thanks, the amp isn't cutting out though (front channels always work fine,
no lights come on showing overheating, or bad power conditions) and putting
a meter across the sub channel terminals shows its trying to output.
can an alternator test meter show bad diodes when there aren't bad diodes?
i dont know anything about this type of test equipment.
> It's either a really bad alternator or the diagnosis is wrong.
> Alternators overload all the time; it's normal. A low car battery can
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> 12V. Many HU's have a resettable thermal fuse on the remote switch
> output. Draw too much power and it cuts out after some time.
Bill Darden - 06 Jun 2004 11:12 GMT
Please see Section 5 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on
www.batteryfaq.org. Upgrading audio systems normally require an
alternator upgrade as well.
Kindest regards,
BiLL.....
> thanks, the amp isn't cutting out though (front channels always work fine,
> no lights come on showing overheating, or bad power conditions) and putting
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> > 12V. Many HU's have a resettable thermal fuse on the remote switch
> > output. Draw too much power and it cuts out after some time.
Rob - 06 Jun 2004 15:54 GMT
thanks for the pointer bill, however in this case we're talking a 90amp
alternator and a small 2x50/1x200 watt amp. ive run monster 2000+ watt
systems off a 90amp alternator before with a few caps (in a different
vehicle). if i get motivated, i'm going to try to install the amp in the
wifes car today and see what happens.
> Please see Section 5 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on
> www.batteryfaq.org. Upgrading audio systems normally require an
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > > 12V. Many HU's have a resettable thermal fuse on the remote switch
> > > output. Draw too much power and it cuts out after some time.