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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / June 2004How To wire my amps/ What amps to get
Have two sony explode 12's, and VR CSi Jl Audio 6.5"ers in the front, an Alpine CDA-7837(I think), and a Legacy 1080a Amp. The amp is a four channel amp, was sapposed be 2000 watts, it wasn't. But the amp sounded good 4 channels bridged to two with the two subs on it, now I added the 6.5"s and the subs are too weak. Now should I buy a 75x2 amp or somthing like that? Or what. BTW The remote on my deck worked then all of a sudden I turned the key back to ACC and the fronts and the sub didn't work, hmm wtf. Well the remote puts out ZERO power. But thats beside the point, Although I do need to find another switched power source to use for my amp. Buck > Have two sony explode 12's, and VR CSi Jl Audio 6.5"ers in the front, an > Alpine CDA-7837(I think), and a Legacy 1080a Amp. The amp is a four [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Buck Sounds like a second amp for the front speakers is the way to go, if unbridging the 4-channel amp and only using half of it to drive the subs isn't giving you enough power. As for the remote power lead, is the problem only with the key in the ACC position? Do your amps turn on with the key in the RUN position? Does the head unit work with the key in the ACC position? If everything works fine with the ignition key in the RUN position, just not in the ACC position, you may just need to find a different switched power source for the head unit. Scott Gardner Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go with. No the remote doesn't work at all and it pissed me off. It was fine then I took the key out put the door panels back on and finished hooking up everything then suddenly it didn't work! WTF! Thanks Scott your a HUGE help. Buck > > Have two sony explode 12's, and VR CSi Jl Audio 6.5"ers in the front, an > > Alpine CDA-7837(I think), and a Legacy 1080a Amp. The amp is a four [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Scott Gardner > Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go with. No > the remote doesn't work at all and it pissed me off. It was fine then I [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Buck Well, it doesn't sound like I've been much help at all so far. Have you tried disconnecting the remote lead at the back of the head unit and testing the voltage on the lead right as it comes out of the head unit's wiring harness? (basically, you need to disconnect the entire wire run from the head unit back to the amp before you take the voltage measurement.) If you have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring run from the head unit back to the amp, that could cause your amps not to turn on, and you would show zero voltage on the remote lead wire. Is there any kind of a fuse on your remote wire? Other dumb things to try... I don't know about your Alpine, but some head units have a separate power antenna lead that's only hot when you're listening to the radio, and in the past I've mistakenly tried to use that for an amp turn-on lead. When your stereo was working before, did it work with all input sources (radio, CD, etcetera)? If all else fails, you can turn on your amps using the same switched +12V wire that powers your head unit. This means that your amps will be on whenever the car's on, regardless of whether you have the head unit turned on or not. I don't know if having the amps powered with no input signal would produce noise at the outputs, but it's a free solution if it works for you. Scott Gardner Well you helped me a while back in another post and I never got around to thanking you. To tell you the truth, when it was working I was listening to the radio. BUT I tested both the solid blue, and the Blue striped at the HU, but neither of them had ANY power :+(. sh.t, if it doesnt work I'll have to find somthing else to tap into. Buck > > Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go with. No > > the remote doesn't work at all and it pissed me off. It was fine then I [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Scott Gardner > Well you helped me a while back in another post and I never got around to > thanking you. To tell you the truth, when it was working I was listening [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >> > >> > Buck Yep, sounds like the remote turn-on leads may be toasted. When you checked the voltages on the blue and blue-striped wires, did you first disconnect those wires from anything downstream (like your amps)? I'm kind of hoping that your head unit is still producing voltage at the turn-on leads, but that a short somewhere downstream is pulling the voltage down to zero. If this were the case, I'd expect that a fuse would have popped somewhere or the turn-on wire would have burnt up, but it's the last thing I can think of to check before writing off the turn-on leads entirely. Scott Gardner Yep, They were unhooked. Which sucks, because they worked not ten minutes before! Well I guess Ill have to find a new one to use. Thats shitty but thanks Scott, I'd hate to get a new HU because I just got this one from a friend and I hard wired everything because I wanted to get it in but didn't have time to get harnesses. Buck > > Well you helped me a while back in another post and I never got around to > > thanking you. To tell you the truth, when it was working I was listening [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Scott Gardner |
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