Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / March 2004
How to secure a sub enclosure
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Kevin Scott - 05 Mar 2004 19:39 GMT I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a sub enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much space.
TIA.
Sonoman - 05 Mar 2004 21:25 GMT I use bungie cords, they work well for me.
> I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a sub > enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much > space. > > TIA. sancho - 06 Mar 2004 01:27 GMT > I use bungie cords, they work well for me. good luck picking that box out of the back of your head... -- sancho
Z. Gluhak - 06 Mar 2004 04:45 GMT > good luck picking that box out of the back of your head... > -- > sancho will it really fly out of the trunk through the seats in case of an accident and if so much force was there, would 2 l brackets really preventi it?
sancho - 06 Mar 2004 05:08 GMT > will it really fly out of the trunk through the seats in case of an accident yes... imagine your average subwoofer box travelling at ~60mph hitting the back of your seats... all that is required to remove most back seats is light hand force...
> and if so much force was there, would 2 l brackets really preventi it? 2? maybe not... did i suggest using only 2? though two would be better than bungie cords any day i'd think...
i just read a story about a girl catching a box with her head... she won't be breathing again anytime soon...
http://www.teamrocs.com/news/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=19
and i know a guy... a fellow teamROCS member who had a box shift during cornering causing him to lose control and, if i remember correctly, total a perfectly good asian shitbox... -- sancho it's your a.s... do what you like...
Z. Gluhak - 06 Mar 2004 14:30 GMT > > will it really fly out of the trunk through the seats in case of an > accident > > yes... imagine your average subwoofer box travelling at ~60mph hitting the > back of your seats... all that is required to remove most back seats is > light hand force... You are probably right...I keep thinking of my install where the box is against the back seat and in an accident it wouldn't be 'flying' at the seat as it's against the seat. but if the box were loose in a larger trunk it would probably happen as you suggest.
> > and if so much force was there, would 2 l brackets really preventi it? > > 2? maybe not... did i suggest using only 2? though two would be better than > bungie cords any day i'd think... yeah probably need 4 heavy duty steel brackets at least not 2 cheap aluminum ones
thelizman - 06 Mar 2004 18:32 GMT > i just read a story about a girl catching a box with her head... she won't > be breathing again anytime soon... [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > cornering causing him to lose control and, if i remember correctly, total a > perfectly good asian shitbox... All of which could have been prevented with a $5 set of high-strength quick-release latches available at most hardware stores in the cabinetry section.
 Signature thelizman "I didn't steal the FAQ either"
Before you ask a question, check the FAQs for this newsgroup at http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq. It contains over a decade and a half of knowledge.
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John Durbin - 07 Mar 2004 00:40 GMT Then there was the accident that one of the Seahawks was in, guy was their running back as I recall... SUV went out of control in the rain, smashed into something hard (telephone pole or tree or somesuch) and the woofer box with a pair of 15's ended up crushing his buddy in the back seat. That's crushing, as in "to death"...
JD seatbelts, big honking brackets holding down your sub box, and common sense should NOT be optional
> > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > thelizman - 06 Mar 2004 18:22 GMT >>I use bungie cords, they work well for me. > > good luck picking that box out of the back of your head... If he's in WA, he'll just get a ticket.
http://www.teamrocs.com/news/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=19&mode=&ord er=0&thold=0
 Signature thelizman "I didn't steal the FAQ either"
Before you ask a question, check the FAQs for this newsgroup at http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq. It contains over a decade and a half of knowledge.
teamROCS Car Audio Forums http://www.teamrocs.com/caraudio/ teamROCS Car Audio News http://www.teamrocs.com/news/ "It's about the music, stupid"
This post is Copyright (C) 2004. Reproduction of its content anywhere other than usenet without the express written permission of the author is forbidden.
Sonoman - 08 Mar 2004 02:48 GMT I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need a lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on a collission.
> > I use bungie cords, they work well for me. > > good luck picking that box out of the back of your head... > -- > sancho Z. Gluhak - 09 Mar 2004 02:59 GMT > I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the > same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need a > lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't > think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on a > collission. Unless you flip over a few times. I'm gonna fasten mine well in my hatchback after giving it some thought. Think about it. You flip the car over, the box comes out. Flip it over sideways after that and it's in your head. I'm not gonna risk it.
DJ TecThreat - 09 Mar 2004 12:39 GMT I drive an SUV and have 3 15"s..... My box is secured to the cargo area floor with 8 heavey guage bolts that come out the other side and have nuts and washers tightened to the max, not to mention the box is fiberglassed in... Aint goin' no-wea'!
DJ TecThreat The Real Threat
> > I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the > > same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > box comes out. Flip it over sideways after that and it's in your head. I'm > not gonna risk it. sancho - 10 Mar 2004 04:26 GMT > I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the > same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need a > lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't > think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on a > collission. don't come crying to me
Don Hills - 10 Mar 2004 06:18 GMT >I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the >same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need a >lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't >think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on a >collission. It will, easily. I'll bet that unless you're a weedy little runt, there's a good chance you'd be able to lie in the back of the car and break the seat backs just by kicking hard against them with your legs.
Now, go here and read:
http://www.vcu.edu/cppweb/tstc/kinetic.html
They point out that forces of 40 to 50 G are routinely recorded during the standard 30 MPH crash tests. Your sub box weighs, for example, 50 pounds. Multiply that by 50: 50 x 50 = 2500 pounds.
That's well over a ton. If you were to suspend your car nose down, then stack over a ton of weights onto the back of the seat, do you think the seat locks would hold? Would you be prepared to be buckled into the driver's seat while the weights were stacked? What do you think would happen to you if more than a ton of weights landed on you? It'd be ironic if you were to hit something, be saved by the seat belt and airbag, then be mashed to strawberry jam by your sub box.
Bolt that sub box to the vehicle frame. NOW.
It needs to be bolted down as securely as a trailer hitch would be mounted. This means high-tensile bolts and big load spreading washers. The bolts should run right through the box- it's no use just bolting the bottom down, the rest of the box will likely rip off it and go flying.
If you doubt that, just take a sledge hammer to an old sub box sometime.(*) I'll wager that it'll only take one big swing to break out the bottom or a side if you hit it from the inside near one edge (puts the joint under maximum tension). The sledge head weighs 20 pounds or less and is moving less than 30 MPH. I'll bet your sub drivers weigh 20 pounds or more, and they will be moving faster in even a moderate collison.
(*) Yes, I have done this. They were water and smoke damaged and had to be written off. We broke them up so they'd pack flat in the dumpster.
 Signature Don Hills (dmhills at attglobaldotnet) Wellington, New Zealand
Tony Fernandes - 10 Mar 2004 09:14 GMT Don't you all remember the story from driver's education about the tissue box that was sitting on the rear parcel shelf? Some poor guy got hit in the back of the neck with it during a collision and it impacted against his spinal cord so hard it paralyzed him.
Tony
 Signature What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact
DJ TecThreat - 05 Mar 2004 22:11 GMT $.20 metal "L" brackets at the local hardware store if its a medium to large box... industrial strength velcro pads if its a relativily small encloser.
Hope that helps DJ TecThreat The Real Threat
> I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a sub > enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much > space. > > TIA. sancho - 06 Mar 2004 01:30 GMT > $.20 metal "L" brackets at the local hardware store if its a medium to large > box... that's more like it... metal brackets, bolts, screws... something strong...
> industrial strength velcro pads if its a relativily small encloser. by industrial strength you mean MEGA SUPER WICKED STRENGTH i hope... and by relatively small you mean MEGA SUPER WICKED SMALL... right?
or he could just practice ducking... really fast... -- sancho DANGER
jw - 06 Mar 2004 05:19 GMT Don't sleep. Velcro, properly used, is a surprisingly effective fastener. The heavy duty stuff has very strong adhesive and fabric - the weak point in your installation would be the adhesive, i.e.; the grip the Velcro has on the trunk surface. It is very difficult to shear a well engineered Velcro connection. You want to have the Velcro oriented so that failure would mean the box would "slide" the Velcro apart, not lift it apart.
> > $.20 metal "L" brackets at the local hardware store if its a medium to > large [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > sancho > DANGER Captain Howdy - 06 Mar 2004 05:34 GMT Oh god, some people
>or he could just practice ducking... really fast... sanitarium - 06 Mar 2004 06:31 GMT In a previous install I used 3/8" dia carriage bolts, washers and bolt it to the frame / unibody. Of course you have to drill a hole through the sheetmetal subfloor, crawl under the car and torque down the bolts from the under side. I used stainless hardware to avoid rust. Only way for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to rip the washers through the MDF.
Garrett
>I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a sub >enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Tony Fernandes - 06 Mar 2004 14:57 GMT People!!! Don't use velcro and don't use bungee cords!!!
The sheer force involved in an accident or hard cornering/braking combined with a heavy sub box could easily overwhelm these "achoring" devices.
Use some good, solid metal brackets or bolts and mount them securely to the trunk floor or wall...or both.
Tony
 Signature What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact
> In a previous install I used 3/8" dia carriage bolts, washers and bolt > it to the frame / unibody. Of course you have to drill a hole through [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > > >TIA. thelizman - 06 Mar 2004 18:41 GMT > Only way > for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to rip the > washers through the MDF. Suprisingly easy, especially with MDF that's ever gotten wet.
 Signature thelizman "I didn't steal the FAQ either"
Before you ask a question, check the FAQs for this newsgroup at http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq. It contains over a decade and a half of knowledge.
teamROCS Car Audio Forums http://www.teamrocs.com/caraudio/ teamROCS Car Audio News http://www.teamrocs.com/news/ "It's about the music, stupid"
This post is Copyright (C) 2004. Reproduction of its content anywhere other than usenet without the express written permission of the author is forbidden.
sancho - 06 Mar 2004 20:07 GMT > > Only way > > for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to rip the > > washers through the MDF. > > Suprisingly easy, especially with MDF that's ever gotten wet. yeah... you might want to seal any holes you've made through to the outside world... some rubber gaskets with the washers... maybe some silicone... -- sancho moisture + mdf = pulp
sanitarium - 07 Mar 2004 23:54 GMT Yet still more secure than bunjy cords or velcro.
Garrett
>> Only way for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to >> rip the washers through the MDF. > > Suprisingly easy, especially with MDF that's ever gotten wet.
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