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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / August 2006Can't get subs to work.
This was my first install but i had a few of my friends hold my hand the whole way through it. I already had a headunit installed in my 01' hundi accent so i though it would be easy work i was very wrong. I bought 2- 10" kicker subs in an enclosure from a friend and he tested them for me and they work. I also bought a new Legacy LA290 400 Watt High Performance 4 Channel Amplifier offline and i bought a wireing kit aswell. I wired everything up correctly and it doesnt work. no sound or power to my amp. and all of my fuses are working i checked them i even hooked the wire directly to the positive terminal no luck though. all of my wireing is good and i still get no power to the amp what is wrong? i also have a jbl amp that is a higher wattage then the other one but also wont power up but it works in my friends car i soo anger by the whole ordeal i spent three days on this for nothing Where are you grounding your Amplifier? should be on a good solid, clean, point of the car chassis make sure that you've scraped the paint away down to clean metal, or if your mounting the amplifier on the back seats, then a seat bolt should be a good grounding point. also, did you remember to run a remote turn on lead from the headunits remote wire back to the turn-on lug at the amp? i did both of those if you're using a subwoofer preout on the deck, it may just be turne off on a setting. but if there is no power at all to the amp (n lights come on), check the voltage of the power and remote wires at th amp with a DMM, make sure they both read 12 -- KU40 Whats a DMM? what's a DMM? > what's a DMM? Digital Multimeter. Available cheap at just about any electronics supplier (Radio Shack, etc.) and most auto-parts stores. > > what's a DMM? > > Digital Multimeter. > > Available cheap at just about any electronics supplier (Radio Shack, etc.) and > most auto-parts stores. >I wired everything up correctly and it doesnt work. no sound or > power to my amp. and all of my fuses are working i checked them i even > hooked the wire directly to the positive terminal no luck though. Something else to check... I had a similar problem with my install a few weeks ago. It turned out that the fuse in my inline fuse holder by the battery. It wasn't blown, but it somehow wasn't making contact. I'm still not sure why. I replaced the fuse and it fixed the problem. Attach the amp to your battery directly, like in the engine compartment, and make sure it powers up. Then follow the wires all the way back to the trunk. Any intermediate connection is suspect. The digital multimeter like someone else suggested is a good idea. I used it to diagnose my problem. In the trunk, if you short the remote turn on lead to the positive power wire coming from the battery. If the amp turns on, you know it's the remote turn on lead that's a problem. If the amp doesn't turn on, you know it's the power or ground wire. When you get a multimeter, here somethings to do: You should be able to see the +12 volts appear and disappear on the remote turn on lead when you turn the head unit on and off. Measure the voltage across the power and ground wires in the trunk. That should be around 12 volts. If it's not, there's a weak connection somewhere. Measure the voltage at various locations excluding pieces of the system. For example, if when you measure across the power and gorund wire, it's 0 volts, or something a lot lower than 12, run a separate ground wire outside the car back to the battery, then measure the voltage across the power wire and this new ground. If the voltage is good now, you know it's the ground wire in your trunk. If it's still bad, you know it's the power wire. brian |
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