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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / June 2004

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Best subs...

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Tim Louquet - 06 May 2004 04:56 GMT
I'm looking for opinions on the best subwoofer available at any price.  My
amp pushes 300W rms at 4 ohms.  I'd like either a 10" or a 12" single
subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
n8 skow - 06 May 2004 06:10 GMT
Well, what is 'your' opinion of the 'best' sub...

n8

> I'm looking for opinions on the best subwoofer available at any price.  My
> amp pushes 300W rms at 4 ohms.  I'd like either a 10" or a 12" single
> subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
Tim Louquet - 06 May 2004 06:48 GMT
My experience is limited, which is why I'm asking for more knowlegeable
opinions.  I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their
performance.  A guy at a "high-end" shop tried to sell me on Image Dynamics.
Checked out their website and they look good on paper...then again most
anything looks good on paper.

> Well, what is 'your' opinion of the 'best' sub...
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> > subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> > music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
Tony Fernandes - 06 May 2004 07:50 GMT
"I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their performance."

Then you should be happy with a W7.

"A guy at a "high-end" shop tried to sell me on Image Dynamics."

And you certainly wouldn't be unhappy with one of those, either!!

Tony

Signature

What's more likely?  That an all-powerful mysterious god created the
universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence?  Or, that
he simply doesn't exist at all?  And that we created him so that we wouldn't
have to feel so small and alone.  -Eleanor Arroway, Contact

> My experience is limited, which is why I'm asking for more knowlegeable
> opinions.  I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> > > subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> > > music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
Daniel Snooks - 06 May 2004 15:57 GMT
> "I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their performance."
>
> Then you should be happy with a W7.

A W7 on 300W? Are you insane?
Perhaps a W3v2 from JL would be appropriate (dual 2-ohm)

> "A guy at a "high-end" shop tried to sell me on Image Dynamics."
>
> And you certainly wouldn't be unhappy with one of those, either!!

ID gets more than it's share of nods on RAC, most people like the bonus of
small space requirements (especially with the IDQ line).

Here is a small list of recommendations (in no particular order and by no
means complete):
- Adire
- Kicker
- Rockford Fosgate
- Focal
- Orion
- Alpine
- Pioneer
- Cerwin Vega
- Elemental Designs
- Kaption
- Kenwood
- Oz Audio
- PPI

For the most part, the install makes all the difference.
Tony Fernandes - 06 May 2004 20:41 GMT
Then you should be happy with a W7.

> A W7 on 300W? Are you insane?

Yes, I am.  Sorry, I was really tired.  Missed that part.

Never mind!!

Tony

Signature

What's more likely?  That an all-powerful mysterious god created the
universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence?  Or, that
he simply doesn't exist at all?  And that we created him so that we wouldn't
have to feel so small and alone.  -Eleanor Arroway, Contact

> > "I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their
> performance."
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> For the most part, the install makes all the difference.
Scott Johnson - 06 May 2004 22:25 GMT
> > "I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their
> performance."
> >
> > Then you should be happy with a W7.
>
> A W7 on 300W? Are you insane?

/snip/

what the problem? are you saying it won't work on 300 watts?
Daniel Snooks - 07 May 2004 12:34 GMT
> > > "I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their
> > performance."
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> what the problem? are you saying it won't work on 300 watts?

Never even hinted that it wouldn't work. However, if I am going to burn that
kind of cash on a sub you can be damn sure I won't settle for less then a
1/4 of the power it can handle. It would be a colossal waste of money.
MZ - 06 May 2004 17:37 GMT
> "I've owned JL Audio subs and have been very happy with their performance."
>
> Then you should be happy with a W7.

Overkill.  Maybe a 12w0 or 12w3 or something, if they're still making those.
I don't know what kind of crazy crap JL is up to these days.
Eric Desrochers - 06 May 2004 22:13 GMT
> I'm looking for opinions on the best subwoofer available at any price.  My
> amp pushes 300W rms at 4 ohms.  I'd like either a 10" or a 12" single
> subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.

I use and like a NHT 1259, with the same power as you mentionned.  Be
warned that it needs a big enclosure.  Mine have 2.5 cu-feet, sealed.

They sell those at madisound.com for 150 USD

Regards,
Signature

Eric (Dero) Desrochers
http://homepage.mac.com/dero72

Hiroshima 45, Tchernobyl 86, Windows 95

Onyi C. Ejiasa - 06 May 2004 23:18 GMT
Tim,

If it helps you any, I currently have a Directed Electronics amp that sends
300 Watts RMS to my Eclipse sub (87121 DVC). The enclosure is no more than
.75 cubic ft. I get good performance on just about any type of music
(including rock and hip hop).

P.S. - The JLAudio 12W7 needs about 1000W RMS to function best. :)
Signature

--------------------------------------------------------------
Vote for my install @ sounddomain.com!
http://www.sounddomain.com/id/blaqaltima
--------------------------------------------------------------

> I'm looking for opinions on the best subwoofer available at any price.  My
> amp pushes 300W rms at 4 ohms.  I'd like either a 10" or a 12" single
> subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
Scott Johnson - 07 May 2004 01:25 GMT
> Tim,
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> P.S. - The JLAudio 12W7 needs about 1000W RMS to function best. :)

I would consider that sub to be a piece of junk then. 1000 watts on a sub is
competition material.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/headtohead/w7.cfm
Tha Ghee - 29 May 2004 02:37 GMT
> > Tim,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> competition material.
> http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/headtohead/w7.cfm

it's not a piece of junk, that's they way Mr. Smith and the crew designed
it, to work with 1kwrms or more.
Peter Klein - 15 Jun 2004 01:13 GMT
Amps do not send their total rated output to any subwoofer. The subwoofer is
an acoustic motor that runs on a fuel called wattage. The sub draws the
wattage as it needs it to produce the bass. 300 watts is definitely enough
to drive any 12" sub. What matters is the type of enclosure, is it a sealed
box or a more complex enclosure like a bandpass? P.

> > > Tim,
> > >
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> it's not a piece of junk, that's they way Mr. Smith and the crew designed
> it, to work with 1kwrms or more.
Daniel Snooks - 15 Jun 2004 17:29 GMT
> Amps do not send their total rated output to any subwoofer. The subwoofer is
> an acoustic motor that runs on a fuel called wattage. The sub draws the
> wattage as it needs it to produce the bass.

Who told you this clap-trap?
If what you are saying is true, no-one would ever be able to blow their
speakers.

Now, in reality ... an amplifier receives signal from the pre-amp (head
unit) and amplifies that signal. That's it, no magic involved. The amplifier
could care less what speaker(s) may be wired to it.
Here is a simplistic scenario:
A given amp has the gain set to saturate with a 2V input signal (maximum
output given a 2V input) This amp is rated to produce 350W RMS x 1 @ 4ohm. A
4ohm sub is wired to it. It doesn't matter what the rated power handling of
the sub is, when a signal comes down the line at 2V strength, the amp will
be pushing 350W into the sub. If the sub can only handle 200W RMS then it
will bottom out because of the excessive power going through the coil. If
the sub can handle 1200W RMS then it will barely move with only 350W
applied.

> 300 watts is definitely enough
> to drive any 12" sub.

More stupidity ... if a sub is designed to handle 1000W RMS, it's not going
to go very far with only 300W pushing it. Where are you getting this
information?

> What matters is the type of enclosure, is it a sealed
> box or a more complex enclosure like a bandpass? P.

Why does the enclosure type matter?
Todd - 15 Jun 2004 19:21 GMT
Daniel,

   You wrote:

   "If the sub can handle 1200W RMS then it will barely move with only 350W applied."

   That is not necessarily true. It depends how efficient the speaker is. And 350 watts
ought to make even a 1200 watt rated sub more than "barely move."
Signature

Todd

Brandon Buckner - 15 Jun 2004 19:40 GMT
You haven't played with the Diamond TDX have you? 1100 barely makes that
thing move. ;)

Brandonb

> Daniel,
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>     That is not necessarily true. It depends how efficient the speaker is. And 350 watts
> ought to make even a 1200 watt rated sub more than "barely move."
Richard Kuschel - 16 Jun 2004 06:39 GMT
\
>Now, in reality ... an amplifier receives signal from the pre-amp (head
>unit) and amplifies that signal. That's it, no magic involved. The amplifier
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>to go very far with only 300W pushing it. Where are you getting this
>information?

Where are you getting your information?

A speaker that can handle 1000 watts is only going to be aabout 5dB quieter at
300 watts  And that is going to be pretty loud even with the least effecient of
speakers

Drive that amplifier into distortion and the speaker will over heat and
eventually burn out even if the speaker is rated for 1000 watts.

>> What matters is the type of enclosure, is it a sealed
>> box or a more complex enclosure like a bandpass? P.
>
>Why does the enclosure type matter?

An enclosure does matter, it radically modifies the effeciency and frequency
response of a speaker.

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty
Les - 15 Jun 2004 07:17 GMT
> >More stupidity ... if a sub is designed to handle 1000W RMS, it's not going
> >to go very far with only 300W pushing it. Where are you getting this
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Drive that amplifier into distortion and the speaker will over heat and
> eventually burn out even if the speaker is rated for 1000 watts.

If and ONLY IF you exceed the power handling of the driver. If the power
ratings are actual then a 300W amp is not going to burn out a 1000 watt
driver. Even at severe clipping you could maybe get 600 watts out of it. Not
enough to burn out a true 1000 watt driver.

> Richard H. Kuschel
> "I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

I agree, unfortunately most audio myths have some background in physics that
has just been slightly twisted to make sense, at least until you examine
them closely.

Les
Richard Kuschel - 16 Jun 2004 13:29 GMT
>If and ONLY IF you exceed the power handling of the driver. If the power
>ratings are actual then a 300W amp is not going to burn out a 1000 watt
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>Les

It's pretty easy to burn up a driver by feeding it DC and still not exceed the
power handling of the system.

The heat doesn't disapate from the voice coil and the voice coil warps
destroying the speaker.  

Sine Waves can also have a very fast deleterious effect on speakers.

Fortunately  music isn't DC or sine waves.

I have seen lots of guitar amp speakers destroyed by amplifiers that had less
power than the ratings of the speakers.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty
Les - 15 Jun 2004 20:08 GMT
> >If and ONLY IF you exceed the power handling of the driver. If the power
> >ratings are actual then a 300W amp is not going to burn out a 1000 watt
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> It's pretty easy to burn up a driver by feeding it DC and still not exceed the
> power handling of the system.

Sure, but if your amp is sending DC to the speaker then you have a faulty
amp. The discussion is based on a properly functioning driver and amp. I
could burn out voice coils in many creative ways, but they are not relevant.

> The heat doesn't disapate from the voice coil and the voice coil warps
> destroying the speaker.
>
> Sine Waves can also have a very fast deleterious effect on speakers.

What deleterious effects are you reffering too? Sure if you play a low sine
wave, say 30Hz for example, to loud you could make the driver take a leap of
faith out of its basket. But unless you exceed the power limits of the
driver you don't "burn out" the VC.

> Fortunately  music isn't DC or sine waves.

Yep. Good thing too, listening to music made from sine waves would get old
real quick.

> I have seen lots of guitar amp speakers destroyed by amplifiers that had less
> power than the ratings of the speakers.

What destroyed them?

Les
Richard Kuschel - 16 Jun 2004 23:05 GMT
>> I have seen lots of guitar amp speakers destroyed by amplifiers that had
>less
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>Les

Usually sustained feedback., basically full power sine waves.

Occasionally, using limiters allowed enough current without cooling to loosen
up the windings on the voice coils .  Crest factor is diminished which is the
difference between the average leve of a signal and peak level. Almost all
modern music has been squashed in this manner on CD mastering.

On our bigger PA systems the magnets get really hot after a night of use. Lots
of heat to dissapate. Over time, the magnets would get hot enough that the
cooling effect would be negated.

Not necessarily related to too much power, but woofers can self destruct if the
speaker is run at a frequency that is below what the cabinet can support  the
cone.

When this happens, Spiders rip and surrounds can fall apart, the voice coil may
bottom out or jump the gap--Same result- no more good sound.

Now that said I generally use amplifiers with almost twice the power rating as
the speaker.  No distortion and better sound.

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty
Les - 15 Jun 2004 23:41 GMT
> >> I have seen lots of guitar amp speakers destroyed by amplifiers that had
> >less
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Usually sustained feedback., basically full power sine waves.

The VC does not care if your playing full power sine waves or music. What
matters is that you do not exceed the power handling of the driver. From
what I have seen, guitar amplifiers are generally more powerful than thier
speakers. Celestion greenbacks are only 25 watts, yet are highly regarded. I
still don't see how a sine wave is going to burn up a VC without exceeded
the power limits.

> Occasionally, using limiters allowed enough current without cooling to loosen
> up the windings on the voice coils .  Crest factor is diminished which is the
> difference between the average leve of a signal and peak level. Almost all
> modern music has been squashed in this manner on CD mastering.

It may be, but the fact still remains that X number of watts is X number of
watts. And if your amp is capable of X and the driver is capable of 2X then
it doesn't matter is its a mastered CD, a live band, or a sine wave. If you
don't exceed the power limits then your driver is fine.

> On our bigger PA systems the magnets get really hot after a night of use. Lots
> of heat to dissapate. Over time, the magnets would get hot enough that the
> cooling effect would be negated.

That is why the average power handling of the driver is important. But
depending on the manufacture it can be achieved different ways. I have seen
it expressed on several Pro cabinets as a 20Hz-20Khz noise played at X watts
for 4 or 8 hours.

> Not necessarily related to too much power, but woofers can self destruct if the
> speaker is run at a frequency that is below what the cabinet can support  the
> cone.

Right. That is why it is important to be sure you high pass below the tuning
frequency. The cone has no damping below that.

> When this happens, Spiders rip and surrounds can fall apart, the voice coil may
> bottom out or jump the gap--Same result- no more good sound.

Been there, really sucks too.

> Now that said I generally use amplifiers with almost twice the power rating as
> the speaker.  No distortion and better sound.

I agree. I like the headroom to know that I can go that extra volume without
my amps distorting. With too little power you always run out of gas.

> Richard H. Kuschel
> "I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

Les
Richard Kuschel - 17 Jun 2004 22:51 GMT
>. I
>still don't see how a sine wave is going to burn up a VC without exceeded
>the power limits.

Try putting a 15kHz signal into a speaker for an extended period of time. The
speaker doesn't move enough to cool. It will heat up and fry
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty
Les - 17 Jun 2004 00:28 GMT
> >. I
> >still don't see how a sine wave is going to burn up a VC without exceeded
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Richard H. Kuschel
> "I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

Your sig line says that the laws of physics does not change. If this 15kHz
tone is not exceeding the true rating of the VC then how can it fry, that's
physics. Not only that but I don't know any woofers that will go that high
and tweeters and compression drivers are designed to handle a certain amount
of power for a given time in thier freq range, which 15k would be in. If you
don't exceed their limits then how can it fry? Why does physics change with
a sine wave vs music vs live?  I'm sure if you left it there long enough it
would burn up, as power handling has a time limit associated with it, I am
also sure if would burn up if you exceeded the power limits. But given that
a driver can handle so much power in a freq range (sometimes denoted, other
times common sense; tweeters don't play 80Hz and woofers dont play 15khz)
then it shouldn't matter what the source is as power is power is power.

Les
Chad Wahls - 18 Jun 2004 14:01 GMT
> > >. I
> > >still don't see how a sine wave is going to burn up a VC without exceeded
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Les

The speaker is cooled by air movement as the air heats around the vc it is
not being "bathed" in cool air. Yes it will burn up even the best of them
even with advanced VC cooling. As a reconer I have seen this alot when the
amps oscillates for some reason.

It can also be seen or understood in gearhead terms.  You MUST fan cool an
air cooled engine when it's on a dyno.  Wonder why?  Gotta have that cold
air to wick heat away.

Chad
MZ - 20 Jun 2004 21:09 GMT
> The speaker is cooled by air movement as the air heats around the vc it is
> not being "bathed" in cool air.

This is the claim, but it's not entirely accurate for all cases.  In fact,
I'd question whether or not it's accurate even for MOST cases, especially
drivers that aren't designed with a vented polepiece or some other mechanism
to take advantage of this.  What motion DOES do though is it increases the
*effective* surface area with which the coil can dissipate heat.  In other
words, if the coil is 1 inch and the excursion is +/- 1/4", then you've
essentially increased the heat dissipation area by roughly 50%.  But if the
coil is longer, and the excursion isn't much different under your restrained
case vs. normal, then the power handling capacity shouldn't change by much.
Chad Wahls - 21 Jun 2004 14:58 GMT
> > The speaker is cooled by air movement as the air heats around the vc it is
> > not being "bathed" in cool air.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> drivers that aren't designed with a vented polepiece or some other mechanism
> to take advantage of this.

A vented pole peice cools the magnet assembly more than the voice coiil.
The movement of air around the voice coil happens more from spider leakage
and the dust cap causing low/high pressure variances. if the dust cap is
removed then the spider caused the pressure variances.  Tale a look at the
JBL VGC assembly, now there's some venting.  The old 1000, 1200, and 1500
GTI 's are the same basket as the JBL Professional 2206, 2226, 2241.  These
drivers have vents around the pole peice to keep the VC cool.

I have seen a Crown Macrotech 1200 go into HF ocsillation and destroy this
type of woofer in more than one occasion.  That amp puts out 325 W/ch into 8
ohms.  Ther driver is rated at 600W 1200Max.  The amp was not clipping.  I
have seen the same amp banged into clip or limit all night and no problems
arrised.  The coil just got damn hot because it was not moving.  What you
are saying is that you can hang a VC in the air, not move it and apply it's
rated power and it will not burn up.  This is false, it will burn up
quickly.  Even with music that has a large crest factor.  Do it, I have.

It's not actually the cool air that's cooling the VC its the fact that cool
air is wicking the heat away from the vc and transferring it to the basket
assembly, it's the laws of thermodynamics.

http://www.jblpro.com/pub/technote/tn_v1n22.pdf  --> VGC explanation

> What motion DOES do though is it increases the
> *effective* surface area with which the coil can dissipate heat.  In other
> words, if the coil is 1 inch and the excursion is +/- 1/4", then you've
> essentially increased the heat dissipation area by roughly 50%.  But if the
> coil is longer, and the excursion isn't much different under your restrained
> case vs. normal, then the power handling capacity shouldn't change by much.

Agreed.  But if it ain't moving air inside the assembly it ain't gonna work
long.  It is a well known fact in the audio circles that I work in.  You
gotta move air to make sound, and you gotta move air to keep things cool.

Look at the Community Air Corp, compression drivers. They pump air thru the
driver to keep it cool. why because it can't do it itself.  Many compression
drivers have 4" vc's with a pretty deep wind.  sometimes as deep as a mid or
woofer.  Can it handle as much power, no, wonder why?

Now I totally agree that this is all pretty much irrelavant because a
speaker that is designed to cool itself via excursion will not be used in an
application such as HF. BUT, HF can kill such devices even at lower than
their RMS power handling.  I'll try to dig out pics of such VC's I have them
somewhere on an older PC, probably packed with my stuff to move as murphy
would have it :)

Best regards

Chad
MZ - 21 Jun 2004 17:47 GMT
<snip>
> What you
> are saying is that you can hang a VC in the air, not move it and apply it's
> rated power and it will not burn up.  This is false, it will burn up
> quickly.  Even with music that has a large crest factor.  Do it, I have.

No, that's not what I'm saying.  I said that coil motion is indeed an
important aspect of cooling.  But, as I pointed out in my prior post, this
is mostly due to the fact that high speed motion is (almost) equivalent to
simply extending the length of the coil, thereby increasing its effective
surface area.  This serves to decrease the peak of the temp gradient.  This
also gives rise to a heat dissipation dependence on excursion.  This is much
more easily quantifiable than a sort of forced air convection mechanism,
which I'd argue is much less prevalent than you think.  And I'd suspect then
that the variation of power handling with coil motion in most drivers could
be almost entirely accounted for by the theoretical gain due to increased
surface area (although this is entirely hand waving on my part).  For
instance, look at tweeters.  Also, based on your argument, low efficiency
drivers should then have *dramatically* lower power handling capabilities,
but this of course is not true.

<snip>
> Now I totally agree that this is all pretty much irrelavant because a
> speaker that is designed to cool itself via excursion will not be used in an
> application such as HF. BUT, HF can kill such devices even at lower than
> their RMS power handling.  I'll try to dig out pics of such VC's I have them
> somewhere on an older PC, probably packed with my stuff to move as murphy
> would have it :)

One point I've tried to make in the past but have only alluded to in this
thread is that there really is no such thing as "RMS power handling."  This
is a variable, dependent on too many factors - for example, ambient
temperature, playing time, enclosure effects (because of its effect on
motion), and so forth.  Another influence should in theory be the waveform
itself.  But my own experiments have failed to bear this out.  Adding high
frequency content to subwoofers, for instance, while maintaining a state of
constant power dissipation (with a feedback routine custom written in
Matlab) failed to produce a significant coil temperature change in the
woofers I've tried.  Essentially, my hypothesis was that the different
waveform would alter the cooling ability of the VC, but found the opposite
to be true.  Anyway, the high frequency content I added was simply odd
harmonics of the fundamental (I was trying to simulate clipping by
approximating a square wave, but was generating the signal in the frequency
domain).  I suspect you're referring to very high frequency content - well
above the primary breakup mode of the driver, where I'm guessing the first
possibility of a substantial decrease in efficiency would occur.  But I'm
still not quite grasping your point here - if you get too high, the
impedance will just be too much for high freqs to be a contributing factor.
Nousaine - 21 Jun 2004 18:49 GMT
"MZ" zarellam@twcnyremove.rr.comspam
wrote:

....snip to content.....
> But I'm
>still not quite grasping your point here - if you get too high, the
>impedance will just be too much for high freqs to be a contributing factor.

Agreed. I recently measured the impedance of a single coil 12-inch woofer and
at 15 kHz its imedance was 66 ohms and rising.
Chad Wahls - 21 Jun 2004 19:12 GMT
> "MZ" zarellam@twcnyremove.rr.comspam
> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Agreed. I recently measured the impedance of a single coil 12-inch woofer and
> at 15 kHz its imedance was 66 ohms and rising.

Not the case with all drivers, some have a pretty nice impedance curve up
there, it depends on the VC material and wind geometry.

But totally agreed, many "low efficiency" long excursion drivers have a
monstrous inductance.

I guess I have to get my head out of pro audio and back into car audio :)

Chad
Chad Wahls - 21 Jun 2004 19:42 GMT
> <snip>
.  I said that coil motion is indeed an
> important aspect of cooling.  But, as I pointed out in my prior post, this
> is mostly due to the fact that high speed motion is (almost) equivalent to
> simply extending the length of the coil, thereby increasing its effective
> surface area.  This serves to decrease the peak of the temp gradient.  This
> also gives rise to a heat dissipation dependence on excursion.

I think we are kinda getting at the same point but in a diffeent manner, OK
by me!

> This is much
> more easily quantifiable than a sort of forced air convection mechanism,
> which I'd argue is much less prevalent than you think.

Yes external methods of forced air are not prevalent, concept died in late
90's with the advent of smaller motor structures that don't hold as much
heat and advanced VC binding.  But venting the GAP and forcing air around
the VC via excursion is very prevalent, almost standard in professional
loudspeakers.  BTW we are shrinking magnets as car audio seems to grow them,
which is something I have never understood.  Nothing like slowing your car
down with ferrite and chrome.  We choose neo to reduce chiropractor bills,
Neo has advanced to the point where it is not as temp dependent.

> And I'd suspect then
> that the variation of power handling with coil motion in most drivers could
> be almost entirely accounted for by the theoretical gain due to increased
> surface area (although this is entirely hand waving on my part).

I agree!  If air were more dense (like water) our LF transducers would be
able to shrink, now if fish made music :) not Phish :)  keep in mind that
the conducting medium has a response also, look what happens to the speed of
sound at different freq's as humidity rises.

> For
> instance, look at tweeters.  Also, based on your argument, low efficiency
> drivers should then have *dramatically* lower power handling capabilities,
> but this of course is not true.

One of the reasons that they arent as efficient is because they have HUGE
motors on them.  Copper weighs an awful lot and a big thick cone is heavy
also.  If a speaker has to handle the power it has to have weight, weight
causes moving mass and we all know what that leads to.  Also see above.

> One point I've tried to make in the past but have only alluded to in this
> thread is that there really is no such thing as "RMS power handling."  This
> is a variable, dependent on too many factors - for example, ambient
> temperature, playing time, enclosure effects (because of its effect on
> motion), and so forth.  Another influence should in theory be the waveform
> itself.  But my own experiments have failed to bear this out.

I couldn't agree more!  Add to that power compression :)  As for waveform I
have seen more mechanical damage than heating and electrical.

> Adding high
> frequency content to subwoofers, for instance, while maintaining a state of
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> above the primary breakup mode of the driver, where I'm guessing the first
> possibility of a substantial decrease in efficiency would occur.

Yep VHF.

But I'm
> still not quite grasping your point here - if you get too high, the
> impedance will just be too much for high freqs to be a contributing factor.

Still blows 'em up, and remember I'm kinda OT here because I'm using
different drivers.  I use 12's and 15's as mids in my paying job. And they
easily go up to 1.5K +

Single layer aluminum ribbon wound edgewise will have a different inductive
properties than multiple layers of round copper.

Chad
MZ - 21 Jun 2004 21:09 GMT
> > This is much
> > more easily quantifiable than a sort of forced air convection mechanism,
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the VC via excursion is very prevalent, almost standard in professional
> loudspeakers.

Perhaps I wasn't clear.  I didn't mean that it wasn't prevalent.  Many
speaker designs rely on this mechanism for standard operation.  What I meant
was that it is less prevalent for this to be the dominant cooling mechanism.
In other words, it's not always vital, and loudspeakers can get along
without it.  Disclaimer: of course a certain degree of air flow is necessary
in all designs, but it's passive (well, as passive as you can get in a
moving structure at least).  Conversely, there are some designs which seem
to revolve around such a mechanism.

>  BTW we are shrinking magnets as car audio seems to grow them,
> which is something I have never understood.  Nothing like slowing your car
> down with ferrite and chrome.  We choose neo to reduce chiropractor bills,
> Neo has advanced to the point where it is not as temp dependent.

It's quite simple.  99 out of 100 car audio buyers are under the impression
that bigger magnets = better speakers.  Give the customer what they want.
They're just getting out of hand these days.  Personally, I tend not to buy
that crap.

> > And I'd suspect then
> > that the variation of power handling with coil motion in most drivers
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> the conducting medium has a response also, look what happens to the speed of
> sound at different freq's as humidity rises.

Good example.

> > For
> > instance, look at tweeters.  Also, based on your argument, low efficiency
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> also.  If a speaker has to handle the power it has to have weight, weight
> causes moving mass and we all know what that leads to.  Also see above.

Right.  After rereading what I wrote, I see that I could have expanded it to
"low efficiency system" rather than "low efficiency drivers".  Basically,
what I was getting at is the ratio between excursion and electrical energy
dissipated in the form of heat.  If speakers truly relied on air flow as
heavily as you've implied, there would appear to be a major departure from
the theoretical effects of increased surface area associated with excursion
as a function of input power, and this would be apparent by looking at two
speakers with similar VCs and geometries, but different efficiencies
(perhaps due to suspension or enclosure differences).  In other words, take
the same speaker and put it in two very different sized boxes and you'll see
that in one case the cone moves a lot and in the other case it moves a
little, even with the same input power (of course, accounting for the
differences in back emf, etc).  My argument is that any differences in VC
power handling that arise as a result could more closely be accounted for by
a decrease in effective VC surface area, rather than what you would predict
if the dominant mechanism was air flow.  If the dominant mechanism was flow,
then the difference in power handling would probably be huge.

By the way, I have no data to back any of this up.  It's just hand waving on
my part.

> > One point I've tried to make in the past but have only alluded to in this
> > thread is that there really is no such thing as "RMS power handling."
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> I couldn't agree more!  Add to that power compression :)  As for waveform I
> have seen more mechanical damage than heating and electrical.

I'm sure that's true.  I don't know that power compression belongs on the
list though, because you're decreasing the power delivered to the coil due
to the increased DCR, even though the amplifier's output voltage remains
unchanged.  So it's not really a power handling difference.

> But I'm
> > still not quite grasping your point here - if you get too high, the
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Single layer aluminum ribbon wound edgewise will have a different inductive
> properties than multiple layers of round copper.

Got it.
MZ - 18 Jun 2004 00:14 GMT
> Try putting a 15kHz signal into a speaker for an extended period of time. The
> speaker doesn't move enough to cool. It will heat up and fry

What do you mean by "doesn't move enough to cool"?  Why wouldn't it be
moving enough?  What kind of speakers are you talking about specifically?
MZ - 16 Jun 2004 23:43 GMT
> Now that said I generally use amplifiers with almost twice the power rating as
> the speaker.

Well right there is the source of your confusion.  You're mistakenly
supposing that power RATINGS accurately predict the actual power handling
capabilities of the driver.

> No distortion and better sound.

In a guitar amp?  Blasphemy I say!
Alan Gilchrist - 18 Jun 2004 21:58 GMT
> Sine Waves can also have a very fast deleterious effect on speakers.
>
> Fortunately  music isn't DC or sine waves.

 And you think a audio signal isn't a form of sine wave ?!, Just be
glad it isn't square or triangle waves that your playing thru your amp
!.
Les - 18 Jun 2004 01:14 GMT
> > Sine Waves can also have a very fast deleterious effect on speakers.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> glad it isn't square or triangle waves that your playing thru your amp
> !.

Well Alan, music is a form of a sine wave, not a perfect one, which is what
the discussion was about. Next time try reading the thread before replying,
you might be able to add something to the discussion rather than missing the
point.

Les
MZ - 20 Jun 2004 21:11 GMT
>   And you think a audio signal isn't a form of sine wave ?!, Just be
> glad it isn't square or triangle waves that your playing thru your amp
> !.

Ever look at the signal produced by a violin playing something absent
vibrato?  It looks just like a triangle wave.  So do I have to write an
article now entitled "Violins don't blow speakers"?
cyrus - 20 Jun 2004 22:07 GMT
> >   And you think a audio signal isn't a form of sine wave ?!, Just be
> > glad it isn't square or triangle waves that your playing thru your amp
> > !.

I regularly play sine, square and triangle tones at varying frequencies
for testing. Try a sawtooth at 7hz through a capable setup :)  

If your drivers/amps/etc. don't live through it, you now have an excuse
to get better gear.

> Ever look at the signal produced by a violin playing something absent
> vibrato?  It looks just like a triangle wave.  So do I have to write an
> article now entitled "Violins don't blow speakers"?

Not to mention the square and triangle waves that alot of electronic
instruments make use of.

How 'bout "Moog synthesizers don't blow speakers"?

Signature

cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

MZ - 21 Jun 2004 00:32 GMT
> Not to mention the square and triangle waves that alot of electronic
> instruments make use of.
>
> How 'bout "Moog synthesizers don't blow speakers"?

I wouldn't be surprised if Audiophile published an article called "Gary
Numan is hazardous to your speakers."
Daniel Snooks - 16 Jun 2004 16:08 GMT
> Where are you getting your information?

Admittedly small amount of personal experience. However, by nature of it's
design, a driver that can handle copious amounts of power is not terribly
efficient.

> A speaker that can handle 1000 watts is only going to be aabout 5dB quieter at
> 300 watts  And that is going to be pretty loud even with the least effecient of
> speakers

True enough, but 5dB is less then half the volume (almost a third). It will
probably be very loud, but not even close to what it could be.

> Drive that amplifier into distortion and the speaker will over heat and
> eventually burn out even if the speaker is rated for 1000 watts.

It seems that you think I would believe otherwise?

> An enclosure does matter, it radically modifies the effeciency and frequency
> response of a speaker.

I was questioning the relevance of the statement that Peter Klein made. He
is talking about speakers drawing power from amps, and then asserts that it
is the enclosure that makes the difference. Or was I misinterpreting his
thoughts? I understand that the enclosure affects the "performance" of a
speaker (power handling drops of viciously below the tuning frequency in
ported) but this information isn't really keeping score with the original
train of thought in his post.
Richard Kuschel - 16 Jun 2004 23:31 GMT
>> Where are you getting your information?
>
>Admittedly small amount of personal experience. However, by nature of it's
>design, a driver that can handle copious amounts of power is not terribly
>efficient.

That depends, on the design and weight of the cone, magnet structure and a
number of other things.

If you have a speaker wound with really heavy  coil wire just to get power
handling, it won't be very effecient,
We saw a lot of this in the 18" speakers in Bass cabinets for theAcoustic 360
Bass amps.  The JBL 18" was more effecient and would play louder even though
the power handling wasn't quite as high.

>> I understand that the enclosure affects the "performance" of a
speaker (power handling drops of viciously below the tuning frequency in
ported) but this information isn't really keeping score with the original
train of thought in his post.<<

I realize this has drifted, but  hey, it's been fun.

>True enough, but 5dB is less then half the volume (almost a third). It will
>probably be very loud, but not even close to what it could be.

Twice as loud is 10 dBSPL which requires 10x the power to obtain.

6dB is 2x the voltage.
2x the power will give you a 3dB increase in SPL

You run into limits pretty quickly.

Assume a speaker(quite effecient)
100dBspl @1w/1Meter
2W=103dB
4W=106dB
8W=109dB
10W=110dB
16W=112dB
160W=122dB
1600W=132dB
16,000W=142dB
We run out of power pretty quickly because the speaker can't handle it.

Also as the speaker heats up, the amount of SPL that it ca nput out degrades
because the resistance becomes higher >Richard Kuschel wrote

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty
Ian W - 17 Jun 2004 20:56 GMT
>Admittedly small amount of personal experience. However, by nature of it's
>design, a driver that can handle copious amounts of power is not terribly
>efficient.

Hate to say this but you're incorrect on your assumption that drivers
that can handle copious amounts of power are inefficient by nature.

Perhaps you should have a look at the better professional sound
reinforcment drivers (JBL, Fane etc)  for low frequency operation,
Typical SPL ratings are around 100-103 dB SPL with 1Wrms drive at 1
meter in free air for professional grade drivers in the size range
from 10-18". That equates to roughly 10-14dB SPL louder, or  at least
twice the apparent volume level per Watt over most HiFi and car audio
drivers of equal diameter. HiFi / car audio drivers tend to be between
89 and 93 dB SPL at 1Wrms at 1m.

>I was questioning the relevance of the statement that Peter Klein made. He
>is talking about speakers drawing power from amps, and then asserts that it
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>ported) but this information isn't really keeping score with the original
>train of thought in his post.

Sounds like someone's confused here!  

Ian  
Daniel Snooks - 18 Jun 2004 17:32 GMT
> Hate to say this but you're incorrect on your assumption that drivers
> that can handle copious amounts of power are inefficient by nature.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> drivers of equal diameter. HiFi / car audio drivers tend to be between
> 89 and 93 dB SPL at 1Wrms at 1m.

That is wonderful information ... what are typical power handling ratings
for those pro drivers? I am just curious, it seems that if you could safely
put 700 - 1000W RMS into a driver that is rated at 100 dB/W @ 1m you would
end up with some really insane output (for a single driver) What kind of
excursion can you typically get from these pro drivers?
The JL 13W7 comes to mind regarding my assumption. 1000W RMS and 86.3 dB
SPL, and the Orion H2 15.2 with 2000W RMS and 90.4 dB.
Come to think of it, going by the numbers (which I know is never a good
idea) it would seem that the Orion would out-perform the JL. Being poor, I
haven't ,and probably never will, used either of  them, but I did get the
impression from people I talked to that the JL W7 drivers are considered top
of the heap, especially for SPL. Any thoughts on all of that?

> Sounds like someone's confused here!

Yes I am !!! I am wondering what his statement regarding enclosures has to
do with his belief that speakers "draw" power from amps.

Dan
Alan Gilchrist - 18 Jun 2004 22:07 GMT
> True enough, but 5dB is less then half the volume (almost a third). It will
> probably be very loud, but not even close to what it could be.

 That is incorrect, adjusting your volume just a slight increase (or
decrease) amounts to about 3db, so 5db is not far off.
Eric Desrochers - 19 Jun 2004 05:54 GMT
>   That is incorrect, adjusting your volume just a slight increase (or
> decrease) amounts to about 3db, so 5db is not far off.

Indeed.  On my previous Alpine HU, a CDM-7834, each volume "number"
amounted to 2 dB.  Going from 24 to 22 is not a deal breaker as far as
loudness is concerned...
Signature

Eric (Dero) Desrochers
http://homepage.mac.com/dero72

Hiroshima 45, Tchernobyl 86, Windows 95

Tim Louquet - 07 May 2004 04:11 GMT
Thanks everyone for your input.  Now, let me pose this scenario.  JL says
their 10W7 runs optimally at 500W RMS with an impedance of 3 ohms.  My amp
is rated for 300W RMS at 4 ohms and 600W RMS at 2 ohms.  The amp is said to
be stable down to 1 ohm.  Would this then put me in the right ballpark with
my amp and the JL 10W7?  I know a 12W7 is out of the question and, frankly,
12" of sub is probably too much for my setup anyway.  Thanks again.

> I'm looking for opinions on the best subwoofer available at any price.  My
> amp pushes 300W rms at 4 ohms.  I'd like either a 10" or a 12" single
> subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
MZ - 07 May 2004 05:21 GMT
> Thanks everyone for your input.  Now, let me pose this scenario.  JL says
> their 10W7 runs optimally at 500W RMS with an impedance of 3 ohms.

What did they base this foolishness on?  FYI - the JL tech support team is
notorious for not knowing what the hell they're talking about.  Do we have
to go back to that sorry excuse for a tech site at jlaudio.com and tear it
apart again?  :)

> My amp
> is rated for 300W RMS at 4 ohms and 600W RMS at 2 ohms.

Those are the ratings, sure, but they're obviously not accurate because what
you describe above is physically impossible for the kind of consumer grade
components every car audio amplifier manufacturer that I know of uses.  So I
think your best bet would be to tell us which amp you're referring to
specifically.

>  The amp is said to
> be stable down to 1 ohm.  Would this then put me in the right ballpark with
> my amp and the JL 10W7?  I know a 12W7 is out of the question and, frankly,
> 12" of sub is probably too much for my setup anyway.  Thanks again.

Why would you suspect that a 12" sub is out of the question for you?
Tim Louquet - 07 May 2004 16:45 GMT
> Those are the ratings, sure, but they're obviously not accurate because what
> you describe above is physically impossible for the kind of consumer grade
> components every car audio amplifier manufacturer that I know of uses.  So I
> think your best bet would be to tell us which amp you're referring to
> specifically.

I'm going to use a McIntosh MCC301M mono amp to power the sub.  I'm
currently running an MCC444 4-channel to power my three-way components and
have been thrilled with the performance.  I have no reason to believe that
McIntosh would over-state their power ratings...or would they?

A 12" sub would be great to be sure.  I figured a 10" would suit my needs a
little better due to the ever-present space considerations which, in my
case, are pretty tight.  The box and amp have to fit somewhere in the cab of
my Freightliner work-truck.  It's a day-cab, which means there is no sleeper
bunk, so basically what I have to work with is roughly the space a
two-seater pickup truck would have.
MZ - 07 May 2004 17:19 GMT
> > Those are the ratings, sure, but they're obviously not accurate because
> what
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> have been thrilled with the performance.  I have no reason to believe that
> McIntosh would over-state their power ratings...or would they?

It's hard to say.  I haven't dealt with enough McIntosh amps to say for
certain.  The last one I dealt with was about 5 years ago.  Anyway, if
they're correct about their 300 watt rating, then expect approximately 500
watts when halving the impedance.  Again, I don't know whether or not the
300 watt rating is accurate, underrated, or overrated.

> A 12" sub would be great to be sure.  I figured a 10" would suit my needs a
> little better due to the ever-present space considerations which, in my
> case, are pretty tight.  The box and amp have to fit somewhere in the cab of
> my Freightliner work-truck.  It's a day-cab, which means there is no sleeper
> bunk, so basically what I have to work with is roughly the space a
> two-seater pickup truck would have.

Ah yes, a 10 with a smallish magnet (by today's standards, at least) may be
best.  You're right.
Aaron Russell - 10 May 2004 22:15 GMT
alright well, no offense to the maggots on this group who all think they
know everything about everything, but id go with two 10 inch SVC premier
subs(around .5 or .6 cu ft per sub for enclosure)... great SQ, and a decent
thump..that will give yo a 2 ohm impedance wired in parallel, sicne they are
4 ohms each. that will soudn VERY respectable

> I'm going to use a McIntosh MCC301M mono amp to power the sub.  I'm
> currently running an MCC444 4-channel to power my three-way components and
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> bunk, so basically what I have to work with is roughly the space a
> two-seater pickup truck would have.
n8 skow - 11 May 2004 06:27 GMT
Nothing funnier than starting your reply with an insult.... and then
redefining what it is...

=)
n8

> alright well, no offense to the maggots on this group who all think they
> know everything about everything, but id go with two 10 inch SVC premier
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> > bunk, so basically what I have to work with is roughly the space a
> > two-seater pickup truck would have.
Aaron Russell - 17 May 2004 11:09 GMT
this is true.. i did do that, didn't I? hahah

> Nothing funnier than starting your reply with an insult.... and then
> redefining what it is...
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> > > bunk, so basically what I have to work with is roughly the space a
> > > two-seater pickup truck would have.
Robert Easton - 07 May 2004 14:10 GMT
I had a pair of JL Audio 12w7's running on a pair of rockford 1050s's, I was
impressed on the low side but musically i think it sounded a little muddy.
There are a lot of people out there that would have to agree with me. For
the money I would not purchase the W7. Right now I have 3 jlaudio 12w6v2's
and they hit alot better musically than the w7's but if you want them to hit
the lows better you have to make the box a little bigger than the
recommendation, not much though. The RMS or the sub is also right in your
ballpark.
> I'm looking for opinions on the best subwoofer available at any price.  My
> amp pushes 300W rms at 4 ohms.  I'd like either a 10" or a 12" single
> subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
Peter Klein - 20 May 2004 02:55 GMT
There is no such thing! Reason: many subwoofers are made by one of two
companies. All the subs with very wide surrounds pay license royalties to
the holder of the patent: Earthquake Sound in Ca. Since amplifiers do not
push their wattage, it is drawn by the driver as it needs wattage. Small
drivers like tweeters and midrange draw very little wattage, but subwoofers
draw more. The lower the frequency, the more wattage is needed. 300wrms is
enought to drive any good 12" subwoofer. The enclosure will determine how
good the bass sounds.A sealed box facing the car behind you will never
produce the most accurate, deep, tight, bass for all the money spent. If the
box (bandpass design) was ported partially external from the top of the box,
so it could pass throught the rear deck, it would deliver the bass into the
INTERIOR of the car ( a novel idea!). Any woofer of good quality will
produce low frequencies regardless of the type of music played. Visit
www.earthquakesound.com .P.

> I'm looking for opinions on the best subwoofer available at any price.  My
> amp pushes 300W rms at 4 ohms.  I'd like either a 10" or a 12" single
> subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
> music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
MZ - 20 May 2004 03:03 GMT
Peter Klein's list of errors:

1. Reason: many subwoofers are made by one of two
> companies.
2. All the subs with very wide surrounds pay license royalties to
> the holder of the patent: Earthquake Sound in Ca.
3. Since amplifiers do not
> push their wattage, it is drawn by the driver as it needs wattage.
4. A sealed box facing the car behind you will never
> produce the most accurate, deep, tight, bass for all the money spent.
5. If the
> box (bandpass design) was ported partially external from the top of the box,
> so it could pass throught the rear deck, it would deliver the bass into the
> INTERIOR of the car ( a novel idea!).
6. Any woofer of good quality will
> produce low frequencies regardless of the type of music played.
Scott Johnson - 20 May 2004 04:54 GMT
/SNIP/

Peter,
   It is evident that you know very little about car audio. Stop now with
your lies and errors.
Scott Gardner - 20 May 2004 09:42 GMT
>There is no such thing! Reason: many subwoofers are made by one of two
>companies.

Who are the two companies that are making so many of the subs on the
market, and which of the big names in car audio are using subs built
by these two manufacturers?

While there *are* subwoofers that are built by one company and sold
under another company's brand name, this isn't the case for any of the
brands that are likely to come up in a serious discussion of "best
subs".  Just to name three examples, I believe JL Audio, Image
Dynamics, and Adire all manufacture their own subs rather than simply
re-badging someone else's.  I suspect the same is true for Infinity,
MB Quart, Alpine, and most of the other big brands.  While the 15"
"Boom-A-Lot" brand subs you find at flea markets for $50 are probably
a mass-produced item with the "Boom-A-Lot" logo silkscreened onto
them, I don't think this practice is very common among high-end subs.
There's simply too much competition between the high-end players, and
too much money spent on research and development, for the high-end
manufacturers to sell their subs out the back door for any yahoo to
slap his logo onto it and re-sell it.

Also, I find it hard to believe any serious manufacturer in the
subwoofer market is paying royalties to Earthquake for a
very-wide-surround design, for two reasons:

1)  Compared to the history of loudspeakers, Earthquake hasn't been
around all that long, so I doubt they hold any patent on something as
simple as using a wide surround, considering the sheer amount of prior
work done in the field before they came around.  Perhaps you could
post the patent number so we can look it up and see exactly what
Earthquake holds the patent for?

2) Having a very wide surround in a subwoofer is a poor design
decision anyway, since it reduces the available amount of cone surface
area for a given basket diameter.  This is why JL (among other
companies) has gone to using a taller, narrower surround.  If you look
at the cross-section of the surround used on their W7 subs, it's so
tall and narrow that it's almost a semi-circle or an arch.  Since the
surround is narrower, the cone area can be larger, giving the 13W7 the
same piston displacement area as a conventional 15-inch sub that uses
a wider surround.

Scott Gardner

>All the subs with very wide surrounds pay license royalties to
>the holder of the patent: Earthquake Sound in Ca. Since amplifiers do not
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>> subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.  I'll be listening to a wide variety of
>> music but mostly rock and hip-hop.  Thanks for your suggestions.
Tha Ghee - 29 May 2004 02:39 GMT
> >There is no such thing! Reason: many subwoofers are made by one of two
> >companies.
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> Scott Gardner

Scott, JL gets all of it's cones and baskets from Pioneer past the w7
Steve Grauman - 29 May 2004 23:45 GMT
>Scott, JL gets all of it's cones and baskets from Pioneer past the w7

First of all, there is nothing "past" the W7. The W7 is their best sub. 2nd,
this is simply untrue, and I challenge you here as I did on the Audi board:
Porve this claim by providing a URL.
Scott Gardner - 20 May 2004 10:12 GMT
It's true that amplifiers don't "push" their power, they only provide
their power based on what the speakers draw.  That being said, the
draw from the speaker is ONLY dependent on the speaker impedance, NOT
the physical size of the speaker itself.  If a speaker has an
impedance of 4 ohms at a particular frequency, and an amp provides
300W into that impedance, it doesn't matter whether the speaker is a
subwoofer or a tweeter - as long as the impedence is the same, the
power delivered by the amp will be the same.

 The main reasons why people don't provide as much power to their
mids and tweeters as they do to their subs are:

1)  Subwoofers are generally less efficient, because the moving parts
(coil, cone, and surround) are more massive, and require more force to
accelerate/decelerate.

2) (And this is the big reason)  Our ears are *much* less sensitive to
low frequencies than they are to higher frequencies.  140 dB at 50 hz
will tickle your belly and give you the "thump in the chest" that many
people love, but 140 dB at 8 khz will leave you writhing in pain on
the floor.   This is why even the best systems don't have a
perfectly-flat frequency response.  The response intentionally slopes
upward as the frequency gets lower, to compensate for our reduced
sensitivity to low-frequency sounds.

Scott Gardner

>Since amplifiers do not
>push their wattage, it is drawn by the driver as it needs wattage. Small
>drivers like tweeters and midrange draw very little wattage, but subwoofers
>draw more.
Scott Gardner - 20 May 2004 10:44 GMT
While ported boxes will generally play louder -at certain frequencies-
than a sealed box, there are several significant drawbacks to using
ported boxes:

The frequency response of a ported box is a lot more uneven compared
to the frequency response of the same sub in a sealed box.  If you
look at the frequency response curve of a sealed box as the frequency
decreases, you'll see that the response rolls off gradually, at about
6 dB per octave.  This means that even in the very low frequencies,
the sealed box will still be producing significant volume levels.

Now, look at the curve for a ported box as the frequency decreases.
As you approach the tuning frequency of the box, the response curve
will actually increase, giving you a nice 3-5 dB "hump" in a narrow
range of frequencies.  As you go below that frequency, however, the
frequency response falls off like a rock, usually at 12 dB per octave
or more.  This means that while a certain speaker may play 3-5 dB
louder near its tuning frequency compared to the same speaker in a
sealed box, the ported enclosure will be significantly quieter at
lower frequencies.  Some people like ported boxes because of the
"hump" near the tuning frequency, but I prefer to use sealed boxes
because the response is more even.  If I want more SPL, I just buy a
bigger amplifier - watts are cheap these days.

Also, sealed boxes are much more forgiving of errors in box volume.
You can go plus or minus 10% on the enclosure size before you really
start to notice a difference.  Since a ported box is essentially a big
"whistle", tuned to resonate at a certain frequency, the volume
measurements are a lot more critical to the speaker's performance.

Since the air volume in a sealed box (also called 'acoustic
suspension', for the following reason)  is sealed, it acts as a
"cushion" to help keep the sub from overextending, so sealed
enclosures tend to be more forgiving if you occasionally overpower the
speaker.  In a ported enclosure playing at or near its tuning
frequency, there's almost no cushioning effect, so it will be a lot
easier to "bottom out" or possibly damage your subwoofer if you
overpower it.  This is why you often hear a mechanical "clacking"
noise from a ported box when it's driven very hard near its resonant
frequency - that's the sound of the mechanicals of the subwoofer
hitting the end of their excursion travel.

In a ported box, you also have the potential for audible port noise,
or "huffing", especially if the port is connected directly into the
passenger compartment.  Since a sealed box has no ports, there's
obviously no potential for port noise.

As for "accuracy" and "tightness", those are subjective terms, but
given the smoother, flatter response curve for a sealed box, I'd argue
that a sealed box is actually more accurate, and there's a lot of
evidence that sealed boxes sound "tighter" as well.  With a
well-designed ported box, the differences can be minimized, but you're
still more at risk of ending up with thudding, "one-note" bass using a
marginally-designed ported box than with a sealed box.

I won't go into front-facing versus rear-facing subs, since that's
been beaten to death in this group.

Scott Gardner

>A sealed box facing the car behind you will never
>produce the most accurate, deep, tight, bass for all the money spent. If the
>box (bandpass design) was ported partially external from the top of the box,
>so it could pass throught the rear deck, it would deliver the bass into the
>INTERIOR of the car ( a novel idea!).
Scott Gardner - 20 May 2004 11:13 GMT
Quick correction to my post - the typical rolloffs for sealed and
ported boxes are 12 dB/octave and 24 dB/octave respectively, not
6dB/octave  and 12 dB/octave as I posted earlier.

While you can use a bandpass design rather than a simple ported design
to get a 12 dB/octave rolloff from a vented box, keep in mind that the
12 dB/octave rolloff in a bandpass box occurs both below AND above the
tuning frequency, which means that it will play great near its tuning
frequency, but now the response curve falls away on BOTH sides of the
tuning frequency, not just on the low side.  This is still less
accurate than a sealed box, and unless you've been extremely accurate
with both your volume/port calculations and your box construction,
you're back to that whole "one-note bass" problem.

Scott Gardner

>The frequency response of a ported box is a lot more uneven compared
>to the frequency response of the same sub in a sealed box.  If you
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>frequency response falls off like a rock, usually at 12 dB per octave
>or more.  
MZ - 20 May 2004 16:11 GMT
Hey Scott.  You've just written an entire section to be added to the FAQ.
:)

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Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

> Quick correction to my post - the typical rolloffs for sealed and
> ported boxes are 12 dB/octave and 24 dB/octave respectively, not
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> >frequency response falls off like a rock, usually at 12 dB per octave
> >or more.
Scott Gardner - 20 May 2004 21:46 GMT
Thanks - I felt bad posting three replies in a row (plus a correction
to one of my own mistakes), but there was just too much to address in
a single posting.

I think one of the goals of this forum should be education - God knows
I've learned a bunch here.  I used to be a damping
factor/signal-to-noise-ratio zealot, until I learned enough of the
math and physics behind those factors to realize how low they can
actually be before you can hear a difference.  With modern equipment,
the damping factors and S/N ratios are really just varying degrees of
overkill.  Sure, a SNR of 102 dB is nice, but it's no reason to turn
up your nose at another piece that "only" has a SNR of 90 dB.

If you were serious about adding any part of my posts to the FAQ -
feel free, and there's no need to credit me (I don't know if entries
to the FAQ are even credited anyway.)  Also, go ahead and edit it as
you see fit - I know I can be long-winded.

Scott Gardner

>Hey Scott.  You've just written an entire section to be added to the FAQ.
>:)
MZ - 20 May 2004 23:53 GMT
Some of it may already be in the FAQ.  I don't know.  Anyway, I'm not the
one who decides what goes into the FAQ.  You can contact Ian though if you
have a suggestion.  See what's in there, and adapt what you wrote to fit.

www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq

Signature

Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

> Thanks - I felt bad posting three replies in a row (plus a correction
> to one of my own mistakes), but there was just too much to address in
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> >Hey Scott.  You've just written an entire section to be added to the FAQ.
> >:)
Tha Ghee - 29 May 2004 02:40 GMT
> Thanks - I felt bad posting three replies in a row (plus a correction
> to one of my own mistakes), but there was just too much to address in
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Scott Gardner

I thought I was the only one on the DF/S2N tip
Nousaine - 20 May 2004 23:52 GMT
Thanks for the good post. I have a couple small additions. Also note that the
6/12 dB roll-offs of sealed/ported enclosure has been corrected to 12/24 dB in
a later post.

>While ported boxes will generally play louder -at certain frequencies-
>than a sealed box, there are several significant drawbacks to using
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>6 dB per octave.  This means that even in the very low frequencies,
>the sealed box will still be producing significant volume levels.

Actually the output of a ported box does not been to be less even. It is true
that most people and most manufacturer recommendations do use them that way but
its a choice. The other downside to ported enclosures is for a given level of
even bass performance a ported enclosure usually will be larger. Size is
another reason that people often opt for the ported humped bass response.

>Also, sealed boxes are much more forgiving of errors in box volume.
>You can go plus or minus 10% on the enclosure size before you really
>start to notice a difference.  Since a ported box is essentially a big
>"whistle", tuned to resonate at a certain frequency, the volume
>measurements are a lot more critical to the speaker's performance.

I like the whistle analogy. It works except that the woofer "blows" the whistle
when it's in rarefaction. But it is true that ported enclosures are harder to
design and tune. There's more to it than just enclosure volume as well;

>Since the air volume in a sealed box (also called 'acoustic
>suspension', for the following reason)  is sealed, it acts as a
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>easier to "bottom out" or possibly damage your subwoofer if you
>overpower it.

Actually one advantage of ported enclosures is the reduced excursion at the
system tuning frequency. The danger lies below the tuned frequency of the
system and with the availability of program material with plenty of content at
very low frequencies a ported enclosure should be electronically high-passed in
most cases.

 This is why you often hear a mechanical "clacking"
>noise from a ported box when it's driven very hard near its resonant
>frequency - that's the sound of the mechanicals of the subwoofer
>hitting the end of their excursion travel.

Or tinsel leads hitting the cone, etc. This tends to happen below system
resonance because driver excursion is minimized at system resonance but it
still a problem nonetheless. But I'd also like to point out that ported
enclosures often allow access to noises occuring inside the box that a sealed
enclosure will mask. So, in some small way it might be seen as an advantage.

>In a ported box, you also have the potential for audible port noise,
>or "huffing", especially if the port is connected directly into the
>passenger compartment.  Since a sealed box has no ports, there's
>obviously no potential for port noise.

Wouldn't it be mice to have a microphone in there so you could get a report on
suspension/motor/mechanical noise :-)

>As for "accuracy" and "tightness", those are subjective terms, but
>given the smoother, flatter response curve for a sealed box, I'd argue
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>still more at risk of ending up with thudding, "one-note" bass using a
>marginally-designed ported box than with a sealed box.

Cabin reinforcement is the one real freebie in car audio. With a sealed
enclosure you get a great match for normal system function. Your system is
rolling off at 12 dB per octave and below the lowest axial mode in your car
your cabin is offsetting it perfectly with a 12 dB per octave reinforcement (as
frequency falls.)

With a ported enclosure you are essentially forfeiting cabin gain below system
resonance because
the system will rolloff at 24 dB per octave.
 
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