Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / December 2004
Bi-amp setup : a/d/s 346cs speaker ?
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bordin - 10 Dec 2004 15:08 GMT Hi,
Just wonder what the last paragraph means ?
From the manual:
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Bi-amping uses a separate amplifier channel for the high-frequency and low-frequency sections, instead of the single amplifier channel used in conventional and bi-wired connections. Bi-amping provides the additional advantage of allowing use of the amplifier's level controls to provide an additional level of finetuning not possible with the tweeter-level switch alone. In addition, at high power levels, a bi-amplified connection can help protect the tweeter from amplifier clipping, which is more likely to occur on channels driving the midrange.
When bi-amping using the passive crossovers, the midrange low-pass filter and tweeter high-pass filter on the amplifier or external active crossover should be bypassed.
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I plan to get a 4-channel amplifier to do bi-amp my a/d/s speakers. I understand that if I seperate hi and mid-low frenquecy inside the amplifier, then amplifier efficiency and sound quality should be improved. For example, I would set HPF around 2,500 Hz and LPF below that point.
But, the manual suggests to *bypass* the crossover in the amp. This sounds strange to me. What should I do ?
Thanks, --bordin
Tony F - 10 Dec 2004 20:32 GMT They're suggesting to bypass the amp oxvers only if your biamping AND using the passive a/d/s xovers. I assume you'll not be using the a/d/s xovers? If not, then yes, you'll be using the amp's internal xovers. Make sure you use a proper capacitor inline with the tweeters to protect them. I don't know the value you should use, but I'm sure a/d/s will.
Tony
 Signature Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers, Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure
> Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > Thanks, > --bordin MZ - 10 Dec 2004 21:47 GMT > I plan to get a 4-channel amplifier to do bi-amp my a/d/s speakers. I > understand that if I seperate hi and mid-low frenquecy inside the > amplifier, then amplifier efficiency and sound quality should be > improved. For example, I would set HPF around 2,500 Hz and LPF below > that point. Not necessarily. Sound quality is often degraded when biamping. It's sometimes difficult to set the xover freqs and slopes so that it sounds as good as the xover parameters designed for those particular speakers. Sometimes you can improve it; sometimes there's little to no improvement, or an actual degradation. It's worth a try, of course, especially if you don't really like the tonal quality of the speaker set as they stand now. But don't do it because of a "theoretical" increase in performance.
> But, the manual suggests to *bypass* the crossover in the amp. This > sounds strange to me. What should I do ? The manual is offering poor advice in this case. The only thing you gain by biamping but using passive xovers is the ability to level control with the gains. The amount of power gained is marginal, and would actually be less than the 4 channels bridged anyway.
Feel free to use the amplifier's xovers. But you may want to install a capacitor in series with the tweeter for protection purposes. The cap you choose should be an octave or more lower than the lowest cutoff freq you'll use in the amplifier; but not too large, because then ESL can become significant and high frequencies may actually start to be attenuated (you could even use two or more "smaller" caps in parallel).
Eddie Runner - 10 Dec 2004 23:07 GMT Mark, Im not so sure you know what your talking about...
If the ADS speakers recomend a bi-amp hookup they probably are set up to still use the ADS passsive xovers.... So yes, in this case, you WILL NOT use the electronic xovers in the amplifiers (if any), you will simply use another input to the passive xovers and in this case you wont need to add a cap like you recomended either.
ADS passive xovers are very very good, some of my personal favorites. To not use them and try to determine SAFE and good sounding xover freqs on passive xovers may not be the best thing to do and Im sure ADS doesnt want you to do it (might blow the speakers up)...
The passive xovers (as Im sure MArk knows) are not only to divide the sounds, but also to protect the speakers....
Eddie Runner http://www.installer.com/tech/iml.html
> > I plan to get a 4-channel amplifier to do bi-amp my a/d/s speakers. I > > understand that if I seperate hi and mid-low frenquecy inside the [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > significant and high frequencies may actually start to be attenuated (you > could even use two or more "smaller" caps in parallel). MZ - 10 Dec 2004 23:17 GMT > Mark, Im not so sure you know what your talking about... Of course I don't. I make it up as I go along.
> If the ADS speakers recomend a bi-amp hookup they probably > are set up to still use the ADS passsive xovers.... So yes, in this > case, you WILL NOT use the electronic xovers in the amplifiers > (if any), you will simply use another input to the passive xovers > and in this case you wont need to add a cap like you recomended > either. Right. But this doesn't mean that he can't biamp his a/d/s/ speakers with active xovers. Sometimes it's beneficial, as long as you know what you're doing. In fact, I'm currently triamping my a/d/s/ 3-way component set, using the active xovers in my a/d/s/ and Orion amps to do it. For this set, I like the ability to level control moreso than the ability to change the crossover point. I agree with your assessment of a/d/s/ xovers. They sound fine at the freqs/slopes selected. This, of course, could change depending on the car, mounting location, etc.
There are some speakers though that don't sound good until you replace the xovers. The set of Morels that I currently have in the back (used to be in the front in my last car) are an example, and they were downright unlistenable with the factory xovers, IMO. I also had some Rockford components back in the day that I had to build entirely different passives for, just because the factory xovers did them no justice. And then sometimes xovers that don't include the little tweeter attenuation switch in them sometimes need to be replaced altogether if the relative levels aren't what you like.
Tony F - 11 Dec 2004 03:34 GMT MZ wrote: "There are some speakers though that don't sound good until you replace the xovers."
The passive xovers that came with my Dyns were a perfect example of this. They sounded really great at low volume levels. But when you cranked the volume up the detail completely went away & it just didn't sound very good. It sounds MUCH better ran actively, IMO.
Tony
 Signature Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers, Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure
>> Mark, Im not so sure you know what your talking about... > [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > aren't > what you like. Chad Wahls - 13 Dec 2004 15:02 GMT >> Mark, Im not so sure you know what your talking about... > [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > aren't > what you like. I have a mulit amped rig in my truck, each driver has it's own channel. I found my a/d/s crossovers to be power hogs and they actually caused great distortion during dynamic piano listening. Although they appeared to be of high quality I found the sound to improve greatly after careful processing and proper amplification. Maybe the crossovers were bad? could be! But I have found the imaging and dynamic response greatly improves with nothing passive in the way.
Chad
John Durbin - 16 Dec 2004 05:49 GMT Chad, which model crossovers? I'm curous if you ran into that problem on the current cs series product or one of the older series?
I am running the 346cs fully active myself and am just amazed at the overall performance of the drivers...
Thanks,
JD
> > [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] > > Chad Wahls - 16 Dec 2004 15:30 GMT John,
They are old Skool AL6 (my fave tweets from a/d/s). I have them mainly because I use a/d/s in my studio for hi-fi reference. I have found that the al6 translates well with the L570's. I am using an MTX pro4005 each AB channel goes to a mid or tweet and the D channel to a single 10JL. The 6 plays from 75-2200 and the tweet from 2500 on out. The underlap is due to the peak in the 6" poly cone, I have not found the smaller drivers to have this peak. I would rather underlap crossovers than use an EQ. I homebrewed the crossover using burr brown OPA series op amps, but soon would like to go to digital processing for driver control. The tweets are in the kick panels and the 6's in the doors, digital will allow me to delay the 6's a tad and then delay the whole left side to get my pathlength correct.
After going active I found the dynamics (mostly transient response) to improve greatly, you can hear the hammer hit the piano string, I also noticed more overtones being conveyed. They still have the appelaing a/d/s signature but also will flat out get at it. It seemed the stock crossovers were really holding them back under power. I never built new passiaves for them, just went straight for the biamp. It's a simple system that I built for SQ, 5 drivers, 5 channels of amp. For it's simplicity I am extremely happy with it. The bass heads don't dig it much, but being a live engineer and mastering engineer I needed something that translated well to the real world, this rig gets it done and I trust it. I'm getting ready to retire this vehicle for grunt work around the property, I'm looking at a Dodge Magnum, sooooo I hope to build another system that makes me as happy as this one :) Hopefully by that time I will have my 850MX done (got a blown channel, been lazy on the bench) I have the active modules for the al6's, I just need to find another used set, that's the challenge.
What changes did you notice going biamp? Are you farmiliar with the AL6? How much different do the new a/d/s sound? I have found the new breed of car audio tweets to be too screechy. My last install had Morel MDT30's and their MW220's. I may go back to that route if I can't find a car driver that satisfy's me.
Chad Chad, which model crossovers? I'm curous if you ran into that problem on the current cs series product or one of the older series?
I am running the 346cs fully active myself and am just amazed at the overall performance of the drivers...
Thanks,
JD
Chad Wahls wrote:
Mark, Im not so sure you know what your talking about...
Of course I don't. I make it up as I go along.
If the ADS speakers recomend a bi-amp hookup they probably are set up to still use the ADS passsive xovers.... So yes, in this case, you WILL NOT use the electronic xovers in the amplifiers (if any), you will simply use another input to the passive xovers and in this case you wont need to add a cap like you recomended either.
Right. But this doesn't mean that he can't biamp his a/d/s/ speakers with active xovers. Sometimes it's beneficial, as long as you know what you're doing. In fact, I'm currently triamping my a/d/s/ 3-way component set, using the active xovers in my a/d/s/ and Orion amps to do it. For this set, I like the ability to level control moreso than the ability to change the crossover point. I agree with your assessment of a/d/s/ xovers. They sound fine at the freqs/slopes selected. This, of course, could change depending on the car, mounting location, etc.
There are some speakers though that don't sound good until you replace the xovers. The set of Morels that I currently have in the back (used to be in the front in my last car) are an example, and they were downright unlistenable with the factory xovers, IMO. I also had some Rockford components back in the day that I had to build entirely different passives for, just because the factory xovers did them no justice. And then sometimes xovers that don't include the little tweeter attenuation switch in them sometimes need to be replaced altogether if the relative levels aren't what you like.
I have a mulit amped rig in my truck, each driver has it's own channel. I found my a/d/s crossovers to be power hogs and they actually caused great distortion during dynamic piano listening. Although they appeared to be of high quality I found the sound to improve greatly after careful processing and proper amplification. Maybe the crossovers were bad? could be! But I have found the imaging and dynamic response greatly improves with nothing passive in the way.
Chad
John Durbin - 19 Dec 2004 21:59 GMT I missed the AL-series stuff during my retail installing days although I do have a couple pair of AL4's laying around. Am more familiar with the 320i and is and later 236is/346is products that were still shipping when we bought ADST, and the new 3-series cs and 2-series ix components we launched this year.
My assessment of biamping the components is about the same as yours - I like it a lot better and "flat out get at it" is as good a description as I can offer. I think you'd like the new tweeter, it has a lot better top end than the one from last year's models - probably closer to the neodymium soft dome in your AL system - but is far from screechy. I'm running mine crossed over at 2.82kHz with a PCX-280 for power - rated at 80x2 but probably more in the 100x2 range - and they just love it. I find the passive version slightly bright unless you have the tweeter attenuation maxed out, but in biamp form they really shine. The mids also are a big improvement over the previous version, much more poised and linear and able to handle more power at lower frequencies. I'm driving the 6.5" 346cs woofers with half of a PCX-4125 with the XES digital crossover set as low as it goes (78 Hz) and have found them unflappable and easy on the ears. Only complaint I have is the upper mid could project a little better, but that's partly due to the stock location and grill design of the IS300. A kick panel or door buildout would improve that but I'm not crazy about modifying the car further just to get the vocals to localize a little more strongly over the center dash.
I'm with you on the Morel's although I always preferred the "original" Dynaudio designs better myself - give me a pair of D-28AF's and W- or M-175's and I can build you a bullet-proof front stage in just about anything. Those big 28mm dome tweeters have a presence that's hard to beat.
JD
>John, > [quoted text clipped - 92 lines] > >
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