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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / February 2006

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stereo will not turn on

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david.stephens@earthlink.net - 28 Jan 2006 19:22 GMT
i have a 2000 ford focus with a kenwood stereo. i have 12v power at the
factory connector for both the switched and constant pins. I can take
the kenwood or a jvc that i have and connect it directly to the battery
and they power up but will not at the connector. where can the problem
be?
thosewhohatedmecreatedme@gmail.com - 28 Jan 2006 19:45 GMT
some decks ground from the braket that you screw it on to. try putting
in where it should be. also check for shorts in speakers that will
cause the deck to not turn on to keep it from getting f.cked up :D
Paul Stamler - 28 Jan 2006 19:53 GMT
> i have a 2000 ford focus with a kenwood stereo. i have 12v power at the
> factory connector for both the switched and constant pins. I can take
> the kenwood or a jvc that i have and connect it directly to the battery
> and they power up but will not at the connector. where can the problem
> be?

Something else in the factory connector is bad, like the ground.

Peace,
Paul
MOSFET - 29 Jan 2006 01:35 GMT
> Something else in the factory connector is bad, like the ground.

Yes, exactly.  If you can get your hands on a voltmeter I would test both
the ignition and constant power connections.

MOSFET
david.stephens@earthlink.net - 30 Jan 2006 02:01 GMT
I had already checked the 12v constant, switched and ground at the
connector.
Brandonb - 30 Jan 2006 02:09 GMT
Just gotta ask... key turned on?

Brandonb

> I had already checked the 12v constant, switched and ground at the
> connector.
MOSFET - 30 Jan 2006 03:42 GMT
Well, if all your connections are good and it comes on at some places and
not others then there must be witchcraft involved....

Seriously, clearly some of these connections are NOT good.  I would try
focusing on the ground to start.  Someone may have a better suggestion, but
I would try using a different ground source when you hook it up at the dash.
Use the negative ciggarette lighter lead for instance, or even just a clean,
bare piece of the car's frame.  It's possible that although on a multimeter
your ground lead gives a good reading, it may not be capable of carrying any
current.  Again, if everything you have said is true, then there MUST be a
problem with one of the dash connections.

Also, have you taken a voltmeter reading when the deck is hooked up at the
dash?  This might tell you much.

MOSFET
david.stephens@earthlink.net - 01 Feb 2006 04:37 GMT
yes i stripped the wires to see if the power was comming through, and
it is. no the voltage does not drop. should i check amperage?
MOSFET - 01 Feb 2006 04:55 GMT
If the voltage does not drop, then you are getting enough amperage.  That is
REALLY a mystery.  Did you try another ground source?  That would be my next
step.

I guess if push came to shove, you could always just run power and ground
cables to your battery (and hope that the ignition DOES work).  In fact,
that gives me an idea.  I would hook it up to your battery (so it works) ,
and then try replacing each of the three voltage cables (power, ground,
ignition) with your dash sources (you will obviously need long runs of wire
to do this).  You should be able to pinpoint which one is the problem.

MOSFET

MOSFET
> yes i stripped the wires to see if the power was comming through, and
> it is. no the voltage does not drop. should i check amperage?
Bruce Chang - 30 Jan 2006 08:53 GMT
>i have a 2000 ford focus with a kenwood stereo. i have 12v power at the
> factory connector for both the switched and constant pins. I can take
> the kenwood or a jvc that i have and connect it directly to the battery
> and they power up but will not at the connector. where can the problem
> be?

You may have 12V but you may not have enough current to get the deck going.
Hook up the deck and make sure you're still getting 12V when you try to turn
it on.  If the voltage is dropping, the deck won't want to power up and you
either have a bad wire or connection somewhere inbetween the battery and
your factory connector.  Could be a partially blown fuse.
Pooh Bear - 30 Jan 2006 09:04 GMT
> Could be a partially blown fuse.

Some comments on Useenet are truly precious !

Graham
Lorin David Schultz - 30 Jan 2006 10:43 GMT
>> Could be a partially blown fuse.
>
> Some comments on Useenet are truly precious !

Now come on Graham, it may have been damaged by a partially discharged
bullet fired from a gun owned by a partial virgin.

Signature

"It CAN'T be too loud... some of the red lights aren't even on yet!"
- Lorin David Schultz
  in the control room
  making even bad news sound good

(Remove spamblock to reply)

Getting Older and Grumpier Gear Minion - 30 Jan 2006 12:00 GMT
> >> Could be a partially blown fuse.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> (Remove spamblock to reply)

If pin the outs on the connector are matched, and the unit is grounded,
appears to be currentus interuptus.
If it has an in line fuse, make sure it is making contact and not
poorly
seated in the fuse holder.
Steve Urbach - 30 Jan 2006 15:48 GMT
>> Could be a partially blown fuse.
>
>Some comments on Useenet are truly precious !
>
>Graham

Or the WRONG  TYPE (voltage) fuse. Using a 250V fuse in a low voltage
circuit introduces more resistance tha its low voltage counter part.
The fuse is good - - it is just dropping more voltage than tolerated.
(Had it happen to me in a HP 2100 mini computer. Drove me up the wall
until I found the fuse someone else had replaced).

BTW avoid using automotive (12V) fuses in line voltage circuits. They
may fail to INTERRUPT (sustained internal arc)  properly under certain
fast blow conditions.
 
Bruce Chang - 30 Jan 2006 15:51 GMT
>> Could be a partially blown fuse.
>
> Some comments on Useenet are truly precious !
>
> Graham

Perhaps you've never seen it but that doesn't mean it can't happen.  Yes,
it's a fuse and that's what it's made to do but it doesn't mean it's
fool-proof.
 
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