit is
bad indicating the wrong temperature while it is fine.
however, if it is the thermostat you are getting more wear on your
engine than you want. It stays cold way too long. Thermostats are
cheap, replace it I say. then if it's still not working, replace the
sending unit.
Shevek - 21 Feb 2006 19:15 GMT
Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work:

To Work:

first ~8 miles    town and country    consistent 20-40mph
        top of blue area    ~1/6 of dial

next ~10 miles    motorway        consistent 70mph
        middle of blue area    ~1/12 of dial

next ~3 miles    town            stop/start traffic
        around first white line    ~1/3 of dial

From Work:

first ~3 miles    town            consistent 20-30mph
        top of blue are        ~1/6 of dial

next ~10 miles    motorway        consistent 70mph
        middle of blue area    ~1/12 of dial

next ~3 miles    town            consistent 20-30mph
        top of blue are        ~1/6 of dial

And the heater is NOT working, kept it on 32°C and fan on full blast
on dash vents - at ~1/12 there was very little heat, at ~1/6 it was
warmer and at ~1/3 it was warm but no where near as hot as I think it
should be.

So I guess it must be a dodgy thermostat!

So next question is:

What do I need to buy? I've checked a few websites and phoned a few
local parts places and there basically seem to be two options, some
places only offer the first and other offer both:

1) Thermostat "Kit" consisting of thermostat, housing & gasket ~£40

2) Thermostat inner ~£15
  Thermostat gasket ~£1.50
  Thermostat housing ~£10

Now obviously buying separately is cheaper but do I actually need the
housing? Most of places which drilled down to my specific model only
feature the kit whereas some model specific sites list all 4.

My car is an E39 2000 V plate 528i - do I need the housing or just the
thermostat & gasket?

Sorry for such a long post and thanks for all you help!

Signature

Shevek

Get DigiGuide - a downloadable desktop PC TV and Radio Guide
http://getdigiguide.com/?p=1&r=31493

Get Firefox!
http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1

Dave Plowman (News) - 21 Feb 2006 19:43 GMT
> So I guess it must be a dodgy thermostat!

> So next question is:

> What do I need to buy? I've checked a few websites and phoned a few
> local parts places and there basically seem to be two options, some
> places only offer the first and other offer both:

> 1) Thermostat "Kit" consisting of thermostat, housing & gasket ~£40

> 2) Thermostat inner ~£15
>    Thermostat gasket ~£1.50
>    Thermostat housing ~£10

Generally just the thermostat and gasket. The housing (on mine) is
plastic, but was ok when I changed my thermostat.

You'll also need the correct coolant to top up after changing it. A litre
plus water should be fine. You'll also need to bleed the system properly -
a google should easily find out details.

Signature

*Forget the Joneses, I keep us up with the Simpsons.

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

frischmoutt - 21 Feb 2006 20:54 GMT
If the housing is made of aluminium, normammy, you shouldn't need to replace
it.
I'd rather buy a separate thermostat and the gaskets.
Second, you'll probably need to dismount the fan. Usually a 32 mm nut
reverse screwed.
Just put a spanner on the nut, protect around (obviously) with al old piece
of carpet and hit the spanner with a maller, the inertia will help you and
the nut would easily release .
But, check accurately the spanner dimension on your 528.
You will need also to replace a large amount of cooling fluid.

> Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work:
>
[quoted text clipped - 57 lines]
> Get Firefox!
> http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1
RT - 23 Feb 2006 06:01 GMT
>Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work:
>
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
>
>Sorry for such a long post and thanks for all you help!

whatever you do, I would not drive it anymore until this is fixed.
This is wearing on your engine. Also might want to consider changing
the oil after it is fixed. (smell the dipstick, see if it smells like
gas)
frischmoutt - 23 Feb 2006 21:08 GMT
[...]
> whatever you do, I would not drive it anymore until this is fixed.
> This is wearing on your engine. Also might want to consider changing
> the oil after it is fixed. (smell the dipstick, see if it smells like
> gas)

RT,

What the hell is the reason you would replace the oil?
Condensation?

Bye
RT - 24 Feb 2006 00:17 GMT
>[...]
>> whatever you do, I would not drive it anymore until this is fixed.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>What the hell is the reason you would replace the oil?
>Condensation?

that's one of them. the engine probably never reaches operating temps
including the oil. And not to mention any fuel blowby that collects in
the oil.
Flabay - 24 Feb 2006 13:29 GMT
Had the same problem.  Make sure you replace the Thermostat, Thermostat
0-ring, Thermostat housing gasket.  Also since you opened your cooling
system, make sure you work to get the air out.  How do I know this..... Just
went through it yesterday!  I had to take it a step further, and replace my
radiator since, I had a blow out.

Cheers, David
1995 525i

>> Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
>>
>> Sorry for such a long post and thanks for all you help!
Shevek - 22 Feb 2006 18:28 GMT
Took it to my local garage today... The fixing inside the housing
which holds the thermostat had broken.

I now have a toasty warm car with a vertical needle!

I didn't realise just how cold it had been in there....

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions...

Now, onto my next 2 projects - parking sensors and angel eye
headlights!
Signature


Shevek

Get DigiGuide - a downloadable desktop PC TV and Radio Guide
http://getdigiguide.com/?p=1&r=31493

Get Firefox!
http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1

Dave Plowman (News) - 22 Feb 2006 18:53 GMT
> Took it to my local garage today... The fixing inside the housing
> which holds the thermostat had broken.

The thermostat is clamped in place by the face of the housing.

Signature

*I wish the buck stopped here.  I could use a few.

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

frischmoutt - 22 Feb 2006 20:40 GMT
Agree but,
a thermostat is made of five major parts:
- a big washer,
- a wax/copper cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end,
- a bracket which maintain the cartridge centered onto the big washer
- a second bracket on the opposite side maintaining :
- a spring depressing the valve in closed position against the big washer.
I assume that one of the bracket, where it's crimped inside the big washer
was damaged or broken, letting either the valve opened or the cartridge
askew and the valve partially opened.

He was lucky that no part went into the radiator !

> > Took it to my local garage today... The fixing inside the housing
> > which holds the thermostat had broken.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>     Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
>                   To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Dave Plowman (News) - 23 Feb 2006 01:16 GMT
> a thermostat is made of five major parts: - a big washer, - a wax/copper
> cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end, - a bracket which
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> letting either the valve opened or the cartridge askew and the valve
> partially opened.

In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a thermostat
which was mechanically broken as you suggest.

Signature

*The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up *

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Shevek - 23 Feb 2006 19:50 GMT
>> a thermostat is made of five major parts: - a big washer, - a wax/copper
>> cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end, - a bracket which
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a thermostat
>which was mechanically broken as you suggest.

I'll post a link to a pic soon (once I've taken it!) so you can see
exactly what was broken...
Signature


Shevek

Get DigiGuide - a downloadable desktop PC TV and Radio Guide
http://getdigiguide.com/?p=1&r=31493

Get Firefox!
http://www.spreadfirefox.com/?q=affiliates&id=8681&t=1

frischmoutt - 23 Feb 2006 21:16 GMT
> I'll post a link to a pic soon (once I've taken it!) so you can see
> exactly what was broken...
> --
>
> Shevek

That's called feedback!
And still appreciated.
Thanks
Dave Plowman (News) - 23 Feb 2006 22:28 GMT
> >In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a
> >thermostat which was mechanically broken as you suggest.

> I'll post a link to a pic soon (once I've taken it!) so you can see
> exactly what was broken...

Well yes. But 'damaging' a stuck thermostat on removal is common enough.
Not quite the same thing, though.

Signature

*Therapy is expensive, poppin' bubble wrap is cheap!  You choose.

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

frischmoutt - 23 Feb 2006 21:15 GMT
> > a thermostat is made of five major parts: - a big washer, - a wax/copper
> > cartridge with a plunger and a valve at the end, - a bracket which
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>     Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
>                   To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave,
I didn't see any as well. I had one a little bit twisted on my Spitfire
(second hand) but possibly be due to a bad mounting.
I just pointed out the areas of potential fragility and the possible ways it
failed.
Should the cartridge be leaky, it would have been closed forever.
Of course I may be wrong.
Bye
Dave Plowman (News) - 23 Feb 2006 22:35 GMT
> > In all my *many* years of DIY on cars, I've never come across a
> > thermostat which was mechanically broken as you suggest.

> I didn't see any as well. I had one a little bit twisted on my Spitfire
> (second hand) but possibly be due to a bad mounting. I just pointed out
> the areas of potential fragility and the possible ways it failed. Should
> the cartridge be leaky, it would have been closed forever. Of course I
> may be wrong.

Most modern stats fail 'safe' ie open. Very much older bellows types
didn't. Of course I've seem thermostats which have been damaged on removed
and replaced badly - even the wrong way round.

Signature

*Why is the word abbreviation so long?

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.