1991 325i Clutch issue

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

Peter J Alicea - 07 Apr 2006 00:19 GMT

Hello,
My 1991 325i (6 cyl.)has a problem with the clutch. When I left a
friend's home, I quickly noticed that I was unable to shift gears after
leaving the driveway. I had to let the vehicile stall or place into neutral
in order to stop. Then, to start, I needed to place the gear into neutral.
It is almost impossible to shift to another gear afterwards. I checked the
master cylinder on the firewall and it is full. Any ideas?

Signature

Peter J. Alicea
guitarman76@comcast.net

Reply to this Message

JimV - 07 Apr 2006 01:17 GMT

> Hello,
> My 1991 325i (6 cyl.)has a problem with the clutch. When I left a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> It is almost impossible to shift to another gear afterwards. I checked the
> master cylinder on the firewall and it is full. Any ideas?

Bad slave cylinder.

Reply to this Message

Jack - 07 Apr 2006 17:17 GMT

If it's not leaking fluid, chances are that it is the master cylinder. The
slave cylinder doesn't have a failure mode that doesn't include leaking
(pardon the double negative). The important thing is to get it fixed before
you drive the car any furter. It's very easy to destroy the transmission
and/or starter motor by driving with no clutch.

> Hello,
> My 1991 325i (6 cyl.)has a problem with the clutch. When I left a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> neutral. It is almost impossible to shift to another gear afterwards. I
> checked the master cylinder on the firewall and it is full. Any ideas?

Reply to this Message

Peter J Alicea - 16 Apr 2006 00:00 GMT

Thanks for the advice JimV, and Jack. However, I found the actual problem.
Can you help? The shaft where the clutch pedal makes contact is broken
inside the cylinder housing.. How does one remove/replace it? I cannot
figure out how to get at the 2 bolts on the side housing of the cylinder,
and I do not know what is involved to remove it afterwards. ANy suggestions?

Signature

Peter J. Alicea
guitarman76@comcast.net

Reply to this Message

Jack - 16 Apr 2006 01:09 GMT

I believe that you will have to replace the entire master cylinder assembly
because they don't sell the piston rod separately.
Here is a link to the online parts catalog showing the connections you will
have to deal with.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF31&mospid=47430&btnr=21_0059&hg=
21&fg=10

Here are the replacement instructions from my Haynes manual:

1) Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and siphon out sufficient fluid so
that the fluid level is below the level of the reservoir fluid hose
connection to the clutch master cylinder. (The brake fluid reservoir feeds
both the brake and clutch hydraulic systems). DO NOT empty the reservoir as
this will draw air into the brake hydraulic circuits.

2) Disconnect the clutch master cylinder hose from the brake fluid
reservoir. Be prepared for fluid spillage and plug the open end of the hose
(with a pencil) to prevent dirt entry.

3) Working inside the vehicle, remove the securing screws and remove the
drivers side lower dash trim panel.

4) Where applicable, disconnect the clutch pedal return spring, using a
suitable pair of pliers, to enable the clutch master cycinder
pushrod-to-pedal clevis pin to be removed.

5) Pry off the clip securing the master cyclinder pushrod-to-pedal clevis
pin and remove the clevis pin.

6) Unscrew the two bolts and nut securing the master cylinder to the pedal
bracket in the footwell, noting that the bolts also secure the brake light
switch mounting bracket. Release the master cylinder from the bracket and
ease the fluid hose through the firewall grommet taking care not to strain
the pipe.

7) Inspect the master cylinder for leaks or damage and replace if necessary.
No spare parts are available for the master cylinder and if faulty, the
entire unit must be replaced.

8) Installation is the reverse of removal bearing in mind the following
points.
a) Take care not to strain the master cylinder fluid pipe during
installation
b) Use a new master cylinder self-locking securing nut.
c) On completion, top up the level in the brake fluid reservoir, then
bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

> Thanks for the advice JimV, and Jack. However, I found the actual problem.
> Can you help? The shaft where the clutch pedal makes contact is broken
> inside the cylinder housing.. How does one remove/replace it? I cannot
> figure out how to get at the 2 bolts on the side housing of the cylinder,
> and I do not know what is involved to remove it afterwards. ANy
> suggestions?

Reply to this Message

Peter J Alicea - 16 Apr 2006 03:53 GMT

Thanks Jack. It looks like it will be a little easier to do than I thought.
Also, when you state that the "Master Cylinder Assembly" needs to be
replaced, are you referring to the "input cylinder clutch" ?

Signature

Peter J. Alicea
guitarman76@comcast.net

Reply to this Message

Jack - 16 Apr 2006 09:16 GMT

Yes, sorry for the inconsistant nomenclature.

> Thanks Jack. It looks like it will be a little easier to do than I
> thought. Also, when you state that the "Master Cylinder Assembly" needs to
> be replaced, are you referring to the "input cylinder clutch" ?

Reply to this Message