> > Good day Sirs & Madams,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
> If your going to do more than add a subwoofer, then it would be best to to
> change everything IMO
That's not what I wanted to hear!!! Not at all!!! :- >
I'd really like to stick with the stock radio and changer but probably would
swap out everything else. Does the Bose radio not have RCA outs or line
level outs that could be used or is that not even a good idea? I've looked
at a few aftermarket radios and it's been years since I've seen something
reasonably priced that looked decent (older Alpines, Denons, Nak's all
looked good to me, nowdays everything has too many flashing lights and
do-dads for my taste. Also of note is the budget, replacing the radio and
changer with something I like will probably eat up half my budget!)
Thanks for the info!
Michael
> It is hard to interface Bose equipment with aftermarket equipment.
> If your going to do more than add a subwoofer, then it would be best to to
> change everything IMO
Well said. I tried to do EXACTLY what you want to do (keep the Bose HU but
change EVERYTHING else including adding amps). The subwoofer was easy. I
tapped one of the rear speakers for a line-in feed into my sub-amp and the
amp had a remote gain control that I mounted in the dash that gave me
control of the sub volume. It sounded great.
Everything else, however, was hopeless. I COULD NOT get a buzz/whine out of
the system when using outboard amps and speakers. I tried a BUNCH of
different interface adaptors that promised to solve the problem but NO DICE.
The reason the subwoofer system worked was because the whine/buzz was above
the cut-off frequency of my low-pass filter on the amplifier, so obviously I
never heard it. That's why a subwoofer system can generally be integrated
into a Bose system without any problems.
Anyway, after MUCH frustration I eventually just replaced the HU as well (I
REALLY wanted to keep it in as it matched the style of the dash). I believe
the problem lies in the very unusual impedances that Bose uses in their
systems. It makes integrating standard after-market gear just about
impossible.
But having said all that, I will try to answer some of your
questions/concerns. DEFINITELY spend the largest percentage of your stereo
budget on speakers. Although some here disagree, I believe ALL amplifiers
sound the same (especially when you throw in engine noise, road noise,
etc.). In the home, where all extraneous noise can be eliminated, there can
be subtle sonic differences between one amplifier and the next, but even
then you need EXCELLENT speakers, source and source material, interconnects,
speaker-wire, etc. But in the car, forget it.
However with speakers there are LARGE differences between brands and models.
The best advice is to listen to as many different speakers as possible with
YOUR MUSIC. Some speakers sound better with different types of music so
it's important to listen with your type of music before deciding.
Some of the better brands of speakers include JL, Dynaudio, Morel, Focal, MB
Quart, Infinity, Polk and Boston Acoustics.
As far as subwoofer brands, again JL makes some EXCELLENT subs. Their W7
series is VERY hard to beat for both SQ AND SPL. I happen to use a pair of
MTX MXS (identical to their 7500 series) and have been VERY happy with
those.
MOSFET
My Name - 24 Nov 2006 23:44 GMT
> I tried a BUNCH of
> different interface adaptors that promised to solve the problem but NO
> DICE.
I'm interested in this comment.
Please tell me the different brands you've tried.
I've often recommend these types of adaptors,
but don't often enough get to hear the end result.
Whose products dissappointed you?
MOSFET - 25 Nov 2006 04:17 GMT
> > I tried a BUNCH of
> > different interface adaptors that promised to solve the problem but NO
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I've often recommend these types of adaptors,
> but don't often enough get to hear the end result.
This was a LONG time ago, in 1996 to be precise, for a 1995 Nissan Maxima
with the "premium" Bose system so it's a bit difficult trying to remember.
But what I DO remember is taking my car to MULTIPLE car audio specialty
stores and having them try to fix the problrm. You see, back then I did not
do any of my own installation, I paid others to do it.
I started at Magnolia Hi-Fi in Beaverton (I was living in Portland). They
couldn't fix it. Then I went to Car Toys (the one on Oak street in downtown
Portland if you are familiar with the area), they couldn't get rid of the
buzz. And lastly I tried Car Tunes, a small retailer located on 3rd Street
in Chinatown in Portland (I don't know if they are still in business), and
THEY TOO could not fix it. I believe a PIE adaptor was tried among others,
and I remember at one point Car Toys simply tried using a Phoenix Gold
line-driver to solve the problem (they thought the line-level signal was too
low). I happen to remember this fix in particular because I HAD to buy the
line-driver BEFORE they would try it, but of course I just ended up
returning it. With some of the other attempted fixes, they simply installed
the product and it was assumed if it worked I would pay for it.
Anyway, that's about all I remember. It was a VERY frustrating time.
MOSFET