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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Car Audio / July 2007Darn Fuses
The other day my crossover blew it's 2amp fuse. First time in over a year of owning my system. I put a new fuse in, but it blew the next night. So I tried another fuse but now, even with the radio off, they are blowing the second I put them in the crossover. The crossover is powered 12v from some auxillary wires that run to my amp. My amp is cabled to the battery, and the crossover power comes from where those cables are ran to my amp. The only odd thing I noticed was that the inline fuse to my amp had a crack in it's glass, So I've removed it, but have yet not had a chance to get another fuse, but yes the amp had power.  SignatureNick http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-BrowseUser.cfm?user_id=NNOTE > The other day my crossover blew it's 2amp fuse. First time in over a year > of owning my system. I put a new fuse in, but it blew the next night. So [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > crack in it's glass, So I've removed it, but have yet not had a chance to > get another fuse, but yes the amp had power. Not sure if there's a question in there, but I'll put in my thoughts anyway. Assuming that nothing changed in the wiring (ie: there's no possibility that the batt and gnd are swapped) your fuse symptoms are pointing to an internal failure within the crossover. Most likely a shorting diode or transistor in the power supply. The fact it came on slowly and then got worse quickly also points to damaged silicon. I suspect the cause of the failure could be that the crossover is being underpowered. I doubt the aux out of the amp is up to providing the current needed to power your crossover directly. This power starvation (loading down the aux line) Makes the switching power supply inside the crossover work harder. This could also damage the aux output in the amp. It's best to use it to switch a relay only. The crack in the glass portion of your fuse shouldn't be a problem. Low voltage DC fuses aren't generally vacuum sealed and will operate the same regardless of the presence of the glass. This is not always the case with AC fuses. Chris Thanks for the reply. It's not really an auxillary out at the amp, just that the cable running to power the amp was also split to the crossover. Another thing is that it's all in my trunk, and it's been 115 all week... In phoenix... I was thinking it could be heat related damage. Nick >> The other day my crossover blew it's 2amp fuse. First time in over a year >> of owning my system. I put a new fuse in, but it blew the next night. So [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Chris SignatureNick http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-BrowseUser.cfm?user_id=NNOTE The temp shouldn't cause it to blow fuses. Consumer rated silicon is good from -20c to +70c (158F) and most electronics intended for use in a car are industrial temp rated, -40c to +85c (185F) or automotive rated, -40c to +125c (257F). I grew up in Chandler, and remember the heat. It was bad, but shouldn't cause a failure like this all by itself. I make industrial controllers for heavy equipment, and they have to handle similar conditions when the control box is in direct sunlight. I've never seen a failure from ambient temperature alone. Have you tried unplugging all the outputs on the crossover, so the only connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with no load connected, it's time for the repair shop... Chris > Thanks for the reply. > It's not really an auxillary out at the amp, just that the cable running [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >> >> Chris That's a good idea, I'd like to find any reason to not have to spend the $$$ (145) to replace it. Thanks! Nick > The temp shouldn't cause it to blow fuses. Consumer rated silicon is good > from -20c to +70c (158F) and most electronics intended for use in a car are [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with no load > connected, it's time for the repair shop... Yup, disconnected all and it's still blows the fuse. I guess it's cooked :( . Time to hit ebay... Nick > That's a good idea, I'd like to find any reason to not have to spend the > $$$ (145) to replace it. Thanks! [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >> only connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with >> no load connected, it's time for the repair shop... SignatureNick http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-BrowseUser.cfm?user_id=NNOTE Well, picked up a new crossover. Different brand but since everything was already wired, the swap was easy, only concern is that the remote bass control would be compatible, and it is. Only it works in reverse! Not quite happy with the sound of the bass output, but just gonna have to spend some time tunning it i guess. Nick > Yup, disconnected all and it's still blows the fuse. I guess it's cooked > :( . Time to hit ebay... [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >>> only connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with >>> no load connected, it's time for the repair shop... SignatureNick http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-BrowseUser.cfm?user_id=NNOTE Well, that was easy! Chris > Well, picked up a new crossover. Different brand but since everything was > already wired, the swap was easy, only concern is that the remote bass [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >>>> connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with no load >>>> connected, it's time for the repair shop... |
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