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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / June 2007

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Need help with old auto audio amp

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Doug Sams - 26 Jun 2007 04:59 GMT
Hi,

I have an old auto audio amplifier from the early 80's.  It's a Hi-Comp
by Audiovox, model HCB-820.  I had it on the bench tonight but no joy
getting it to work.  There's one wire I cannot ID. Perhaps it's the
culprit.

On one end are the speaker outs (R+, R–, L+, L–), +12V and GND.  On the
other end are two RCA low-level inputs, left and right high-level input
wires, a black ground wire (which ohms to the jackets on the RCAs) and
two other wires.  These last two - pink and orange - are the question
marks.  The pink one is labeled "remote on-off".  With the unit powered,
I can hear the speakers pop when +12V is applied to the pink, but no
signal is getting thru.  Signal source is pre-outs from old receiver
connected to low level inputs.  I ran it all the way up to 300mV with no
audible speaker output.

The orange wire was left unconnected.  It has a female connector with a
plastic sheath as if it might be hot.  Inside the box, it connects to
the pink wire via an unidentified component.  This part is axial leaded
and looks like a white sphere about 1/8" in diameter, maybe a tad
smaller. It appears to be ceramic, and had a dark band on the sphere
next to one lead.  I've no idea what it is, but it's not a resistor or
capacitor or active component.  Any ideas what the component is?

What might the orange wire be?  And what should I connect it to?
Ordinarily, if this were a head unit, I might guess it's a connection
for dash lights or power antenna, but since it's a remote amp, I'm
stumped.  Any help you can offer will be sincerely appreciated.  And a
schematic or hookup diagram would be nirvana :)

TIA.

Doug
William Noble - 26 Jun 2007 05:26 GMT
how about tracing out part of the schematic?  maybe the remote power on is
active low, not active high?  a quick look at a schematic will tell all

> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
> Doug

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Matt Ion - 26 Jun 2007 06:53 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> stumped.  Any help you can offer will be sincerely appreciated.  And a
> schematic or hookup diagram would be nirvana :)

I used to have one of those amps... might even still be sitting in a box
somewhere, non-functioning (and no, I didn't actually pay money for it).

The orange, if memory serves, is a remote "output" that lets you "chain"
the remote signal.  Not really necessary in itself, as additional
remotes can just be split off the feed... it may include a time-delay,
for example, for delaying turn-off of a crossover or other device, to
eliminate pop.

When you power up the amp by connecting the pink, throw your meter on
the orange and see if it reads +12V.  If so, see if it maybe takes a
couple seconds to lose power again after removing power to the pink.
Matt Ion - 26 Jun 2007 07:34 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> stumped.  Any help you can offer will be sincerely appreciated.  And a
> schematic or hookup diagram would be nirvana :)

I used to have one of those amps... might even still be sitting in a box
somewhere, non-functioning (and no, I didn't actually pay money for it).

The orange, if memory serves, is a remote "output" that lets you "chain"
the remote signal.  Not really necessary in itself, as additional
remotes can just be split off the feed... it may include a time-delay,
for example, for delaying turn-off of a crossover or other device, to
eliminate pop.

When you power up the amp by connecting the pink, throw your meter on
the orange and see if it reads +12V.  If so, see if it maybe takes a
couple seconds to lose power again after removing power to the pink.
nesesu - 26 Jun 2007 16:28 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> Doug

That component is a GE version of the 1N4000 series of power diode;
the band is the cathode end.

Neil S.
 
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