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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / June 2004

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alternators being destroyed

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Rob - 02 Jun 2004 22:56 GMT
what could destroy the diodes in an alternator?  my sub channel in my amp
kept cutting out (amp didnt go into overheat or overpower), so i replaced
the amp per my installers recommendation.  same behavior.  he threw it on a
tester, it said bad alternator diodes.  i replaced the alternator, my brand
new alternator comes up with the same thing.  i replaced the battery as well
with a yellow top.

so the alternator place will send me a replacement alternator but says they
won't warranty this one and something in the car must be destroying the
alternator.  ive never heard of anything like this, so im worried about
putting a new one on.  any thoughts on what i can check before i put on yet
another alternator?
Gary Rodgers - 03 Jun 2004 00:32 GMT
| what could destroy the diodes in an alternator?  my sub channel in my amp
| kept cutting out (amp didnt go into overheat or overpower), so i replaced
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
| putting a new one on.  any thoughts on what i can check before i put on yet
| another alternator?

Ummm... higher demand on the alternator than it is capable of producing -
causing both the rectifier (diodes) circuits and the windings to overheat.
Rob - 03 Jun 2004 01:34 GMT
fair enough, but there shouldnt be anything in the car drawing that much.
this is the first amp ive put in the car, nothing else in the car is non
OEM.  the amp is just an xtant a4004, nothing mega, and it's never worked
properly so i have to assume the damage to the alternator was done before
that.  so.... is there something could go wrong in an OEM setup to kill
alternators?  stock alternator is 90amp.  the new one was dead within a
couple days of installing it (ie, i didnt test the amp until it had been in
the car for two days and the amp didnt work at that point).  im stumped.

> | what could destroy the diodes in an alternator?  my sub channel in my amp
> | kept cutting out (amp didnt go into overheat or overpower), so i replaced
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> Ummm... higher demand on the alternator than it is capable of producing -
> causing both the rectifier (diodes) circuits and the windings to overheat.
Kevin McMurtrie - 03 Jun 2004 06:20 GMT
> what could destroy the diodes in an alternator?  my sub channel in my amp
> kept cutting out (amp didnt go into overheat or overpower), so i replaced
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> putting a new one on.  any thoughts on what i can check before i put on yet
> another alternator?

It's either a really bad alternator or the diagnosis is wrong.  
Alternators overload all the time; it's normal.  A low car battery can
keep a 90A alternator at maximum output for over half an hour.

Here's a test you missed - Check that the remote switch line remains at
12V.  Many HU's have a resettable thermal fuse on the remote switch
output.  Draw too much power and it cuts out after some time.
Rob - 03 Jun 2004 15:17 GMT
thanks, the amp isn't cutting out though (front channels always work fine,
no lights come on showing overheating, or bad power conditions) and putting
a meter across the sub channel terminals shows its trying to output.

can an alternator test meter show bad diodes when there aren't bad diodes?
i dont know anything about this type of test equipment.

> It's either a really bad alternator or the diagnosis is wrong.
> Alternators overload all the time; it's normal.  A low car battery can
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> 12V.  Many HU's have a resettable thermal fuse on the remote switch
> output.  Draw too much power and it cuts out after some time.
Bill Darden - 06 Jun 2004 11:12 GMT
Please see Section 5 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on
www.batteryfaq.org.  Upgrading audio systems normally require an
alternator upgrade as well.

Kindest regards,

BiLL.....

> thanks, the amp isn't cutting out though (front channels always work fine,
> no lights come on showing overheating, or bad power conditions) and putting
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> > 12V.  Many HU's have a resettable thermal fuse on the remote switch
> > output.  Draw too much power and it cuts out after some time.
Rob - 06 Jun 2004 15:54 GMT
thanks for the pointer bill, however in this case we're talking a 90amp
alternator and a small 2x50/1x200 watt amp.  ive run monster 2000+ watt
systems off a 90amp alternator before with a few caps (in a different
vehicle).  if i get motivated, i'm going to try to install the amp in the
wifes car today and see what happens.

> Please see Section 5 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on
> www.batteryfaq.org.  Upgrading audio systems normally require an
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > > 12V.  Many HU's have a resettable thermal fuse on the remote switch
> > > output.  Draw too much power and it cuts out after some time.
 
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