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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / October 2006New Stereos in Old Cars...Compatability?
I have a '63 Riviera that I'm contemplating adding a new cd/mp3 player to. (Putting in the glovebox...keeping the original radio where it is, but by-passing it.) Are there any old car experts in here who can help me with the compatablity of new players in old cars? Gracias, in advance... ZW >I have a '63 Riviera that I'm contemplating adding a new cd/mp3 player to. >(Putting in the glovebox...keeping the original radio where it is, but [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > ZW One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So it's best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. >>I have a '63 Riviera that I'm contemplating adding a new cd/mp3 player to. >>(Putting in the glovebox...keeping the original radio where it is, but [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So it's best > to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. Ya, that's a good point: many old "systems" (to use the term loosely) used a single wire to the speaker, and the car body as the ground. This will blow up any new "high-output" decks. > One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So it's best > to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. Something else is if it uses something other than the now standard 12v system. I've heard of some that were 6v systems, but those might be the REALLY old cars. Not too up on that. If the OP rewires everything themselves, using new wires instead of the old wiring (and I know I wouldn't trust wiring that old!), and using a 12v battery and electrical system which it most likely already is, then there really shouldn't be a problem other than mounting location as its probably a metal dash made for a shaft style, if even that lucky, could be something else entirely. Brandonb >> One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So >> it's best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > problem other than mounting location as its probably a metal dash made > for a shaft style, if even that lucky, could be something else entirely. Good point too, I've seen maybe one or two cars that were 6V systems; I think they were really old British cars. I've also seen some that were 24V (specifically, diesel machine, I think either old Land Rovers or Range Rovers)... 6V probably wouldn't kill your gear if you hooked up to it, but 24V sure would. >>> One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So it's >>> best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Rovers)... 6V probably wouldn't kill your gear if you hooked up to it, but > 24V sure would. Old VW's used a 6 volt system. Many of the old british cars used a 12 positive ground. So you had to isolate the antenna ground lead and the insulate any metal the the radio chassis might touch. > >>> One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So it's > >>> best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > antenna ground lead and the insulate any metal the the radio chassis might > touch. I also had fun with an older VW bug that was 12v pos ground. Found out when we tried to jump start it of course.  SignatureI. Care Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-} >>>>>One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So it's >>>>>best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > I also had fun with an older VW bug that was 12v pos ground. Found out > when we tried to jump start it of course. Oooh, ouch! > I also had fun with an older VW bug that was 12v pos ground. Found out > when we tried to jump start it of course. there was never a 12v positive ground Volkswagen Beetle. >>>>One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So it's >>>>best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > antenna ground lead and the insulate any metal the the radio chassis might > touch. Ah yes, I stand corrected (see Nick, it happens!) - it WAS an old vee-dub I saw the 6V setup in. I think we actually used some sort of DC step-up device in that, if memory serves. It was kind of unusual at the time, as those kinds of switching power supplies were mostly relegated to high-power amps. The positive-ground systems are by far the biggest bitch - stepping voltage up or down is a piece of cake compared to having to physically isolate everything including the antenna from the deck :) >>>>> One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So >>>>> it's best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > voltage up or down is a piece of cake compared to having to physically > isolate everything including the antenna from the deck :) Yes, the old VW's had 6V systems, but the prescribed way to handle it was to remove the 6V _generator_, and replace it with a 12V _alternator_ (but you also had to change all of the bulbs and such). Good times... >>>>>> One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. So >>>>>> it's best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > was to remove the 6V _generator_, and replace it with a 12V _alternator_ > (but you also had to change all of the bulbs and such). Good times... Yeah, well, when the owner just wants an $80 deck installed, the cost of a 12V upgrade doesn't generally go over too well... $50 or so for a voltage inverter is generally preferable. >>>>>>> One thing to look out for in old vehicles is grounded speakers. >>>>>>> So it's best to run your own pair of speaker leads to each speaker. [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > a 12V upgrade doesn't generally go over too well... $50 or so for a > voltage inverter is generally preferable. Yea, just reminiscing... Truly, the main purpouse of the 12V conversion was to be able to run electronic ignition systems on souped up motors... It had nothing to do with music :) so yea, use an inverter if you wanna keep everything else vintage... KeithS Many older vehicles used a 6 volt, or 8 volt, set up...There were/are plenty of american cars as well...Not just foreign, british...Even chevy cars from the 40's and older...Lead sleds... Also, some old old fords used a opp positive ground configuration... Not to mention a fair amount of old farm equipment, tractors etc... Back to the original starting question, if you are adding a setup to that '63 you won't have to worry about too much of this (voltage & what not). I say run new wires, and do not use the original speakers...IF they are functional, and work decent, they still may not function to great with a new hu as many had a much higher impedance than what most speakers are now. You'll have to check it out for yourself there. Plus, I am guessing that car has an odd factory speaker setup (as to # and position), as my 63imp does. So, run new wires, to the speakers and hu, the only thing you may have trouble finding is the (ign) turn on relay. SignatureJohn > Many older vehicles used a 6 volt, or 8 volt, set up...There were/are > plenty of american cars as well...Not just foreign, british...Even > chevy cars from the 40's and older...Lead sleds... Also, some old old > fords used a opp positive ground configuration... Not to mention a fair > amount of old farm equipment, tractors etc... Yeah, but there's nowhere to mount a sub box on a tractor! Matt Ion Wrote: > > Many older vehicles used a 6 volt, or 8 volt, set up...There were/ar > > plenty of american cars as well...Not just foreign, british...Eve [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Yeah, but there's nowhere to mount a sub box on a tractor The hell if there isn't..... -- John > Matt Ion Wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > The hell if there isn't...... *bump* So how's that boom-tractor project coming? :) I plowed through it with ease, kind of like I did with your mother.. -- John A old Ford Falcon I worked on had a 12v positive system. We took it t a local alternator shop and had them switch it to a 12v negativ system. Didn't have to change any parts. Made it MUCH eaiser to wor on than trying to isolate everything from metal and didn't cost tha much at all (under $50) -- jowens500 |
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