 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / April 2004Im scared of blowing my subs!
I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to form a 4-ohm load. I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The two channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms. I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on and see what happens. Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap) with this power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back of my car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each. I like to use the 'motorcycle analogy'... There are plenty bikes that can go 200MPH, but that doesn't mean you have to ride faster than the speed limit! The amp can be turned down... Right?! David UnderTheDash.com > I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to > form a 4-ohm load. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back of my > car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each. > I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to > form a 4-ohm load. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back of my > car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each. If you feel you need to run the bass boost, then I'm telling you that's not a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up and give you an estimate on its actual power output. Starsound Jackslammer 1500W www.starsound.co.za It is rated 600W rms when all four channels have been bridged. I really wouldn't judge the amp on the subs I currently have. The amp like cost me R1400 ($220) and the subs were R80 ($12) each. > > I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to > > form a 4-ohm load. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up and give > you an estimate on its actual power output. Ok, then it's a 600w amp. Sounds more reasonable. Are the channels bridged?  SignatureMark remove "remove" and "spam" to reply > Starsound Jackslammer 1500W www.starsound.co.za > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up and give > > you an estimate on its actual power output. Yes, I am using two of the four channels and they are bridged to form one 300W rms channel > Ok, then it's a 600w amp. Sounds more reasonable. Are the channels > bridged? [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > give > > > you an estimate on its actual power output. Ok, so you have two 175 watt subs each receiving 150 watts. It'll be difficult to blow the subs. SignatureMark remove "remove" and "spam" to reply > Yes, I am using two of the four channels and they are bridged to form one > 300W rms channel [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > > give > > > > you an estimate on its actual power output. > Ok, so you have two 175 watt subs each receiving 150 watts. It'll be > difficult to blow the subs. [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] > > > give > > > > > you an estimate on its actual power output. Yes, Thats what I figured but aparently 175W nom is not the same as 175W rms > Yes, Thats what I figured but aparently 175W nom is not the same as 175W rms Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this conversation isn't really fruitful. >> Yes, Thats what I figured but aparently 175W nom is not the same as 175W >rms > >Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially >meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this conversation >isn't really fruitful. I agree that the manufacturers are kind of out-to-lunch with some of their units of measure, but I wouldn't go so far to say the ratings are "meaningless", as long as the speaker manufacturers and the amplifier manufacturers are on the same page. For example, both car stereo amplifiers and car speakers are rated in "Watts", when they should technically be rated in volt-amperes. While the Watt is the incorrect unit of measure, at least both the speaker and amp manufacturers are using the same incorrect measure. Even with the wrong units, we're able to adequately match our amps to our speakers, and the Earth continues to turn on its axis... Scott Gardner > >Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially > >meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this conversation [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > are "meaningless", as long as the speaker manufacturers and the > amplifier manufacturers are on the same page. Which is almost never the case. > For example, both car stereo amplifiers and car speakers are rated in > "Watts", when they should technically be rated in volt-amperes. While > the Watt is the incorrect unit of measure, at least both the speaker > and amp manufacturers are using the same incorrect measure. And they're both incorrectly using "RMS power" when they really mean "average power". :) So yeah, they're all f'd up. > Even with > the wrong units, we're able to adequately match our amps to our > speakers, and the Earth continues to turn on its axis... We're really not, because manufacturers are so conservative or liberal with their ratings. >> >Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially >> >meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >We're really not, because manufacturers are so conservative or liberal with >their ratings. True, but a company that habitually over- or underrates its equipment is going to do so whether they use the correct engineering terms or not, so that's more of a marketing philosophy. > I agree that the manufacturers are kind of out-to-lunch with some of > their units of measure, but I wouldn't go so far to say the ratings > are "meaningless", as long as the speaker manufacturers and the > amplifier manufacturers are on the same page. I agree on this point. I believe the "watts" spec is mainly to help people without an electronics background to match their speakers and amps. Expecting them to take time-averaged power and reactive power into account is asking a bit much. Things get complicated quickly and also depend largely on the end installation. > For example, both car stereo amplifiers and car speakers are rated in > "Watts", when they should technically be rated in volt-amperes. While > the Watt is the incorrect unit of measure, at least both the speaker > and amp manufacturers are using the same incorrect measure. Even with > the wrong units, we're able to adequately match our amps to our > speakers, and the Earth continues to turn on its axis... The wattage rating of a driver implies the thermal limits and I think it has it's place. The maximum VA spec of a driver is largely dependent on the installation, but it would be a useful spec for amplifiers. It would be nice if manufacturers supplied much more detailed spec sheets including testing methods but I think they're afraid of confusing consumers. It would also hamper the marketing games they play so I don't expect we'll see useful specs any time soon. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.