 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / December 2006Box air volume ?
Hello, I have been toying with the idea of building a new box for my truck> i have been looking at different specs and stuff and i was wondering what the advantage or disadvantages is to having more or less air volume inside the box? thank you for any replies TroyT. generally, higher volume will increase low end extension and sensitivity (less power to reach full excursion), but too large of a box may lose transient response because of the less control over the cone. lower box volume is basically the opposite. Most people go for something in-between.  SignatureKU40 > I have been toying with the idea of building a new box for my truck> i > have been looking at different specs and stuff and i was wondering what > the advantage or disadvantages is to having more or less air volume > inside the box? thank you for any replies KU40's advice is sound (no pun intended). But it's important that you follow the manufacturer's recommendations for enclosure volumes and types. -dan thank you both for the advice, i was looking up the specs for my sub and there are specs for 3 different types of sealed boxes and one of them is Low Qtc sealed enclosure, and i was wondering what exactly that is and how does it compare to normal boxes or a SPL box because those are the other types of boxs they give specs for. here is the link to the specs the box volume is towards the bottom: http://www.orioncaraudio.com/subwoofers/sub_p_series.asp thank you again TroyT. > thank you both for the advice, i was looking up the specs for my sub > and there are specs for 3 different types of sealed boxes and one of > them is Low Qtc sealed enclosure, and i was wondering what exactly that > is and how does it compare to normal boxes or a SPL box because those > are the other types of boxs they give specs for. > here is the link to the specs the box volume is towards the bottom:http://www.orioncaraudio.com/subwoofers/sub_p_series.asp Okay, this makes your question seem much more sane. :-) The problem with those "specs" is that they really don't tell you much. For example, what they consider "low" Qtc. Strictly speaking, a system with a Qtc of 0.707 is considered "critically damped" (google for it if you're curious). Anything below this magical value is considering "low Q" and anything over it is "high Q". A common newbie mistake is to look at any given spec outside of the context of the other specs related to it. In this situation, it would be a mistake to pick an alignment based upon Q values without also considering the F3 (the -3dB point)....that is, if they gave you the information you need to make such an informed decision. :-) If your Qtc is "too low" (according to your taste and usage), then your subwoofer will sound really lifeless and "dry" to you; conversely, if it is "too high", it'll seem boomy and resonant. Some people prefer one over the other, so mileage always varies. As a general rule of thumb for sealed boxesx, for the typical listener, a good starting place is a Qtc between 0.8 - 1.2 with a -3dB point somewhere in the general range of 35 - 45 Hz...and it can be tweaked from there. What most people are looking for is a fairly decent LF extension with a 1-2dB "bump" in response above your -3dB point--but how much of a bump is going to be tolerable depends (again) upon the Qtc and your preferences. Your best bet is to have someone experienced with this driver assist you in picking an enclosure size based upon your personal preferences and your other system components. See http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=149 for a little more on sealed boxen. I hope this helps. -dan What the manufacturer suggests, should only be a guidline or startin point. They are dead wrong sometimes. Going strictly with what the suggest is like only buying prefab boxes -- MaGurk On Dec 27, 1:15 pm, MaGurk <MaGurk.2jh...@no-mx.forum.carstereos.org> wrote: > What the manufacturer suggests, should only be a guidline or starting > point. They are dead wrong sometimes. > Going strictly with what they suggest is like only buying prefab boxes. This seems like a bit of an overstatement and in general is not true. Nobody knows the product more than the people who make the product. It may be crappy product to begin with, but they'll still know more about their crap than anyone else does because they (presumably) spent some time researching, engineering and testing it. So, going with what they suggest (particularly if you get it direct from someone in Technical Support) is not necessarily a bad thing to do--it can actually be the *best* thing to do. But as with anything else in life, you have to consider the source. I don't think I'd have a problem following any *reputable* manufacturer's recommendations. And I have to take exception to your unqualified maligning of "prefab boxes". If you're talking about someone just slapping a box together and routing-out some big holes on it and saying "this box is for 10-inch subwoofers", then yes, I would agree with you that this is a mistake. However, in the context of your post (and of the thread), I can only assume you are talking about the boxes that the manufacturer makes specific for its own product, and in that case I cannot disagree more with you...again, assuming a reputable manufacturer. The one company with which I am most familiar is JL Audio, and I can personally attest (having once been on their payroll) that they do *not* slap things together and that even their "bottom of the line" pre-fabricated enclosures are very high quality and will yield great results for the vast number of "typical customers". These pre-made enclosures will likely not satisfy the "golden-eared tweak" nor the "bass monkey", but those customers are at two different extremes of the distrubution of customers. To sum it all up: not all manufacturers are stupid, nor are all "pre-fab" boxes bad. -dan I agree with D. Kreft, but I think I have one thing to add, and that i to understand the marketing of the company and how it relates to thei box suggestions. I've seen some companies (I think Kicker may hav been one at one time) that markets their subs as SPL machines, so the recommend ported boxes with high tunes (like 40+ hz). You just have t realize they are marketing towards basshead teens who like to impres their friends, who will in turn buy the same thing. Most don't full understand sound quality or want a flat frequency response across th spectrum At the same time, some manufacturers may recommend a higher tune tha you'd think, but it's for a reason. For example, RE recommends thei new XXXs to be put in a box tuned to 36 hz. To me this seems high a first glance, but they built that sub with massive xmax that more tha takes care of the lowend, even under tune. With a lower tune the lowen will just be overbearing There are other companies that go for the super flat response as low a possible, so they may recommend something around 26-28 hz for a tune. So when I think of making a box for a sub, I would start with th manufacturer's recommendation, maybe adjust up or down depending on th reputation or marketing style of the company, and also look at the spec to see if the sub is strong or weak in a certain area that th manufacturer may be compensating for with their suggestion -- KU40 You guys rock, I'm so glad I didn't get totally flamed for my view o the subject. I just would rather people knew more about enclosures an didn't consider the manufacturer's recommendations the only route t take. JL Audio does indeed know their stuff. Some brands though ar just dead wrong in what they suggest. I've never worked with Orion, s I am going to leave it at that. Thanks for the grown up response though... those seem to be few and far between on the forums anymore -- MaGurk Thank you all for your responce.I am kinda curious as to what you guys suggest.I have noticed that you guys dont like the "boomy" and do like the nice clean bass inorder to achieve good SQ,which is also what i am going for with my system. so i what you guys would do. thank you for your help TroyT. I just clicked that link you gave to the orion site. the 40 h recommendation for the 12 is what I was talking about. The 50 h recommendation for the 10" is just ridiculous If you're going sealed, I'd do 1 cubic foot -- KU40 |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.