Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / April 2004

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

What Gauge Power Cable Do I Need for...

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Matt Bhame - 12 Apr 2004 17:49 GMT
I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years.  I
can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has two
60A fuses in it!!!  That sounds pretty doggone high to me!  Or is that just
normal for a Class A amp?  Pioneer's site has no info on the fuses and mine
is packed away until summertime.  

But anyways, whatever the fuses are rated at, and I'll just assume 60A
here... is there some gauge:fuse 'rule' to go by?

Also, I just noticed Pioneer's site says the amp has 2 RCA Outputs (Pass-
Thru)...what are they for?  I assume they continue sending passive signal
through the amp...what good is that for?  
Scott Gardner - 12 Apr 2004 18:38 GMT
>I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years.  I
>can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has two
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>Thru)...what are they for?  I assume they continue sending passive signal
>through the amp...what good is that for?  

Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
amp(s).  This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
component speakers with the X924 and wanted to use another amplifier
for the subs.  

For a 260-watt class "A" amp, two 60-A fuses sound about right,
especially since the amp is 1-ohm stable.  Class "A" amps have very
low efficiency numbers, so they tend to draw a lot of current to make
significant power.

You should be fine with 4-gauge wire to the amp.  In short lengths,
the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
of current.

Scott Gardner
MZ - 12 Apr 2004 18:57 GMT
> Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
> amp(s).  This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
> of current.

Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??
Scott Gardner - 12 Apr 2004 19:21 GMT
>> Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
>> amp(s).  This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??

Beats me - if someone can hear the difference between a good class A
amp and a good class AB amp, the difference is going to be lost inside
a car, anyway.
Matt Bhame - 12 Apr 2004 21:52 GMT
>> Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
>> amp(s).  This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??

Because it's the only Amp I have, pal.
BTW, thanks for responding with an appropriate reply.
MZ - 12 Apr 2004 23:37 GMT
> > Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??
>
> Because it's the only Amp I have, pal.
> BTW, thanks for responding with an appropriate reply.

Scott already responded with a sufficient reply.  I was more curious about
why someone would buy one of those for car use.  As it is, they're already
questionable for home use.
FHLH002 - 13 Apr 2004 02:58 GMT
their heater is busted?

FHLH

> Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??
Les - 12 Apr 2004 23:55 GMT
"Scott Gardner" <gardners14@cox.net> wrote in message > You should be fine
with 4-gauge wire to the amp.  In short lengths,
> the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
> of current.

I have found that 4 gauge is rated for 135 amps in open air. So being
underneath a car hood and shoved through grommets then ran underneath carpet
the wire would no longer be able to dissipate the heat. I have typically
used 100 amp max as my rule of thumb for 4 gauge in a car. 2 gauge is not
that much larger or more expensive in my opinion.

Les
Scott Gardner - 13 Apr 2004 00:33 GMT
>"Scott Gardner" <gardners14@cox.net> wrote in message > You should be fine
>with 4-gauge wire to the amp.  In short lengths,
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>Les

I think that the amount of time you'd actually be sending 135 amps
through the wire would be very small, but it never hurts to use larger
wire, and you're right - 2-gauge or even 1/0 isn't that much more
expensive.

Scott
Les - 13 Apr 2004 00:48 GMT
"Scott Gardner" <gardners14@cox.net> wrote in message > >

> I think that the amount of time you'd actually be sending 135 amps
> through the wire would be very small,

Very true, but since I do alot of electrical work, both in car and
buildings, I have to caution myself against justifying using underrated wire
even though I know it can easily handle it in situations that it is likely
to see. Like this situation I would be almost positive that it could handle
the load, but must resist the urge to use it.

but it never hurts to use larger
> wire, and you're right - 2-gauge or even 1/0 isn't that much more
> expensive.

Ya to me it just makes sense to get the appropriate sized wire.
But if you cannot, or don't want too, as long as the wire is properly fused
it doesn't really matter.

Les
Matt Bhame - 14 Apr 2004 13:24 GMT
> "Scott Gardner" <gardners14@cox.net> wrote in message > >
>> >
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Les

Let's assume I get a 4gauge...if I wanted to add a sub later, should I run
a 2 or 1/0 first and split it off in a distribution block later whenever I
do get the sub?
Donald Sherwood - 20 Apr 2004 01:52 GMT
Not to come off as an a.s, but I doubt that it's class A amp, especially at
those wattages and 1 Ohm load. You realize that normally it will cost you
about $10 to $50 a watt for some true class A amps, and they usally only put
out around 5 to 25.

The class A circuitry they boast is for the low-level side (Pre-amp) side of
the amp.

Signature

1991 Tornado Red Corrado, CCA Member # 6645
Stereo is a continuous  W.I.P.

There are two parts to wisdom:
1) Having a lot to say, and
2) Not saying it.

> I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years.  I
> can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has two
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Thru)...what are they for?  I assume they continue sending passive signal
> through the amp...what good is that for?
Peter Klein - 22 Apr 2004 21:35 GMT
Use four gauge if you are running from the battery to the trunk. Remember
that "power" also includes ground, and that should also be four gauge. Don't
forget to insert an in-line fuse six to eight inches from the battery. P.

> I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years.  I
> can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has two
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Thru)...what are they for?  I assume they continue sending passive signal
> through the amp...what good is that for?
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.