>> > I was out driving in Kansas this winter and the spray nozzels for the
>> > windshield washer fluid actually froze up. This prevented me from
...
>> > Is there anything to do about this problem?
There are "low temperature" washer fluids available. I'm not
sure just how low they go before freezing. Here we don't worry
about it too much, because once it gets below freezing about the
first of October it doesn't get warm enough to be a problem
again until May. Road spray only happens very close to freezing
or warmer, and right now it is -20F.
>> > In the morning during a cold start up the power steering fluid is still
>> > half frozen or something and the steering wheels is stiff. This
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>>
>> No, but just take it easy until everything is up to operating temperature.
That is a serious problem with some vehicles, though I don't
think it generally is until the temperature is significantly low
(-30F at least). On some vehicles, before the steering fluid
has a chance to warm up, the first few turns generates enough
pressure to burst seals or hose fittings. One solution is
indeed to warm up the vehicle for 15 or 20 minutes before moving
it, and that is a good idea for many reasons. But people who
are on-call for emergencies (volunteer EMT's and firemen for
example) can't do that. I know one guy that put a 25 watt heat
pad on his power steering pump because he got tired of buying
two or three hoses every year.
>> > Oh and about the radiator freezing up. If the coolant gets frozen what
...
Use the proper antifreeze and that won't happen.
>Why can't people drive around in -40 weather? Don't Alaskans,
>Canadians, Swedens, and Scandanavians do this all the time? I believe
>the one's up north use engine blocks and people are able to plug their
>cars in when parked at the grocery store parking lot.
Nah. Not at the grocery store. But at home and at work, for
sure. I don't recall ever seeing any place with plugins for
customers though. But even at -65F you can easily start a car
after it has been sitting for 2 or 3 hours. (Wait 4-5, and you
might need to call a cab.)
>I'm no expert in this area but I'm sure there are a host of things that
>can go wrong with a car at such severe temperatures. I've heard of
>rear differentials freezing up. Gear oil gets too thick. Maybe
>something happens to the wheel bearings.
Drive a car from the Lower-48 to Fairbanks in January, and the
first cold spell you see will put the car out of commission.
The gear lube and the axle grease normally used in warm places
will be solid as a rock at about -45F or so. And regular engine
oil (not synthetic) will look like Jello at only -10 or -20F.
> Gas lines can freeze. The
Not really... but any water in the gas will. And actually any
moisture in the tank, even if it is in the air, will crystallize
and plug up the gas line. Some cars have more trouble than
others, but almost everyone carries a jug of gas line deicer
(methanol) around.
>army corps of engineers who built the Alaskan Highway for example ran
>into all sorts of problems.
Back then they did not have cold weather synthetic oil, for
example. Instead, if a vehicle was going to be turned off in
the cold, they would drain the oil and take oil and battery
inside. When the vehicle was to be started, they'd put a heater
on the engine compartment for an hour or two, and then pour in
warm oil and install the warm battery to start it.
Today we use synthetic oil, we have block heaters on the engine,
heat pads on the battery, the transmission, and on the oil pan;
and we have a heater inside to keep the interior up to at least
a temperature where the seat isn't a block of ice and hard as a
rock.
Not everyone does all of that though. And what with the warmer
winters we've been having I have only a block heater and an
interior heater. But I always have the option of either not
going anywhere in the first place, or of letting the vehicle run
for 15 minutes first.

Signature
Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd@apaflo.com